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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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I wish I had more time to keep up with this thread, but it seems like I spend every day just running around and never have any time to even make a post.
Car is coming along, a hell of a lot quicker than my C6 did. I have a few pictures for you guys and some updates. The dash is almost back together as of today. Next time I will have time work work on it will be Friday, but I am hoping to have a hell of a lot more done then along with some new pictures. The heater box is out of a 95, got it off ebay. Had to move the controller from the top of the box to the bottom... hoping it moves in the right direction when it finally comes time to adjust the heat and a/c. The good news is, it went in easy and the dash is going back together at rapid pace. Picked up the new engine from the machine shop! Looks awesome, hopefully runs awesome. And I was surprised to see my father purchased a TPIS miniram for it. This blows the budget but at least the car is getting done right. Looks like its going to turn out to be a very nice car when its done! I was also able to get the wiring harness in without any major issues.   New heater box!  Old Heater box!    
Posted on: 2013/12/10 5:58
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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Yes, I do all my work with Bob and John at Precision Engines in Middletown, NY. I am not much into circle track racing, however, back about 8 years ago we had a 72 Corvette that needed an engine and we bought a 377 from them. I was hooked. Endless RPM and Torque... They also did the head work on my C6. I am making 562HP/583TQ on 9psi of boost from a M112, no knock, no heat issues. Car runs consistently at 169*F. Unfortunately I was not smart enough to invest in a new oil pump... (see thread in C6 section of this forum) DG
Posted on: 2013/12/3 5:36
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Re: Oil pump failure? |
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Elite Guru
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My oil is going to blackstone the first opportunity i get
Posted on: 2013/12/3 5:12
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Re: Oil pump failure? |
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M112 at 9psi of boost. 562whp/583tq I want to reiterate that this oiling issue is as recent as yesterday. For the last 5k miles my oil pressure has been on point.
Posted on: 2013/12/3 5:11
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Re: Oil pump failure? |
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Huh? They make a tool to prime it. I have seen it; unfortunately I do not own it. Although I will soon enough. I really hate these priming conversations; 1000 threads on various forums online and they all contradict themselves. I am so wondering how or if GM ever primed the engine when they built it. DG
Posted on: 2013/12/3 5:09
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Re: Oil pump failure? |
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Here's the thing; Although I would love to diagnosis this problem and potentially save myself having to rip this monster apart AGAIN, I have two issues; I am extremely paranoid and I have very bad luck. That combination leads me to believe that the best thing for my bearings is not to start that car until this issue is resolved. I really don't have the extra tolerances for this engine to chew up, beings as though it runs on 9 psi of boost. I was thinking of pulling the cam when I do the pump and checking the cam bearings to see if any damage was done. What are your thoughts on run time v.s. bearing wear. Also, someone made a statement at some point that even though I have been getting excellent oil pressure until yesterday, its possible a portion of this motor has been starving for oil since the rebuild. Is there any truth to that? (I sure hope not) I have the linked bar morel lifers (5206). I need to locate my cam card asap! DG 
Posted on: 2013/12/3 5:06
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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Posted on: 2013/12/2 3:24
Edited by Danspeed1 on 2013/12/2 3:58:19
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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It would be nice if someone could clarify this. I am still very curious. Essentially it is my understanding that the coolant flows from the lower hose through the pump from the front to back, then up the back to the front. If so I can understand where you would have a lull where the coolant goes out the rear passages into the hoses and back into the radiator, overheating the front of the engine block where the coolant essentially boils. Otherwise I would agree, it really wouldn't make any difference. Normally I would disagree as I am usually the first person to make accusatory statements but these guys have already proven to be reliable so I just take there word for it. There was no incentive for them not to machine the intake, the would have just made more money. I can't see why you would turn away easy work unless you honestly thought it was a bad idea. As I mentioned before there is really not enough information on this to know for sure. Now the tough part is finding an intake that works. So far we are on budget with this project even with the engine rebuild DG
Posted on: 2013/12/2 2:09
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Re: Oil pump failure? |
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Are there any additional ports I can use on an LS2 engine to test oil pressure with a mechanical gauge? Although the engine did sound like it may not have been pumping up the lifters I want to rule out a bad sensor.
