All Posts (screamin_conure)
Re: '92 blower motor / evaporator cleaning. |
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In thinking about this, you're probably right. I'm definitely not an engineer, but just looking at various pics of the fan / blower motor assembly, they don't look like they would move a whole lot of air. I guess maybe with the small cabins these cars have, GM figured they didn't need a higher volume fan. I'm guess I'm just used to the fans in my Toyotas.
Posted on: 2016/6/22 17:25
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'92 blower motor / evaporator cleaning. |
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Howdy Gurus,
I've been putting up with the problem of fairly weak air flow from my A/C system for a while now and I was looking to do something about it. The air at the vents is noticeably cold, and it appears all of the vacuum lines are working normally as when I change the settings on the C68 head unit, I can hear things happening inside the dash and can feel the air change to the proper outlet. When I set the temp to 60 degrees, choose recirc and crank the fan up to 10, there's just not a whole lot of air moving out the vents. So I thought checking the blower motor / fan / evaporator for cleanliness would be a good place to start. Rock Auto has new blower motor/fan assemblies dirt cheap, so I'm half tempted to just pick up a replacement: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.p ... 814606&cc=1041310&jsn=425. My question is, has anyone ever successfully tackled cleaning up their evaporator / evaporator housing without having to entirely remove it? Since the system has been holding a charge now for a few years since replacing the condenser, I was looking to try to do this without having to have the system emptied and remove the evaporator entirely. Just looking for any tips / gotchas. Thanks! Ron
Posted on: 2016/6/21 18:31
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Re: Optispark thoughts |
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The front of the car would have been oriented facing toward the top of each of the two pictures. So you can see where the leaks appear to be coming from both the front and back of the engine.
It's pretty apparent that the leak at the rear (rear main seal and/or pan gasket) has grown a bit. Though I am planning to keep the car a few more years at least, Bill's post got me to thinking. Not sure if I'm ready to sink $1.5k - $2k (my estimates) into an $8k car. If these were your leaks would you be chasing them down? And what's interesting too, is that during the driving season, I see no leakage at all. I guess the heat from regular use must keep the seals, well, 'sealed'. It's only when it sits for a minimum of several weeks that I see the above.
Posted on: 2016/3/28 17:55
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Re: Optispark thoughts |
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2016...
Posted on: 2016/3/28 17:54
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Re: Optispark thoughts |
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A lot of good input guys. Now I'm not so sure just how far I want to pursue this. Call me weird, but I've taken a pic of the oil spots the car has left after sitting all winter for the past two years.
2015... 
Posted on: 2016/3/28 17:52
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Re: Optispark thoughts |
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Thanks for the input guys. I sent my mechanic an email with the list of things I'm considering. I told him the oil leaks were my primary concern, and that I'd really rather not have the engine come out. I asked him to give me a quote for fixing all the leaks for both scenarios...engine in and engine out. Still waiting for a reply. It would have to be a SIGNIFICANT savings for me to go with pulling the engine.
I'll take a cautious approach with the Opti. The timing cover leak means the Opti has to come off, and will also give us a visual on the timing chain and gears. We'll just wait and see what they both look like and go from there.
