Become a Fan!
Login
Username:

Password:

Remember Me

Lost Password?

Register now!
Main Menu
Who's Online
303 user(s) are online (250 user(s) are browsing Forums)

more...
Guru Dictionary
Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  New Hampshire Motor Speedway
This is the new name for New Hampshire International Speedway.

Also known as NHMS....
Supporting Vendors
Platinum
Mid America Motorworks
Mid America Motorworks FREE CATALOG


Gold
FIC 770-888-1662


Registered Vendors
Guru Friends
Supporting Banners

TIRERACK.com - Revolutionizing Tire Buying


Shop for Winter Tires Now!




Support This Site
Report message:*
 

Re: Anyone reviewed Tuff Stuff water pumps?

Subject: Re: Anyone reviewed Tuff Stuff water pumps?
by Durango_Boy on 2012/6/21 12:56:39

Quote:

rklessdriver wrote:
People know so little about cooling systems.

First off it's a system. There are a number of componets that have to be matched together correctly to make it optimal.

The water pump is just one part of the system.

We commonly run high volume water pumps on our oval track cars. We also run huge radiators, we play with different size restrictors (no thermostat)to maximize heat transfer, we run 1:1 pulley's to slow the water pump down at high RPM (stock pulley's overdive the WP by 10%) and we run a 24LB radiator cap (stock is 12-16LB).

Some of these things transfer over to street cars really well and some don't.

Big radiator = Good
Water restrictor = Bad (unless you have a race car on the street)
1:1 pulley = Bad for an engine that idles around alot
24LB cap = Bad for plastic radiators and heater cores.... however a TRUE 16LB cap is one of the best things you can do.
HV water pump = IMO nothing good/bad one way or the other... however with a weak radiator cap a HV pump can cause the overflow collection part of the cooling system to recirculate alot - Which will cause higher coolant temps. In a case like this a TRUE 16LB radiator cap (like the STANT "racing" caps) will solve the problem.
Will



That's good info, and thanks, but I am failing to see how it relates to what I am asking.

My current system cools effectively. I do not experience overheating issues and the system has been well thought out and designed for my engine and my car.

I have a good quality aluminum radiator with a proper radiator cap and stock reservoir. I have a 185 degree T-stat with a 1/8" relief hole drilled to allow for a small amount of flow during the warm up process. I have two electric fans. One that comes on with the IGN and one that comes on when the engine coolant temps reach 195. I flush the system and fill with new fluid every Spring.

This aluminum pump I am looking at is no different from the iron pump with the exception of it being made from aluminum instead of iron. That's it. It's not a higher flow or higher pressure. It's a long, reverse rotation pump, and I plan on using the same pulley as before.

Let me be clear. I don't have a cooling system problem and I am not trying to 'fix' something with this new pump. I don't expect it to all of a sudden run 10 degrees cooler and I'm not expecting it to free up 15% of my power because it has a big name stamped into the side of it.

Aluminum pumps weigh less than iron pumps. Weight savings can be very valuable and this is a fast and cheap way to shave off a few more pounds. That's it.

Now, IF the pump's aluminum construction allows it to shed heat faster, bonus, but does that matter to me? Nope.
CorvetteForum.guru is independently owned and operated. This site is not associated with or financially supported by General Motors.

Copyright 2008-2015 CorvetteForum.guru

CorvetteForum.guru is a Guru Garage Site (Coming Soon!)

If you have any questions about our site, please contact us at Andy@corvetteforum.guru.

Powered by XOOPS 2.56 Copyright 2001-2014 www.xoops.org

Hosted by GoDaddy.com.