DG
Posted on: 2013/12/2 0:48
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Re: Oil pump failure? |
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Engine was fine before changing the cam and lifters I still have the stock rocker arms with a trunion upgrade Yes, the rocker geometry is good Tell me more about the "oil band" on the morel lifters. This is a topic I am not familiar with. The lifters were ordered for the LS2 specifically and have been used by many other members of both the corvetteforum, ls1gto, and ls1tech with issue other than a little additional noise. The engine has been running since August and we have put 5000+ miles on it with good consistent oil pressure. Then yesterday we had NONE. DG
Posted on: 2013/12/2 0:44
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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Very good question. In my area we have alot of really bad shops and one great one. The machine shop I had the engine built at, I have been using for almost a decade. Circle track racing in my area is very big and these guys build 90% of those engines. You would think that would make the prices unreasonable but you would be mistaken. On top of superior work the prices are very, very fair. Having worked with them before and seeing the results on the last few engines we had built I tend to not argue when I am told something. They downright refused to put the intake on engine they built. We had purchased an already done intake from a corvetteforum member who had lied about the condition (go figure), and when we received it realized it was worthless. So we went as far as to purchase a new ported LT1 intake from ebay. We brought both to the machine shop to have them make the adjustments so we could use it on this engine. They took one look at it and said NO!. Most of the intakes being built have water ports in the rear. I am told this is very bad because the water never flows to the front of the engine and doesn't cool the first 2 cylinders. This can lead to overheating and head gasket issues. The only way to make it work is to drill out the front ports, and their was not enough meat to run a significantly sized water opening to cool the engine. Now I know people have used this setup for years, but even after I went online looking for information on how true this was, I couldn't find any. This is due in part to the fact that by the time these intake swaps came around, LSx swaps were more popular. The engine is brand new from top to bottom. Only things reused were the pistons, rods, and crank. The heads have been hand ported, all the valves and bearings are new. I rather do it the right way, then rig it and have a problem. I don't want to have to face these guys if I do have an issue after i was told no. DG
Posted on: 2013/12/1 21:11
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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I was pretty angry I made a mistake like that. The smart thing to do would have been to evaluate the wiring harness first and then figure out how to install it without removing the dash. I usually avoid situations like that, but I have alot going on right now and my mind was in a different place. The good news is, the dash absolutely had to come out anyway. Even though the firewall in that area was not damaged, the heated air got into the plastic heater box and melted it. If I didn't replace it the car would never have any heat or air conditioning. I decided while the dash was out, I might as well do a heater core and that's when I found the box was damaged... so I did same some work in the long run, but boy is that interior a mess! Wiring is all done,... everything fits factory. The car is really shaping up nicely so far.
Posted on: 2013/12/1 21:01
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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Posted on: 2013/12/1 4:30
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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Elite Guru
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No work for weeks and then... all this at once.
Pulled apart the entire interior so I could access the wiring harness for the engine compartment. Turned out after all this work, the harness was right under the heater box and could have been easily installed without the removal of the dash. I was pretty annoyed but the good news is that the heater box itself was damaged (and we didn't realize it), and we were able to find the damage, remove it, and just ordered another one to replace it with. Big day today! The NEW 350 came back from the machine shop. Our goal is to have this thing running by Christmas. As soon as the heater box comes in I plan on slamming this thing so stay tuned for more details and updates... they're comin DG 
Posted on: 2013/12/1 4:28
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Oil pump failure? |
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Just got my 2005 Vette back together in august after a 1 year build that cost way too much blood sweat and overtime. I fear it may all have to come apart this winter. In short, I am running ported heads, cam, morel lifters, M112 supercharger, and Methanol Injection on a stock bottom LS2. For whatever reason at the time I rebuilt the engine I opted to stick with my stock 40K mile oil pump (big mistake). For the last 5K miles the car has run decent, with no major issues. I have electrical gremlins however my oil pressure has always been a consistent 45 psi cold, 32-34 psi hot and 50-60 psi at 2000+RPM. Since day 1 of rebuild I noticed that when the engine was cold it made a pretty loud ticking sound I was told it was the morel lifters. Last week I was driving the car when the low oil pressure light came on. I quickly shut the car. And then restarted it. Pressure was back to 40 psi. I figured it was an electrical problem. Today was last ride before I put it away for winter. 28*F outside; I went out and started her up. It was shuttering pretty hard but its really cold so I didn't think anything of it till I looked in my rear view mirror and noticed a huge black cloud coming out the rear of the car. Never seen that before! Just around that time I looked down at the oil pressure gauge and noticed 0 psi. Killed the car. Total elapsed time it ran was for about 12-15 seconds. I opened up the oil cap and with a flashlight looked in. It was pretty dry. I had my father restart the car once to see if oil was reaching the head. Ran it for about 5 seconds... nothing, however now we had oil pressure... 28 psi. Started the car a couple seconds later, car still dead cold 26 psi. Gave it a quick rev and got it up to 32 psi. Normally it would be in the 50's. What scares me a little bit is when I pulled the dipstick i noticed a milky substance on it (could be moisture) but I could swear I saw metal particles. Could be my imagination.