Posted on: 2016/3/25 16:31
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Optispark thoughts |
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Hi Gurus,
Been a while, but I'm still around. About to get the Vette on the road for the season. I've decided to address the oil leaks I've been looking at for the last couple of years. My mechanic took a close look at things for me last summer, and found I'm leaking from the pan gasket, rear seal, timing cover, and intake. The leak from the rear seal seems to be the worst, while the other points are not quite as bad. My mechanic told me that if I was looking to take care of them all, it would probably save me a few bucks in labor if he just pulled the engine and went through everything on an engine stand. I'm seriously thinking about having it done this spring. The car is a '92 and in great condition otherwise and just about 78,000 on the odometer. I'm planning to keep the car at least a few more years and maybe longer, so I think it's worth investing a bit in it. Waiting on a quote from my guy for the work. My question though, is if we're actually going to go through with pulling the engine, that would be a great time to look at doing a few other things. I was thinking a new water pump, new timing chain / gears, and also replacing the Opti. The Opti is original as far as I can tell. I'm not having any Opti-specific problems, so I'm thinking totally preemptive here. So I'm kind of looking for "if it were my car..." type of input. Would you do the Opti? If so, what brand / parts source would you go with? I see Rock Auto has reconditioned AC/Delco units available. I was kinda' leaning in that direction. Thoughts greatly appreciated. Ron
Posted on: 2016/3/24 22:05
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Re: State of the C4 |
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Been a while since I've posted, but this thread got me going. ;)
Excellent, excellent thread. I've had my '92 for going on six years now and like everyone else here, I've had my share of ups and downs with parts availability and quality. I have firsthand experience with the '92/'93 ECM issue. When I bought my car, the IAC circuit in my original ECM was flaky, causing wild swings in idle speed. I got lucky back in 2012 and found a working replacement ECM on eBay. That corrected the issue. In August of that year, I then sent my original ECM to Blue Streak Electronics to be rebuilt. I actually did that through Rock Auto. I've been running the rebuilt original now for over two driving seasons and haven't had any issues, and I still have the eBay unit as a spare. Not sure if Rock still offers rebuilds through Blue Streak anymore, but if you REALLY need a '92 / '93 ECM rebuilt, it might be worht giving them a call. I have an O'Reilly, Advanced Auto and AutoZone all just a few blocks from home, and you can throw a baseball from each one's parking lot and have it land in either of the other two. Needless to say, they get the bulk of my replacement parts business. Not especially crazy about any of them, but for certain things they're okay. I've had good luck with BWD and Standard Motor Products replacement parts and try to stick with those when AC/Delco isn't an option. Case in point...I just replaced the PCV grommet on my car with a generic fit replacement from one of the big box stores. It works, but I'm not at all happy with the fit. I also replaced the grommet in the valve cover for the breather hose. THAT part came from Eckler's because it's just not available anywhere else. The Eckler's part is an EXACT match of the original and I also discovered that the original PCV valve grommet is the exact same part as the valve cover grommet, so I have another one on order to replace the puny generic part. Live and learn. Like Andy, I'm a little bit concerned about the future of the C4 too. It was a transitional car in Corvette's lineage, and GM was trying a LOT of different ideas with it. Ideas that have long since been surpassed or left behind (i.e., Optispark, etc.). For example you'll always be able to find a quality replacement distributor for a C2 or C3, but let's see where good replacement Optisparks are in another 8 or 10 years. And yeah, this is the best place on the web for C4 know-how. Ron
Posted on: 2015/5/21 22:07
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Re: KYB Shocks |
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I just put a set of KYB Gas-a-Just on my '92 at the beginning of this season. They seem to give just a slightly smoother ride than the originals that were on the car. It seems to handle about like it always did. For a car that is street driven and not raced, they're perfect. Mine are metallic grey in color. I got the $40.00 rebate too.
So far, so good.
Posted on: 2014/8/9 17:52
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Kudos to FIC |
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This weekend, I replaced these...
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=01D042x&eq=&Tp= with these... http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=420 ...in my '92 coupe and I couldn't be happier. FIC now offers Bosch III injectors with the EXACT flow characteristics required by early LT1 Corvettes, and let me just say they are awesome! Years ago, I had previously tried a set of the yellow Bosch III units that FIC sold (and still sells), but those only flowed something like 19 lbs. per hour and left my fuel trims way lean. I swapped those for the Racetronix units which are a Lucas disc type injector. While the Racetronix injectors delivered the proper fueling and were a good, serviceable injector, they don't atomize fuel quite like the Bosch units do. My BLMs are bang on with no ECM reprogramming required. Better idle, smoother throttle response, and though I haven't had them in long enough to verify, I'm guessing a little better fuel economy. Just wanted to pass this along. If you have a stock or mostly stock '92 or '93 LT1 Vette and you're looking for an injector upgrade/replacement, for $180.00, you can't go wrong. Ron
Posted on: 2014/7/28 17:38
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Re: DTC 44 and wildly split BLMs at idle |
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Swapping the O2 sensors did fix the DTC44 issue. I've been driving it for the past couple of weeks with no SES light coming on.
