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   All Posts (toptechx6)


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Re: Drive by Hi!
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
Caseman is now a cop??? Gee! Great career move, tho!

Good for him. Be sure to tell him we all said hi!!!


Will do Andy, thanks to everyone who replied. :-) I miss the C4 family more than the car, all the best.

Posted on: 2020/10/7 14:50
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Re: Drive by Hi!
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Glad you guys are hanging in there, crazy time for sure. Still e-mail with Casey every once in awhile, he is now a LEO and driving Mercedes instead of the Vette. Stay safe and save the wave!

Posted on: 2020/10/6 18:20
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Drive by Hi!
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Haven't visited for a long time, sold the 93 a few years ago prior to moving to Port St. Lucie. Was planning to post in Off Topic, but did not recognize members posting there now but I still see some familiar names here so thought I'd say Hi. Hope everyone is doing well through this crazy time, stay safe.

Posted on: 2020/10/6 7:53
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Re: 1993 Corvette1G1YY23P2P5111364
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Thanks Andy, good luck to you and the rest of the Guru's.

Posted on: 2016/10/10 8:01
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Re: 1993 Corvette1G1YY23P2P5111364
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Thanks Tommy, I am Vetteless. Built a new house in Port St. Lucie and will need to get rid of most of my toys. The buyer declined many of the parts offered with the car so some are now for sale and others are free to a good home if you or another C4 brother is interested, PM for directions. I enjoyed my C4 and the comradery, but change is part of life. All my best to those still in the club, save the wave!

Posted on: 2016/10/9 19:23
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Re: 1993 Corvette1G1YY23P2P5111364
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Sold.

Posted on: 2016/10/6 18:51
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1993 Corvette1G1YY23P2P5111364
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1993 Corvette coupe, bright aqua metallic, light beige interior (Al Knoch custom replacement) LT1, automatic, 80K on the odometer. Paint is very good, interior is excellent, chrome ZR1 replica wheels, lots of rubber on BFG G-Force T/A (KDWS) 275-40-17
Rear end replaced with Dana 44, 3.45 ratio. 2800 stall torque converter, Crane 1.6 roller rocker arms, aluminum valve covers, Pacesetter shorty headers, Corsa cat back exhaust, performance tune by Ion Soltan, MSD vented opti cap and rotor, water pump new August 2013. J55 big brake upgrade with drilled and slotted rotors and SS braided hoses,Trans-Go shift kit, deep aluminum transmission pan and transmission cooler.
I am the third owner and have had the car 10 years, all service records for that time and previous owner available. Car was sold in Ft. Lauderdale and always owned in Florida. Original sawblade wheels, Dana 36 2.59 rear axle and most other original parts included plus lots of spares including the rare 16184672 PCM with PROM.
I am a retired ASE certified Master auto technician and have done all work myself since car was acquired. The car is my wife’s toy so modifications were focused on street manners and reliability rather than maximum performance, car runs strong but has lots of potential for those who choose to go there.
To get you started a pair of 1996 cylinder heads and a 1993 intake manifold purchased for porting but never installed are included along with a GM Hotcam. Factory service manuals, build sheet, window sticker, owner’s manual and videos and many GM factory Corvette tools including crankshaft hub puller, VATS interrogator, ABS breakout box plus GM training manuals applicable to this vehicle. Everything goes with the car; it looks and drives great please understand upfront the price is not negotiable at 10K. Examine the car on my lift, you will not be disappointed. Serious buyers are of course welcome to drive, joyriders will be treated harshly. 

http://s84.photobucket.com/user/toptechx6/library/vette%20sale

Posted on: 2016/9/14 21:43
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Re: State of the C4
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Another critical part I would add to the list Andy is the TV cable for 92/93 automatic cars. Discontinued by GM and unavailable in the aftermarket. Cables do stretch and wear out, when it happens on a 4L60 you can quickly trash the transmission.

Posted on: 2015/5/27 10:26
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Re: Code 43 - Electronic Spark Control
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If you check the diagnostic tree in the book you will see the code does not indicate the sensor is sensing knock rather it means the ECM detects improper voltage on the circuit. That said I will relate my experience with the same code, on a 93.
On my car the code normally set shortly after a cold start, bear in mind I am in Florida so we are probably talking about nothing colder than 60*.
I ran the diagnostics in the FSM using a DVOM, 5 volt supply to both sensors checked good, resistance of both sensors was within specs but each was different,I don't recall the exact values. I also checked the wiring from the sensors to the ECM, all seemed fine but since it was intermittent I figured a bad connection was the most likely culprit so I replaced both knock sensor connectors without success.
Finally got annoyed and replaced both sensors, the code has not returned, just my experience, your mileage may vary, good luck.

