Thanks to all that have responded............The car is SOLD!!

Ultraman and Engine Doctor,.......thank you for the compliments !!
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Andy,
I never forgot when I was first got started with the vette and you helped .....Thank You!
so here you go, and for you bro' a couple shots of the "new" project:

on the way back home !!


NHRA certified 7.50 chasis:











and next year it will be injected and on the hose !!!

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Yeah I know never thought I would sell either, but decided to go in a different direction.
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Thanks....me too
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No hemi, somewhat of a different direction this time around, big inch Chevy pump gas motor in a 69 tubbed chassis camaro.
Thanks for the compliments guys......whoever ends up buying this car will be getting a really good car.

This is a 1990 coupe that came with all options including both roof panels. The car currently has 66,000 original miles on the body, and was purchased in 2004. The car had two previous owners, both of which had worked at the GM tech. center. This car has never seen rain snow etc. from the start and has been garage kept with a cover for its entire life. All maintenance records, original factory window sticker, build sheet, owner’s manual (including owners package, cassette, vcr), and helms manuals were provided from the previous owners. In addition I have all the bills/receipts since I have owned the car, which will all be given to the new owner. I am selling the car because I have a new toy/project and just don’t want to keep up with two cars, and need the additional garage space.
Drive train:
This is a 396c.i. built by T.P.I.S. It has a studded 4 bolt GM block, which was align honed and bored .030 over. It uses a forged Callies crank, Comp star rods, forged SRP 16cc dished pistons, Custom billet core T.P.I.S. cam 236/242 @50 with 610 lift., Melling select pump and a Canton road race pan. Cylinder heads are AFR 190 comp port (older version, with ti retainers, and Comp Cams 1.6 ratio pro mags.) that flow 286@.600, with a matched mini ram, billet T.P.I.S. 58 throttle body, 36 # injectors, Stewart stage II water pump, March under drive pulleys using all ARP fasteners. It was dynod at T.P.I.S and produced 547hp @ 6300 rpm on a conservative tune. I have all dyno sheets, flow sheets and blueprint file for the build.
Transmission is a 700r that has been completely modified to support approx. 700+ hp. and has a Pete Kane 2800 converter with ATI, sfi flex plate, and ARP fasteners.
The Dana 44 is an Exotic Muscle “Gladiator” that was actually built by Tom’s differentials, and comes with a 4:10 gear. The drive shaft and half shafts were all balanced and spun to 7500 rpm by DynoTech Engineering and have new solid spicers.
The exhaust uses Hooker Super Comp headers (ceramic coated), and a modified all stainless and welded Random Tech exhaust. It utilizes 3 “tube from the collector and “X”, it then necks down to 2 ½” with stainless straight through Magna Flow mufflers and OEM lt-1/4 tips
The intake, fuel rails, water neck, alternator, pulleys, transmission case, trans. pan, oil pan, inspection cover, C-beam, beam plates, batwing and drive shaft/half shafts have all been powder coated. All plumbing parts for motor and transmission are Earl’s flex 350 with Black anodized ends. N20, and fuel/ brake lines are all Teflon core Earl’s hose. It also has a Dewitts Radiator, and external trans. cooler.
I have QA-1’S (single adjustable) on the front and Van Steel coil over package on the rear. All hub bearing assemblies have been replaced with all new OEM parts along with all tie rod ends. The brakes are all brand new OEM parts along with Hawk pads, Earl’s braided lines and Valvoline dot 4 type synthetic fluid. The wheels are billet specialties (powder coated) 4x15 and 10x15 rears with MT Sportsman series fronts and MT dot Drag radials (295/55/15, 27.2 x 10) that have less than 1000 miles. The entire drive train, including: brakes etc., suspension, starter, alternator have less than 3,200 miles !!
The interior is original with ZR-1 cluster (8K tach), raptor shift light, B&M pro mag shifter. The nitrous system has its own electrical system located in the glove box using relays and a 7 circuit Painless fuse panel for switched power. The bottle temp gauge (for the heater/blanket) and switches are in the cup holder with the N20 controller located in the center consol. All new wiring uses TXL wire, relays, appropriate wire size, weather packs (where needed) and all connections are silver soldered and shrink wrapped. None of the stock wiring has been adulterated in any way to run any of the add-ons on the car. If someone chose/wanted to re-install the AC, fx3 etc. all the stock wiring is intact. Headlight gear assemblies, bulbs etc. are all new, and the body is excellent, with no issues. The paint still looks great with no rock chips, lines etc. The interior is excellent plus, including the original sport seats, all trim perfect, and the car has a Kenwood receiver with 4 speakers in the original enclosures along with new OEM power antenna. ALL the weather stripping has been replaced with new OEM GM weather stripping, including window swipes.

