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Re: Need some electrical smarts.

Subject: Re: Need some electrical smarts.
by hcbph on 2016/4/6 0:26:56

Quote:

Matatk wrote:
19 amps would be a lot. I would pull the power cable and put the dvom between the battery and the cable with the doors closed and interior lights/timer off and check the draw that way. You should have something like .35 milliamps as a draw. Pull fuses until it drops.

Here's an example of a way to check using a test light, same idea:

https://youtu.be/9wLrTjeb9TY

I'll have to try that out, but may be the 2d on the list to do.

Quote:

BillH wrote:
If you read the discussions by guys with classic cars (C1's and C2's etc.) you'll find 25% of them never have problems with these cutoffs, the rest do.

I've seen a bunch of them thrown away by guys I know.

There are much better cut off switches, costs more and you'll have to fab up a short battery cable but the good ones will give you zero problems.

I don't think it's 19 volts, 13 volts 19 amps based on the meter readings if I'm reading the meter right.

I have to agree. This one is only rated at 100 amp and is a little clumky to operate, the one I plan to replace it with I bought last year is good to 250 amps and has a rotary handle to make or break the connection. I was looking into the cables I'd need to mount it once I'm ready to do it along with how I want to mount it.

Thing is, I've already tested with all the fuses pulled from the main panel (1 at a time), there's still current present if you check from the engine brackets, TPI etc to the battery negative post with the negative cable unhooked. Firewall still shows nothing if check from the firewall to the negative battery post with the negative cable unhooked.

Remember in all the testing I did, the negative battery was unhooked, I touched either the alternator bracket or the TPI runner with the red lead to the voltmeter and the negative to the negative post on the battery, positive cable hooked up with all electrical off. I was not touching any wiring, only the physical engine parts then the firewall.

Thinking through this, the short has to be under the hood before it ever gets to the fuse panel. I'm thinking my next step is to remove the wires from that electrical junction behind the battery one at a time and see if it drops. If it does, I then at least know which wire to target and trace.

Does that make sense to anyone other than me?

Appreciate all the ideas, keep them coming.

Paul

PS, here's the the switch I was putting back on for along with the one I plan to replace it with. The blue piece is a plastic tab I made to fit under the bolt when the battery is disconnected. You can snug the bolt down but it won't complete the circuit till it's removed.
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