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A rather boring honk, but it should be loud and clear.

It should work with key on or off....
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RE:Headers and Fuel lines

Subject: RE:Headers and Fuel lines
by jsup on 2008/2/3 2:47:45

Here's my final solution.....

I kept the original fuel lines from the manifold down to where they make a 90 degree turn. I cut the solid line right at the point where it hit the rubber.

I used a compression fitting on the metal pipe and connected to the flex stainless tubing. The tubing I got is expensive as hell. It was $120 for two pieces about 4.5 feet each. It's hydraulic line (which will tolerate gas) it has a teflon core wrapped in rubber with braided stainless on the outside. I had a 3/8 female compression fitting put on each side.

I looped the flex tubing and came around the front of the frame where the control arms connect. There's a provision in the frame in front of the shock that the flex tube fit nicely in. I ran both flex tubings through this portion of frame.

I removed the rear wheel well exposing everything under the blower motor. I ran the flex tubing under the blower motor behind the piece of frame that is slanted. Then to the original connections.

On the fuel filter and the original connections I made up some solid tubing because the flex tubing could not bend hard enough. The hard tubing goes up at a 90* angle the flex tubing connects to that. Done.

The secret is to use some flex tubing and remove the rear wheel well.

If you want pics, let me know.
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