| Re: vats |
Subject: Re: vats by hcbph on 2017/6/6 19:22:30 Quote:
Doesn't matter what it looks like, it's how it's acting. Unhook the battery (just to be safe) and take a Q-tip with some alcohol in the cylinder and clean the contacts where the resistor on the key makes contact. Now there is a way to test if you're getting a good contact or not. Again with the battery disconnected, drop the hush panel under the steering column. From near the bottom of the steering column before it goes through the firewall, there is a 2 strand wire with a connector on it (one is orange IIRC) that continues up behind the DIC. Unhook the connector so you can use the OHM meter to check continuity with the key in the ignition, 2 probes - 2 wires in the connector - see if you have a circuit and if the values match or not. With an OHM meter take a reading of the resistor on your key. Now put the key in the ignition (don't remember if had to turn the ignition on or not) and using the ohm meter probe the wires coming out of the column and see if you get the same resistance value (they should match). Play with the wheel, turn signals etc too and see if there's any change along the way (there shouldn't). If your readings are consistent then it's not likely the key or cylinder causing your problem. If you change the cylinder, column etc., that resistor value must remain the same. Unless you use the dongle like I did, any new key will need to have a resistor with the same value as your existing one does or the car won't start. Also if you have any new keys made, check them with an OHM meter, I've gotten one where they cut the wrong blank, turned the ignition fine but wouldn't start the vehicle. Hope that helps. |
