I am not sure... whatever fits the GM standard... it's that wacky double folded thing.

do one better, do a tech tip on how to fix harnesses!!!!! Take some pics, add some text, we turn it into something wonderful.

I want those tools so I can do harness modifications and such.

yes, it is a known problem. It does not effect pre-1990 cars, tho... they didn't have a CCM in cause it!

now, for the funny part, I have a 92, removed the audio, and DON'T have the light. So I donno why it effects some, but not others.

this is the link:

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/dave8476/index4.shtml

I hear that!

We are trying to build this site... and it takes time.

The membership count is growing... just hard to keep people coming back!

fully electronic. I would be sure that the connections have not been messed up too much by grease and grime...

I would put an x-pipe on that sucker! I think you would pick up 10hp for it.

The only risk... you might loose that great big block sound... drool...

you have the FICHE??? Damn.

I have the CD...

Oh, how much does that killer crimper thing cost??? I wanna get one...

Glad you like the place!

It's great to see you around again!

NEAL!!!!

Welcome bro!!!

I can't help much with this problem... I don't have enough experience with the high-po stuff...

that is hard... I do the same thing... forgetting to take pics. Then I have to redo something!

I sometimes enlist bastet44 to help... she takes great pics.

If you are doing a complex project, perhaps a friend or someone can do the pics.

well... you see... I may be editor in chief, I need volunteer editors to do stories.

I can't do them all. I have one from JetJockey93 about heater cores... The idea is that we document the process whenever we do a project.

So... get crack'n! Grab a digital camera! send me the text and the pics and we will make it look like a million bucks!

hm. that's interesting.

I think the ZR1 is popular due to the very special nature of the entire car... the engine, the body work... it's an entire package.

The GS, however cool, is a paint job. The LT4 was available throughout the line, and is a hot rodded SBC.

I am not trying to deminish the GS... I love'm... but that's the reality.

The Valvoline has such great heat handling properties. I have been using it in both the brakes and the clutch. It's fabulous stuff.... meets or exceeds all manufacturers requirements.

you might want to consider rotors, but rears don't take the beating fronts do, so I would not fret that. Cutting is doable at least once.

There is a lot of misinformation about ABS and doing maintenance on it... there is nothing to worry about! Deal with it like you would a conventional braking system and all will be fine.

I suggest bleeding it and replacing the fluid with Valvoline Synpower Brake Fluid. Great stuff! Great price!

my only thought, which is different than Brutish, is to use Valvoline Synpower Brake Fluid. Great stuff.

I am working on a brake tech tip! I hope to have it shortly.

I would fix the injection... here is a snip of my comments for our records!

----------------------------------------------

ugh... going to carbs... that is the most bass-ackwards thinking. I don't agree with it.

And it has nothing to do with being a "purist" it has everything to do with building the right engine.

The car was a mess, fine, but there are ways to repair this. First off, I am curious why the tuner can't tune it. That bothers me. The 91 ECM is pretty good. I know it's SD, but it could be converted over to MAF, so that's not a problem.

Also, harnesses are not that expensive. I would call Contemporary Corvette, Corvette Salvage (Dino's) or Painless and see what they have.

The other option is to do a FAST system, which might be your best bet.

Unlike Rich's 84, where upgrading to a carb is a good idea, I am not so sure with later injection systems.

Carbs are not as tunable as you think. They are analog devices that work great within a power band, but that's about it. EFI is so much more linear and is capable of dealing with altitude differences much easier. It is intellegent.

Then again, you would loose much of the dash board, and the ABS might just barf. The later electronics are much more integrated, the CCM is expecting a signal so it can communicate with the EBCM... this just gets ugly.

To me, it would be easier to update the injection, fix or replace the harness and be done with it.

lemme address these one at a time.

1) The IP. You have to remove it and make sure all the bulbs are solid and connected well. It's rather easy... just a bunch of screws. The IP requires a bit of massaging to get out.

2) The tranny sounds sick... that is not a good sound at all. I would suspect the bad master cylinder has caused clutch or transmission damage. I would consider replaceing the master/slave and then flushing the fluid out of the transmission and OD unit.

beyond that... I donno what to say.

cool!

on the L98, they work pretty good, really... but on the LT1, I would stay clear.

I agree. check the battery first.

And welcome!!!!

1 - the super ram will wake the motor up. big time.

2. LT headers rock. Add some bullet cats, an x-pipe and duals.

3. heads? this is a loaded debate. Edelbrocks are nice... very nice... AFR will make more power, but have had questionable QC of late. Dart is nice...

4. cam... I would check Crane and Comp... see what they recommend for street usage. Also, don't get a cheapy, the more you spend, the better the quality.

5. Griffin and Becool are good units.

6. can't help you on torque converters.

7. the current transmission is a bomb waiting to go off. 700R4s are junk.

8. 3.07 gears will fit, hell, you can go to 3.73 in a D36, but I would save up for 3.45 gears - in a dana 44. The D36 is just not that strong, and I would save any money on new gears and put it toward the D44.

9. bigger wheels and brakes are good.

The rest of the questions:

Superram will keep EGR. Air pump does nothing. If you can get rid, do so.

You will need a tune... 24# injectors and an AFPR will be good tuning tools.

The IAC and TPS will work on the new TB.

