Become a Fan!
Login
Username:

Password:

Remember Me

Lost Password?

Register now!
Main Menu
Who's Online
186 user(s) are online (132 user(s) are browsing Forums)

more...
Guru Dictionary
Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  4L60
The automatic from 1992-1993. The same as the 700R4, just has a different name.

Either way, they are junk. There are some minor differences on a ...
Supporting Vendors
Platinum
Mid America Motorworks
Mid America Motorworks FREE CATALOG


Gold
FIC 770-888-1662


Registered Vendors
Guru Friends
Supporting Banners

TIRERACK.com - Revolutionizing Tire Buying


Shop for Winter Tires Now!




Support This Site
Report message:*
 

Re: My '91 on the dyno

Subject: Re: My '91 on the dyno
by dan0617 on 2010/6/25 17:09:27

Josh has given me excellent advice on launching over the years. He pointed me in the direction of positive camber in rear alignment, removing front sway bar, and snubber extensions on the rear. Those are my only traction mods other than tires. I doubt you need any of that yet, but once you up the converter stall you will.

Quote:

Josh wrote:
I would start with probably 30 PSI in the nittos, and a small burnout just to clean them off. I would come up on the converter and then roll into the throttle. My goal would be 3-5 tire revolutions, and to have the throttle WOT and the tires hooked by about 10 feet out. I would play with tire pressure and burnout to achieve that. This will not net the fastest 60 foot times, but it will be the easiest on the drive train.


This is a great starting and learning point but never yielded the results I was looking for.

Quote:


Next would be the Dan method... Hard on the converter, hot tire, low PSI, and look for the dead hook and a quick progression to WOT.


This yielded me very satisfying results. Try about 20 psi in the nittos, bet you will end up at around 18.

Quote:

Next, hard on the converter and just wood the throttle.


Only had the balls to try this once, and it didn't give me any better times. I thought for sure it did, but it didn't. Felt VERY hard on my shit and I didn't want to break anything 1.5 hours from home at the dragstrip. Josh is king of putting it to the wood and worrying about damage later. Wish I could do that. I just can't.

Quote:
Next, back off the converter some, maybe bring the RPM to 1500 or so then wood the car to let the converter flash. This is the hardest on the car, but if the tire will take it this method will produce the best times.


NEVER had the balls to try this, but I have a 2800 stall converter. Flashing a higher stall means something has to give. I now have a D44 so maybe I'll try this eventually. If you are running a stock or near stock converter this might work best for you.



Quote:
Edit - I just re-read my post and I come off like an expert preaching the 'right' way to do stuff. I'm not an expert, on top of that I have a 6 speed, and I have absolutely zero experience drag racing an automatic C4. The above is just how I think I would try to achieve what you are looking for, it may work well, work some, work a little, or not work at all.


My disclaimer: Ditto. Only I don't have a 6 speed. Can we get an "Expert Opinion" in here? lol.

Good luck at the track and keep us posted. I'm sure mid upper 12's will be yours.
CorvetteForum.guru is independently owned and operated. This site is not associated with or financially supported by General Motors.

Copyright 2008-2015 CorvetteForum.guru

CorvetteForum.guru is a Guru Garage Site (Coming Soon!)

If you have any questions about our site, please contact us at Andy@corvetteforum.guru.

Powered by XOOPS 2.56 Copyright 2001-2014 www.xoops.org

Hosted by GoDaddy.com.