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Automatic Transmission - 4 Speed

1st Gear: 2.74
2nd Gear: 1.57
3rd Gear: 1.00
4th Gear: 0.67

Reverse: 2.06

- Used in production GM model...
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Re: Started re=porting my plenum after 8 months LOL.

Subject: Re: Started re=porting my plenum after 8 months LOL.
by 89Vette on 2010/9/26 6:43:50

Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
If we are buying oversized runners and base why do we need to keep hogging them out?


You don't HAVE to do that much. But there is some work to be done -- if you want the openings to match up. And, getting the openings to line up (via porting) is something worthwhile to smooth/speed up air flow!!!

I think aftermarket bases come with stock size openings -- in case you use stock tubes or something slightly smaller than it's inner size. (Keep in mind there a several runner choices and they aren't all the same, exact size!)

Getting the base-to-runner holes equal to the runners isn't that hard, but it's timing consuming. After all, you have 8 holes to do. (16 if you don't have a perfect match to the heads on the other side.)

The plenum holes are also sized for stock tubes, so it's good to port them out equal to your aftermarket runners too.

I agree, a dremel is not enough. I burned mine up in a couple of hours. But I did accomplish the rest with a 2000rpm drill, carbide bit, and (sanding) flap wheels. Turns out a 60-grit flap wheel will cut pretty fast at 2k rpms. 120-grit smooths the result quit nicely.

If you use a cutting burr, make sure to use oil with it. Otherwise, the alum balls up and gets hot. Plus, the burr stops cutting very well.

In the midwest, flap wheels are about $5 ea and burrs are between $17-$30. One good tapered burr will cover it. The number of flap wheels needed depends on how much you do with the burr first.

Also, use some sort of face mask to avoid breathing alum dust.
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