You can do it, Ive used an HVLP gun before, they are great. Once miced the paint in that little cup goes further than you think it will. Mix each batch the same it will come out the same. The one I used was a middle of the road (not expensive, not the cheapest but erring on the cheaper side) and I was suprised how good it came out.
Take your time....If you have to have someone that really knows paint give you the rundown on mixing...I understand outside temps can change things. Had to have someone help me dothe mixing and gove me a few quick tips on spraying. Do it.

Qack!!

You aren't helping me at all. You are supposed to tell me just what I want to hear and forget about all those facts you keep posting.

My self esteem has dropped dramatically and My Sliver Metallic car is not getting painted in my garage.....and it is all your fault!!

What about using a "Mity Vac" Vacuum pump? I had read somewhere that this makes it pretty easy. Hook up the hose to the end of the bleeder, open the bleeder and pump the fluid into the bottle close the bleeder, move to the next caliper, repeat, unitl all four are done. Am I missing something here?

This is one of the little jobs that I am planning for this winter, I bought a Mity Vac and Ford Blue brake fluid.

Bogus the article couldn't come at a better time.

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Hey Case, I'm not sure I understand what you're saying here. C12 is no codes stored in the CCM but if you have a code in any module the C12 won't show up.

It does on mine, C12 shows there is no DTCs present in the CCM module (module 1). The other modules are only displayed through the CCM (module 4 being ECM, module 9 being ASR/ABS, and module A being air bag).

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If you got 3 dashes in 9.7, you cleared it. If you leave the paperclip in and turn the key off, then back on. You should see C-12 first, then it will cycle thru 1.0, 4.0 and 9.0, and should show 3 dashes at each one.

I don't think starting the car is necessary for this particular problem.
Unhooking the battery probably won't change anything but it's worth a shot.

Starting the car wont do anything for it. C12 is only related to the CCM, its got no relation with the other 3 modules.

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Yep, youve gotta do all that, and id have to say, if the codes were cleared, when the vehicle is started the MIL lamps should all go out, including the ABS and ASR lamps until you reach the 3mph test, if they are not going out, id say youve got some sort of a short to ground in there, or other electrical issue.

Couple of things:

1) I'm aware of the fact that there are a number of things that could cause the code to be thrown, but if I know where to look for the "valve solenoid" then I could maybe trace down a faulty wire or bad ground somewhere.

2) Maybe I'm not erasing the code the right way. I'm pretty sure I went to 9.7, got it to show three dashes, but then I turned the car off and pulled the paperclip out. Should I start the car after getting the dashes? Or what do you mean but "other electrical issue"?

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On the 92, almost everything will show up as an "H" except tha C12 (no codes). I think this happens when you shut off the key and any codes get stored.

In module 9, the H63 is Valve Solenoid Relay Fault ( Valve Solenoid Circuit Error on Andy's sheet, same thing).
Yep, looks like that will trigger the ASR/ABS lites.
When the ign is on, this realy provides voltage to activete the solenoids and provides a ground path for the "service abs" lamp.
Service ABS and service ASR lites will be on and a code 63 will be set when the Valve Solenoid relay voltage falls to less that 5 volts.

I'd first try and reset that code, go to 9.7 to reset, and see if it comes back and the lites go out.

If not, BURN the Chilton. The diagnosis is on page 5E1-82 in the real manual.

BTW, I want your wheels for my Black Rose.

Thanks for the info. Like I said, I'm pretty sure I deleted the code the first time around, and the lights never went off. When I did the check again, the code either came back or was still there. Where is this Valve Solenoid at if I need to change it?

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Where is this Valve Solenoid at if I need to change it?

You will never know if it is defective, unless you TEST it. Otherwise, all you are doing is throwing money and parts at the problem in hopes that the "shot gun" method will end up hitting something. A code identifies the circuit or sensor that sent a "bad" or out of parameter reading. It does not state the cause of that bad reading. After the code is identified, you must diagnose the cause of the code. Take an O2 for instance. If you get a code that reports a rich mixture, does that mean the O2 is bad? Or does it mean that because of some, yet to be discovered problem, that there really WAS a rich mixture. The same is true, especially, of codes pertaining to the EGR valve. Seldom, when there is an EGR code, is the EGR valve the cause. The [color=blue:906514afca]FSM[/color:906514afca] tells how to extract the codes, what circuit or device each code is related to, and most importantly, a trouble shooting chart to help you diagnose and track down the CAUSE of the problem, minimizing the expense of unneeded parts. The book isn't cheap, but depending on the job and the potential for false diagnoses, it can pay for itself in one job. Plus it has a lot of neat reading where you can learn a lot about how the systems in your car work.

RACE ON!!!

By insulated exhaust, I mean just a small bathroom ceiling fan, controlled by a thermostat, mounted inside the enclosure, and the exhaust should not be a straight shot or it will leak too much noise. You can install sound baffles in the duct or just route it with a few changes of direction between your enclosure and the outside. Lined duct helps too, or even just a drywall chase with duct liner screwed to it.

And pull the fresh air from inside the workspace, again, a few changes of direction keeps it quieter.

And of course the compressor should be isolated properly from the ground.

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My 67 Coupe's only a measily 300 horse smallblock.
But I bought it for $3,000.

That be good enough for me!! I'd still be out in the garage every day lookin' at that baby.
Your descritpion needs photos too, I might add!

Glad you got one!

I have an oiled, belt driven 110 compressor. It was the biggest 110 I could find. It's quieter than most of your options but still not all that quiet, if I ran it late at night inside my garage it would surely get the neighbors attention. I could probably help it with a muffler. When I build a shop it's going inside an insulated closet with an insulated exhaust fan.

When comparing, look at the dB ratings if they're published. Some brands make it a point to make their compressors quiet.

I have a full set of 18Volt Dewalt cordless. They're pretty common and there's a ton of different tools offered to change your batteries between.

Their hammer drill is a real nice piece! Makes every other cordless I've had feel like a toy.

They also have 30V ones now, but that seemed like overkill for what I need.

on my 92, I don't think the hatch lights ever go off.

As an aside, if you leave your turn signals on, after about 1 miles, the headlight bonger will alert you.