I would NOT go to Jesse for a tune. You need to find a good shop that will dyno tune it.

Where do you live? What are the emissions tests like?

I am still working on it... whew... lotsa work!!!

welcome aboard!

Answering in order:

The cooler is a great idea! It is mounted on the front of the k-frame behind the under car intake.

So is the filter! It must be mounted to the low presure side.

Question - is this a factory or aftermarket cooler? I would track down the GM parts for a factroy cooler. It works well, and I suspect new hoses would be nearly required at this time.

do you have the factory service manual? If not, PM me your address... I have it on CD. That should help you get the answer you need.

the hail storm damaged my clear top... but the insurance company bought me a new one.

audio is so very subjective....

however, a few thoughts...

The corvette interior is VERY small... so lots of speakers are not the solution. In my 1992 coupe, I have a pair of Canton RS3s (three way separates) a single 10" JL Audio 10W3V2 and a JL Audio 500/5 5 channel amp. That's it.

I know, those speakers were very expensive - 10 years ago! But they still sound GREAT! So alive!!!

Another option is a pair of nice 8" subs in the rear speaker enclosures.

You see, sound is more than just bass or vocals, it's about the entire range of sound. The highs are as important as the lows.

I will post some pics of my install later on... I am tired...

I have gotten the rough draft done... I need to add pics and make sure it is right!

I am doing a TPI and LT1 version.

howdy! Welcome aboard!

Anytime a fuse blows when a component is connected correctly tells me there is a bigger problem that needs to be debugged.

OBDI engines use the info from the transmission so it knows what gear the tranny is in.

1987... there is a minor issue with the early (pre 1990) C4s... and most every car made prior to then, too... it's the fact that the SAE changed the requirements for wire composition. more accurately, wire insulation. Prior to that, heat, chemicals and time will cause the insulation to crack, chafe and pull away from connections.

I would debug the electrics... this is only the beginning.

Also, as mentioned above, there is a connector that reads info from sensors inside the gearbox. I wonder if you have some bad sensors....

to be honest, you need a Helm Manual - www.helminc.com.

either way, it will wake up an L98... adding either intake, a set of 1.6:1 roller rockers and a bit of exhaust upgrades will get you a motor very close to an LT1/LT4.

you could try hitting up the salvage yards.

Ecklers used to sell a short shift kit... but I donno if that will help.

I would like to think that an aftermarket Super T-10 shifter could be adapted to fit.

coolio!!!

more the merrier!

yea! I have been publicizing over at CF!

Did you get my email?

Quote:

the amp is only half the problem. These enclosures use a crappy paper cone. They go south in a big ugly way.

check with the various salvage yards.

www.corvettesalvage.com - Dino's

www.contemporarycorvette.com

www.vette2vette.com

Also, Paul Newman Car Creations is making new D44s.

Whatever you do, expect to pay between $1500 and $2000 for a D44 setup.

You will need the pumpkin, batwing, halfshafts (I think), driveshaft and c-beam.

Most vendors will sell you a complete setup.

welcome aboard!!!!

Great to see new folks!

The upgrades sound awesome! However, I would add an x-pipe to that exhaust. "true duals" rob you of power for the sake of sound.

this is when I bite the bullet and take the car off the road for a few days...

those oil leaks make me ill... they smell soooo rank!!!

times they are a change'n.

More to come. :D

upgrading the bose systems is best done in totality, not bit by bit.

A few thoughts:

1) I hate that head unit. It's old school.

2) 45 watts is chump change. Most heads don't have enough power to work a coax, let alone an entire system.

3) gut the entire factory system. Install nice drivers up front, and 2 8" subs in the rear speaker enclosures. Get a nice 2 channel amp for the front and a nice mono amp for the subs.

4) I like alpine and eclipse for head units. I prefer sound over a perfect fit.

it's actually in process. I hope to have it done shortly!

We just got our 200th member!!!!

TimVSR!!! Welcome Aboard!!!!

welcome aboard!!!

As you can see, traffic is a bit slow here... but we are working on that.

I woulda thought there was a screw on the bottom to hold the internals inside. However, I have never had a problem with my mirrors.

I will check my Helms manual and post again later on (tomorrow afternoon).

a.

if I remember my tire math correctly, the key is section width.

I am pretty sure the max is a 295... but a 275 is better.

I would run the tire size though the tire racks website and see what it says.

you all but need, nay require, an xpipe. It will help with the drone.

it will also help with performance.

I agree with that!!! Hail SUCKS!!! I got caught in a hail storm about 3 years ago... what a mess that was...

after 38 years of winters, I am allowed!!!

glad you like!!!

Way to go!!! However, you have a little ways to go to catch up with me. :D

I am nearing 139k!!!

no, that's the problem.

The LS1 is not a simple "bolt in". It requires special motor mounts and other custom tricks.

I am leaning more and more towards an LT1 for her car and doing an LS1 or something for mine when the time comes - and so does the cash.

oh, cool!!!

wecome aboard!

I am still debating the LS1 or an LT1... in this case, either is a huge improvement, and an LT1 would be cheaper.

what failed? Hydrocarbons? EGR? CO2?

On one your vintage, it could be cats... my bigger concern, with PA, is that the engine didn't get hot enough to pass.

I would dump a bottle of "Smog Chek" into the tank and be done with it.