The only thing I'm still concerned about is that when we swapped the sensors, the passenger side sensor looked good, but the driver's side was pretty well fouled. When I can get around to it, I need to pull a plug or two from the driver's side and see what they're looking like.
Posted on: 2014/6/24 15:52
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Re: DTC 44 and wildly split BLMs at idle |
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Well Bam, you were right. I thought about your comment about the O2 sensors, and in looking at the way my driver's side O2 basically stopped reacting once it hit a certain temperature I took a leap and ordered a pair of Densos from Rock Auto (less than $25.00 delivered to my door). Fuel trims are now nice and even and both O2s are reading the way they should.
I'm still a little concerned that the Densos that were in there were less than four years / 10,000 miles old. I would have figured they would have lasted quite a bit longer than that.
Posted on: 2014/6/14 14:53
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Re: DTC 44 and wildly split BLMs at idle |
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Did your car actually run with two wires unplugged?
Posted on: 2014/6/12 20:40
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Re: DTC 44 and wildly split BLMs at idle |
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Quote:
Thanks Matt. I actually found that site during my many searches. I'm beginning to think the whole split BLM thing is just the LT1's nature, and a lot of owners are bangin' their heads against the wall for nothing trying to figure it out. The LT1's intake manifold was significantly different than the L98's, obviously. Maybe the larger, more open plenum and short runners on the LT1, when combined with OBD1 / batch fired / speed density configuration of the early LT1s contribute to it. I think it's also an issue in the '94 - '96 LT1s too, but to a lesser extent. Granted, my BLMs are WAY split, so there's probably something more afoot in my case. If the driver's side is lean enough to kick out an O2 lean code, something's not quite right. If I get some time this weekend, I'm going to pull a couple of plugs and see what they're looking like, and maybe swap the O2 sensors side-to-side. Thanks for the help guys! Ron
Posted on: 2014/6/12 18:07
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Re: Damned Coolant Temp Sensors.... again... |
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Andy, out of curiosity, do you need to drain the cooling system in order to replace the temp sensor?
I've heard of the temp sensors causing all kinds of grief, and while the one in my '92 is doing ok (knock wood), I know it's probably just a matter of time. Just wondering how much of a p.i.t.a. they are to change.
Posted on: 2014/6/12 17:57
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DTC 44 and wildly split BLMs at idle |
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Here's a fun one for you Gurus...
