Horsepower/engine options are also something to look at in a C3 selection.

62 is one of my favorite body styles. Older nose, newer butt. vert of course.

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If they drive a Corvette, they should be welcomed.

Some of them might need to check their egos at the door though.

Since I'm installing Hooker Shorties, I figured I could get away with wire wheeling the old bolts and using them to install the headers. Well, it appears that the bolts have a shoulder and skirt around them that prevent seating the bolt next to the header tube.

What bolts should I use? Do I have to grind the shoulders off all these bolts? That would suck. Some of the bolts have both ends threaded to secure accessories too.

Any suggestions from you wise exhaust gurus?

I'd love to have a late C1 with the tooth grille.

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:me2:

But this place is building steam.

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Exactly the reason I don't belong to a Corvette "Club"!
I do go to car shows, and try to make sure my Car holds it's own. But I bought it to drive, and the wife and I do plenty of that.

I also do the Power Tour every year. Now there is a crowd most of you would enjoy. They are true car guys.

Screw that having to have matching Corvette hats and shirts shit, and sitting around talking about the latest club fund raiser.

I get bashed on a fairly regular basis by the NCRS "correct" crowd. I've got the factory L-88 flares on my '69- right over the GM parts counter in '71- and none of them will accept that. I've still got the Chevy HP parts book that lists them, along with a bunch of part numbers for the parts from GM back in those days.

You got it. That's the birdcage. Another place to look is right behind the doors where the frame turns up to go over the rear wheels, known as the "kickup". Brut has already mentioned this. Stand back and look at how the car sets. Does it just look straight and square? Or does it strike you as setting a little off?

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Thats the one I was thinking about If those fukkr's at brand X hadn't locked me out, I had it saved in my subscribed threads

Andy, do you have a link for the Motown blocks?

Thanks for the info. This was one of the things that make you go hhhmmmmmmm around my house. At least now I know why.

Truly sad. I hate when that happens.

Wow, bunch of awesome C3s, love the big flairs, wide meats and sidepipes.

To the one with the caged car, is that a DN 5 spd?
Is the driveshaft angle causing ou any issue?

Motown blocks now makes an LSx block with the bosses to fit to a SBC engine compartment.

My '69. Work in progress. There have been a few changes since this picture. New wheels and tires, new headers. A new picture is not too compatible with the snow and ice that's on the ground right now. i'll update when the world thaws out..

I think Trey over at Speed Hound Sells a set of adapter plates from this conversion cheap; and other stuff too.

DG

I know what you mean... This is where the new tech really does rock, but the added complexity means that simple doesn't do it anymore.

that's cool stuff.

Thankfully, both of our vettes have 1 piece rear mains... but they still weap after a while...

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Guys, I am really sorry for the annoyingly long post. I try not to come on here to bitch, but this just ticked me off so much I had to vent. Thanks for actually taking the time to read my post, its much appreciated. I hope if anyone uses this company in the future they don't have the same experience.

Dan

I guess I'll start this one off. Chevy has had lots of problems with rear mains leaking since day one. I did many years working as a heavy line tech in several dealers. from axles to tranmissions to engines, with an occasional "fix those lights/gauges/windows/whatever" thrown in. Anyway, here's a good fix for the 2 piece rear main seals on small blocks and big blocks. There are a couple different seals for the SB as I describe in the following. Not sure about the BB's 100%..

Once you have the pan down, remove the oil pump and pickup. Remove the rear main cap. The lower half of the seal is right there. Don't scratch the bearing. Take a small screwdriver and pop the lower half out of the cap, then use the screwdriver, (I have one that I did a little bit of grinding on so it's got a better flat end) and push on the exposed end of the upper half of the seal. You may hve to tap it a little bit to break the upper seal loose. Drive it out until you can get a good grip on it and then just walk it on out. Now the old seal is out, clean the block and the seal groove with something like brake cleaner, just hose it out really well.

The trick part is next. GM and the aftermarket have 3 different widths of rear seals. The difference in them is from the dust lip on the back to the wiper lip on the forward side of the seal. The best (and widest one) is the one you need to find. The biggest distance between the two lips. You may have to hunt for it. GM had them all under the same part number, but there are different ones.


Take the rear main cap to your bench grinder and use the wire wheel on the mating surfaces adjacent to the seal. Don't get so far forward to catch the bearing. Buff the cap, get it really clean. Then hose it down with the brake cleaner too. Let it dry while you install the upper half of the seal.

In the package there is a little plastic "spoon". Use it to install BOTH the upper and lower halves. Put a little bit of grease on the lips of the upper seal. If you don't, the rib on the inside of the seal gets sliced off and will seep underneath the seal.

Once you have the lower seal in place, wipe a little bit of grease on the lips of that seal too. Apply a very thin coat of form-a-gasket or an anerobic sealer or something like that on the cap next to the seal. Just above the pan gasket groove. Install the cap, torque to specs and install the oil pump, and pan.

I've done literally hundreds of rear main seals over 15+ years of working for Chevy dealers and NEVER had to do the same one twice.

