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It should be soft and pliable. Tears, rips and holes are red flags that the seals are bad.

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Re: Disaster - Engine seized.

Subject: Re: Disaster - Engine seized.
by Durango_Boy on 2012/6/17 16:09:51

The idle is fast so yeah it is a lot of damage for an idle, but the engine idled in Park at close to 2K RPMs. Heck, even in gear my stop idle was 1K. That's part of why the car was at the shop. The carbs were being taken way down, lowering everything. I was showing the engine 880 CFM. I wanted that down a lot closer to 600 - 650.

I got the engine disassembled down to the short block this morning. Everything I found was in good shape. All plugs even read between light brown or dark brown...none wet. Only the #5 plug looked bad, kind of a flaky white / tan / brown texture. I'll look into that more later.

Cylinder walls looked good from the top. I still can't turn it though until I get some pistons out but from what I can see no wall damage. If my luck holds, the pistons will be in good shape and the rings will have done no damage.

So far it's still looking as though I'll squeak past this with a new crank, bearings, and rebuilt rods.

I knew this was going to happen but I am already making A mental list of the things I want to do "While I am at it".

I'm going to cut out the divider making my manifold a dual plane, at least so the mixture entering the manifold mixes before it separates to in effect it'll be a single plane manifold. Being a 400, and already favoring the low end, I'm not afraid of losing bottom end to achieve the better mixture. I think this will also help my cold start, and the glowing primaries during warmup when the start circuit is leaning out the mixture.

Once I get some of the pistons out, get it to turn, I can pull the block and get it to the machine shop ASAP for testing. I can't go anywhere with it until I know the block is safe to rebuild.

Then it's just a matter of buying a new 400 crank, rebuilding the rods, and putting everything back together with new gaskets and fluids.
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