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Sheet Molded Compound.

This is the material that all C4 Corvettes are made of.

It's similar to fiberglass, but much more durable.

The onl...
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Re: rear spring
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Thanks I'll try v2v.

Posted on: 2016/11/18 19:13
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rear spring
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I'm getting old(er) and want a softer spring in the rear. Going down the hwy and hitting an expansion joint that sticks up makes the car jump to the right. The front impact is not bad but the rear is really getting to me. My car is a 93 with nitto 315s in the back, new bilisten shocks. I have found the 93 rear spring is a 39.9 rate and the 96 is a 26.0 what ever that means, supposedly the 96 spring is the softest. It is code RR I believe but what I am wondering is where I can find one? Thanks
PS; I heard that ordering one from GM is a crap shoot they send you the spring they have no matter what you request.

Posted on: 2016/11/17 15:15
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Re: suspension T and F AND Q's
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where is the pdf on the banski rear suspension kit/
ok finally found it.

Posted on: 2016/10/20 1:27

Edited by bam on 2016/10/20 2:04:19
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Re: Who likes engine porn?
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wow! First time seeing this, did I miss it-what will you use for intake, ECM?

Posted on: 2015/11/15 14:56
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Re: 93 vett ABS/ASR code DTC72
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Thanks for all the info Matatk. I do not have the DTC 41 only the 72. Tomorrow I will try the rest of the diagnosis w/o the tester that way I think I can find the bad wire, well see.

Posted on: 2015/10/3 3:23
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Re: Fast XFI - LT1
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"What are you using to drive the ICM?"
Are you talking about the coil module? If so that is driven by the crank trigger and then the Holley ECM. The FAST can give you sequential and coil on plug if you want it, someone made a disc that you put in the opti to accomplish all this but I can't remember who. If you really want to know I could try doing some google searches and see if I can find that company again.

Posted on: 2015/10/2 15:03
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Re: Fast XFI - LT1
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I installed the Holley hp on my 93 LT1 with a crank trigger, I would imagine it's pretty much the same for the Fast. You will want to keep the stock ECM for you gauges in the dash I would think, I would leave the stock ECM and unplug stuff from it only as you replace it with a new sensor from the Fast. Hope this goes good for you, I live about 90 miles north of you.
Do you plan to stick with the stock opti?

Posted on: 2015/9/30 15:01
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Re: 93 vett ABS/ASR code DTC72
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NO never stalled, have been replacing all the hard brake lines coming out of the ABS unit, two were leaking bad and all the rest (7 total) were badly rusted. Just got finished yesterday, it took a LONG time to totally bleed the brakes. Took it out for a drive and still have the code so hopefully I can start working on that now.

Posted on: 2015/9/28 14:53
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93 vett ABS/ASR code DTC72
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The dash lights for the ABS/ASR are on all the time, I also do not hear the system self test after initial drive up to 6 mph. I am getting only DTC72, FSM says in the first step of diagnosis; "install off-board device" I assume this is some factory tester but don't know for sure, any ideas how I can start working on this? Thanks for any help.

Posted on: 2015/9/15 14:36
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Re: I just bought a KENT MOORE J-35890 ABS test box
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Ok thanks

Posted on: 2015/9/15 14:32
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Re: I just bought a KENT MOORE J-35890 ABS test box
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I know this is an old thread, thanks for getting back anyway. My vett is a 93 ABS/ASR code DTC72 is showing and the lights for both on the dash are lit all the time. FSM says in the first step of diagnosis to "install off board device" I assume this is the kent moore tester? Anyway it seems that without this tool I am stuck, was looking for some help or maybe even putting a deposit on you tool and paying for shipping both ways if you are still loaning it.

Posted on: 2015/9/14 16:10
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Re: I just bought a KENT MOORE J-35890 ABS test box
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Is this tool still available for "rental"?

Posted on: 2015/9/11 16:03
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Re: DTC 44 and wildly split BLMs at idle
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Really glad to hear you most likely got the thing fixed.

Posted on: 2014/6/18 15:28
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Re: DTC 44 and wildly split BLMs at idle
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I have read dozens of threads on this and never really come up with why either. However most people who have this problem are people with aftermarket cams, that is what makes your split BLM's a mystery. You might try swapping injectors from one side to the other, if that doesn't change anything then you know the injectors are probably still good. After that you might try switching the 02 sensors (not very easy with stock exhaust and cats) to see if one of the 02's is bad or reading funny.
I had a problem with my 93 (both 93 and 92 are batch fire, speed density) running very lean on the drivers side, the pass side was normal. It finally turned out to be the drivers side 02, it gave no codes and I could see it reading on the data log but when I put in a new 02 (I always use Delco) the problem went away. Hopefully some other gurus will chime in soon.

