Hey Bogus, MAF was replaced 11 years ago when I bought the car. No problems at all when code appears. Last time I looked at MAF was 2 months ago and it was perfectly clean. But I wasn't trying to hijack this thread, thanks for asking.

Joel

Hey Dan, well I started to try to help on this problem. I also have a 89, and I have been screwing with this same code #36 for awhile. I thought it was fixed until today after driving the car some. Thought wrong! I have replaced relays, checked wiring, did all the FSM says and this code still keeps coming back. I must be over looking something. Sorry I couldn't help, I'll keep looking and if I do find the problem I'll let you know.

Joel

Good morning. Weather here in Ga today real good, sunshine and mid 70's. Guess I'll replace the battery in my 89 this morning. 40 months on a 84 month AC delco does not impress me much. Have a good one.

Joel

Hope the wife gets better real soon tommy.
My day started good, went to the local scrap yard and got 40 bucks for a old washing machine, lawn mower and one brake drum. Two hrs later driving home with my wife from the tax man the left rear tire on the Grand Prix blows out. Tires were 1 wk old with 42 miles on them. So, spent the afternoon at the tire shop. Up-graded on all four, hope these are better. Shouldn't have bought the cheapies.

Joel

Finally! got the solid green light on the tender. Yea, the thing that was screwing with my head was my regular battery charger was indicating a "full" charge. This was prior to using the tender, looks like this 20 yr old charger is getting a little lazy. But as if now, all looks good! Thanks for the replies.

Joel

I'm just going to leave to hooked up all night and hope for the green by morning. I just can not get comfortable with leaving an electrical "device" plugged in and running all night. Old school thinking. Thanks

Joel

I finally bought a battery tender yesterday. Hooked it up to what I thought was a fully charged battery in my 89. Left it on for about 4 hrs., red light on steady. Disconnected it and re-connected today so far for 8 hrs. Red light still on steady. My concern: is this normal? I just thought with a well charged battery this tender would have gone to the next mode by now. Possibly this battery wasn't as fully charged as I thought. Any thoughts from you guys that use a battery tender? Thanks

Joel

A REAL good friend considering the work that went into that! Nice job.

Joel

Good morning guys, just saying hello. Finally able to log in again and do some catch-up. Have a good day!

Joel

I agree, keep it going. I don't post as much as I should some times but it is a nice thread to read everyday. Looks like a good week end weather wise for us Southern guys. Have a good day.

Joel

All the info given above this post is very good and to the point. My only suggestions would be: 1. Be sure you don't create a "static" charge when you are changing the ECM or PROM. Ground yourself first to any metal inside the car. 2. If the PROM number will match your's, you might want to consider to just try it first. 3. Take a GOOD look at the positioning of the PROM before you remove it. From what i've read they can be installed wrong. Good luck

Joel

Just a quick update on this issue. I purchased a newer scanner for OBDII several weeks ago,along with a OBDI adaptor cable. Well, I hooked this one up today and guess what I saw! MAT sensor reading 54*. I ran the engine a few minutes and the reading did start to climb just as it should. No morale to this story, just wanted to close this problem. Seems like nothing can be trusted 100% when dealing with electrical. That's what I get for bragging about my "old" scanner!

Joel

Good morning. Hope all is well. I agree with you guys on that silly azz thread. I could care less what some one else thinks about a car of mine. I drive and own what I want. That's about all the wasted brain cells I'm using on that subject.

Joel

Good news. Just getting started is ususally the hard part! What brand pump did you go with?

Joel

Same name on all.

Joel

Could't see anything? Must be me. This 10 yr old computer not the best.

Joel

Good morning

Looks like it's going to rain for the next few days around here. but we do need it bad. Have a good day!

Joel

Yea, a drill bit will do some damage! I usually use a small rubber "bumper" to act as a "stop" when I'm drilling on something with a critical depth issue. I use a small hood/deck lid adjustment bumper and cut to length and just drill thru it. Leave it on the bit, and this has saved me a few times of going too deep.

Joel

What brand of window seals did you buy? I'm going to replace these on my 89 in the next month or so also. Figured I would do that when the door panels are removed for front speaker/amp repair.

Joel

You are a good man, my hat's off to ya.

Joel

Good morning. Another nice day in Ga. Need to rake some leaves and do some work.

Joel

Just a thought on the coolant temp sensor. While you're in that deep, might want to consider a new one just for preventive maint. if it hasn't been changed lately. I assume a 84 has one in the same location as 89?

