it's slow as hell, ain't it?

The last I heard from Bruthish on this subject was that the hosting company was going to move us to a dedicated server.

However, the underlying problem is that the software is a system hog... it makes 170 SQL calls just to post one thread.

your problem, however resolved, sounds like a bad bose relay.

you can buy a hyperchip type programmer for that, and I suspect TJ Wong would be willing to lend you a hand on getting the numbers right.

It doesn't have to be spot on, just within a good range.

there could be something binding down by the tilt mechanism, tho...

it might require taking it apart and seeing what it broke.

yea, i read the comments from TJWong on your post over at CF (before the database crashed, that is). I agree, the OBDII does cause issues with cam changes.

I just hope you don't have to pass a CARB type test... Get that thing tuned!!!

gee... get it all ready, then put the project on the back burner... unfair.

I can check, but that means going out to the garage, and it's kinda chilly, I am tired, and have a cold...

it doesn't cover mods, but it will tell us what a P300 means!!!

what year is your Vette?

This sounds odd to me. There isn't any connection inside the column that would cause this.

I would check the ujoints under the hood, tho.

I wonder if the security pin/lock plate are binding up?

I doubt the frame is bent.

Don't let damage appearances cause you to think it's worse. More than likely, the wheel got wacked... the shimmy could be a damaged wheel/tire.

I would check the rear axle out, to be sure there wasn't any bearing damage.

even if the framw is bent, it won't cause a "shimmy." It would make it drive queer, but not shimmy.

Glad you are ok!!!!!

I swear I have seen a set that look like the 70s LeMans lights... round with a slight bulge...

congrats! And welcome!

I hope we can help you keep'er running strong!



judging from your handle, you have a 94? What are the specifics? Options? Colour?

Quote:

I thought it looked a little funny... it's a Tecumseh....

Quote:

I have been around with those systems on lawn tractors.

Do a bit of digging, push mowers have starters... I donno about alternators, tho... You can always put a car battery in the thing and use a charger to trickle it back up.

RPMs are the trick.... lotsa RPMs.

It really isn't that crazy. Think about it... Honda motorbikes with 150cc or so are putting out 30hp...

with these things, it requires a lot more engine guts (meaning, you can't convert a basic motor) than you have!

The alcohol comes in once the compression climes and heat becomes a real problem...

there is a kart track near Dover, DE... a few years back (when I still lived there), my friend Travis and I went to watch a co-workers son race.

the boy was racing in a controlled class...

but you shoulda heared them open class motors!!! 5hp briggs blocks, bored, stroked, sleaved, roller bearings, cam, all sorts of alloys..damned things put out 45hp or so!!! with a 14000 rpm redline! they sounded like single cylinder top fuelers!

keep me posted!

you need to convert that over to alcohol.

Johnny - don't get to comfy with your lack of snow. Augusta is just far enough north to get some, and you know it!

Now... We live in Los Angeles (Torrance, to be exact)... and there is no snow to be seen where I am... but the mountains look nice!!!

clean it, put in a new needle and spring.

These things are way overpriced for what they do... and they get water in them all the time.

To be honest, this is old school tech! I mean, these carbs are gravity fed and are just 1930s tech in nice aluminum.

Clean it well, replace the needle and life will be grand.

The only reason to install a new carb is to get a performance unit.

geez... now I have to kiss ass to someone else...



:tongue:

there are companies that will take that 6hp briggs and make it flat out SING.

How does 40+hp at 14k RPM sound?

I assume this is a Briggs?

do you have spark?

a few tricks....

1) remove the plug and heat it with a lighter.

2) hit it with some starting fluid, if it fires, then it's fuel. Otherwise, you have a spark problem.

3) If it's the carb, I would be it's the float... you don't need to replace it, unless the the needle housing is bad. I would simply hit the needle with some carb cleaner. If the needle is bad, then the housing might be, too.

2 bolt or 4 bolt main?

sounds like some seriously honest power, but not so much as to make things tempermental.

EFI or carb?

that's a good point, but if the brackets are worn out, check www.vette2vette.com or www.corvettesalvage.com, you should be able to get good used parts.

Another thought, if the metal has worn down, take them to a machine shop, where they can weld them up and bring them back to spec.

you got ripped off. It's that simple.

Go to a REAL exhaust shop, and take a look at some series 40s up close and personal.

Read the receipt from the exhaust shop. If they say "series 40 flowmasters" and they don't match, you have a gripe.

Take dad and go down there. If nothing else, you will get the satisfaction of never using them again, and putting them on notice that their business tacticts are inexcusable. Don't let them get away with ripping you off - EVER.

Don't let anyone rip you off. Research, check and double check. It's your hard earned money, and too many people are willing to take it from you.

whoa.

that's a lot of motor.

is the block a seasoned SBC or a new casting? Aluminum or factory iron?

