Mercedes Benz has just opened their Heritage Centre in Irvine. They have one in Germany, too.

The idea is simple, MB parts, some made as needed, some mass produced, full restoration and support.

Why can't GM help us this way?

I mean... Pontiac has their history database, which helps potential Pontiac owners from getting ripped off at auctions.... But the Museum can't get the funds together to build the same database.

Delorian and Wangers realized back in the day that they needed to log every car, and record it for the future. They felt anything this popular (GTO) would be worth recording, cause folks would either keep them, or want them again.

GM has all the data on build sheets, and I have even offered to write the source to manage it... but they can't seem to get motivated to do anything about it. To say the least, it bothers me.

Some where, someone is buying a car, they think is "X" and it's "X-5" cause it isn't original in some way (think BB in a SB car).... or "original" AC when it isn't.

A good database would solve this problem.

It tells me what GM truely thinks of the Corvette and it's history... let Ecklers build the replacement parts...

I agree! This is the best thing to happen to C4 Guru since we opened the doors!

I am soooo excited!

I have been holding this one back, waiting on their new website, but can't anymore!

I spoke with Chris May at Superior Chevy - yes THAT Superior Chevy - and he is on board with us here at C4 Guru!!!

Just call him up at 1.800.728.8267, ask for Chris May, tell him you are a C4 Guru member and that I sent ya! You are IN for some of the best prices on GM parts and the BEST customer service in the LAND!!!

Let's all welcome Chris and Superior to the C4 Guru family!

I just read about this in Racecar Engineering.

They have improved the LSx block! It has better oiling, capable of dealing with up to 454 CI and the capacity to add extra head bolts for forced induction.

The real trick - It has motor mount bosses cast into it so it will fit where a standard SBC used to.

No word on cost, but you can be sure it ain't gonna be cheap.

[URL=http://electronic-pr.com/pr/new_wp_366.html]Link to Press Release.[/URL]

Just thought I would let you all know...

as much as it's changed, there is such a family resemblence.

the hood lines, the hatch... no question where the C5 came from...

expect everything to need replaced...

offer $2k, TOPS.

It's a blank slate.

I am not sure if unhooking the ABS is going to solve this. But it sure will mask it.

There are tests that can be done with the ABS to determine the cause of the code.

I am wondering if a wheel sensor is out fo wack.

AFAIAK, ABS is a great invention, and is the difference between wrecking and stopping... especially in slick conditions.

So you know, the ABS is behind the drivers seat, in the storage bin.

I moved this to tech where it belongs!

:thumbright: :thumbright: :thumbright:

magnaflow makes xpipes, but for a stock exhaust, there won't be much benefit.

Sweet!!!

I like!!! Very nice!

AND faster!!!

IIRC, on my 92, one of those spring bushings has an extension that acts kinda like a sleave...

I replaced my horns with FIAMM air horns...

Alcee1 is the resident poster child for what CAN be done with the Crossfire.

BTW, his C4 is BAD to the bone!!!!

The bronze/gold exterior matches nicely with the tan interior... he also has a wood dash kit - the ONLY one that I have ever seen that looks right.

Just a lovely ride, all the way around. Sounds awesome, too. :thumbright:

trick is one thing... failing emissions because the PCM is fouled up is another!

You might get it to work... infact, the difference may be in the CCM and not the PCM.

check the helm manual, cause I don't have one for the 1996. if the difference is in there (which makes sense) then the only change would be to a sensor lead to the transmission.

I will be getting one soon, tho... Bastet is getting a 96 LT1 for her 87, so I will want the manual.

I will be ordering the helm soon, like, tonite or something.

I am thinking that perhaps the CCM has it, but there is no input? OR! GM is faking is all out and they are using the coolant temp sensor... sneaky, eh?

more thoughts... check the fuel delivery... is the fuel pump firing? it should run for 2 seconds, then stop once it reaches pressure.

