That's very useful information. Thank you.
Still reading through it, but right away I see I have to be careful which speedometer I choose.

Either a programmable or a GPS-calibrated speedometer would be best. That might cut down my choices quite a bit.

It might not be possible to save the electronic vitals gauges in the center. I don't know until I get into it. If I can, they don't bother me so much. But it might look better if I went entirely analog with my gauges.

The article mentions harming resale value.
...On a $4000 car? What resale value?

I test drove my '88 and I was impressed enough by the performance modifications that I offered 4 grand, and they took it! And aside from a few minor repairs, it's been the best performance deal I've ever made.
Second best was a '68 Firebird I paid $6500 for.

Thanks.
The temptation is very strong to put a 327 back in it, warmed up with modern technology. AND...it would be closer to correct, plus much simpler to build.

Still thinking.
The main thing is, it has to be reliable since my daughter's getting the car.

No I'm not crazy.
But I am getting closer to retirement and I'm starting to want to give away my old cars to my kids.

My '68 Corvette convertible was born as a 327 300 hp car, with 3.36 gears and a Muncie 4-speed.
But the original engine was long gone.
The story goes that the motor blew when the car was about 6 years old, and then it was parked beside a barn where it sat for many years.

I bought it and restored it. Not having the original engine, I built a monster 427 race engine for it, throwing every trick and modern technology at it, no cost spared.
And it is as quick as it is dangerous.

I want to give the car to my daughter, but I don't want to give her a death trap. So I'm selling the insane 427 and I want to go back to a small block.

I could build up a generation I 327, but improve performance over original. If I could find a date-correct 327, it would be better.

But what about an LS motor? There is an LS version of a "327", which is run in Silverado's and is very powerful. I had a 5.3 in a late model Silverado and it was very quick for a 5000 pound truck.

What needs to be changed to fit an LS in a C3, if I were to go that route?
Cutting or modifying the frame is NOT an option. If that's what it takes, I won't go there.

I noticed the same thing on mine. It gets really hot where I live, and I had some concerns watching the temp climb when it was 106 outside. So I ordered a larger aluminum radiator and dove into pulling the old one.
Also, the old one was leaking at the tanks.

All of the crap in the bottom was probably one reason why the radiator wasn't performing as it should. The dripping at the plastic tanks was another. And the hot Texas weather was another reason still.

It runs a lot cooler, but if you get a thicker radiator, you have to modify the shroud. It's made for the thinner OEM style.

Hey folks. Sorry this is long.
I admit I haven't been on here too much in the past. But I've been missing tech talk in my other forum. All the tech guys have left. I guess I need to get my gearhead fix elsewhere...such as here.

Anyway, Life has been nuts the last 4 or 5 years, and is finally settling down.

I picked up a 1988 Corvette. Pretty, and had some nice mods, but suffered from a bad previous owner.
We have no smog test where I live. So the smog pump is gone. A true dual exhaust with no cats runs back to a pair of Flowmaster 40 series Loud-as-heck mufflers...but I like it.
It's got a foil, and someone in the past knew what they were doing when they ported the upper plenum. The front screen is in place on the MAF, but the rear screen has been cut out. And, it has a chip, but I don't know exactly what kind.

It has C5 Z06 wheels, and the car is white. It's quick off the line, but I'm planning a 383 for it.
Just because...a car optimized for torque is better off with a torque engine, instead of spending thousands trying to get the TPI to breath another 1000 rpm.

The only think I don't like is the Star Trek Enterprise gauges. They look completely tacky to me. I do kind of like the center info-gauges. They're handy. But I don't like the digital and bar graph tach and speedo.

Lately I've been wanting to change the gauges, and either go with a totally custom dash panel, and analog gauges. However, I might just want to keep the center info-gauges that show all the vital signs, and only change out the tack and speedometer.

So my question is, is that possible?
Or do I need to replace all of them if I do that?

Much as I'd love to buy a Steeroids, I'm going to have to do some restoration on my stock system to get me by for now. It's leaky and it's vague. But restoring it would be cheaper than a steeroids for the time being. Just top it off, right? Yeah, well, that worked until the leak got bad enough that I hear it groan after only 20 miles of driving.

