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Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  4L60E
Automatic Transmission - 4 Speed

1st Gear: 3.06
2nd Gear: 1.62
3rd Gear: 1.00
4th Gear: 0.70

Reverse: 2.29

- Used in production GM models...
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Re: Rear end gurus, step inside please.

Subject: Re: Rear end gurus, step inside please.
by Josh on 2009/8/10 13:42:34

Quote:

dan0617 wrote:

1. I know the 1/2 shafts are suspect, and probably the most commonly broken part, so I'm going to get an extra one and take to the track with me when I go. Was considering going to steel 1/2 shafts but I'm afraid that will just make the centersection snap instead of the 1/2 shaft and I'd much rather replace a shaft. What do you guys think? Stay with aluminum and let it be the "fuse" or go steel?


I wouldn't worry about the half shafts. I've only ever broken one, and I've broken multiples of everything else.

Quote:
2. I hear about broken spindles. I know nothing about spindles. This is where I need the advice the most. Is it the spindle knuckle or the spindle itself (isn't the spindle itself the part with the spline on one end and the hub and wheel studs on the other?) that breaks?


The spindle (or outer stub axle) was the most common failure on my car. I broke half a dozen of them or so.

It's the part that bolts to the wheel side of the half shaft. They break right at the base of the splines. When they do break, they take out the wheel bearing and ABS sensor. It's theoretically possible that it could take out the knuckle as well, but it never happened to me.

Quote:
I was assuming it was the spindle knuckle but the more I look at things I'm guessing it is the spindle itself that snaps. Anyone ever heard of a broken spindle knuckle or is it the spindle that breaks?


I've never heard of the knuckle being called a spindle knuckle, but terminology varies from place to place. For the sake of simplicity, we'll identify some terms:

Inner stub axle - The piece that bolts to the differental side of the half shaft. It goes into the differential and uses splines to connect it to the carrier.

Half shaft - Everyone is on the same page here.

Outer stub axle - The piece that has been somehow named spindle by the Internet. It bolts to the wheel side of the half shaft.

Knuckle - The large aluminum piece that the wheel bearing installs in. All of the rear suspension pieces attach here.

Carrier - The unit that bolts to the ring gear and turns the inner stub axles. This is most commonly some kind of posi-traction unit, but there are some spool options available.

Anyway, the outer stub axle is a pretty common failure. Like I said, I broke half a dozen of them.

Quote:
3. I hear of cryo treated spindles, are they much better than stock? Would it be worth it for me to have mine cryo'd? Would I get the whole aluminum knuckle done or just the spindle itself.


Cryo treating made no difference for me. I broke cryo'd parts at the same rate as the stock pieces. If you do decide to cryo parts, you wouldn't need to do the knuckle, just the spindle.

Quote:
4. As far as the centersection, I think I'm best to just replace the whole chunk if it breaks. Also don't think it is worth it to have the whole chunk cryo'd but I don't know much about cryo treating. Am I on the right track here or should it be cryo'd for strength too?


I had mine done, it made no difference. I broke cryo'd gears, cryo'd spindles, a cryo'd half shaft, etc... I wouldn't cryo much of anything any more, especially on a D36.

IMO, the first thing you break will be inside the diff. Either ring/pinion, spider gears, clutches, etc... Any of those would be my guess. At that point, it might take out the case, or might not. I broke a ring gear and my case survived, but I've seen others where the shrapnel takes out the case.

Regardless, most of the stuff back there takes a good bit of time to change, and a good number of tools. I don't know that it would be practical to buy spares with the intent of swapping them out at the track in the event of a failure.

With your auto, and a D44 swap, I think you'd be good with low 1.5's forever. You might crush U-joints from time to time, but the auto is pretty forgiving.

Jonescap is cutting mid 1.5's (with a best of 1.51) on his stock D44, and he is a nitrous 6 speed car. I really don't think the power you are making is an issue, especially behind the auto.

If I were you, I would start to save for a D44, and just enjoy the car for now. Wait for the first failure to happen, and then go from there. If it's the chunk, then pull the trigger on the D44 swap.

As far as a solid axle, IMO there aren't any options out there. The Azzato piece is just too questionable for me, and the Leo Barnaby (RIP) unit is outrageously expensive.

Good luck with it.
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