How old is the fuel filter? A clogged filter will kill an engine.

I'm with Bruthish, it sounds like something has fouled up in the fuel system.

Check the fuel filter, too. If any rust made it's way up the line, it will clog the filter.

And then, the biggie, the fuel could be old and stale.

oh, dear... this is the old "let's throw parts and hope to fix it" method of repair.

As you have seen, it really doesn't fix anything.

First off, you have a fuel problem. If it fires on ether, it will fire on fuel, you just don't have any fuel to burn.

Get the fuel pressure gauge. That is a minimum requirement.

VATS will stop spark and fuel, but I don't remember it stopping the starter.

Remember one thing: For every engine to start, it requires air, fuel and spark. Missing one, and the engine will not run.

Does your friend have the Helm Factory Service Manual? I highly advise you get one. www.helminc.com or eBay.

need more info... how many miles and maintenance history.

one thing, the stock AC Delco platinum plugs SUCK.... big time.

They have a platinum puck on the ground strap. Over time (as little as 30k miles) the puck will either fall off or erode away. This takes the gap from .050 to .065... bad... real bad.

And a gap like that will cause problems.

I assume there are no codes?

gee.. they were neutral in the Civil War...

no crap = no traffic, tho... take the good with the bad.

I will have to check my book for actual removal instructions.

but Neal is dead on with bulb replacement. Stink's, don't it?

it would be easier to install a separate set of temp gauges than to convince an automatic PCM to work with a manual.

If you already want to do the dial, I would get a generic two display digital gauge with temp readouts, and hook up a temp sensor to both.

As for integrating said sensor... hm... for the rear diff, there is that drillout kit for a drain? work with that idea.

It might require a drill out to do the same on the transmission.

more than likely, the A4 temp was being read off the radiator. Kinda cheating, when you think about it.

Have either of you ever seen the coolant system that Bill @ ZFDoc has? It's the cool.

I cannot take credit for this place, tho... that's all on Bruthish! And he has done a fabulous job!!!

well... other than it's more work than it's worth.

I would consider saving the time and effort and upgrade to something with power potential.

hell, you can do a lot to the Xfire that will get it up to over 300hp... with no effort.

good point. I didn't know the coil could be that big a pain.

And yes, the PCM won't return a code until it is running. That is an upside to the LTCC. It has a fault code that will appear if the engine does not start. Very usefull.

I think you will find that the LT4 equiped Vettes are mechanically identical to the GS.

This includes the front brakes...

I will not disagree that the GS is a special car... but it was made that way. The unique VIN, the paint, all that... it doesn't make the car any faster.

The ZR1, on the other hand, was special. The engine and body work is very special piece...

what you really need is a copy of the Corvette Black Book. It's written by Mike Antonick.

It is the first source for just about any number you may need.

As an aside, white interior was available but only with certian colours. Aqua, Polo Green, Red and Yellow, I think. The colour was not convertable specific.

The white interior had white door panels and seats, everything else was black. I want to convert my Polo Green/Tan 92 to Polo Green/White.

I think it will be the cool. :D

I woulda loved to...

but the distance is just too much. If I still lived in DE, I would consider it more... but from CA, it's just a bit much.

Can't wait to see pictures!!!!

I have been around the bend with my antenna... to the point I said **** it and got Sirius. :D

However, the ribbon does break, leaving some behind.

And the only way to remove it is to take the antenna out and disassemble. Trust me, this ranks up there with doing an appendectimy orally.

it sounds like you should be ok.

If you are still concerned, I would contact Baer directly.

you may want to investigate other calipers, too... as I said, the Baer calipers are the same as Corvette calipers... it might be cheaper to get, say, GS calipers.... just a thought.

the max rotor size you can use is about 13" with a 17" wheel.

Baer uses a variation on the Corvette brake caliper - made by PBR - so that should be close to a constant.

spark... fuel... no fire... that's odd.