Posted on: 2014/6/8 14:31
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Re: Brake Booster Went Boots-up....
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Fantastic!

Posted on: 2014/5/31 0:13
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Re: fueling problem
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Ok problem finally solved. It was apparently the 02 sensor on that (lean) side. It's only 2 yr old, no codes related to it and it was working on the data log but when I replaced it today everything is back to normal, both right side and left side running 14.3-14.7 on my wide band.
Now my service ABS light is on, it just never ends with these cars, haha.

Posted on: 2014/5/31 0:08
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Re: fueling problem
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
have you considered upgrading to LT4 knock sensors? They are designed to ignore the rattle from the roller rockers.


Bogus I did some research on this and I believe that the LT4 knock sensor is really a knock module that was added to the 96 ECM to reduce the sensitivity of the actual knock sensor, does this sound right? Also check me on this; my problem is drivers side very lean (16.0 and up), pass side normal (14.7). If this were caused by timing being pulled why would it effect only one side and not the other? Just asking to see where you are going with you thinking.
As to BLM's they are split but still very close. I can post my latest data log here is that would help.

Posted on: 2014/5/27 15:28
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Re: fueling problem
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Well I eliminated one third of the possible cause of the problem, the injectors. I sent them back to FIC to be flow tested and cleaned, they all flowed fine. So it must be either the 02 sensor or the ECM in my thinking, is there something here I could be missing? By the way FIC is a great company with great service.

Posted on: 2014/5/27 15:24
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Re: fueling problem
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
have you considered upgrading to LT4 knock sensors? They are designed to ignore the rattle from the roller rockers.

I didn't realize there was a difference, I have the hot cam and roller rockers plus LT's, lots of opportunity for noise. I will check into that.

Posted on: 2014/5/19 2:05
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Re: fueling problem
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I'll check my last data log and see, I know I have a lot of knock counts.

Posted on: 2014/5/17 3:24
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fueling problem
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Ever since I put in my LT4 hot cam and LT's I have had a miss that won't go away. It is intermittent and very annoying. Yesterday (after I fixed my ABS) I decided to switch my wide band 02 from the pass side exhaust to the drivers side. I have been tuning with the 02 there (on pass side) for 2yr and have gotten the A/F very close to perfect. When I made the switch the readings were 16/1 A/F ratio and even more lean at times on the drivers side. WOT is around 13.7. I figure it must be either an injector not working properly, bad drivers side 02 (both were brand new and heated after I did the LT's) or the computer. Any thoughts?
I have switched injectors from the new ones (bosch III's from FIC) to the old ones and it made no difference. Also I split the pass side 02 wire and ran that back to the computer for a while and also no difference. I am leaning toward something wrong with my ECM. I have a new Delphi 02 on order so I will replace that and see what happens.

Posted on: 2014/5/16 15:01
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Re: DTC question
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ABS is fixed!!! It was the fluid level sensor/switch in the master cylinder. Amazing O'Rilley auto had one in stock for $14.00. Really these cars are pretty amazing for 20+yr old technology. The car can tell you what is wrong and if you have the Factory manual (a bit cumbersome and very awkward to use yet very good for diagnosing problems) you can do a lot yourself. Thanks for the help.

Posted on: 2014/5/16 14:51
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Re: Corbeau Baja XRS Seat in Black Vinyl
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Bob is a great guy, I have sat in the seat at his shop, I thought they were very comfy and supportive. Hopefully one of these days when I have extra money (haha) I'd like to get a set.

Posted on: 2014/5/9 16:52
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Re: DTC question
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hcbph thanks for the comments, hopefully I can replace the fluid level swith today and see if that fixes it. My ABS has quit working so I would like to get it back.

Posted on: 2014/5/9 16:49
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Re: DTC question
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Kinda slow working on this but I cleared all codes and only the 83 came back after driving. The FSM says to check the fluid level switch for 5 ohms or less, it shows 3. So it says to replace, ordered one today and will see if that fixes the ABS.

Posted on: 2014/5/8 22:57
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Re: Corbeau Baja XRS Seat in Black Vinyl
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Try this site;http://www.autobahnpower.com/products.asp?recnumber=1419 scroll down to see the seats in a c4. The guy who owns this shop is a great guy, his name is Bob. He races a ZR1 with these seats. He can tell you what ever you want to know.

