Subject: Re: How to get the crank hub back on. by Travis93 on 2008/3/8 0:07:40
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Josh wrote: Don't hit it with a sledge hammer, you'll push the crank into the thrust bearing and ruin the motor.
I was afraid of that too, was just out of ideas thats why I am here.
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500 Ft. Lbs. should pull the threads out of the crank and ruin the crank, so unless you have a special crank with some kind of super strong threads in the snout, I have a hard time believing you put 500 Ft. Lbs. on it.
How are you trying to install it? Do you have the factory bolt in there?
The impact gun I used clamed to be 500 Ft Lbs if it is or not I would not know. After the bolt stopped turning and it started just slowly turning the motor over I stopped For fear of screwing up the threads and took the bolt out just to make sure its still in good shape. It is the factory bolt.
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Here's what I do when I get one that doesn't want to go on:
I bought a piece of 7/16 fine thread all thread from Lowes. It comes in 3 foot sticks. I cut off a piece about 7 inches long and then thread that through the hub into the crank until it bottoms out.
At AutoZone, they sell a small block chevy balancer bolt kit. It's in the high performance aisle, next to the chrome valve covers and stuff. In the kit is a balancer bolt, a lock washer, and a big flat washer. I use the big washer from that kit for the next step.
Slide the washer over the all thread until it smacks up against the hub. Run a 7/16 fine thread nut down the all thread until it hits the washer. Tighten the nut with the car in gear and the parking brake on, or use a flywheel holder if the car is an automatic. This allows you to put a tremendous amount of force on the hub to press it on without beating the crank into the thrust bearing. It is also quite a bit easier on the crank threads, I've stripped them out before doing what you are doing and that will really ruin your day.
Sure sounds like this is worth a shot. It may not be quite enough force but sure sounds like its worth a shot and even if its just a little more than I am putting to it now it just might be enough to finish the job.
Maybe something more like this though so I can hold the bolt threaded into the crank while turning the nut? Scroll down tell you see tool J 41665.
Another thing, the factory bolt has a thick washer on it, about 1/4 of an inch thick. If you forgot/lost that washer, the factory bolt will bottom out with 1/4 inch or so left. That might be what is going on with you.
Washer is still there.
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If none of that works, you can try removing the hub and letting it sit in boiling water for 5-10 minutes. Pull it out with a tool of some kind and handle it with welding gloves or some other kind of thick glove. With it that hot it'll grow a little bit and might slip right on.
I thought of something similar. It has been subzero around here and I thought about sticking the torpedo heater up under the front of the car to warm it up to near room temperature and see if that helps. I thing your idea is better though it would leave the crank shrunk up a little swell the hub a little, sure would be sweet if it just slipped on.
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If you still can't make it work, I've fought with what seems like hundreds of them and could probably get it on for you. Just catch the plane tickets and lunch.
Might come to that.
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One more thing, since you are this far in, you might consider going to a keyed hub set up. I spun the hub on the crank with an LT1 that was making about 430 RWHP. I don't know your set up, but if you ever think you'll make more than 400 RWHP I would go to the keyed set up.
Good luck!
I did not know there were keyed hubs available. I will be very close to 400 RWHP. Where would a good place to get one of these be? Would it fit on without so much trouble?
Thank you very much for the post, you gave me lots to think about.