I will have to check my helm manual tonite...

the two wires make up the circuit... it's rather simple, but if the wires are apart, they don't honk...

the bottom parts are common and finish the circuit.

I would check the wiring in the column and make sure nothing is pinched.

damn. you suck.

it sounds like the racheting mechanism has given up the ghost.

you will have to remove the driver seat to get to it...

this one is a pain... it's under the passengers side knee bolster... remove the carpeted panel above ones knee on the passengers side.

it's burried under there somewhere.

well, it won't do that... if the opti dies, it will effect all plugs equally.

As for upgrades, since you are after absolute power, I would look at the LTCC. Put on an OEM opti, remove the rotor and seal the cap with RTV. That should about do it.

Hella makes a conversion that allows for better quality bulb replacements.

I think they are H2 bulbs, so they are replaceable, versus being sealed beams.

I agree with Al on getting better bulbs for the fogs...

that sounds like a vacuum problem.

There are a number of hoses that come off the right side of the intake (under the fuel rail covers). I would check to be sure the vacuum or the connector isn't broken.

If it ain't that... you will have to start digging.

Do you have the Helm factory service manual? If not, get it.

Within the FSM, there are instructions on how to get codes out of the climate control programmer. Also, any lights flashing on the climate controller? The auto light will flicker if there are problems, but you can still learn things about the status of the system from checking the codes and status indicators.

I have the FSM for my 1992, but I don't know if the codes or procedures stayed the same.

If I was a betting man, I would check for vacuum related problems.

To quote Mayor Richard Daley, "Vote early, vote often."

that looks GREAT Neal! Awesome!

I would be surprised if the wires did it, but you can test the theory...

1987 is a roller lifter.

the roller lifter started with the aluminum heads in 1986.

I would bet there is air in there somewhere.

The t-stat will make it run super hot... or not... realize that the t-stat does not regulate temperature, it only says how hot the coolant has to be before the engine is at full temp. I agree, if the temps drop as you move, the stat is more than likely ok.

I would be sure that the intake area is clean. That is a real killer. Debris gets stuck between the radiator and the AC condenser.

I also suggest adding a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. It works! It chemically reduces the surface temperature of the metals so the coolant can better transfer heat. I use it, and it works!

A properly functioning cooling system should not exceed 200F during regular use... and if you are cruising along, 195F is normal.

A question, did you press the gauges button to see what the digital temp was reading? There are 2 temp sensors on the engine, one on the front of the waterpump (digital, ECM feed) and the other is on the right head (between plugs #'s 6 & 8), this one feeds the analogue gauge.

From where I am sitting, if the analogue gauge was reading hot, and the digital was not, then I would bet money on it being an air bubble.

If the digital was reading hot, it would light up the IP with a "check gauges" warning.

Oh, with these cars, the AC will fire up the fans, not just the defrost. If you have C68 (electronic climate control) the AC is on all the time, regardless of heat/cool. It provides humidity control, too.

I understand priorities... it woulda been so cool to see ya, tho!

Not to fret... we will be having fix-it parties soon... as soon as I get the engine for T's Vette!

AL! Where you been, bro???

Great to see you around!

We missed you at last weekend! We had a little get-together over at the Starbucks @ 190th and Anza!

oooh... that's the sorta thing that makes a grown man cry...

:D

some clarification:

The 700R4 and 4L60 are essentially the same unit. There are some changes, but not significant.

The 4L60E started in 1994. The 4L60 started in 1992. But as I said, the 4L60 is just a name change...

As for your needs, the 700R4 is fine.

Now, lockup... you may want to get more detail from Pete, cause I am not all that clear on the concept myself, but, in short, the torque converter is a pump and it accepts a lot of the driveline lash. You can look at a TC as a shock absorber.

Now, when a TC locks up, it is acting much like a direct connection between the engine and the transmission. Until lockup occurs, it's a fluid connection. It causes slip in the driveline.