| Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 4 |
Subject: Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 4 by PeteK on 2009/9/10 15:07:49 Moving forward, I rebuilt the valve body, and made the nescessary mods to the separator plate for some custom tweaking, and for the requirements of the B&M Shift Kit. Pic below is the reassembled valve body.  This is the view most are familiar with, when they drop the pan, and look up. The valve body is responsible for opening and closing valves to allow fluid pressure to activate a clutchpack or band. Small holes in valve body are fluid dumps. After a given valve does it's thing, it must blow off the pressure. The pic below shows the worm track on the top of the valve body. When a valve opens or closes, fluid travels the path, and then goes through the seperator plate that is between the valve body, and the main transmission case.  If you look closely, I have retained the required checkballs in their correct spot using vaseline. Shop manual and/or shift kit determines their location for a given model year. There are 3 styles of valve bodies for the 700r4/4L60: 82-87 (non aux valve body units) 87-92 (aux valve body units) 1993 - *specific to this year only It is critical to properly disassemble, and clean the valve body. When a trans wears and fails, the valvebody becomes filled with trash. The trash must be cleaned, as a fleck of dirt the size of pepper can block up a valve. I normally disassemble and lay everything out like the photo below:  I then block out the machined side of the valve body gently with a fine stone, to knock off the slight burrs only. The purpose is only to dress the surface, not change it. Then, I use a couple of cans of good carb cleaner to get it clean. I then use brake cleaner, followed by a soap and water bath., then completely air dry the casting. Next, each and every valve is inspected with a magnifying glass, and by feel for any minute burr. If I find one, I use a small piece of gray scrubby pad to knock the burr off. Then each and every valve, spring or sleeve is cleaned with carb cleaner, blown dry, and installed into the Valve Body one at a time, using only ATF as lube. Once completely assembled, I place the checkballs in as per the shop manual/shift kit manufacturer. If you look carefully at the pic below, you will see the 2 checkballs installed and retained with a blob of vaseline. If I were installing in a pre 87, the "bathtub" would receive a checkball as well. This is a 90, so no bathtub checkball. The pic below shows the shifter selector shaft. When you shift gears, this valve moves, and directs fluid through the center of it accordingly:  Pic below shows the plunger for the tv valve. This valve is the heart of the trans, so I always check it 2x or more.  The shifter plate below is modded as per the shift kit manufacturer, and the builder based on his oiling modification preference. This plate is installed between the valve body and the case, sep3rating each worm track, and providing orifices to control fluid pressures and volumes. Think of the worm tracks as Plenum's and the plate orifice as the throttle body, or venturi.  |