I have a couple of thoughts here. I am hoping the oil pump is not bad and this thing has to come apart again. I am really hoping the bearings are not F***ed! Car ran the day prior with consistently good oil pressure. I shut it down, started it today, and now this. I am 1/2 wondering if the oil pressure sensor went bad?? Or maybe the pressure relief on the pump is stuck open. Either way this is all so sudden I don't know where to begin. Is there anyway I can test the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. Also how long would the oil take to reach the top of the head? Dan
Posted on: 2013/12/1 4:05
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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Of course! I'm building him the same system i had on my 89. Long tubes into bullet cats, into an x-pipe and out a set of magnaflows. 2.5in Should be done in a couple of weeks. waiting on a new oil pan and valve covers to come in and the machine shop will be finishing it up. I will post some pics when its back in our possession. DG
Posted on: 2013/11/3 17:44
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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Oh I forgot to mention they are balancing everything as well.
DG
Posted on: 2013/10/31 4:31
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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I agree honestly, I was under the impression that shiny bearings were just used bearings. I haven't pulled out any in a while so I can't remember what the last set looked like, but according to my machine shop they aren't shot but it would be a good idea to replace them. Just to give you all an update, engine project has gotten completely out of hand (which of course is what you were all secretly hoping for anyway). Engine is still at the engine shop, but nearing competition. All the bottom end internals are stock but have been cleaned up, all new bearings, new oil pump, new timing chain, heads were hand ported with a 3 angle performance valve job. The guys building this so called budget motor are the best in my area. I have personally done business with them many times before, there is some real magic in their port work. I am not sure what the flow numbers are but they said we are going to be very pleased with the end result. They spec'd out a custom cam to go along with the heads and then port matched everything to the LT1 intake we are also having them tap and drill the distributor hole for. Roller rockers, push rods, valve springs and all new hardware. Hardly what you would call a bare bones rebuild. As usual well over done for the application. This should be some car when its done. DG
Posted on: 2013/10/31 4:29
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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We took some pictures over to the engine builder today who agreed that they would definitely hold up, however the shininess you are seeing on the main caps signify wear. Chances are they will hold up long term, however we could experience low oil pressure issues. Its safe to say the life of the bearings is diminished. My father can't afford a Stroker rebuild at this time, but has opted to have the entire engine rebuilt with all new bearings. Everything else will get polished up and reinstalled. They are going to swap out the cam and port the stock heads as from what I am told they have worked with these particular heads before and have a formula to get them to make power. Install roller rockers, performance valve job... I told them the goal is 400hp and supposedly this shouldn't be a problem. We are going to couple that to an LT1 intake manifold, a set of hooker headers and a 2.5in exhaust with magnaflow mufflers and cats. MDS 6AL w/6200 rev limit. DG
Posted on: 2013/10/10 19:07
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Re: Looking for decent rotors for brake upgrade |
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I was just looking through some old threads and came across this one. The brake setup has been on the car for a while now... but for kicks I thought I would post a couple of pictures.