What heads? Crank?

no clue. This is where the Factory Service Manual, available from www.helminc.com or via eBay, comes in real handy.

I have had it happen to mine, too... but I donno why.

it sounds like the pin has worn out. they get rutted near where the caliper meets the bracket.

A little bit of loose is fine, if it's too tight, that could effect braking performance, but too loose is bad.

Also, check the upper control arm bolts. They can work loose, and create that clunk you are talking about. 19mm IIRC.

for 1986, there are two tips, the flowmasters should have both tips open... if nothing else.

check the inlet end, see what is stamped there. I thought flowmaster stamped their name on the case, tho. in like big 2" letters...

I just checked their site....

http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/40_orig.html

return those mufflers, I don't think they are real...

They have an excellent rep down here.

Another great shop is McJack's, in Santa Ana. His specialty is bodywork/paint - all generations, and does restos on C3 and earlier.

www.mcjackscorvettes.com

I use a little anti-seize on the pin. Works wonders, and won't break down from heat or exposure.

did you have a hot air gun? if not, that will help with the compound curves.

A friend of mine does tinting for a living... I have watched him work, and the heat gun is a great way to allow the tint to contour to those kinds of complex curves.

looks cool on the red, tho!

this is great stuff, Pete! Thanks!

I am with Pete... the booster has died.

cool!

Aim for a 73. I like the transitional year... rubber front, chrome rear! That's just neat.

You can even get a BB still!!!

engine... drool... and you had the cover drawn.

sure... I will send it....

go ahead and resend me your address info...

ME!!!

I was laid off today.

The parent corp, which means the company I worked for, is having financial problems.

I got a nice little severance, the ability to collect unemployment, and, a very nice letter of recommendation.

There is also the real possibility that I could get my job back in a few weeks, once revenues improve.

All in all, they handled it well. I suspected something was up, because none of us were given any assignments in the recent weeks, that's because the exec team were trying to raise funds so the company could survive...

they have a product coming out Sept 1. If that flies, they are golden, if not... well... the rest of'm are looking for work.

there is a special socket for that nut.

need one?

you mean the nut that holds the antenna to the body?

wow... have you hit the area with some PB Blaster?

yes, but I lost it in the move.

I agree, the coolant temps seem a little low, perhaps a slow or aging sensor? or perhaps the oil temp sensor has an issue or 2.

As for the oil temps, they will creap up. and when they get there, they stay there.

I would suggest using Mobil 1 in the engine and leave it at that. I know it will deal with the oil temps.

any warning lights on the DIC?

If I am understanding you correctly, it sounds like you have a very firm pedal? If so, it would indicate a failed power brake booster.

Welcome!

you need a day off.... that's nuts...

that's a great idea! I think I have the 1984 commercial, if you don't have it.

that's good.

There is a companion to that joke, where the guy moves to the mountains, and at first loves the snow... well, you can figure how it ends.

A red flag for me would be the 30lb Accel injectors.

First off, I know only a few people who actually liked them.

More importantly, I think they are just too big for your application.

I would consider Ford Motorsports 24# (blue tops).

With a bit more PSI, they are running in the 26lb range.

go to autozone and rent the O2 tool kit.

It has a special offset socket (clawfoot) that will reach the O2 from the top with a long assed extention and a ratchet.

I like the skid marks on the way up the drive. :thumbright:

mine is a mess...

Casey - it's a special kind of heat.

I grew up on the eastern coast of the states... A little state called Delaware, to be exact. It's near Washington, DC.

What happens is this thing called a "Bermuda High." It's a high pressure system that sits down in the Carribean Sea, pumping heat and humidity onto the eastern seaboard.

It's no fun at all.

I remember 4 years ago, there was a heat wave that started in mid-June and ran through to the end of August. I think that every day in that period, the high temp was 90F or better. And on a few days (early July), it was at or above 100F.

Toss in 60% relative humidity, it gets downright nasty.

There is a line that we on the east coast will use... there is nothing worse than Washington, DC in August. That is one steamy place. Ick.

The saving grace? AIR CONDITIONING!!!!!!!!!!!!

But that raises electrical consumption.

The electrical systems in the Mid-Atlantic region (Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, Virginia, Pennsylvania) and points north are more designed to deal with extreme cold. So when it gets hot, the systems over heat.

When you head into the deep south, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, etc, the electrical systems are designed to deal with heat. If they get a freeze, they could loose power. It has happened.

I will put it this way... In Delaware, all the climate control repair specialists are called "Heating and Air Conditioning." Down in Florida, it's "Air Conditioning and Heating." See the priorities?

As an interesting aside, I have found over the years that a Delaware winter will mirror the prior summer. This applies to pretty much the entire North Eastern portion of the USA. We shall see if a major cold snap occurs at the end of January.