I have ALL the original parts that I have taken off the car including wheels and tires (except the block and heads) and along with all documentation/paper work (including Helms manuals) will be given to the next owner.

This list is just off the top of my head, I’m sure I’m forgetting something’s that I have done to the car. If you are looking for one of these cars that is done right with all good parts this is the car for you …………some pics below. If there is anything in particular someone wants to see, I will send pics of any part of this car. I can tell you that it looks exactly the same in person as it does in the pics ! I am asking 25,000.or reasonable best offer. I can be contacted through email tuokaerf@yahoo.com
Thanks for looking,
mseven (Mick)

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the fsm makes it sound nice and simple right, lol
steps 1-4..of the pia
[IMG]http://i51.tinypic.com/2lvfjmv.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i53.tinypic.com/301qd08.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i56.tinypic.com/9lbujq.jpg[/IMG]
and how it looks now...my resolve, lol
[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/2yphhmc.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i52.tinypic.com/33dv620.jpg[/IMG]
and latest,
[IMG]http://i52.tinypic.com/15mmdlf.jpg[/IMG]

to me the idea of a "frame stiffener" = at least a 4-6 point roll bar welded to the chassis/frame.

Matthew,
Sounds good, the only thing I have on the calander is woodward and the NMCE at milan.
email if you get a chance, and Thanks for the invite
Mick

Thanks everyone for the kind words, it is appreciatted.
I will be out on the west side tonight working with Jon /SpectatorRacing on one of his projects. I look forward to meeting him and getting his project dialed....should be fun.

Jon, that should be a metric O ring adapter/seal 16 (0.625")or 18mm(0.708") x 1.5 thread.....double check it though.

My experience when guys swap MAF sensors is that is has an efect on the tune. In some cases the changes aren't too bad when swapping with an original OEM one, but any "rebuild" or aftermarket has been dramatic.
You can send me some data and I'll make the needed changes and whatever else you have in mind...no problem

There is no TPS re-set method as the 90-91 is non-adjustable. In this case it's use reflects % of throttle angle unlike the MAF cars (m.v. vs. fueling in some aspects).
If refering to Min Air adjust, follow the same as I posted over in Big Grizzly's thread..The reason includes your idle being higher/modified than stock threfor counts need to be approx. 40 (your scan showed 68 P/N @operating temp).

your logs show the IAC being commanded in open loop to the corresponding tables/counts v.s. temp. However once in closed loop it shows that the IAC is at 160 counts, and would be the cause of roughness and other issues you mentioned. This would mean that the throttle body blade is closed and the IAC cannot comp./add enough air. I would first remove the air horn and do a visual check of the throttle blade (to see that the blade is closed or ?) to ensure there are no issues with the IAC. More than likely you will have to re-set the min air screw so that the tb blade will be cracked open slightly(clockwise as to open the throttle blade)at idle. I would start with about 2 turns while the car is running, turn off the car and re-start so that the IAC can re-set itself. Look at the screen and keep doing the procedure until you are approx. 40 counts.

I hear ya...work keeps my mind off of thinking about the x.
This weekend is being devoted to getting my junk up and flying again....once again, another set of changes for 2011. maybe I'll even get the thing fired lol
re-check your email

voltage drops like I had seen in your first scan can be caused in a few ways. Typically it would be batt. condition or poor alternator charging. Glad you found the source from the batt. ground...I would also check the all and any of the ones from the motor swap.