Even more so the reason for posting was after 30K miles, the pads are worn to only about 40% and the rotors stop like the day they were installed with no vibration at all. It seems like a good product. Will buy again! Believe it or not, the combination of the C5 ZO6 calipers, Stoptech Rotors and the Hawk pads stop this car in a shorter distance than my C6. I can lock the ABS at 80MPH. Incredible    Its amazing but these calipers really do fit ANYTHING! DG
Posted on: 2013/10/10 1:36
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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I was asked tonight what distributor to purchase to go with the LT1 intake. Supposedly the HEI big top will not fit in between the LT1 Intake and a normal firewall. With the firewall being reconstructed a smaller distributor is going to be the safest bet. Funny thing is, I haven't worked on a car with a distributor since my 89 which was probably like 6 years ago. I took a brief look online. We've got an old MSD 6AL, and a coil sitting on the shelf. I am thinking the MSD-8366 Distributor. Are their any better solutions? What is the benefit, if at all of using this over another more traditional distributor?
DG
Posted on: 2013/10/10 1:24
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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I can pull all that stuff from the junk yard for like $30. Having the manifold drilled is going to be the bulk of the cost. We rather purchase one from someone who is fluent in doing them and just slap it on instead of having to rely on my machine shop which is not used to doing it, to get it done right. If we can just get a hold of a drilled manifold, I will have no problem getting the rest of the parts.
DG
Posted on: 2013/10/8 21:14
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Anybody know of anyone who is machining the LT1 Intakes for a distributor anymore? I am skeptical about having my local machine shop do one and the miniram is very expensive.
He still hasn't decided what to do about the bottom end yet but we are in the process of accumulating parts and repairing the firewall. DG
Posted on: 2013/10/8 15:50
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My thought was to try and find one that was already done by a company, but then again who really knows who performed the work on a part so old? I haven't worked on one of these GEN I's in a while and I am not sure what would be a fairly economical intake setup would be. I know mini rams are like $1K+ so those are off the table and there really is not point in heads/cam with a TPI unit. DG
Posted on: 2013/9/21 18:18
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Yea, I have to agree with Bogus. The engine is "within" spec, and cylinders visually look good. I just finished up a heads/cam install on my C6 and it went well, but my father isn't interested in doing bottom end work; if it were my car I would swap the bearings, plastigauge check them and run it, but in this case being as it is not my motor and I haven't done any bottom end work in almost 10 years I think the safer bet is if they look good, leave em alone. They look good to Bogus and I, how do they look to you? Just my $0.02 DG
Posted on: 2013/9/21 18:15
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10 quarts??? really? Did I mention I live in "UPSTATE" NY. We are a special breed up here.... And if it was a leaking injector... where did all the oil go. This stuff was tinted on the way out, but pretty much clear. DG
Posted on: 2013/9/20 0:56
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Below is what I did as far as the breakdown process. Not surprisingly the engine was clean inside, very clean, and everything looked surprisingly intact. The bottoms of the cylinders still had the original cross hatching; the car only has 35K miles. I am not sure how to tell if any rods were bent during the process of running it with 10qts of gasoline in the crank case but everything seems to move freely. The other question I have is in regard to the bearings. They look good to me however I really don't have enough bottom end knowledge to tell if they are still good. I pulled one of the main caps as a quick way to check and took some pictures. There are some lines in the bearings, but they don't seem deep. Its kind of what I thought it would look like, if you guys could take a closer look and let me know what you think I would appreciate it.
We discussed our plans a little further tonight. We have come to the conclusion that if the bottom end can be saved we would like to purchase a set of performance heads, a mild cam, and probably go with a LT1 intake drilled for a distributor. Thoughts????         This is all the parts going right into the garbage...  And for some good news today,... the COMPLETE!!! wiring harness inside and out of the vehicle... labeled by the previous owner might I add... arrived today!!! 
Posted on: 2013/9/20 0:54
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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I'd say we hit the nail on the head with this one. Today I stopped by to break down the engine and take a closer look at what we've got. It appears this idiot filled the engine to the top with gasoline and then turned the key. What you have below, is not oil, but gasoline. I removed nearly 10 quarts from the oil pan. I am keeping my fingers crossed that no rods were bent in the process of running the vehicle. Take a look
  Both those oil containers are filled with gas that I removed from the oil pan. Filter was never changed and neither was the oil so I am hoping the motor was only run for a couple of seconds before it burst into flames
Posted on: 2013/9/20 0:40
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Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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Quote:
Judging by the fact the technician wasn't able to face the owner, i am willing to bet it was something he did. Not to mention the fact that he was supposed to be changing the oil... would leave me to believe it was intentional. I am going to be doing the wiring and helping with the engine reinstall. I spoke with my dad yesterday, and I still don't have clear picture of what is going to fill the engine compartment. Since this was a surprise purchase I know its going to be on a budget, and although I heard talk of an LSx while we were ripping out the TPI, I don't honestly foresee that happening. Personally, if it was mine I would do a 383 with a machined LT1 intake. In any event, later this week we are going to tear down the TPI motor and check out the internals. There is a slight possibility that maybe this thing only ran for a couple of seconds before catching fire and the bearings aren't going to be wiped out. If so maybe a low budget refresh and a small cam... In any event Ill be sure to post more pics! DG
Posted on: 2013/9/18 4:23
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I stopped by yesterday for something unrelated and was surprised to find the car out in the driveway all cleaned up. Its amazing, the engine compartment doesn't actually look all that bad. The wiring on the other hand is a little overwhelming. I was questioning the promises I made to help wire it up.
