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Re: How much grease do I pump into the ball joints? |
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aside from saving the tires, can a good alignment make the car "feel" sportier/better?
why would the spring stay up? that's weird... wonder if I should rebuild my old control arms with polys and balljoints and put them back in and then sell the NOS item or maybe not, killed myself for 2 days crawling around the car not to mention doing the rears and shocks and bleeding the brakes... the crap never stops....
Posted on: 2011/1/10 3:57
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Re: How much grease do I pump into the ball joints? |
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when to align, after they settle?
Posted on: 2011/1/10 2:12
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Re: How much grease do I pump into the ball joints? |
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i missed those episodes, but that Canadian production is cool, well it's all in,at first it felt kind of rubbery (the driving) now it feels like a new car,
new ball joints steering rack rebuit new rubber bushings with z51 stamped on the bottom of the control arm wheel bearings no play front 32 mm bar with poly bushings on the frame didn't bother with the ones on the arm...yet.. I am pleased... the car sits 1 inch higher and I tighten the bolts with the cars weight on the spring, so the new bushings brought it back up to stock factory height. 4 wheel drive it is.... i just pumped them full of grease till they plumped....not oozing...
Posted on: 2011/1/9 23:58
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Re: How much grease do I pump into the ball joints? |
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robots put the C4 together? the rear lower bolt came out with some coaxing, but I flip flopped both of them, easier to tighten them with the nuts on the outside...
the grease is not light, it is heavy as any wheel grease and it filled the boot up, my pumping grease in them is just topping it off....
Posted on: 2011/1/8 7:41
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Re: How much grease do I pump into the ball joints? |
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that seems kind of insane, since the factory worker, grabs the A arm and bolts it on the car in the assembly line, I can't see how to remove the rubber boots, to get to the grease they are sealed.
I don't see how they are suppose to replace the grease with something more suitable, and at the end, they will be some residual grease left behind. an the process is going to me messy as hell, grease everywhere whatever, it is now a cocktail for grease in there, I bury my head in the sand on this one....
Posted on: 2011/1/8 5:25
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Re: How much grease do I pump into the ball joints? |
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heck I pumped my stalube semi-synthetic in with the delivery grease, it that cool?
it was not that thin, just reminded my of high school in the 70's, that kind of grease... wheel bearing grease.....
Posted on: 2011/1/8 4:14
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Re: How much grease do I pump into the ball joints? |
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the grease that was in the NOS ball joints look like the cheapest ( translucent) stuff you can buy, the bottom one I took off, did not wear that much, it still protrudes a bit past the housing ( wear indicator), Delco is good stuff, it had 146k miles on it.
the boot was even intact, however the upper seemed a little sloppier and the boot was ripped, maybe that's why it was looser. next side tomorrow.... can't wait to test drive it...
Posted on: 2011/1/8 3:33
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How much grease do I pump into the ball joints? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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Okay I install the new Arms into the driver's side and I pumped grease into the zerks, the top boot ballooned but did not burst.
my tie rod end I plumped up last month... I am afraid to rupture the new rubbers, how much is too much??? the lowers don't ballon but does firm up a bit.... thanks for your comments
Posted on: 2011/1/8 2:40
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Re: Rear Wheel bearing R&R check list. |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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I clicked when I first got the car and didn't want to tackle the job, was not sure it was the washer, eventually the sound went away...
fast forward 2 years, I jack up the car the wheel had alot of play, i got worried read somewhere it could be loose and upon attempting to tighten, it was very loose, I do not own a 200lb torque wrench, nor do I want to , so the 4 foot pipe showed up to rescue once again, I cranked it down and, the "play" went bye bye and the clicking never said hello.. the moral, the clicking suppose to indicate washer wear? who knows? never took it apart, the torqued down nut is keeping it together and that is all I care about could be a moron for feeling this way....
Posted on: 2011/1/6 22:38
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Re: How do I remove the rubber ball joint boots? |
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Quote:
I thought the stuff i see on your avatar is a forgone conclusion... check this out.... http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=287903&page=1
Posted on: 2010/12/31 22:08
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Re: How do I remove the rubber ball joint boots? |
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hello
Posted on: 2010/12/31 22:07
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Re: How do I remove the rubber ball joint boots? |
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They are NOS arms from corvette recycling, they are supple as the day they were made....
should I leave the boots as well?