From your first start-up, I mentioned to lower the counts or to turn the min. air screw clockwise as to open the throttle blade. It was reading at least 80 counts, start with 1-1/2 turns and go from there. The target at operating temp will be around 40 counts in p/n.

sorry for the late response, I've been working alot lately so I haven't had much time to look on the boards.
Mick

aside from that weld breaking, personally I would not be happy with any of the fitment.
Having a hanger at the top of the muffler case forces the muffler to hang too low. From the pics it looks like the entire system/set-up hangs a bit low.

this is how mine looked when things were still stock, hope this helps..
[IMG]http://i51.tinypic.com/fw547a.jpg[/IMG]

To me, the biggest issue with those is that everything (bin file, burner, eraser) is specific to that ecm. The bin file for those is very limited and there can be no substitutions with other files/years.
I don't remember which one I have here and really wasn't aware of the one JR posted. Because I change almost all the values it hasn't been a concern. I can look around and see if I can find that file. If so copying it and burning a chip isn't that big a deal.

BTW, car is quiet as a mouse at idle , and all stock functions work in this car including Heads Up Display.
Carlyle's car with new IRS record 7.75.
[B]vid:[/B]
[url]http://www.blip.tv/file/5117038[/url]
[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/axgmxw.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i56.tinypic.com/k18uw.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i56.tinypic.com/15x39j6.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]

yep some summit AN wrenches and regular motor oil here.
What I would add is I use a piece of 90* 1 x 1" alluminum angle from lowes. Cut yourself a couple of pieces to fit on both jaws of the vice and place a piece of duct tape on the exposed sides being used to clamp the fitting. The side of the fitting not having the hose end being installed wil be placed in the "soft jaws" of the vice. I also place a thin piece of blue painters tape on the fitting side the wrench is going on (and sometimes on the wrench and the other side as well). The black fittings I use tend to scratch easy. This method allows for the ends to look perfect when finished.
When cutting the braided stainless use some tape on the end before cutting so that it will go in the fitting easier and prevents some finger stabbing....the rest is assembly.

man that is terrible news...I knew Jim suffered from a stroke awhile back...but he told me he was recovering.

life is short, and I think we don't always remember how fragile life really is.

race on, Jim

those hanson trays work good. I have them in the bottom 2 drawers in the top chest and fit fine.
[IMG]http://i56.tinypic.com/24dhkzk.jpg[/IMG]

Ultraman, PM sent.

Very true, egr will reduce cylinder temps. in a more stock application, and was definitely part of the intent/design.

Some of the things I see are that with a more modified motor, especially bigger strokers and or using power-adders, cylinder pressure is increased. With that, the temp. will increase some at the heads (not the CTS/intake typical scan data).

This is controlled in several ways, because you're going to be making more tq./power in those ranges, timing doesn't need to be that tweaky anymore to get it have response/power etc. All hacks/bins have various add-ons tables for comping fueling, IAC, etc.(some for timing) based on temps. to further control changes that occur from motor/cyl. temps. When these are changed, this also aids in controlling temps. Additionally if it sequential, the fueling can also be tuned better. Obviously this doesn't help much if trying lug the car in 6th at very low speeds etc.

All of EGR tables are zeroed out in the bin as well as turning the "switches" off that set codes. The same would apply to any AIR with the exception of changing the 02 add-on.
When tuning several things change, getting the fuel and timing right controls detonation and or spark knock. When spark knock occurs it is not only a product of too little fuel but can sometimes occur from too much fuel (particularly in a map car). Where and how much timing is pulled is also controlled in the bin which are modified values. Once enough data is used to get the tune right, if encountering a weird load/rpm range typically the most timing I see being pulled is 1-3*. With SD/map cars it also important to note that it takes quite a bit more data to get the car tuned well. But the consistency level of fueling/timing/load values becomes excellent. IMO it can become a better tune than the maf cars due to the ability of having actual fuel and timing cells through-out the entire rpm vs load ranges. The SD bins are also more "hacked" (the ability for better tuning due to an increase in IAC controls, fueling in open, closed and pe etc.etc.)out than any of the maf bins. This is also one of the reason/s why it takes more work/time to develop the tune.

Some side to side is normal. I would also be inspecting lifters, if the rocker is loosing adjustment, and also check pushrods for straighness (and if hitting the guide plates). If you take any of the rockers (cold) and the valves are completely closed there will be some side to side. If there isn,t any, than the adjustment maybe too tight.
I'd steer away from to much of a budget rocker. Scorps may have the better rep for a budget rocker.

we could try a few different mph/lock points until you find what works for your driving.
Sounds like we should start around 46-48 for 3rd and around 48-50 for 4th. Aside from postage, ANY and ALL additional tweaks are part of the deal.
just let me know

looks real good...well made piece!