    Honestly this seems to be the worst of it. He is going to have to fiberglass the firewall in this area.  DG
Posted on: 2013/9/17 13:50
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Well, unfortunately although I feel the same way, and my father felt the same way as he actually told her when he picked up the car she should have went after him, but apparently she is too busy and just wanted to be rid of the car. Now that it is in our possession the only thing to do is look forward. It is my opinion that he scored a really nice project car with a decent story. The car still has her plates on it and they are being returned this week. Even though it has nothing to do with us my father feels she should know that this guy filled her engine with gas so he is going to tell her as well as provide her with pictures. But at the end of the day its not going to change anything.
As for the car: today he was able to score what appears to be a complete harness from inside the car all the way though the engine compartment out of a 91... hopefully its the same as a 90? Now we just need to figure out what to do with the engine. As always we work on a budget. Although I would love to do an LSx swap, I have a feeling mating a LSx to a ZF6 is going to create another hair pulling situation, and we already have enough of that going on. So maybe a heads/cam TPI is the best direction to go in. DG
Posted on: 2013/9/15 23:45
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How NOT to flush engine oil! |
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My father picked up a new project. I stopped by yesterday to help him pull the engine out so we could take a closer look. Car is real nice; or should I say "was" real nice. 1990 with 35K original miles, a ZF6 and the owner really took good care of it. Interior looks like the day it rolled off the show room floor. The owner didn't have time for the car and put it away for a couple of years. As I am told, this past year she removed the car from storage and brought it to a Chevy Dealership where she was handed an astronomical bill for maintenance work to get the car back on the road. From what I can tell, all the car would have needed was an oil change and battery to run, but I don't have to imagine too hard the service adviser trying to make a whole months shop time on it. She didn't want to pay and took the car home. Apparently she was contacted by one of the technicians who told her in his free time he could get the car back on the road for her as long as she paid cash on the side. So she had the car towed to his house. Hours later she received a voice mail on her phone from the technician stating there had been an "accident" while changing the oil and the car went up in flames. The fire department had to respond to put it out (with dry chemicals thankfully). Upon our inspection we found the engine crank case was filled with gasoline. Apparently this guy decided rather than doing an engine flush with the proper additives he would just use gas. Engines run on gas, but not as a substitute for oil! You would think a GM tech would know this. So from what I was told she came to pickup the car, the technician wasn't even around, she had it towed away and hasn't been in contact since. She couldn't be bothered with the hassles of court so she put the car up for sale as parts... My father purchased it for parts but has since decided its too nice to part out and would like to restore it.