Joel

First chance I've had today to read thru any posts. Hope that bad weather that came thru on Sunday didn't hit any of you folks.

Joel

I'll give you the standard answer for the low coolant problem: Burp the coolant system. This is usually the problem.

Joel

Good morning guys, a good day here weather wise. Finally finished those intake gaskets on the GP. Used to get more done before retirement! I really need to go for a ride in my 89 today, need to BAD. Have a good day

Joel

That is good news. My wife had back surgery last year, it's a slow process to recover from. Good luck and here's to a speedy recovery.

Joel

Congrats! I'm sure it was a lot of hard work.

Joel

Hello and welcome. What part of Georgia are you in?

Joel

Hey guys, looks like a good day weather wise in my neck of the woods. Started that little project of replacing intake gaskets on my GP yesterday. Finally got off my lazy butt and got 1/2 thru. have a good day.

Joel

Enjoy them every day, all day long! One day you'll wake up and all of a sudden they're grown.

Joel

Any rain you guys don't want shove it my way! We've had some lately but need a lot more soon.

Joel

That's good news! No problem,right? Just curious how many feet of wire did you use?

Joel

Do you have the window sticker for the car? If I'm not mistaked the build sequence number is in the top right corner just under the VIN number. This should be a 5-7 digit number depending on when car was built. If not sometimes a build sheet was left in the car from an employe installing seats(under side cushion), possibly stuffed up in the dah area, or under the carpet. Sometimes the build number was hand written on the inside of bumpers, gas tank, under console for purpose of scheduling.

Joel

There is no slag with a wire weld. That is only with a "stick electrode".

Joel

Hold the gun away from any metal and pull the trigger. What you're looking for is a good steady stream of wire coming out of tip. If not the tip can be removed and cleaned. I assume this is a 110 buzz box with the small roll of wire? Cost should be around $30.00 there, not sure as I get mine from a welding supply house. Just don't expect a smooth area around the weld with the flux wire. There will be a little splatter from this type of wire.

Joel

Not certified but a lot of years doing it. First, the wire speed and heat range go hand-in-hand. Speed too slow and wire will pop-pop-pop-pop-pop when you weld. Speed too fast and the wire will pile up and try to "push" back on the gun. Hold your tip approx. 1/16 from metal and try that, also angle at about 20* with weld puddle behind direction of travel. I'm sure ther are different opinions on the method. This is one broad one. Are you welding flat or vertical? Good luck

Joel

I agree with bogus 100% on removing t-stat and filling engine with coolant. This is how I have always re-filled a dry engine, too easy to damage heads or head gaskets if not done. Only other tip I'v got is to pour coolant in slowly and allow trapped air to bubble out. Will still have to be burped but this does help when I do mine.

Joel

I agree with your definition.

Joel

Yea, same here in Ga on the winter catching up. I'm going to try and get motivated to replace the intake gaskets on my DD 95 GP. That Florida show seems like a much better idea.

Joel

That is a nerve racking job drilling on a new set of heads! Good info.

Joel

Almost too nice to cover that up with a body.

Joel

I don't know for 100%, but the FSM for a 89 does show one in the componet location section.

Joel

Had not thought of these in a while: 1952 chevy club coupe with 327,3 soeed in floor and olds rear end in high school. then a 1964 Impala SS 327 4 speed, red with white int. A couple of 55's with good strong 327's and 4 speed. In 1972 bought 1st vette: 1967 vert, big block and 4 speed. Sold to buy new 1974 GP. Got married and that stopped toys for a while. Mid 70's got a 1967 Chevelle SS 396 auto., gold with gold int. What a nice car that was. 1982 bought a 1968 C3 vert 327, 4 speed. Still have it. But my favorite is still the 1989 coupe I have now. There were more, but enough of my rambling.

Joel

That is correct on the clamp being the ground.

Joel

Thought this might help some body, some time. My 89 had a "itchy" tach reading, not being really steady. I finally found a diagram clearly showing the tach filter had to have a ground. I did not know this, so I re-grounded my today and it solved the problem.

Joel

Welcome! Looks like this is the place to be.

Joel

Well done! Congrats

Joel

On the Resto. forum

Joel

Please do not even mention ICE.

Joel

After years of F-body and early vettes, I finally learned to stop at what I thought was half-way into a parking space. Still scrub once in awhile.

Joel