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Re: Help on CCM pull...

Subject: Re: Help on CCM pull...
by Matatk on 2016/1/7 2:08:41

Quote:

Schrade wrote:
Yes - no A/C codes. Not one. Only 3 dashes (with first dash 'broken').

Supposedly that E & C Bus failure. No Tech 1 scanner to override E & C Circuit.......

Whatcha' thinkin'?



Thought we'd start at square one.

Found some really good info from "Hooked on Vettes" on CF:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c ... -problem-pics-inside.html


"---" indicates a E & C bus failure between the Programmer and the Heater/AC Control Head.
(Not communicating).

The Programmer gets power from the CTSY and A/C fuse.

Since you have power at the Control Head, the A/C fuse must be good.

If your interior courtesy lights are working, the CTSY fuse must be good.

The Bose Radio Control Head is also on this bus so it could cause a problem on the E&C bus. (NOT LIKELY).

You could disconnect the cables from the back of the Radio Control Head to eliminate it.

Your pictures look like some of the connectors have corrosion on them. Clean all of the connectors with electrical contact cleaner and hook them back up and re-test.

If it still doesn't work the only thing you can do is verify the voltage on the E&C bus to see if it's shorted to B+ (12 Volts) or shorted to ground. (Zero volts).

If you have a scope, you can monitor this bus for any activity while you press different buttons.

On the ALDL Connector above the drivers right knee the connector looks like this.

FEDCBA
GHJKLM

With a Volt meter, measure between pin J (E&C bus) and pin A (Ground). Should measure around 9.2 volts DC. (Doesn't matter if ignition is on or off).

If it measures OK, the Programmer is probably bad.

If you had a Tech 1 you could attach it to the Diagnostic connector and simulate the Heater/AC control head to isolate the problem.

Followed by


With the Control Head plugged in, disconnect the electrical connectors from the Programmer and re-check A to J. If it now reads around 9.2 VDC, the Programmer is bad.

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