Yesterday we pulled the motor out, which was a heck of a job! Motor was unbolted in less than 2 hours, and took 5 hours to separate from the ZF6 WTF? But we got it out. The engine compartment isn't horrible, the firewall worked! However, the wiring harness for both the engine and heater controls are gone! Not really sure what to do about this one. Looking for advice on how to tackle this project. Thoughts? DG      
Posted on: 2013/9/15 17:34
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Re: Suspension Guru's please step in |
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Ordered
Thanks DG
Posted on: 2013/9/2 16:43
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Suspension Guru's please step in |
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Suspension is definitely not my forte so I am going to need some help with this one. I have a 2005 Grand am GT. After I upgraded the brakes I decided to swap out the wheels to TSW's with 225/40/18 Kuhmo 4x (which has also been nothing but a headache), and then finally decided to upgrade the shot suspension (150K miles) to all new Eibach springs (1.4 drop), KYB shocks, and all new hardware (boots, bushings). About 50 miles of driving (enough time to settle the suspension) I took it in for a wheel alignment. We have a few cars, and my wife has the longer commute so there are times when I don't notice things. Took the car out yesterday and noticed it was pulling very hard to the left. Figured one of us hit a pot hole and threw out the alignment so I made an appointment to get it redone. I just had an alignment done about 10K miles ago. I decided to do a tire rotation and when I pulled off the front tires below is what I found. Both tires were shredded on the inside. Understandable. I ordered two new tires and rotated the fronts to the rear for the drive to the alignment shop. Here's the part I don't understand: Got back on the highway with the fronts in the rear and the car is no longer pulling.... I think I may have a more serious problem here. I was under the impression inner tire wear is caused by bad toe, however I am wondering if the drop has something to do with it, and maybe I need a serious camber adjustment. I am not knowledgeable enough on suspensions to know for sure. HELP!?
 
Posted on: 2013/8/31 14:36
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Re: Caliper Rebuild |
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Thank you
Posted on: 2013/4/18 4:55
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I am rebuilding a set of calipers. I never realized how simple the design was till I popped out the piston. I was wondering, when reinstalling the "square cut seal" on the inside of the caliper, is the seal directional or does it go in either way? It looks the same on both sides but I just wanted to make sure before I put it in.
Thanks, Dan
Posted on: 2013/4/17 16:12
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Re: Looking for decent rotors for brake upgrade |
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Found this thread after a few months. The brakes worked out great and the stoptech rotors are excellent. After 15K mile they still look great, stop on a dime, and do not pulsate. Money well spent!
DG
Posted on: 2012/9/17 2:32
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Re: Looking for decent rotors for brake upgrade |
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After hours of reading,... I broke down and bought a set of stoptech rotors..... hope they were worth the money...
DG
Posted on: 2012/6/30 16:22
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I'm looking for a long service life. Easily put 30K miles on the car per year. I hate pulsating brakes. I was considering brakemotive because of all the reviews on the other site, however I see most of the guys who purchase them only use them on cars that do about 2-4K miles per year. These is what makes me skeptical.
DG
Posted on: 2012/6/30 13:58
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Looking for decent rotors for brake upgrade |
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Hello,
I am doing the Corvette Brake upgrade on my 2005 Grand AM GT1. Yes, you read correct. 2004 ZO6 brakes fit a Pontiac grand am. I am going to be using the Impala rotors from the 00-05 and a set of Hawk HPS pads. I know not all rotors are created equal. My question is what is a good quality brand to go with that is not going to cost me an arm and a leg. Looking to spend around $100 or less for a set. I am thinking of Napa, or maybe a set of GM heavy duty from Rock Auto. What are your thoughts. Looking for good heat distribution for a smooth ride and longevity. DG
Posted on: 2012/6/30 0:30
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Re: Strange Issues with Air Conditioning |
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CLICK BELOW: HOPEFULLY THIS MAKES IT EASIER
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzesqXxzGS0&feature=channel&list=UL
Posted on: 2012/6/12 21:32
Edited by Danspeed1 on 2012/6/12 21:47:19
Edited by Danspeed1 on 2012/6/12 21:48:07 |
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Re: Strange Issues with Air Conditioning |
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I am wondering if I added too much oil. System seemed dry however I may have went overboard. How would I know?
DG
Posted on: 2012/6/12 19:50
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Re: Strange Issues with Air Conditioning |
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Glad I just hooked up the gauges and didn't run the car with the pressure switch off! Here is what I've got
The Static Pressure with the vehicle off and cold at 69*F Outside: Low Side (Blue) 75 High Side (Red) 75 Dynamic Pressure with the vehicle running initially Low Side 40 High Side 205 Dynamic Pressure with the vehicle running in closed loop Low side 60 High Side 450 *NOTE: The pressure switch cuts the compressor off when the pressure exceeds 450PSI on the high side. Static Pressure HOT Low Side 120 High Side 120 _________________________________________________ I noticed the compressor is getting vehicle hot very quickly, however the operation is smooth and there is no noise. The orifice tube is new, and at least 7oz of oil has been added to the system. I filled the system with 3 cans of R12..... However the compressor continued to cycle during the duration of the filling so I doubt its over filled. DG
Posted on: 2012/6/12 19:22
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Re: Strange Issues with Air Conditioning |
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I think I have an extra switch in my basement from my 89, I will try that out and post back!