Posted on: 2010/12/31 21:43
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How do I remove the rubber ball joint boots? |
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I got some new front control arms and want to put poly ball joint boots on, I can't seem to figure out how the original ones are attached, don't want to rip it... or should I leave it.
the bushings on them are beautiful, I am very hesitant to slap polys on them, should I just install them as they are? your comments appreciated....
Posted on: 2010/12/31 21:18
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Re: why do poly bushings feel soft on the upper control arms? |
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i squeeze it and the single upper poly seems firm like poly should be and the 2 part uppers seems like just rubber, they have energy suspension number codes on them I bought them from a CF member, who bought a master set and went with global west stuff for the fronts, he had these laying around.... I saved a few bucks
Posted on: 2010/12/30 20:46
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why do poly bushings feel soft on the upper control arms? |
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just got a set for the fronts and the uppers seem very rubbery, compared to regular polys, is there any advantage in going through the trouble to put them in?
Posted on: 2010/12/30 20:16
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Re: Compared to other brands of performance cars, do based spring equipted Vettes have higher rates? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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so what you are saying there is a sweet spot for spring rates given the weight, wheel or otherwise... and most cars would feel the same and Vettes are biased firmer? softer? than most 2 seat sports cars?
Posted on: 2010/12/30 18:32
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Re: Compared to other brands of performance cars, do based spring equipted Vettes have higher rates? |
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[IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1287.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1285.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1253.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1248.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2010/12/29 21:50
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Compared to other brands of performance cars, do based spring equipted Vettes have higher rates? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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I put in some z51 Bilsteins yesterday to replace my FX3,
with the shock out in the front I could barely push it down and when I did it to other cars in the past the car would yoyo up and down without stopping, like a boat bobbing, is that that how the leaf spring behaves?
Posted on: 2010/12/29 20:50
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Pondering lowering the front by the end pads, when doing the polys |
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I ordered 4 control arms from Corv recyling.
believe me I had to maul this over.... done I will have it apart for the job, and reading how the mass marketed lowering pads are really unnecessary as you can just grind down the stock ones. It is an extra step on remove and replace, I real don't like the idea of a lowered car as it tend to scrape it already does the front spoiler. but.... maybe 1/2 inch will do no harm and besides my rear end went up 1/2 inch....I like the jacked up look, remember Gabriel Hijacker air shocks? I have found no pictures, if I had the insane urge to removing pads from the ends of the spring, how much of a drop will occur? If it is the same as the drop with the "wedges" why on earth would someone go through the trouble with the wedges, when allz they had to do was the end pads?
Posted on: 2010/12/28 7:35
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Re: WTF need to jack the engine to pull the lower a-arms? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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Quote:
well I finally look at my bolts from on top of the tire area and there is no "K" frame I think. all it has is the "Z51" diagonal braces, if you know what I am talking about and from the head of the bolt, which faces to the rear in my case there is approx. 2.5 inches...not like the one you have pictured here which, looks like about .5 inch. so without further exploration, do you think I have a lower control arm rear bolt removal problem?
Posted on: 2010/12/25 22:14
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Re: is it standard procedure to replace the inner tie rod ends with a rack rebuild? |
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I see the spokes of the wheel go over the 2 turn mark a tad
Posted on: 2010/12/23 0:16
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Re: is it standard procedure to replace the inner tie rod ends with a rack rebuild? |
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Quote:
talkin 'bout inners not outers....
Posted on: 2010/12/22 23:57
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Re: is it standard procedure to replace the inner tie rod ends with a rack rebuild? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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well my shop sent it out for a 1 day rebuild, I guess those re-builders do this exclusively and I suppose they would not leave a 130k inner tie rods in the unit, that would be a crime.
mine is 2.25 turns lock to lock
Posted on: 2010/12/22 21:53
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Re: is it standard procedure to replace the inner tie rod ends with a rack rebuild? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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good catch, poor construction ( my sentence) I have a FX3 car, it had every z51 option except springs and bars....
I upped the bars and my used 10K z51 shocks are coming..... so my rack is a fast rack....