Posted on: 2012/10/4 11:59
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Re: The physics of bigger brakes, wheels, tires
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Since math was always my weakest subject I approached the question differently. First off I talked my wife into the purchase of drilled and slotted rotors based entirely on cosmetic improvement. I did not mention that I would be upgrading the fronts to the larger J55 calipers and rotors at the same time or indicate to her that the replacement rotors would improve braking in anyway.
After replacing the parts my seat of the pants meter said, Wow, it stops better! I did not mention this to Karen for the sake of scientific purity and simply let her take the car to work after the swap to show off the cool looking new rotors.
When she got home the first words out of her mouth were "Wow, it even stops better!"
Sorry for the lack of math to prove the physics of the equation, but her reaction convinces me there that my take was not wishful thinking.

Posted on: 2012/4/18 10:25
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Re: Saturday Chat 01.21.12
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Very nice to finally meet you Tommy, I see you weren't kidding about that camera decapitating your subjects, since Karen and I got the same results, I don't think it is your technique to blame.
I'll post a few from my camera just to prove to the doubters that you and I actually do have heads. Thanks again for making the show, hope we can do it again.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/ ... nsinGlass2012024Large.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/ ... nsinGlass2012003Large.jpg


http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/ ... nsinGlass2012027Large.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/ ... nsinGlass2012013Large.jpg

Posted on: 2012/1/21 22:30
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Re: If you like them wide...
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Here is a gal to go with that car.

[IMG]http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/toptechx6/miscellaneous/fat_ass.jpg[/IMG]

Posted on: 2011/10/19 7:37
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Re: Can anyone help with finding a GM part number?
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You may want to jump on that, God awful price for a TV cable, but at least it is new.

Posted on: 2011/10/18 18:01
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Re: Can anyone help with finding a GM part number?
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Let me know if you strike out, I have a used one I purchased from a forum member to keep as a spare because I knew they were discontinued. Many used parts sellers are reluctant to pull them because of the connection at the transmission and often end up cutting the cable. I paid a premium ($75) to get the one I have.

Posted on: 2011/10/18 10:25
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Re: Can anyone help with finding a GM part number?
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There are actually two part numbers, 92 is 10163848 93 is 10215862. I do not know what the difference is, I think either one should work for your application, however both are discontinued.
I would be surprised if the one from Rock Auto is correct, as you know the cable is unique to those two year Corvettes as they are the only cars equipped with ASR and a TV cable.
Have you tried adjusting your existing TV cable, that is where I would start, good luck.

Posted on: 2011/10/15 8:28
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Re: Looking for a tuner
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Give this a try:

http://www.scotthansen.net/index.html

Pretty sure Guru Mseven does tuning as well.

Posted on: 2011/9/22 9:02
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Re: GM dipstick p/n
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LT4 part numbers are 12553510 for the dipstick, the tube is 12551155, those numbers are the same for 94 through 96 LT1.
I have no idea what the difference is between the early LT1's could be something as meaningless as the mounting bracket or even the handle, I think the one on a 96 is yellow?

Posted on: 2011/8/29 18:45
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Re: GM dipstick p/n
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Dipstick is 10108430, tube is 10108520, both are discontinued.

Posted on: 2011/8/29 17:13
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Re: 96 Engine Miss
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For future reference your 96 is OBDII and is therefore required to have misfire detection, that is what the crankshaft position sensor is used for.
The PCM continually monitors for misfire on each cylinder, but will only set a code or illuminate the MIL when misfire exceeds a certain threshold or percentage of total firing cycles.
Misfire counts can be observed for each cylinder on a scan tool even though a code has not been set, this can be very helpful in situations such as you describe to identify which cylinder has the problem.
Next time you have a scan tool connected to any OBD II vehicle page through the parameters available (PID's) and you will find the misfire list for all cylinders.
To prove to yourself that it works, unplug one of the injectors while watching the misfire monitor and you will see misfire counts on the cylinder with the disconnected injector start to climb. If you leave it unplugged long enough eventually it will set a code and illuminate the MIL.

Posted on: 2011/8/10 9:37
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Re: Another problem, is their a way to check the oil pressure switch/sensor?
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Check the wire colors going to the three wire sender near the distributor, if you find a tan one try grounding it with the simple fused jumper described by Bill H with the ignition key on. If you ground the correct wire to the gauge it should read at the low end of the scale.

Posted on: 2011/8/7 20:26
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Re: Another problem, is their a way to check the oil pressure switch/sensor?
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If your 89 is the same as my 93 I understand your confusion. There are two oil pressure sending units, one has 3 wires, on my 93 the green wire is hot at all times, the red wire provides back up power to the fuel pump after oil pressure reaches approx 5 psi, the tan wire is the variable ground for the gauge.