DG
Posted on: 2012/6/12 15:08
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I looked on line. I have no idea how to measure how much R12 is in there. It would read the same pressure whether it had only one can or 3 wouldn't it?
DG
Posted on: 2012/6/12 15:07
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Re: Keyless Entry/Remote Start System for 87 Vette |
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Your right.... I can make one just as good.
DG
Posted on: 2012/6/12 15:04
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Strange Issues with Air Conditioning |
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I am working on the R12 A/C System on a 1987 Corvette with an Automatic. I am doing my best to try and get this done right, but the tools to do it right are harder and harder to come by.
This is what I have done so far; System was empty when I received the vehicle. I pulled a vacuum on the system for an hour. To do this I went out and purchased R134A Conversion ports and connected. This way I was able to hookup my 134A Manifold Gauge Set. I have about 6 cans of R12 Left so I want to make sure they don't get used in vein. General Motors states that if the system holds vacuum for 5 minutes its good to go. After 5 minutes I noticed the pressure in the system start to bleed off so I decided to replace all the o-rings with updated green ones, put in a new accumulator, and a new orifice tube. I added 4oz of Mineral oil to the accumulator, 1oz to the compressor, and 1oz to the area of the orifice tube. I pulled Vacuum again. It held at 29 for more then 5 minutes. On most systems I do I will let the gauge set sit on the system overnight. That is the ultimate leakage test. Unfortunately after 1 hour vacuum slowly started to bleed off. However I know R12 is heavy/thick so I decided to take my chances and add 3 cans of R12 which is the recommended amount. I have a 30 year old can hose I used. The refrigerant took about 20 minutes a can with the compressor cycling non stop before I finally made it through all 3 cans and the compressor stayed on and the accumulator and larger line stayed cold. Throughout the induction of the R12 I noticed my line was leaking a little for time to time. Its old. But I am pretty sure 95% of the refrigerant made it into the system. What happened next baffles me. I turned the car off, it cooled down. I restarted it and turned the A/C on. The A/C blows ICE Cold till the car gets to about 190*F then they compressor begins cycling and the system only blows hot air! I couldn't figure out what was wrong. For whatever reason I decided to pull the plug out of the switch on the orifice tube line (forget what its called). The one closer to the bend. Upon doing so the fans kicked on along with the compressor and the system seems to be functioning properly. My questions are as follows. How do you measure the amount of R12 that made its way into the system? Again I am pretty sure its all in there but I want to make sure. Also what is the purpose of the switch I pulled and is it worth replacing? Finally what temperature should the A/C be blowing at for an original R12 System? Thanks, DG
Posted on: 2012/6/12 4:31
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Re: Keyless Entry/Remote Start System for 87 Vette |
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I can definitely make one out of a resistor and a pop sickle stick, but I was looking to do a cleaner install on this car.
DG
Posted on: 2012/6/12 3:38
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Re: Keyless Entry/Remote Start System for 87 Vette |
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After a little bit of research I decided to go with the Viper 4104 1-way remote start key less entry.
Is there anything else I will need to get this system functioning properly? Specifically which bypass module should I purchase to bypass the chipped key? DG
Posted on: 2012/6/11 19:15
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Keyless Entry/Remote Start System for 87 Vette |
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Hello,
I am back, with a project I am interested in completing on an 87 Corvette with an Automatic. My dad just bought another C4 and this one is in really nice shape. He is looking to use it as his daily driver and has been taking more and more about a Keyless entry/Remote Start. With fathers day coming up and a lack of competent shops around I decided that I would buy a system and we could install it together. I had an 89 C4 with a 6 speed a few years ago and successfully installed a VKE1000. I am looking to use a more updated system what also incorporates a remote start into the equation. The catch or rather what I am worried about is retaining the function (and surprisingly it is working) of the VATS system. I have done a 4-5 Compustar remote start/keyless entry systems in various cars. I am comfortable with that system, however their tech support sucks and I am open to trying something new. My biggest fear as I said is messing with the VATS system. Recommendations? DG
Posted on: 2012/6/6 4:37
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