Posted on: 2010/12/22 19:18
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is it standard procedure to replace the inner tie rod ends with a rack rebuild? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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it feels tight, when my hoses blew earlier this year, my shop said it was leaking, so they rebuilt the whole thing, I didn't want a replacement cause it turned only 2.25 lock to lock, so that I think is z51 territory.
but now I wonder if they mickey moused the inner tie rods....
Posted on: 2010/12/22 5:58
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Re: Does anyone here knows if VBP ball joints fit and if they are a good brand? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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so what are you saying, get the cheapest once and call it a day?
Posted on: 2010/12/20 19:31
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Re: Does anyone here knows if VBP ball joints fit and if they are a good brand? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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That thread I have read over and over again, he bought the stuff from Corvette central and it held up the job,even the new TRW's uppers weren't aligned perfectly, what gives?
any how I can't see how a reputable " racing oriented" outfit like VBP who would not correct an ill-fitting or poor quality short life span part, at the end if the day, when you look at what they offer, it is minimalist for sure. unlike Eckler's Mamo, Corv central et al. which carries everything, VBP I feel is intimate and is accountable for what they sell, more so than the general public type aforementioned outfits. That said, who knows, I could call them and I think their rebuild kit is a good alternative to Corvette recycling's 4 "new" control arms for 400 bucks. it costs 399.99 and has tie rods and boots in poly, bushings, although the ball joints will have to be replaced by oneself. it would be hard for me to press out brand NOS, rubber bushings to put in polys and then have old arms sitting around, just my take. I agree from reading it's best to stay with moogs and trw...but the jury is out
Posted on: 2010/12/20 18:40
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Re: I am in trouble with rear polys |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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I have to correct my comment, I had to remove the bar bushings.... for one... the offset-to-the-rear holes, thats drill into the bushings, while in the correct position, was all the way to the edge of the bracket (stock).
The bracket, is formed by factory stamping and has a supportive curvature; keeping the bushing from skirming out, unlike the rears where the aftermarket bushing has a ridge that straddles the strap. Well the bar rubbed on both sides equally, on the inside edge wearing the bar, an I think, immaterial amount. To correct this I filed/clearanced ( yet again, me and my files with no handles)a scallop/scoop to accommodate the curvature of the bar,spritzed with paint. the bar moved back a tad, thinking it was "pushed" forward a minute amount by the metal I had removed. "Bind"? I struggled with getting the end links to line up, and was in fear the big bar would not fit within the confines of the rear radiator fan housing and my modded Z51 power-steering cooler,, as a trans cooler is stacked in front of the true steering cooler. This was my initial concern, after the lower bar poly busing swap. as it shoved the bar forward and kissed or rather dry "F" d the fan housing. I started to panic a little and got a grip on things, it could have been worse, it could have been raining. This was with one side up, with no recourse, I raised the other side and finished everything up without any further concerns, Remarkably, the links were in perfect 0 degrees, everything lined up and, the truth be told, allowed me to regain the stiffness I had and appreciated with the dry binding bushings I had going in under-lubed for a 2 year period, without the squeaks and continuous suspension altering bind. And frankly, my wanting front polys is just that want, who needs? [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1211.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1212.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1214.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1213.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1215.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1216.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1220.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1219.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1218.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1217.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv159/Salsadancer383/CIMG1221.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2010/12/20 2:12
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Re: Does anyone here knows if VBP ball joints fit and if they are a good brand? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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no rush man, I sold a harbor fright drill press after a bout with drilling my then xs1100 brake rotors, turned out great, after that episode, i didn't want to see another metal chip
I had Pintos, Capris, and Stangs but you win the award for nicest car of the 70's, I liked the AMX and Javelins, even the gremlins, and even the Cosworth vegas.... Garages... would like to avoid them when I can.....