A couple days ago, I picked the Vette ('92 coupe with 75k miles) up from the mechanic where it received a new brake master cylinder. Drove it home with my wife following behind in her car. I pulled in the driveway and while waiting for my wife to park her car and jump in the Vette, my SES light comes on. I decide to check it when we get back from dinner. After driving away, the SES light goes out about half way to the restaurant. When we got home, I pulled out the scan tool and found a DTC 44 - Left O2 sensor lean. I started the engine to check out the live data on the scan tool and found my BLMs wildly split at idle. I had 160 on the left and 108 on the right. I believe both of those figures are the max of the available range. The car has NEVER idled smoothly in the five years we've owned it, but when we were driving to the restaurant my wife commented that the car felt like it was "chugging" a bit more than usual while idling. Like I said, it has always had a rough idle with a very slight miss here and there. Yesterday, I went out with the scan tool again and started the car cold. Once the system went into closed loop, BLMs at idle were showing rich on both sides, around 110-115. When I applied a little throttle, everything smooths out and BLMs hover around 124-132; about normal. Left and right integrators were right on at 128 +/- a couple of digits. Take your foot off the accelerator and BLMs dropped back to 108 - 110 on both sides and the idle gets rough. I let the car sit there and idle, feeding a little bit of throttle every so often until the coolant temp got up to normal range. Now get this: once the coolant temp hit about 200 degrees, I actually watched the BLMs start to split at idle, the left slowing climbing until it hit 160, and the right slowly dropping until it hit 108. How in the world does the system go from being so rich to being so lean? I'm guessing the crappy idle is due to the system being so unbalanced in its fueling at idle, and I'm also guessing the imbalance is somehow related to changes in engine vacuum. The car accelerates strong with zero hesitation and runs smooth when driving. I even gets decent gas mileage. It's running a 52mm aftermarket throttle body, a K&N filter, Racetronix OE equivalent aftermarket injectors, Magnaflow high-flow cats and a Corsa cat-back system. Otherwise, its all stock. Plugs and wires are about three seasons old. O2 sensors are Denso units and are also about three seasons old. I still need to check fuel pressure and put a vacuum gauge on it to see what's going on in those areas. What is it with LT1s that causes this crazy split BLM? I've done a Google search on that and there are TONS of threads about it, but nobody really seems to have discovered the root cause of it. A lot of the cases are guys who've installed aftermarket cams and such, but that's not the case here. Ron
Posted on: 2014/6/7 17:44
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Re: How many C4 owners are seriously considering a C5 or C6? |
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The president of my former Corvette Club just bought a Velocity Yellow / Black '14 Stingray Z51 ragtop. I got a chance to sit behind the wheel this past weekend at a local cruise-in. The car is beautiful, inside and out. He traded in an equally beautiful '94 convertible on the 'Ray. All he can keep saying is "What a difference 20 years makes."
For me, no plans whatsoever to break up with my '92. First, it would be financial suicide. I probably have twice what the car is worth invested in it. Makes WAY more sense to just keep driving and enjoying it. And second, the car is just part of the family now. It would be along the lines of giving away a beloved pet. There's just no way. I'd be heartbroken to walk out in the garage and not see it there.
Posted on: 2014/6/5 17:53
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Re: Wednesday 30 April 2014 We are back Chat!!! |
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Even though I don't post here much anymore, I still lurk, read and learn. When I saw the errors that came up when I went to corvetteguru.com, my heart sank. I thought it was gone for good, but like others, I found the CorvetteGuru FB page and saw the new URL.
Thank you so much Andy, for keeping this place going. Personally, I think it's the finest Corvette resource on the web. Ron
Posted on: 2014/4/30 18:04
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Re: Theoretical discussion: FPR and hydro-lock |
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Aaaah, the vacuum line. I forgot about that going directly into the intake manifold. Yeah, I guess at about 100 p.s.i., that would spray quite a bit of fuel into the intake.
Hmmm...I'm starting to look at my original 22 year old FPR with suspicion. I might have a little winter project for myself. Thanks Andy! Ron
Posted on: 2013/10/17 19:54
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Theoretical discussion: FPR and hydro-lock |
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A friend who has a 1994 convertible recently contacted me with a few questions about an incident he had with his Vette. He had gone out to start his car, and after it started it died within a few seconds. He went to start it again and it wouldn't even crank. Dead in the water. He had the car towed to his mechanic. A short while later his mechanic called to inform him that the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator had completely failed, causing the engine to hydro-lock with gasoline. The mechanic said he could smell gas as soon as he lifted the hood, and when he pulled out one of the spark plugs, fuel began to spill out. Eight new plugs, an oil and filter change and a new FPR put the car back on the road. I guess he was lucky that he didn't damage anything like a connecting rod, piston or even crack the block.