It looks like a great set up, but with a 68 Firebird restoration going on right now, I'll have to live with my stock steering before I can justify the cost of the Steeroids. Eventually I will. I've promised myself.

I am 6' tall and I drive a 1968 C3 Convertible with stock seats. I drive with my seat all the way back, and I fit. However, I find the foot well to be very cramped in a C3. For example, I have to actually keep in mind what footwear I am wearing. I cannot wear flip flops in the summer because they'll get caught in the wiring underneath the dash when I push on the pedals. Kind of a weird problem, but there you go.

I do have an aftermarket Grant steering wheel though. It's smaller in diameter than the original, and that does help. You should consider that if you're better than 6' tall. They also look a lot nicer. Mine is mahogany with polished aluminum spokes and it's gorgeous in my dark orange interior.

That is a very impress level of power for a 9:1 compression motor! Very good work.

There was some mention of compression ratio, having huge gains to a bump of half a point in compression or so. There would be some gains, but I don't think it would be huge. And I think you could get that with just a swap to a steel shim head gasket probably.

I think being able to obtain that horsepower goal without having to buy the expensive gas is a very good idea. Good job!

I am sorry to hear about all of your troubles. But what I would prefer to see in the case of an oil cooler is some really good AN-fittings and hard lines whenever possible. You want to really make it fool proof.

I had an oil cooler on my 427 also, but ended up taking it off because it was cooling my engine too much. I had a really large custom radiator that more than did the job. If you need better cooling, maybe consider a better radiator and forget about the oil cooler. Because what you've experienced is the old rule of thumb that if you increase complexity, you also add another variable that can go wrong.

Anyway, good luck putting your Vette back together.

Thanks folks!
It's nice to be here.

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Please don't be jealous.
I bought all of these cars when they were still cheap, and then spent at least a decade worth of annual bonusses rebuilding them. So what you see is accomplished over a lot of years. Anyone can do it.

I've had a few others in the past. A 350 TPI IROC-Z, and a Dodge Shelby Charger. The IROC began to rust out. The Shelby was just too much of a lemon and I finally parked it. I've given it to my son to see if he wants to do something with it.

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Actually just literally at the border between Texas and New Mexico on the wrong side (New Mexico), right inbetween Amarillo and Lubbock.

Yeah, I like all hotrods. I am not limited to just Corvettes.

Your turning radius got larger?
Did it get any less quick, or is the steering as quick or quicker?
Also it's still a mess on rutted roads?

How much is a Steeroids unit costing now, by the way?

Then that's better than the ones here. The Studes here need complete restorations and I doubt if they even run. But let me know if there's any interest.

Thanks Letty...this does look like a great forum.

As requested, here are a few pics...

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We have a couple of Studebaker fat fendered trucks where I live, from the 50's (possibly the late 40's). They are for sale.
If you are interested, please let me know and I can get pictures to you, phone number of the seller, etc.
Also a few Ford trucks, Chevy, GMC.

At the request of a good friend of mine, I have registered and joined this forum. She knows that I like to talk hotrodding and our old forum lost its only other techy type...so I've had no one to mix it up with when I feel like geeking out about engines, racing, performance, hotrods, etc.

So thank you to Letty for introducing this forum to me, and I hope I meet a lot of new friends.

I have the following cars:

1. 1968 Corvette convertible. 630 hp 427 all-out race engine (which I drive on the street...because I can). Muncie M21 close ratio and 3.36 rear gears. (Yes I want to upgrade to an M22 Rock Crusher before I blow up the M21, but I'll leave the 3.36 because I like the top end).
2. 1968 Pontiac Firebird coupe. 465 hp 465 ci Pontiac engine (estimated power). TH400 auto, 3.08 rear. Just a real nice musclecar to cruise around in.
3. 1952 GMC 3/4 ton pickup. 283 V8 Chevy small block in front of the original SM420 4-speed. Dana 60 rear with 3.50 gears and upgraded cooling and brakes. This is my daily driver.
4. 2002 Pontiac Grand Am. But who cares about that, that's the wife's car.