Posted on: 2010/12/19 20:17
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Re: Does anyone here knows if VBP ball joints fit and if they are a good brand? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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My real question was to see if they had fitment issues as experienced by some other users with other brands ,
hey Bogus, Yeah autozone loaned me that tool for 100 deposit good for 72 hours then I own it, talk about pressure, it helped my get all the rear bushings out and some in. frankly just tossing ideas around, my ball joints with the tires up, does not wiggle when I try, and flipping through the pages of my Haynes repair book, I ran across what you are saying about the "wear indication" however they say that the shoulders of the zerk mount/ threads. fall below the joint housing plane, which in my estimation is sooner than your procedure. nevertheless, I am quite sure they are the original delco's with ~145k on them and from the visual, I think they can go a few more years, the PO's x2 were anal about grease.... matter of fact he calls to check on me and his baby and it's been 2 years since I snatched it from him. He for sure did not like my putting the 700r4 in from the black tag, heck it's mine now. It is in good hands though, albeit rough at times, yeah I mess up alot. I want to do at the very least the polys, I don't know why but it has me obsessed. The ball joints are good. okay... how about this I live in a nice apartment, and the owners I know lets me work on the car, but I'm streamlining and selling off a lot of material things. i just don't want crap anymore.... I can go and buy a vise and a press, cheap enough and then I could sell it after the job, for a 30-50 percent hit. result... job done right at my place, reality.... big hassle.... would you consider me bringing the part and putting your machine shop to good use? and using that raincheck for your initial offer for helping me with the rears, but this time it's for the fronts. I would diffenately pay you for your extra pair of hands....
Posted on: 2010/12/19 19:49
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Does anyone here knows if VBP ball joints fit and if they are a good brand? |
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Just tossing some ideas around, I know they team up with prothane for poly bushings, I have their sway bars..
I also heard Prothane bushings are so bad fitting on the upper control arms, they allow the metal sleeve to rotate on the aluminum shaft and chewing it up if one is not careful... or the theory is the sleeve is too short...
Posted on: 2010/12/19 19:06
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Re: If the front lower shock bushing is torn, is there a cheap fix? |
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Quote:
Thanks for your generality.. but I am getting non FX3 shocks... 
Posted on: 2010/12/19 19:01
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Re: If the front lower shock bushing is torn, is there a cheap fix? |
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I don't like the FX3 which threw a bad rr broken gear code and others...the fx3 sucks, so I sold every part of it over a 2 year period, these shocks are the last to go....bye bye
just called them 12 bucks, and a vise....
Posted on: 2010/12/17 20:20
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If the front lower shock bushing is torn, is there a cheap fix? |
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well I got some new shocks coming, and I was hoping to sell my low mileage FX3 (~35k) shocks...
however when installing my lower sway bar poly bushings ( what a bitch) I notice one of them was ripped. is this repairable economically or should I just toss the shocks in the garbage?
Posted on: 2010/12/17 19:45
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Re: can I take off the lower control arm without removing everything? |
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thanks for the links with the bolt issue, now I understand how the upper shaft goes through,
one upper bushing is just 1 piece not 2, with a smaller shoulder on one end....
Posted on: 2010/12/17 19:41
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Re: can I take off the lower control arm without removing everything? |
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so the support stiffens the chassis? have a pics?
Posted on: 2010/12/17 0:08
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Re: can I take off the lower control arm without removing everything? |
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so worse case, I am not looking at the car just yet, but...
what is required to pull the "LCA" if the bolt is facing the wrong way, cut it off??? can get a replacement? what grade is it is it cut-able? is the replacement difficult to locate?
Posted on: 2010/12/16 23:02
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Re: can I take off the lower control arm without removing everything? |
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thanks for reminding me, this stops the job, mine is an 89, I am sure it was an oversite at GM.
i have to go look when I put in my new shocks, can you explain the motor mount scenario?
Posted on: 2010/12/16 20:18
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Re: can I take off the lower control arm without removing everything? |
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no to knock the connection from the knuckle, leave the joint in, it is still good.
I can do the lowers at home the bushings I can get out with a ball joint press, I don't have a hydraulic press and the uppers you need those, comprehend? this way I can remove the upper arm without removing everything at someone's house that has a press. I don't mind doing it a step at a time, it's all the same it will take a lot of time, i just want to space out the misery, or not trouble someone else with the complete job, if i can do some of it myself. as in this case the LOWERS. I tried to figure out(visualize) how to remove the top bushings but the center shaft part I don't understand. can you explain?
Posted on: 2010/12/16 19:39
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can I take off the lower control arm without removing everything? |
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Senior Guru
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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I figure the lower control arm has no bar on it, so I can easily get the rubber bushings out, can someone correct my process
ball joint still good raise car removed wheel remove cotter pin, loosen lower ball joint castle nut. place jack under control arm knock ball joint loose with nut on top to save threads. remove nut, lower arm to release tension of spring. let arm hang. remove both bolts that holds the arm to the chassis replace in reverse order. I don't think I even need to remove the rotor or caliper. and how do you do the tops by themselves later?
