bogus wrote:

Welcome back!!

The alternator is dead... long live the alternator.

When they start humming, you can be assured that the voltage regulator, the diodes or both have died.

One more trick, restart the engine, put a long screwdriver on the chassis of the alternator and put your ear to the handle. Listen... is it really loud? The answer will be yes and that goes along with... The deduction is simple... noise? check. Low voltage? Check. Buy new alternator, or, get yours rebuilt by a good local shop (they still exist!).

pr0zac wrote:
Seeing as how he said it used to work in third definitely points to low fluid because it couldn't maintain pressure in both circuits. And if you were to cross your t's and dot your i's you should have replaced the torque converter after he attempted to fix it the first time. It sounds as though your "mechanic" isn't all that well versed in transmissions. Buy a rebuilt trans with a converter and save yourself a headache.

bogus wrote:
Damien,

I read prozacs comment.. but the news is actually worse...

The 700R4 has a tendency to break inside. When you lose third gear like that, it's because the input shaft to the 3/4 gear pack has broken - cut clear off, literally!

In Malta... damn, dude, I don't know what to suggest off hand. You may want to reach out to fellow Guru Sliding. He is in Croatia and is currently replacing his automatic with a 6spd manual. Perhaps you two could make a deal if his automatic is in good condition still.

I imagine that shipping from Croatia might be a ton cheaper than coming from the USA.

A few cars that transmission was use in, where you might get a decent used box to get back on the road with. All are 1985-1992 with 4spd OD automatics:

Chevy and GM pickup trucks (2 wheel drive) 1500 series
B-Body sedans- Caprice, Impala, Big Buicks and Cadillac Deville's
Firebird and Camaro (with V8s)

There is a difference... the way OD works on the Vette allows it to run up to top speed, but I get the feeling that really doesn't matter as much as the car actually RUNNING does.

Also, you would have to change the tailshaft housing from the other vehicle to the C4.

My thinking here is finding a used one, put it in to get back on the road and then worry about getting the Corvette box rebuilt when you have time, money or resources.

I will get PeteK to chime in. He is THE guru when it comes to transmission issues. I know he can help. He is sure as sure can be that anyone can rebuild one of these boxes, and he has a number of tech threads: http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... hp?topic_id=10612&forum=1

That outline transmission related issues and repairs. I would start there.

Pete can also direct you to parts... in your case, GM of Europe may be the cheapest place - Opal or Vauxall.

84Xfire wrote:
First off, DON'T do an exchange!...I'm going through this on my 700R4. The 700R4's that are in the 'vette have been worked to fit the car, not to mention the fact that they were made for 10 years and were made for 5 different vehicles. You wouldn't want a transmission for your '89 from an S-10 pickup, would you?

Bottom line: rebuild your transmission if at all possible.

Aboatguy wrote:
yes... 0.473 liters = 1 pint

BillH wrote:
Quote:

damien89 wrote:
I have a question, what difference does it make if the pad have been bedded in or not? Does it contribute to my problem?

Only the bias issue, NOT the low pedal.

Most people incorrectly think that brake pads ride and clamp on the steel rotor. They do not, they clamp to an adherent layer of brake pad material deposited there by propper bedding.

BTW, before you install the new rears, clean your discs. Use Scotchbrite abd lotsa brakeclean. The 2 inch pads and a drill work best but it can be done by hand.
And it can be done with the discs on the car.

bogus wrote:
pad bedding will help with better force transfer and heat removal.

I am willing to bet you have a master cylinder failing. Check the area where the master meets the booster. if it's weeping, time for something new.

BillH wrote:

Quote:

damien89 wrote: As for the pads bedding i did a few stops from 60mph then let the brakes cool by driving and using the brakes as least as possible if i remember correctly.  That's probably not enough, you need to smell the pads and then let them cool.

 

 I have never checked the wheel bearings but i don't think that they have much play in them as the vette only has 20500miles.

 

As for brake fluid i was thinking more like Motul rbf600 or Castrol react srf. The castrol lma is almost the same spec as the one i'm using in regards to the dry/wet boiling points. That is way overkill, especially for the $$$ and it's not needed, your problem is something else.

 

 Could it be that because this vette sits in a garage most of the time in winter it absorbs moisture alot more then other cars which are used? Nope. 

 

As for the bias issue i have hawk hp on the front and the normal semi metallic pads on the rear, could this be another thing to cause this problem? Anyone have any other opinions? Bingo, yes, change the rears. Some production racecars use different pad  material front & rear to change bias, it's a real bitch to get it right.

Bedding in the pads - 3 stops 30mph to 5 (do not totally stop the car), 5 stops 60 to 5 with medium pedal pressure, 2 stops from 80 to 5 with heavy pedal pressure. then stay off the brakes until you can park it.

If the brakes are still hot, move the car 1 foot every minute 5 or 6 times (helps the rotors).

j3studio wrote:
Picture, please.

Also, I'm assuming that you have a 1989 - is that correct?

istter1 wrote:
Quote:

damien89 wrote:
Quote:

istter1 wrote:
So have you solved the problem yet?


