| Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? |
Subject: Re: LT1 Cam Install Help Needed?? by rickreeves1 on 2009/3/19 15:29:04 I wanted to post how I reinstalled the hub just to keep track of everything I had done while it's still fresh in my head for future reference and for others to use... I used a tool I had made that consisted of a 7/16 hardened rod, various size washers, and 7/16 nuts. I got the idea from http://members.cox.net/gmarengo/Misc/Misc.htm . I left the rod longer though since I was installing the hub with the engine still in the car. This allowed me to first tighten the rod all the way down in the crank from in front the steering rack using two nuts tightened against each other at the end. The crank was prevented from spinning by a small c-clamp I had placed on the flexplate against the block. I heated the stock hub in the oven to 500 degrees for about 15 minutes. I slipped it on the crank with the arrow up using oven mits. I then put the rod with the nuts and washers in the crank. I tightened the rod all the way down in the crank using the end nuts. I then tightened the nut with the washers against the hub to push it on. When the hub stopped to move easy and appeared to be all the way in I removed the rod tool. I then put in my hub bolt and tightened it down to the required torque specs. I used my belt tensioner tool with a socket extension and socket to keep the balancer from spinning when installing it. I used the belt tensioner on the crank bolt to keep everything from spinning. The tensioner tool was in front of the steering rack and spun until it made contact with the frame. This held the hub in place and allowed me to tighten all the balancer bolts. I did have to remove it once to get the other bolts in a position where I could tighten them from in front of the steering rack. Parts for tool... 3' length of 7/16" SAE Fine threaded rod, B7 (high strength alloy steel) grade, from http://www.nutty.com , various size washers and 7/16 fine thread nuts. |
