The GM designation for the 5.7 liter, (350 cubic inch), TPI motor. This motor was used in other GM vehicles, but was used in the Corvette from 1985 t...
Subject: RE:Did a code check by BillH on 2008/1/8 3:52:04
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Where is this Valve Solenoid at if I need to change it?
You will never know if it is defective, unless you TEST it. Otherwise, all you are doing is throwing money and parts at the problem in hopes that the "shot gun" method will end up hitting something. A code identifies the circuit or sensor that sent a "bad" or out of parameter reading. It does not state the cause of that bad reading. After the code is identified, you must diagnose the cause of the code. Take an O2 for instance. If you get a code that reports a rich mixture, does that mean the O2 is bad? Or does it mean that because of some, yet to be discovered problem, that there really WAS a rich mixture. The same is true, especially, of codes pertaining to the EGR valve. Seldom, when there is an EGR code, is the EGR valve the cause. The [color=blue:906514afca]FSM[/color:906514afca] tells how to extract the codes, what circuit or device each code is related to, and most importantly, a trouble shooting chart to help you diagnose and track down the CAUSE of the problem, minimizing the expense of unneeded parts. The book isn't cheap, but depending on the job and the potential for false diagnoses, it can pay for itself in one job. Plus it has a lot of neat reading where you can learn a lot about how the systems in your car work.
RACE ON!!!
Well Said On thing I've over the years when purchasing a car/truck is add $100 to the money I'm planning to spend for the correct shop manual. And you get to keep them if you sell. I've got manuals and suppliments for 63,64,65, 6 & 7, 76 & 92 Vettes as well as a bunch of Chevy trucks. Manuals are like tools, once you've got a good one, you can't figure how you lived without it.