Steve

No not yet, i checked the fuses and their all good,
My suspect is the the on/off switch on the lever becuase when i turned it
Off last time it worked it came out a bit and since then everytime i turn it on i dont hear the click that the solenoids make, but to tell you the truth i have no idea how i can test the switch on the steering column lever.

Well so far this has been a good place to find the answers. I don't have that problem yet, but it would be nice to know before it happens to me.

Steve

istter1 wrote:
So have you solved the problem yet?


Steve

toptechx6 wrote:
If your 89 is the same as my 93 I understand your confusion. There are two oil pressure sending units, one has 3 wires, on my 93 the green wire is hot at all times, the red wire provides back up power to the fuel pump after oil pressure reaches approx 5 psi, the tan wire is the variable ground for the gauge.

The sender with a single wire (lt. blue on my 93) is just a switch that illuminates the check gauges lamp if oil pressure is low.

The wiring diagram in my FSM does not show the 3 wire sender correctly, rather it shows the different functions in two sections of the wiring diagrams, the diagram for the fuel injection shows the green and red wire only, the diagram one for the instrument cluster shows the single tan wire.
I would check your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, if the mechanical gauge reads correctly I would replace the three wire sending unit.

istter1 wrote:
Quote:

95vette wrote:
Most often it is the electrical switch on the brake pedal that goes bad. But first I would check that it is holding vacuum.

This is what I was told to try and it was the vacuum.

Good luck
Steve

NC Kid wrote:
Probably the year model.

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

hdfire wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Welcome to the site. The first test you have to do, as mentioned, is check for fuel pressure at the rail. Then you can look for the cause of the problem.

If it is the fuel pump, I recommend either AC Delco or as mentioned a walbro fuel pump is very good. You do not need a 255 lph pump. I have the walbro 190 lph to feed my 383 stroker and it works just fine. I purchased mine from racetronix with the install kit and it was great.

http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititems.asp?kc=FPA-011&eq=

or just type in fpa-011 in their search box.

Matthew

Just ordered my new pump kit from racetronix. I'm sure this is my problem too Matthew!
Thanks for the link.

I did a write up on changing the fuel pump in the tech library. If you need help let me know.

Matthew

SpectatorRacing wrote:
Quote:

damien89 wrote:

What i was also going to do before my mechanic comes with his gauge was to disconnect the line going in the fuel filter and turn the key on, when the pump tries to prime the system I'll see if fuel comes out. What do you all think about that?

If fuel doesn't come out then most probably is the pump right?

You'll probably just make a mess. The pump could be too weak to start the car, but still strong enough to push gas through the line. If nothing comes out, sure, but I'd wager that some gas will flow.

JeffK wrote:
I got the kit from Racetronix when my pump went. It was a great package.

I agree with Andy, get a new pump and filter.

Had the car presented any other problems previously?

Ultraman wrote:
Quote:

damien89 wrote:
Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
Hi welcome to the site. Hope you can hang out with us. There is a lot of things it can be as Andy is saying. If it is the fuel pump a good one I think is a Walbro 255 pump. They may be a bit more money but I think the quality is there.

A company called Specter Werkes makes a kit for the C4 that provides a new sock and gaskets and screws and such. You could check that out at www.spectergtr.com Thanks for signing up lots of knowledge about Corvettes here and some fun too.

I searched their site and lokks like they haven't got a pump for the 89 vette, they have for the 84-85 and 90-96 models and ZR1.

Thanks anyway.

I had to dig a bit for it but it is on there. It's a Racetronix GSS340M fuel pump. Part # RXC569-FPA-B Enter fuel pump 1989 corvette in their search function and it will come up.

Ultraman wrote:
Hi welcome to the site. Hope you can hang out with us. There is a lot of things it can be as Andy is saying. If it is the fuel pump a good one I think is a Walbro 255 pump. They may be a bit more money but I think the quality is there.

A company called Specter Werkes makes a kit for the C4 that provides a new sock and gaskets and screws and such. You could check that out at www.spectergtr.com Thanks for signing up lots of knowledge about Corvettes here and some fun too.

bogus wrote:
Malta! Welcome!

It does sound like the fuel pump. It could also be the fuel pump sock filter.

At the bottom of the pump is a white (well, when they are new) filter sock. It is about 8cm x 2cm and attaches to the bottom of the fuel pump. If that falls off, it can make picking up fuel harder, or, if it clogs.

Also, the main fuel filter, which is on the right front frame rail (by the exhaust!).

Since you are far out in the middle of no where, I would order a new fuel pump, new sock and new fuel filter.

The new filter is easy, if the pump decided to spew garbage up the fuel line, it would be clogged... and depending on when the car last was run, the fuel line might be clogged.

That would be easy to fix with an air compressor! Just remove the fuel delivery from the tank and disconnect it at the fuel filter and blow! If there is a clog, that might free it.

Also, when you replace the pump, get a good one. I have been researching them lately, because the replacement ones are just not that good. I will have to dig up the names I was looking at. I will get that info later today.