Posted on: 2014/5/8 22:51
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Re: DTC question
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Any thoughts about the 74 from module #1, I checked the prom with my tuning program and the switch for the Auto/Manual tranny is switched to Manual, why then would I get this error code? How is that possible?

Posted on: 2014/4/25 2:43
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Re: DTC question
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Bogus you are right it's with the ABS section. I'll see what I can find there, thanks!

Posted on: 2014/4/25 2:33
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DTC question
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My ABS/ASR light is on. I pulled codes as follows; Module #1 DTC74 Module #4 nothing, Module #9 DTC72 and 83. My question is, my car is a 93 vett. 6 spd. The FM shows no DTC74 or 83 so what is up with that? And it also shows DTC72 as "gear selector switch circuit" for automatic tranny, so how can that be? No codes related to the ABS/ASR at all, any ideas?
I believe module 9 is what controls the ABS right?

Posted on: 2014/4/25 0:43
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Back to this after a long time! I finally got the timing to change in the ECM, I have no idea why it would not change before this?? Anyway the surging/miss is not the timing being too advanced at idle/lower rpm's. I was able to reset the timing in those ranges to 12-18 and it made no difference. I also ran a leak down test; lowest #8 was 87% highest was #3&6 at 93% so I don't think there is a problem with bad valves. I also omed the plug wires, all very good (almost new taylor wires) and new spark plugs NKG's. No broken valve springs.
I am starting to think this is an intermittent miss because I hooked up a timing light and started the engine and watched for a miss and several times I noticed an intermittent lack of fire from the timing light. My question is this; could this be the almost new MSD opti or the ECM? No codes. How would I check w/o just replacing parts?

Posted on: 2013/7/25 17:03
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Re: Weird timing issue
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I am away on business for another week or more. Thanks for looking thru the logs, I know it is time consuming. You are right about there being lots of surging. The funny thing is that for several months it was almost gone, now it is back?? It is making me think it is an intermittent and light miss. I also wonder if it is caused by an injector injecting too much/little fuel or leaking. I checked plugs and the centers look great but around the edge there is a fine black soot. I also omed the wires and the injectors all were fine.

If I do as you suggested above what am I looking for? Should I data log after the above changes?

Posted on: 2013/6/19 14:40
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Re: Cam video's
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I see you have the fast fxi ECM right? How do you like it? Do you see the self tune really working? How does it run the distributor? Did you run the wiring harness yourself?

Posted on: 2013/6/5 22:33
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Re: Cam video's
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super nice car!! Why did you change cams? Sounds like the 114 LSA smoothed out your idle a little?

Posted on: 2013/6/4 1:36
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Yea those splits are horrible!!! I am really happy with my BLM's now, there are a few lean spots in the data log I sent but I have already added a little fuel in those spots. I really think the timing is making the car buck. It must be pretty obvious that if timing is too advanced (don't know for sure if mine is or not) it would cause the motor to buck.
I sent you an email with my latest data log. Thanks for taking a look at it, I have spent hours looking at these things!

Posted on: 2013/5/30 2:40
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Blade, thanks for taking a look. You are looking at my log right and not the one from data master? What do you mean when you say "short term fuel is not right-too low??" What is short term fuel? Is that the "short term counts" right under the BLM's? On my data log they are 114/115 isn't that rich? Notice the BLM's are 128/125 I have worked really hard to get those suckers at close to 128 and no longer split. They were running 140's/ 108's typically and all over the place. I don't think this is a fueling issue any longer but let me know more what you see here that I don't. thanks again.

Posted on: 2013/5/29 13:08
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Here are a couple of screen shots from data master, one from my car, the other was included with the program, you can see the differences in the timing.
http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pho ... alog_zps5c03a47c.png.html
http://s1113.photobucket.com/user/pho ... ster_zps1e75370e.png.html

Posted on: 2013/5/28 23:50
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Quote:

Blade_1 wrote:
Thomas - maybe get forum bosses to merge this thread with the 'Tuning' thread.

Best help (which is most of the guys on guru boards), comes when all the info is in the same thread - easier to scroll back for some detail.

Any luck getting data saved in another format? Maybe a camera snappic of the screen even?

I'd be glad to do a camera shot, which part would you like to see, timing at idle where the problem is? I'll give it a try.