So my question is how this could have even happened? Assuming that without a functioning FPR, the fuel rails were hyper-pressurized, but how in the world could that much fuel get past the injectors? I know that in that situation, with each injector pulse, you're getting a LOT more fuel, but I'm trying to rationalize how enough fuel to completely fill all eight combustion chambers could get through. Perhaps I'm underestimating the amount of pressure that the fuel pump can actually generate.
Posted on: 2013/10/17 17:41
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Re: Wow, I just got an incredible offer. |
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I would need an awfully big suitcase. Probably wouldn't fit in the Pantera. Hey Bill, your tag line reads "Every man dies but not every man lives". Glad to see you're living. What a dream. Have fun! Ron
Posted on: 2013/8/14 18:11
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Re: High HC emissions -- redux |
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You learn something new every day! I had NO CLUE you could check for open/closed loop operation with a paperclip! Very cool Matt!
Posted on: 2013/8/1 17:35
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Re: High HC emissions -- redux |
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Quote:
The only way to tell if you're going into closed loop is with an OBD1 scan tool. Something like this: http://www.autoxray.com/product_detail.php?pid=94. Prices for these can vary, and you can find good deals for used ones on eBay. If you do pick one up, since your car is a '91, make sure that it is for OBD1, and that it can read live ECM data. Otherwise, just about every well equipped repair shop / mechanic will have a scope or scan tool that can tell what's going on with your system as well. Ron
Posted on: 2013/7/31 17:21
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Re: Tues chat 7-30-2013 |
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Make sure you have it pointed at an empty field when you go to test the brakes for the first time Matt! 
Posted on: 2013/7/30 21:19
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Re: Tues chat 7-30-2013 |
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Hah! I happen to have one of those! This is Tiki, he's a 16 year old Dusky Headed Conure, and one of the two "featherkids" that share our home with us. He can make quite a racket when he wants. That's where my screen name comes from. 
Posted on: 2013/7/30 21:17
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Re: Monday chat 29 July 2013 |
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Quote:
SHWING!!!
Posted on: 2013/7/29 22:11
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Re: In Memorium |
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Another member of the Greatest Generation gone. My condolences on your loss. Raise a glass for a life well lived.
Posted on: 2013/7/29 22:05
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Re: High HC emissions -- redux |
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I think it still might be worth pulling a few plugs and checking them. Even with only 5k on them, given the condition of your main cat, and the fact that your HCs are still high (though passing at low idle), I'm betting that you've been blowing high HCs for a while now and your plugs may be pre-maturely toasted. I really think you're dealing with a lack of proper combustion (i.e., poor ignition). High HC pretty much means unburned fuel is making it through the entire exhaust system. I don't think there's anything that will destroy a cat like yours was faster than high levels of HC.
Posted on: 2013/7/29 21:57
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Re: High HC emissions -- redux |
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Couple of questions...
Did you replace just the main cat, or the pre-cats too? What kind of shape are your plugs? How fresh is the gas in your tank?
Posted on: 2013/7/29 20:46
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Re: Thinking Of Driving The 1985 Back And Forth Across The US Next Year ... |
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This is a really great thread. I've often had the same moments of doubt about my '92. So much so, that we actually cancelled our trip to the NCM last summer, and I'm only about 5 hours away. But yet, I drive this car almost daily during the summer months, back and forth to work through some of Chicago's tougher neighborhoods, across some of the crappiest roads and heaviest traffic in the nation, to numerous club events and on long pleasure cruises, and she's never let me down. Granted, the car is in exceptional condition and is well maintained. I try to stay on top of everything. It starts with a tap of the key, idles as nicely as an old LT1 can idle, accelerates without stumbles or hesitation, stops with authority, tracks straight, is free of squeaks and rattles, and is without a doubt the most comfortable car I currently own. The Corvette is GM's flagship vehicle, is built in its very own dedicated assembly facility, and gets the lion's share of GM's engineering effort.
Yet, when I'm faced with the prospect of a trip to a destination more than 100 miles away, I look at it and see only a 20+ year old GM product that was built during a time when the company was fat and sloppy. And that's when my stomach starts getting a bit queasy. Why is that?
