| Re: Dana 44 Trac Lock rebuild Tech Thread |
Subject: Re: Dana 44 Trac Lock rebuild Tech Thread by rklessdriver on 2012/8/29 21:52:22 Once the Trac Lok carrier and ring gear assembly is in place, re-install the Bearing Caps and TQ the bolts to 55ft lbs. Slide the Inner Stub Axles in place. This is where you set up the end play in them. I could never find a specification for the stub axle end play, but it’s well known with old style Corvette diffs to set it to as little as possible (without being bound up). This is so the stub axles don’t slam into to cross pin as the suspension compresses under acceleration. For racing I set them up at .0005 to .003 (yes that’s a half of a thousandth to three thousandths of an inch). Most good working stock units that I have taken apart to rebuild were in the .003-.005 range. Now if your stock axle retaining rings get you in the above ball park and your happy that’s fine but if you want to set it up for racing or just want it the best it can be…. You can buy a set of different thickness axle retaining rings from TOMS Differential for about $35. The easy way to set it up is to take the correct size feeler gauge and insert it between the axle and cross pin shaft. Then take the back edge of the axle retaining rings and try to slide them in the Axle’s groove until you find the one that just fits snug. Because of the previous damage - This diff took a .065 ring on the Drivers side and a .090 ring on the Passenger side to get the end play down to .0005 on both sides.  Once you have both sides figured out, install the correct retaining rings on to the axles. With the clips installed the axle should have a very slight amount of movement, and it should feel free. If the retaining rings are too thick they will apply pressure on the side gear, it will bind the axle up and that could put undue stress on the retaining ring.  At this point you are done… except for installing the batwing/cover and putting it back in the car. |