Posted on: 2013/5/28 22:58
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Ok I remembered there are two data logs in with the data master program when you download it. So I took a look at them. Both are Y car's (93 Corvette) one auto the other stick. When I scroll back to areas where the motor is idling, say 700-800 rpm I am seeing 18-22 degree of advance, never any more. That is 10 degrees less than what I am showing, this makes me think something is fishy with the computer, Opti or the prom. I assume these two cars are stock because they both end the WOT runs at 5500 rpm. I have looked back over some of my past data logs and am seeing 20 degrees of advance at idle, now I am at 28 when I went thru the whole table and reduced timing except at WOT and the timing moves up? This is really a mystery.

Posted on: 2013/5/28 22:55
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Anyway the bucking/cam surge is back with a vengeance. I have been able to get my VE tables almost perfect, so I was thinking it might be timing. The bucking/cam surge was almost completely gone, only slightly felt below 1000rpm. Now it is back again all the way to 2000rpm and very annoying, I think this car is going to put me in the funny farm! If I could simply adjust the timing then I would know for sure if that it is it or if I should go on to something else but as it is I have no way of knowing. How can you make a car that you can't adjust the timing on? Ok rant over.

Posted on: 2013/5/28 14:31
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Quote:

djxib wrote:
I've seen that too. The only things I'm aware of that would cause the actual timing to change for a given RPM are the 'closed TPS advance' (that you'll see if you lift off the throttle between shifts) or spark retard due to knock.

I meant to do some research on this a while back but too many projects..

I have noticed however that at WOT the timing is exactly as described at 100KPa unless I get knock (1992).

Assuming your closed TPS advance table maps to your main spark table, 14 degrees at idle sounds very low for your cam, you could try different degrees of advance to get the best vacuum at idle. I run about 30 degrees on mine.

Good luck!

1. Are you saying you have tried to adjust timing in the main spark advance table and it does nothing except at WOT?
2. I will try adjusting the "closed TPS advance" table and see if that does anything. Although I think that must be to use the engine to brake the car when the throttle is closed completely by momentarily bumping the timing up. I notice that is the only time the timing goes down, and that is when I want it to stay the same.
3.It is very hard for me to believe that these LT engines need 30 degrees of advance at idle, that says a very inefficient engine at idle. I know the cam does make a difference but that much?? I can see it at 6000rpm when the dwell of the piston at TDC is split seconds. But at idle why wouldn't you want the timing much closer to TDC. I know when I built a 406 small block with a CC cam it liked 12-14 advance at idle, it would simply not run with stock advance of 8. When I set it I remember it would hardly run with timing over 20 at idle, are LT engines really that much different?

Posted on: 2013/5/27 23:40
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Re: Weird timing issue
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Quote:

pianoguy wrote:
Do you have an MSD opti in it? They have a gizmo in them to supposedly adjust the timing a bit.

I do have the MSD but I want to adjust the timing in the computer, why else would you have "main spark advance vs RPM vs load" table if not to make adjustments? Simply does not make sense to me.

Posted on: 2013/5/27 23:26
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Weird timing issue
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93 LT1, 6 spd (just to remind everyone)
I am doing my own tuning now and have adjusted the "main spark advance vs. RPM vs. Load" tables, I have the timing set at 14 degrees at 800rpm all the way across thru all the KPa from 25 to 100. The weird problem is that when I data log the car at idle I am showing 28 degrees of advance and it is very erratic moving from 25 - 30 while neither the rpm or KPa fluctuates that much. I know from reading the FSM that the opti has nothing to with setting degrees of advance, that is all done by the ECM. So something is going on in the computer right, it can't be anything else? I tried a brand new chip thinking the one I have been using might be corrupted but no difference.
I also know that the computer adds timing advance when the engine is cold so I checked the temp showing in data master and it reads 195 so that can't be it either. Any thoughts? I see nothing in the FSM that tells how to diagnose a problem like this. No codes either.
Any comments, suggestions?

Posted on: 2013/5/26 22:35
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Re: tuning questions
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On the initial hit of WOT I am running 11's on the wide band then it backs off to low 12's, should be ok there.

Posted on: 2013/5/17 1:54
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Re: 93 ragtop's new engine in action
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Nice!!

Posted on: 2013/5/16 13:47
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Re: tuning questions
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Quote:

djxib wrote:


Great question. I did it initially so I could get a true read on the AFR at idle and part throttle cruise (i.e. without the ECM screwing with BLMs). However, when I started testing I realized that the driveability was so much better so I decided to keep it permanent.

