| Re: suspension T and F AND Q's |
Subject: Re: suspension T and F AND Q's by CentralCoaster on 2012/11/14 8:42:03 I doubt Energy modified their moldings but who knows. I don't think it was necessarily the size was different from stock as it was the material. The stock rubber was more compliant and so that little extra thickness would just compress, whereas on the poly it would not and would bind. There are a few tips to the Banski kit that I learned the hard way. I hope Tom has incorporated these changes by now to save others the hassle. 1: Make sure there isn't any anodizing in the threads. If there is, remove it with a tap. Anodizing will chip off the threads and clog them up and can sieze or damage them. 2: Finish cutting the slots in the rods. They aren't cut enough in my opinion and so they don't flex as much as needed to allow the clamps to do their job. I used a dremel to cut the bottom of the slot even through the entire depth of the tube wall. It clamps better now and they don't rotate on their own. Before, the rod ends would rotate opposite direction until they could rotate no more, and this takes out the useable angle of the rod end. After any dremelling or tapping, of course remove any burrs. 3: Antisieze the crap out of the rod ends and clamp bolts. 4. Buy the boot kit. The nylon or teflon surface of the rod ends wears, and any dirt in there will wear it faster. The boots are tricky to install, they should be stretched around the OD of the cone washers and not get pinched when bolting it down. This allows them to rotate properly and not get twisted/torn. 5. Don't adjust the rods with the car on the ground. If at least one rear tire isn't up, then the rod end is trying to drag that tire as you change toe/camber etc. You'll probably gall the threads at worst, or at best get raw hands. Actually if you had those tire caddys it would work great. |