Posted on: 2013/7/29 18:09
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Re: Met Mike Antonick at Bloomington Gold |
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Cool story Ron!
I love digging out my old 1980 edition of the CBB, and then flipping through the pages of the current edition and marveling at all of the changes that have taken place over the years. Think about it: The C4 was still in the early stages of development at that point, and they were still being built in St. Louis. LOVE the Corvette Black Book!
Posted on: 2013/7/1 21:09
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Re: And we have a winner! |
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Quote:
They're in the very first photo gallery... http://crownpointvettes.org/pb/wp_123093eb/wp_123093eb.html
Posted on: 2013/7/1 19:51
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Re: And we have a winner! |
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Yeah, I'm actually watching the folks from the NCM going over the car's features with him now. Getting some good screen captures for the club website!
Posted on: 2013/7/1 18:10
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And we have a winner! |
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One of the members of our Corvette club bought a raffle ticket from the NCM back in the spring. He was contacted last Thursday and his ticket was the winner! He's at the NCM right now picking up his 2013 427 Convertible.
 Glen and his wife are two of the nicest people you'll likely ever meet, and I can't think of two better people for this to happen to. If you read this post within next hour or so, you can click the web cam link below to catch a glimpse of the car in the bottom left corner. http://www.corvettemuseum.org/webcam/camera2.shtml
Posted on: 2013/7/1 17:44
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Re: Who drove their Corvette to work today? |
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I worked from home last Friday, but I drove it in today! Beautiful day in Chicago.
Posted on: 2013/7/1 17:21
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Re: Happy Anniversary!!! |
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Congrats to you and your Vette Andy! May the two of you have many more enjoyable years together!
And thanks for creating one of the best Corvette resources on the Web! Ron
Posted on: 2013/7/1 17:15
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Re: ECU going out? |
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Friday the 28th is "Drive your Vette to work" day?! I had no clue. And of course, I work from home on Fridays. 
Posted on: 2013/6/27 19:57
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Re: ECU going out? |
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Senior Guru
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Wow, when it rains it pours!
It sure sounds like an ECM/ECU. You're right on with checking the ground like you did. I'm not too familiar with the OBDII cars, but before you drop the dough on a new unit, have you tried disconnecting the negative battery cable for a while to reset the ECU? Leave it off for a few minutes, and maybe even try turning the ignition switch on and off a few times while the battery is disconnected, just to make sure there isn't any residual voltage still lurking somewhere. If there's at least SOME change when you restart the car after having the battery disconnected, that would likely narrow things down a bit closer to being the ECU. "The car does have a funky idle but runs great at partial and wide-open throttle." Man, if I had a dime for every time I've heard that from an LT1 owner. I'm beginning to think that's normal for all LT1s, mine included. Ron
Posted on: 2013/6/25 22:09
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Re: High HC emissions -- redux |
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Senior Guru
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I guess that's up to you. If you're looking to do the bare minimum to get your car to pass, try replacing just the main cat. If you're looking to replace/update all of the old emissions-related exhaust components, replace them all. When I discovered that the passenger side cat on my car had started to deteriorate, I bit the bullet and went ahead and replaced them both. I figured it was likely just a matter of time before the driver's side started to go. In my last post, I meant to say if the product description states "49-state", it's legal for sale/use in any state outside of California, including New Jersey.
Posted on: 2013/6/25 17:35
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Re: High HC emissions -- redux |
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It's legal in NJ: http://www.magnaflow.com/02catalytic_ ... ogid=2918&directfit=93441 I've actually running the LT1 versions of these same cats on my '92 for the last two years. I passed Indiana's sniff test with flying colors. With the stock exhaust, they added a little bit of bass tone too.