I hope this helps and I also hope I didn't confuse the issue for you. If you have any questions, just drop me a note..

You're welcome.

Here are the install instructions if I haven't sent them to you yet.

http://pnwzr1.com/brake_install.htm

it was a typo can we get back to the point?

Jeff,

Got the brackets today... they look good... thanks alot,
Dan

Good job!
Now do an extensive write up on it and post it in the tech section, I may be doing it myself.

Yeah, this battery is good. I ended up getting some bolts from my dad that have a better connection to charge with and they weren't trying to charge while on car. I'm excited cause I think this was my problem to begin with. We'll see though, don't want to get my hopes up too much.

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"up to date info???" Who is he fooling? Oil tech changes so slowly, it is measured by the decade.

Agreed... CC is the man with this conversion. He has all the parts listed.

Makes it a one day job because he did the months of leg work to fit it right.

welcome!

A lot depends on the source of the engine/transmission. The transmission has to fit a C4, and if it came from a Camaro, it won't fit easily.

There are brackets, but it's just a nasty project.

The hydraulics are a bit troubling, but once working are pretty reliable.

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absolutely.

The discussion about illegal acts is not in it's own right illegal, it's the discussion about DOING THEM.

There are other fine lines, basically, there is no such thing as "free speach." Simply because any discussion about very distasteful things is just not good.

I mean, if there is a news report about child porn, that's a thing to discuss, but to discuss the merits of child porn, no thanks. locked.

To discuss the merits of street racing is silly, there are none, but at least the subject isn't as repuslive as child porn... follow?

I know it's a double standard, that's true... but it's one I can live with.

Bogus, I hate what you are describing. I hate worse the fact that I have to spend $200-$380 just to fix some shit that we had worked out just fine in 1950

Do you all have one over that you actually like?

We have a few here in Australia, all dull as ditch water, however, there was one back in the 80s that was great to watch, and watching the bloopers of his out takes is even better

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgRUUWrHPPw&feature=related

Saw an 89 coupe with a banged up hood... the driver of the Vette had rearended someone... I am figuring $4k worth of damage. The left headlight was broken out completely.

My mom's cable isn't that bad. No box, just a coax coming in the wall.

hm... I wonder if switching it to mono would help.

I will suggest it tomorrow. Won't hurt one bit if it does.

Thanks for the tips... I already started the cheap surround sound setup, but she is one stubborn old bird and will fight it tooth and nail.

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I don't know if anyone is quite sure how he is. Mean, nasty disposition etc.

Recently kicked off CF........so don't piss him off.

He's got the best information I have ever seen on the swap you desire.

It's one thing to say: It's a bad idea, don't do it.
It's another thing to make it illegal to talk about.

The same here

here comes the thread of the week.

Hey welcome....

Yesterday I coudn't even spell truck driver and today I R 1

J/K

Gary

yeah i am. how is central coster lol.

Welcome to the forums!

Can't offer any assistance on the swap, but I bet you'll get some answers here!

Are you the guy who posted on CF?
I'm the one who told you to come here and ask for Central Coaster.

I HATE IT. how much is a 6 speed tranny and how hard would it be to put on myself? (1988)


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ok so the reason i hate the 4+3 is because it needs a whole new rebuild all the gears and everything.

so i have two options do a 4+3 rebuild or put a zf6 in the car.

im selling my camaro for 3800 so i have about 4500 to put into the corvette. I need almost all new interior that will cost me about 1 grand. and ill probably need to put around 500-1000$ into the engine(maybe thats just a complete guess out of no where) my question for you is it worth putting the zf6 in there or should i just rebuilt the 4+3.

putting a zf6 is about 2000$ and doing a rebuild probably 1200$

anyone like the zf6 better then the 4+3 or like the 4+3 better then the zf6.

(also ive got a friend with a 5.0 mustang that thinks he is hot ****. is the zf6 faster so i can blow his 5.0 away)

90's rock !!! Welcome I too am battling electric gremlins. I'm ready to help.

I see where the groups are.

Someone send me the Group Id# and password.

I peek over there ocassionally. The topic "synthetic vs covnrtional oil" still is going. Even has banned members post from wayyy back. I throw the "ole beating a dead horse" emotion at them and this guy replies " I just wanted up to date info" That made me think "what am I doing over here?" Welcome smack123 glad you came over.

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I've got my e-mail exposed so I'm willing to look at your suggestions :toothy8:

Gary

ok so i just bought a 1988 corvette. This is my first vette and i love it. but the thing that i HATE HATE HATE is the hydrolic clutch and the 4+3 transmission. i found a lt1 corvette engine with a 6 speed transmission for 1600 could probly talk him down to like 1400. do you think this is a good deal to do and if i did it how much could i sell my L98 and 4+3 for? also is it easy to change the hydrolic clutch! i cant stand the thing.


post for the lt1 http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/583575143.html

Do we need the other Gens over here?

Pics
http://community.webshots.com/album/562579956ZMxBZm