Posted on: 2010/12/16 18:48
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Re: I am in trouble with rear polys |
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Senior Guru
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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upgraded to 26mm vbp 2 years ago, and no the bar does not come off for the poly job, thankful for that....finally put in my lower front sway bar poly bushings left it out 2 years ago, thinking it was too hard,
it was too hard took me 6 hours.....
Posted on: 2010/12/16 5:12
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do shock makers use valving for specific makes and models? |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
302
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do they "test" their parts on the intended car, or they use they same shit just change the housing, reason is my ahole frenemy said the Tokico Hp I have coming via ups, sucked in his Maxima and the lumina's were the shit.
I say I read some good comments about this "budget" shock. I guess I need to have them in the car....and would be good to know Tokico, "knows" it is going in a Corvette, and make it behave not like a Buick.....
Posted on: 2010/12/15 18:28
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Re: can I mix windex with my car windshield washer fluid |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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yeah, if traveling long distances, crap can't get on the windshield, then I am the asshole.
Windex don't even do a good job after I wash the car, it leaves streaks, water is best...
Posted on: 2010/12/14 21:25
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can I mix windex with my car windshield washer fluid |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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I have a big jug I want to used up, without screwing up the car?
Posted on: 2010/12/14 17:52
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Re: Name in order the inferiority of factory suspension components vs. Banski type parts |
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Senior Guru
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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why just 84-87? was there an improvement after?
I figure when the car was new the center of the bushings was actual, and over time the weight of the car would stretch the rubber, sagging the car, hence some of the stories about driver side sag, I don't know... so when my polys went in, the true center-line of arm was re-established throughout, subsequently returning the car to original static geometry. I don't believe/feel there is binding...if it were the suspension would not move and if it did it would stay at were it moved to. i am sure there is some of it going on, but with the weight of the car, it can over come it and center itself while going through it's paces on day in and day out driving. wrong? I install a vbp 32mm solid front bar and the drivers link dislodge from the bar, I have seen picks of another car doing the same thing, what is going on here?. remember when they were just a long stud with 4 bushings? no binding... what is a cheap fix, I don't notice any ill manners from my "broken link" been 2 years, tried puting it back twice, popped right back out....
Posted on: 2010/12/13 4:13
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Re: Name in order the inferiority of factory suspension components vs. Banski type parts |
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Quote:
as a curiosity,will your parts raise the car back to it's stock height?
Posted on: 2010/12/12 23:58
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Re: rear hub/bearing |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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only one?
Posted on: 2010/12/12 7:37
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Re: Name in order the inferiority of factory suspension components vs. Banski type parts |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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so this means in a short time the polys will degrade faster than rubber, meaning rubber will last 50 times longer?
why did you take it apart? are you saying no one that was successful on the strip uses polys because they break?
Posted on: 2010/12/12 2:14
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Re: rear hub/bearing |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home
heard they are the best for racing NAPA 190.00 rollers I heard builds too much heat
Posted on: 2010/12/12 0:58
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Re: Name in order the inferiority of factory suspension components vs. Banski type parts |
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2009/7/16 17:45 Posts:
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Right, the rubber is the cushion, not isolated to only Vettes, all oem cars I theorize.
the rubber does deform over time and I believe the car sits lower because of it. My car sits higher and my driving it has worked out the kinks, but still sittin high, I now like the driving and riding sensation. I feel the polys provide a slicker, truer action, whereas, the rubber is purely contorting itself withing the housings. It's no heim joint, but somewhat similar albeit inferior action, the tense sensation is the dissimilar compliance from the rubber ( durometer?), in which I can live with, now that the suspension has worked itself out; so to dissect the feeling, firm but with more ball bearing feeling, if that makes any sense, I am going to forgo any heim joint camber rods, as i think I have accomplished my "street" goals. my flipping the steering wheel left to right at moderate speeds has always induces the pendulum unloading in the rear oscillating if you will like a motorcycle getting the wobbles, or tanks slappers as they call it. I believe this annoyance, is the result worn FX3 shocks, i ordered Tokico Blues last night hope it helps to complete my street suspension.
Posted on: 2010/12/12 0:28
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