My Rear Differential and Suspension Rebuild Chronicles
Subject: My Rear Differential and Suspension Rebuild Chronicles by dstaley on 2009/5/8 2:38:45
OK guys, I like seeing photo journals of other people's projects (especially when I'm considering doing the same thing) so I figured I'd post up some progress shots as I go through my rear suspension.
I pulled the original 52,000 mile, 180hp L48 350 last fall and replaced it with a freshly built 409 SBC. Simulations suggest I can expect about 415hp, 485 ft-lbs torque from the new engine. This won't happen until I upgrade the exhaust (basic local muffler shop dual 2" crimp bent tubing and stock type mufflers) with a new Magnaflow stainless steel 2-1/2" mandrel bent system with X-pipe.
I didn't want to install the new exhaust until I've put to bed any concerns with the rear differential. With the new engine but old exhaust, there's a strong vibration at WOT and signs that the U-joints are binding. Time to take care of it before I am replacing broken parts. Once the new engine was installed, I asked Gary what concerns I should have about the rear suspension and differential while I replace the U-joints and he suggested that I might check a few things like side yoke end play.
I'm replacing the rear spring (original 9-leaf for new VB&P 330 lb/in composite), new shocks all the way around (matching Bilstein Sport), new gears, differential bearings, solid U-joints, H/D halfshaft yoke conversion, new camber (strut) rods made from chromoly tubing and spherical rod ends, and I'll make a billet aluminum center strut rod bracket.
That's when all the "fun" began.
First, pull the old parts:
Once it was out, it was time to make an adapter so that I could comfortably mount the differential housing to the engine stand.
Now, to check end play on the side yokes:
Uh-oh, way over spec:
Once I pulled the crosspin, it was easy to see that it wasn't only the yokes that are bad.
This car has had an easy life, and is fairly low in miles- these things were just plain inadequate by design. Fortunately, Gary (GTR1999) knows exactly what to do.
Next, I had to make a spanner wrench to get the yoke loose. I made one out of some scrap 3/8 x 2" bar stock I had lying around plus an old smallblock piston wrist pin.