Posted on: 2013/6/25 17:26
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Re: C4 front and rear spoilers are almost ready for production |
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Senior Guru
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All this talk about front air dams and spoilers made me think back four years ago when we first bought our Vette. Like most driveways, the apron at the end of mine had a regular old curb. And I would crunch the air dam coming and going, no matter how slow I crawled. Literally, two weeks after I brought the car home, the water main in front of my house sprung a leak. I had water coming straight up through a crack in the curb and flooding my street. I called my town hall and they sent out a crew to investigate. One month later, I had a complete new curb AND a nice new driveway apron that smoothly ramps down to meet the street! Talk about perfect timing! I never owned a Corvette while my parents were alive, but they both knew I always wanted one. To this day my wife still claims that was a little gift from Heaven, sent by my parents.
Posted on: 2013/6/20 21:49
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Re: F/S 1992 6spd Coupe |
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Senior Guru
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I just lost two precious minutes of my life moving my mouse arrow up and down between the 2nd and 3rd pictures in that listing, and watching the car blink at me. Then I noticed the wheels were on backwards and now I'm dizzy.  
Posted on: 2013/6/17 21:56
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Re: High HC emissions -- redux |
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I'd be surprised that a leak in FRONT of the throttle body blades would cause high HC at idle, since theoretically the blades should be nearly sealed/closed at idle. A vacuum leak BEHIND the throttle body blades would be a different story. And I don't believe '91 had a mass airflow sensor either. But like Andy said, slap a bit of duct tape on those holes for a temporary fix and see if things change.
Posted on: 2013/6/17 21:29
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Re: Adios |
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A nearly new C6 for well under $30k. Some guys have all the luck. Congratulations! I gotta' say, the C6 looks really good in that color. My favorite.
Posted on: 2013/6/15 19:29
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Re: EGR theory and high flow exhausts |
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I do recall looking into those ports and I do recall them being a bit sooty and kinda' nasty looking. I thought about what I might be able to do to clean them a bit, but pretty much realized that short of pulling the intake off, there's really not a lot one can do about those. I didn't think it was a good idea to try to clean them with the intake still on for fear of bits of gunk falling back into the ports.
Posted on: 2013/6/14 18:38
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Re: EGR theory and high flow exhausts |
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Senior Guru
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BTW, I hope that other readers here aren't too put off by my lengthy/wordy posts. I know that I do have a tendency to get carried away, but sometimes when I'm troubleshooting or trying to work through a technical concept, it helps to write it all out, and bounce it off of others who know their stuff. My posts sorta' become notes to myself that I can go back to. Hopefully, others find them useful too. I work in IT, and do a fair amount of technical writing, so I guess it's just second nature.
Posted on: 2013/6/14 2:41
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Re: EGR theory and high flow exhausts |
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Senior Guru
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Actually, with Andy's comments and these two links that I found, I get it... http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt26.pdf http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt27.pdf After reading those two links, it hit me that an EGR valve in operation is actually opening and closing rapidly. The negative backpressure valve uses manifold vacuum underneath the diaphragm to more or less "suck" the valve closed, while vacuum, when applied by the EGR solenoid, from the vacuum port above the diaphragm pulls it upward. The counteracting forces combined with a sealing/unsealing of a port in the diaphragm causes the valve to open/close rapidly. What they refer to as "dithering" in the links. I was under the impression that when the solenoid provides vacuum to the port on EGR valve, it held it open constantly. Nope. Vacuum applied at the vacuum port allows the valve to flap. With no vacuum applied to the port, "negative" manifold vacuum below the diaphragm, plus spring pressure, holds it constantly closed. At least I think that's how it works. ;) I'm thinking that in my situation, it's not necessarily the EGR valve or solenoid that caused the code 32. It was just that the ECM saw something non-optimal in the O2 reading at the time it ran the code 32 test, so it "blamed" it on the EGR. It's been a while since I ran a Datamaster data log. Time to go for a ride.
Posted on: 2013/6/14 2:28
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EGR theory and high flow exhausts |
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Gurus, looking for some enlightenment regarding the EGR system.