In that situation, and If possible, I go 1 bolt size up. If I have to remain at the same size I prefer thread certs insted of using heli-coils.

That should do what you want. On my 90 I have coil overs on the front and the fx3 bilsteins on the rear (for about one more week). I have the rears set to the stiffest setting, and they will only change if the switch position is changed (w/no front actuators).

Don,
I don't remove the ebrake cable. I remove the caliper pins/bolts, then the caliper (in one piece)then the braket bolts to remove the rotor....hope this helps
Mick

[IMG]http://i52.tinypic.com/ws3gxw.gif[/IMG]

lol......

Will, those are real good looking rims, way better than the typical prostar or 'a mold' thing (MO of course). Did you get rears as well ?
I think the front caliper clearance is pretty much the same with any of the fronts. I elected no cutting and am using a 1/4" hub centric spacer. The rears on mine however needed nothing.

Thanks for the words guys...
yeah I'm looking forward to getting the rubber on today/tomorrow. I will post pics on the car w/tires. My last ones were all black a molds and while I like black out, the rims loose the lines/look. I wanted some contrast but with a black out look. After seeing the 2.0 welds (600.ea for fronts)and the comp 5 billet specialties(600+ for fronts only) I wanted to go for that type of look. Bill at QC is the kind of guy that will work with someone on making an idea happen...of course if possible.

Rick, The wheels and tires are a significant weight loss. I also have 'a molds' with dr's on the rears, and each front tire/wheel weighs 56lbs ea.(rears are 59 approx.). The new rims fronts weigh 9lbs ea. and tire weighs 20lbs. Rears are 35ea. tire and rims are 16lbs ea....so around a 90+ lbs reduction !!
The wheel sizes are 4x15 fronts (2.25 bs) and 10x15 (7.50 bs. for f body)rears. Rear tires are 295/55/15 MT ET street radials and fronts are ET SR 6/26/15.

flyboy, if done well, powder coating is pretty damn bullet proof. My intake for example was done in 05 and has been on and off multiple times, reported, re-installed again on the new motor etc. The bolt holes are barely marred, it will take considerable harm before there is a noticeable effect. The stuff is awesome !

my latest "add-on" from mock up to coating..
These wheels are Billet specialties street lites.
new and mocked up:
[IMG]http://i53.tinypic.com/35c2b9s.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i51.tinypic.com/vs29lv.jpg[/IMG]
taping them up:
[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/2mmh008.jpg[/IMG]
blasted:
[IMG]http://i53.tinypic.com/2ce3sdy.jpg[/IMG]
coated:
[IMG]http://i54.tinypic.com/33zfdip.jpg[/IMG]
Bill at QC laying on the clear
[IMG]http://i51.tinypic.com/dw8cpi.jpg[/IMG]
ready to get the tires mounted!
[IMG]http://i54.tinypic.com/1zybprk.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i56.tinypic.com/2hprgcw.jpg[/IMG]
(undecided on doing caps black or natural)
A special thanks to my friends at QC Coatings

I looked at those myself and think they are really good looking wheels. My choices would be a toss up between the qualifier series or the split spoke....the split spoke will look great!!

interesting, does an LT needs a different version?
mine looks like this:
[IMG]http://i53.tinypic.com/2v3hved.jpg[/IMG]
I use a piece of .020 piano wire bent in an "L" shape with (about 3"x 1")for determining pinion to ring mesh.
There are few starter places around here that sell these brand new from 100.-125. ea. (with warranty). They are high torque/rpm that will support up to 16:1 comp. motors.

I've re-used front and rears a couple times now (w/lock-tite).

I thought the rear wasn't too bad what I don't like is yanking the trans.
I agree with prices though...I have a chunk of $$$ in mine.

