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This stands for Small Block Chevrolet. The engine debuted in 1955 and remained largely unchanged until 1986. The initials are still used today to d...
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RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc.

Subject: RE:'94 LT1 clutch, flywheel, etc.
by SJW on 2007/11/8 20:58:42

Quote:
I totally agree with bogus on the merits of staying with the dual mass flywheel, unless you have 400 plus ponies under the hood and you intend to use slicks at the drag strip. I changed my clutch, flywheel and release bearing out at 40 K due to an oil leak from the rear of the intake manifold. Oil got all over the clutch and it was slipping badly. When you do remove the clutch, you can check the dual mass flywheel for excessive rotational play, just checkout the Helms Service manual. I got a good deal on e-bay on a flywheel, clutch and release bearing from a crate engne that was going into an automatic. Paid around $450 for all of it.

Balance---very critical on LT1s from 92 and up as this is an externally balanced engine and the flywheel is used to quiet the vibrations in the LT engines. There is a series of holes around the outer edge of the dual mass flywheel that weights are driven into to achieve balance. You have to match these weight filled holes with your old dual mass. While you're in there, replace your rear main seal, yours is getting old. I went further and replaced the oil filter adapter gasket, rubber O-ring and since it was easy to get at, replaced the fuel filter. Yes. beam plates are a good thing. Now would be a great time to install a new short shifter like a Hurst. Don't forget to flush out the hydraulics in the clutch.

Oh, I forgot, if you want to know what a single mass flywheel sounds like at idle, just find a small box and put several large ball bearings in it and roll the box over and over. It's embarrassing when you pull up to a Mustang at a light.


Thanks much for the advice, Strick. The LT1 is stock, and I don't run slicks or drag radials. The clutch chatters, and that may or may not have anything to do with the DM. No way to know until it's torn down, of course.

Does a steel SM cause that much gear rattle? I know the aluminum wheels do, but there's no way I'd install one of those in my street driver anyway. I was hoping a steel SM would be livable in terms of how much gear rattle it would cause. I can deal with a bit of gear rattle, but if it's excessive it'll get on my nerves for sure.

Live well,

SJW
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