Do you mean the BLM's were all over the place so you could not get a clear reading on actual A/F as a basis to start changing the VE table?
How did you set the prom to stay in OL move the temp up where CL kicks in so that the 02's would never come on?
Your wide band 02 is in only one side right? Or do you have two wide band 02's one in each bank of the exhaust, if not then how do you tune the "other" side? Or do you just figure it's not really a problem having one fueling for both banks?
How exactly do you tune your car in constant OL? Do you take the readings of your wide band combined with rpm, KPa data from data master and use that to adjust for lean/rich conditions? How do you know how much to adjust the VE numbers if your data comes from the WB 02?

Posted on: 2013/5/15 16:14
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Re: tuning questions
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Ok one last question; when you went open loop did you do it so you could get away from the sthometric A/F ration of 14.7 and run you car a little richer? Or was it something else too?

Posted on: 2013/5/13 3:02
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Re: tuning questions
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That's a healthy cam for a 350 (or is it a 383?). I would really like to have my wide band log with data master, could you give me more detail about the AC pressure switch, any place I could read up on how to do this, you wide band looks like mine - inovate?
I have split BLM's all through the rpm/KPa bands, so if I want to correct VE tables by dividing the BLM recorded with 128 then use that as a multiplier which BLM do I use since they are split, or do I simply take the average of the two and use that? Say one is 140 the other 120 do I use 130 then?
As for bucking, I call that steady cruise in lower rpm's (1000-1900 where you can't cruise w/o the car "bucking" like a mule. But even very slight acceleration of deceleration will immediately stop it. I have no hesitation when pulling away from a light either with WOT or part throttle. I think what you call cam surge is what I call bucking, it's exactly what I have below 1000 rpm which is really not a problem, the only time I drive that slow in first gear is pulling up the driveway.
My throttle stop screw allows the blades to be completely closed, I have heard you want all the idle air to come thru the IAC, right?

Posted on: 2013/5/9 3:20
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Re: tuning questions
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2010/8/20 19:44
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Nice car!! Green like mine and nitto tires, same as me. You car idles really smooth, I presume you have a cam in it? My whole car shakes when it idles, however I have almost totally eliminated the bucking, it is gone above 1000rpm but if you try to actually drive anywhere below that it bucks still. I do know that some drill out the idle circuit hole in the TB, I may try that though I know it is drill a little see if it helps then open it up a little more, just a little at a time so you don't go too big. I am going to try switching the 02's and then the injectors to opposite banks from where they are now, maybe that will tell me something, maybe not. At least I will know if it the split BLM's are related to those two items or not. When I rebuilt my motor I didn't have the intake boiled out, should have now in retrospect. It was really super dirty inside from the EGR, just got in a hurry to get my motor back together and drive it.
Your wide band has only one 02 right? How do you know then if the other side running? Do you run cats and headers?

Posted on: 2013/5/8 17:10
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Re: tuning questions
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Joined:
2010/8/20 19:44
From missouri
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You run in open loop so that means you never use your 02's right? Was the reason for doing this the supercharger? Or something else? Can you give me a brief idea of how this works? I am thinking that the split BLM's what ever the cause (unless it is vacuum leak, exhaust leak, which I am sure mine is not, I've checked this out really well several times) just makes no sense, there is no hot rodding reason (maybe for fuel mileage or emissions)to have one bank of the engine rich and the other lean all the time. I am thinking of running just one 02 and running it to both banks in the computer and then tune that side with my wide band. That will eliminate split BLM's, any thoughts? A guy with 6 years of working on this stuff, what you have learned is invaluable, thanks for the help.

Posted on: 2013/5/8 12:57
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Re: tuning questions
Senior Guru
Joined:
2010/8/20 19:44
From missouri
Posts: 250
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I really appreciate the comments, feedback here, otherwise one feels lost in the woods!!

I will try your suggestion on the PE, I was going to change it but for now I will leave it alone and do another data log first.

One question I have is; why the two 02 sensors? My 08 Grand Prix only has one located back of where the two manifolds join into one. The timing, map readings, temp readings are all the same for both banks of the engine,if so then why change the fueling. I can still see the split BLM's (although I have not logged since smoothing the VE tables, they may have improved but I doubt it) I am thinking this is because of the hot cam (112 lobe separation) and the LT1 intake short runners?? If I am right the problem is enhanced by having 2 02 sensors which are always trying to compensate for the reversion in the intake and constantly fighting against themselves. Andy any thoughts, have you been able to eliminate or improve on the split BLM issue with these motors?

Posted on: 2013/5/4 14:57
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