Thanks Matthew,
The issue seems to be the knurl diameter. According to most GM numbers it "should be" a .509. After removing stock studs what I'm seeing on a used stud is approx. .497-.505. I'm guessing with compression of the knurl it will lose .005-.007 dia. The original hole size with spline is difficult to determine it "looks like".492-.497 but definetly not .500 ? (length is easy am going to use 2 1/4")

Thanks guys
sizes are 15x4-2.25 b.s., and 15x10-7.5 b.s. Mine is a 90 (later offset) so they were the 56 mm b.s. on the a molds.
I'll be knocking out the studs tonight. It appears that there are a couple of numbers for the knurl dia. I'll know more when I actually measure the flange hole and the original studs...hopefully.

The wheels and tires will be a significant weight loss. I also have a molds with dr's each front tire/wheel weighs 56lbs ea.(approx.), and the rears are more. The new rims fronts weigh 9lbs ea. and tire weighs 20lbs. Rears are 35ea. tire and rims are 16lbs ea.

Started set-up on the new Billet Specialties f body rims. The fit is awesome with no mods required to the calipers. Actual clearacne is about 1/4" all the way around (pic. makes it look a tad tight)

To those who have replcaed studs, does anyone know the original knurl dia. of the late model c4 (either in mm or inches). and or the actual hole dia. of the flange/hub?

here's a couple of shots..note the shims on the hawk pads failing again.....

[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/209ppqt.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/34r6u0w.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i53.tinypic.com/f9qfjq.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i53.tinypic.com/ehkm14.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i56.tinypic.com/6f6nm9.jpg[/IMG]

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That's exactly what I would do...look at all numbers IAC, CTS, target AFR/cold , blm/hot, at idle and both cold and at operating temp (if possible). The only drag is scrolling through when using a scan tool.

On mine everything else on the drive train is coated. The only things not coated on mine: the block, cylinder heads, rear knuckles, lower struts, and front upper and lower arms (as those looked good):
[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/2w7foqx.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i54.tinypic.com/2mq0tn8.jpg[/IMG]

mine looks the same

I use these guys:
http://www.dynotechengineering.com/

I don't want anyone think I am trying to jack this thread. Andy my apologies.

Thanks for the words on the wiring junk. When having to "tap" in many additional lines I felt the stock wiring and being shared with other inputs was not a good idea. The goal was to create a separate system to operate all add-ons (n20, line lock, elec. w.p. etc.) using a 7 additional circuits having separate power and switched power source. This also allows for only ground and power wire being attached to the battery. The glove box is built to be a component that unplugs and allows servicing including each set of separate wiring harnesses being used.

Bill, inside the car I thought that the standard unsealed Metri-packs were good enough (59, and 280 series unsealed)rated at 0-20 and 0-30 respectively.
The sealed Metri-Packs used under the hood and other outside locations are: 480 series (2 cavities 0-42 amp rated), 280 series (4-5 connect, 0-30 amps ) and 630 series (3 connector 0-46 amp).

Wish I knew you when you were giving this stuff away ..

hey Bill..
the below wiring is what I'm refering too...Some of wp. connectors I used are rated at 30 and couple 40's (depending on app.and external only)inside car oem style non-wp. rated at 20-30 (depending on app.), all txl wire, power dist. blocks (only one power/ground from battery to operate all add-ons), painless 7 circuit, all silver soldered connects etc.etc.(terminal supply is my friend lol).

my wiring junk,
glove box:
[IMG]http://i52.tinypic.com/iqwyma.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i52.tinypic.com/e5pro2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/2e0lhtx.jpg[/IMG]
consol:
[IMG]http://i54.tinypic.com/dm67tc.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i52.tinypic.com/1zyiqlc.jpg[/IMG]
bottle:
[IMG]http://i53.tinypic.com/vrv8dt.jpg[/IMG]

interesting thoughts on contact lube. I've been using DeOxit5, it cleans and leaves a slight residue (supposedly for that purpose. One of the comp./amp repair guys here turned me on to it a few years back. I have used a smear of dilectric on some tight new weather packs, and contacts that are very tight. Looks I need to get something else for that.
Andy, so whats the latest with the car ?

Yes, the compression would be lowered from going from your stock original 56cc. heads to using a 64 cc.cylinder head. I am not familiar with the Pro-comp stuff so I can't comment on their product. I would first have your originals looked at and see where I was at before buying anything....they might not be that bad.
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