Background: '92 coupe, 73k miles, stock LT1 save for a 52mm Performance Products throttle body, Magnaflow high flow cats, and a Corsa cat-back installed just this Spring. Plugs, wires and 02 sensors are all less than 3 years / 10k miles old. Stock tune. The car runs just about flawlessly. On the way home from work last week, my SES light came on. Car continued to run fine, no issues. When I got home, I scanned it and found a code 32 - EGR failure. It had thrown this code once before, a couple of years ago. This was right about the time I was chasing down an on-again/off-again high idle situation that turned out to be a flaky ECM. At the time, I wasn't sure where the code 32 would have come from, so I went ahead and pulled the EGR valve just to see what kind of condition it was in. It was obviously original and was really caked up with gunk in the passages, so I figured screw it, and I replaced it with a Borg Warner OE equivalent (part #EGR1098). Until just last week, the car hadn't thrown a code since. So now, my curiosity is getting the best of me, and I'd like to understand this more. I dig out my FSM and start reading through the section for troubleshooting a code 32. From what I can tell the ECM will run a code 32 test, for the most part, when the car is under cruising conditions (speed greater than 50 mph, TPS within a low percentage range, MAP readings within a certain range, and EGR in an active duty cycle). It appears the test consists of the ECM stopping the EGR duty cycle for a short period of time, and if it doesn't sense a certain change at the 02 sensors in response, it will light up a code 32. Ok, got that. But one of the things I read is that the car is equipped with a "negative backpressure" type of EGR valve. So I start digging around on the Web and find all sorts of info on how EGR systems work and the difference between negative and positive backpressure EGR valves, and for the life of me, I can't seem to wrap my head around this negative/positive backpressure thing. I also find evidence that a high-flow exhaust system can play games with EGR functionality, but supposedly negative backpressure systems are somewhat less susceptible to this. So basically, I'm trying to get clear on the difference between a positive and negative backpressure EGR valve, and also to see if anyone else has installed an aftermarket exhaust and seen EGR issues afterward. Any thoughts? Ron
Posted on: 2013/6/13 21:43
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Re: Glass targa top question... |
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I tried what I said I was going to do, but found that even with all of the plates loose and the four attachment bolts partially started, the top really doesn't move much at all and where it sits is pretty much where it sits. I went ahead and tightened everything back down and I'm not in too bad a shape. The top still sticks up a bit on the passenger side, but I did get some improvement. The thing is my air leak is gone. I took my wife for a ride and she said it was a 100% improvement from the first time around. I could tell the interior was quieter right off the bat.
Unfortunately, it does still leak a bit when hit with a hose. Even though it looks perfect, I'm starting to think my A-pillar weatherstrip install isn't quite right. I've checked it and double-checked it. Even went so far as to partially remove it and seal both outer edges of the WS channel along the entire length of the top of the windshield frame with strip caulk and then reseat the WS. Water is still getting in from somewhere. It seems to leak with both tops, but a little more with the glass. Ah well, I have neoprene seat covers that dry quickly. ;)
Posted on: 2013/4/29 17:38
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Senior Guru
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Actually the rear brackets are adjustable. You guys got me thinking. I'm willing to bet I'm just dealing with a misaligned top. I think what I'll try is to take everything apart again, loosen all four of the plates, put the top back on and then get each attachment bolt started, but NOT completely tightened. I should then be able to move the top into complete and proper alignment. Then I can tighten everything back down and see how it goes. What I had done originally was get the rear attachment bolts completely tightened down, and then I tightened the rear plate securement bolts, and then I moved to the front and did the same thing. I had a BITCH of time getting the driver's side rear attachment bolt to grab ahold at first. It took about 20 minutes of serious pushing pulling and grunting before it finally took. So perhaps I just didn't have things aligned properly before I did the final clamp down on all the bolts.
Posted on: 2013/4/26 12:56
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