biggrizzly, you do need to roll the threads in on new ARP bolts. On mine, I used lube and torqued the heads down by the bolt sequence. Then, I started with bolt 1, loosened and retorqued it 5 times, then took it out, installed permatex thread sealer (I heard of problems with leakage on ARP thread sealer, but it may be fine), lube under the bolt head and washer, then torqued the bolt down the final time. Then I went on to bolt number 2, and 3, and right through the sequence. I was surprised at, after the bolt is torqued down the first time, when you loosen it and torque it the second time, how much farther the wrench circles around to reach that torque.

I torqued mine down to 70, but I have an L98, not an LT1. I think it called for 60 with the ARP sealer so I went to 70 since I used permatex sealer. It felt like I could have went to 100 with the ARP bolts and cleaned threads in the block. (Intake on the L98 is another story, I couldn't get 1 single bolt to torque to the recommended 35lbs and had to heli-coil some holes and settled for 22 lbs, but that is another story) Also if you do it my way make sure you torque to final setting right after installing the permatex because if you wait it becomes harder to reach the torque setting as the sealer "sets up"