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Re: 6 Speed manual Trans S-640 Replacing a 4+3

Subject: Re: 6 Speed manual Trans S-640 Replacing a 4+3
by anesthes on 2008/6/18 18:30:12

Quote:

CentralCoaster wrote:
The longer ZR-1 pivot stud was NOT used. I used the regular pivot stud tightened down all the way. The fork comes close to the rear of the bellhousing with clutch out, you'll need to slide it onto the pivot stud, put the bellhousing in place, then tighten the stud into the bellhousing.



The ZR1 stud (you sent me) has worked well for me. The aftermarket flywheel I used is singlemass and roughly 3/8" thinner than the dual mass. The ZR1 stud is roughly 5/16" taller. Geometry ended up being the same as stock, and the clutch grabs about an inch off the floor.

More than one way to skin a cat for sure.

My aftermarket flywheel is very similar to the 4+3 part that you had trouble with:

http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/f-car-t5/flywheel.jpg

However, I'm using a ceramic clutch from fort wayne (similar
to the one pictured below) and I think the 'buttons' are spaced far enough inside that it doesn't overlap like the stock clutch did:

http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/zf6/fw-zf6-kevlar.JPG

When I was in Florida last week, I spoke to a guy with a '94
for a bit. He was using a fbody LT1 flywheel, with a sprung LT1 disc and ZF6 pressure plate. I was confused as I've read the LT1 flywheel needs to be machined as much as .080" to work. When you think about it, .080" is only about 5/64".

Stock fork to slave distance is 1.438"
4+3 flywheel and stock stud is 1.230"

So reducing flywheel by .375" reduces distance by .208

So I'd imagine a .080" increase would barely be noticable to the slave cyl (about .144" increase) So why are people cutting these flywheels??

Unless my math is wrong, you would think for a 1pc rear car the LT1 flywheel and sprung disc is plug and play.


The ZF6 flywheel is 1 7/16" thick

Whats the LT1 fbody flywheel?


-- Joe
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