The sender with a single wire (lt. blue on my 93) is just a switch that illuminates the check gauges lamp if oil pressure is low.

The wiring diagram in my FSM does not show the 3 wire sender correctly, rather it shows the different functions in two sections of the wiring diagrams, the diagram for the fuel injection shows the green and red wire only, the diagram one for the instrument cluster shows the single tan wire.
I would check your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, if the mechanical gauge reads correctly I would replace the three wire sending unit.

Posted on: 2011/8/7 18:16
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Re: Need a quick favor from a guru with an LTx
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My 93 has three studs, one on the extreme right rear that holds a wiring harness bracket, second from front on the right attaches the purge canister solenoid.
On the left side there is one located second from rear that attaches the EGR solenoid.

Posted on: 2011/8/4 13:57
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Re: Buying a TECH-II (27 July Update: Tech-1A?)
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Andy check your PM for some info on Tech1's.

Posted on: 2011/7/27 19:27
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Re: CFI-EFI - sad news
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
I guess I could never get past the style.

For me, I grew up with a parent way too much like him. As such, I told myself as an adult, I didn't need to take that shit, so I didn't.

My Mom, for all of her positives, was much like CFI. Very smart and short of patience. With a bend towards negative reinforcement.

Trust me, for all of his knowledge, I had issues getting past the delivery. He put me on the defensive and that isn't right. I should have taken a higher road, yes, but at the same time, why must I adjust for every strange personality?

I will not deny he helped a lot of people. And perhaps I could have learned more from him if not for my own issues.


That would be the primary reason I rarely visit Guru.

Posted on: 2011/4/23 10:56
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Re: CFI-EFI - sad news
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Our first encounter was a rough one, but I'm glad I did not let it end there, he helped me like many others. Very sad to lose someone with so much knowledge about the cars we love.

Race on.

Posted on: 2011/4/22 15:20
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Re: End of the year Roll Call
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Here.

Posted on: 2010/12/30 8:32
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Re: What's your opinion on the Magnaflow Cat Back for LT-1?
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I think JD's White 93 just put the Magnaflow 3" catback system on his 383, if he doesn't respond send him a PM. As far as I know, he is happy and the price was excellent.

Posted on: 2008/7/19 8:06
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Re: how do u lock a router
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Try the manufacturers web site, they often have user manuals available under Customer Support.

Posted on: 2008/7/11 19:05
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Re: Interesting development, wish me luck
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That is great news Dale, I have everything crossed hoping this works out, you deserve it.

Posted on: 2008/7/11 12:35
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Re: free hydraulic pump for bleeding clutch systems?
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Quote:

94z07 wrote:
I wasn't aware of the "clutch master cylinder". Thanks.


???????

Quote:
I'm going through the bleed proceedure for the clutch hydraulics. It occurs to me that if I had a little pump I could loosen the bleeder screw and push fluid up to the master and resivoir.

Posted on: 2008/7/11 10:54
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Re: PKE Issue (I have been reading a LOT of PKE posts...)
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Quote:

Randy93 wrote:
There is a way to pull the PKE system codes, but if the receiver is bad, it can send a false code showing everything is working.


Yep, you are correct Randy, I think the correct pins are below but check YOUR FSM to verify. The Passive Keyless Entry lamp will flash the codes, to start the key should be in the ignition, but in the OFF position.

[IMG]http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/toptechx6/photobucket%20transfer/12pin-ALDL.gif[/IMG]

93 12 Pin ALDC (short A to H)

[IMG]http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3/toptechx6/photobucket%20transfer/16pin-aldl.gif[/IMG]

94-95 (96 maybe) 16 pin ALDC (short 8 to 12)

Posted on: 2008/7/11 10:08
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Re: Stray fireworks destroy Bensenville man's restored Corvette
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Quote:
Apparently, someone's errant fireworks landed inside the car,


More likely is that he bolted the seats down on top of some wiring when he was doing the interior.

Posted on: 2008/7/11 7:56
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Re: 40,000 Strong!
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40,000 members now? Wow what a jump!

Posted on: 2008/7/10 17:19
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Re: PKE Issue (I have been reading a LOT of PKE posts...)
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Quote:

jhammons01 wrote:
Quote:

toptechx6 wrote:
The multimeter or DVOM

Digital Volt Ohm Meter??


Yes John, sorry for not being clear.

Posted on: 2008/7/10 16:50
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Re: PKE Issue (I have been reading a LOT of PKE posts...)
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Quote:

CSS996 wrote:
Wow... Thanks!

The radio was off, and I do not have the tools you mention. Not something I want to tackle right away. But next time I have the dash apart to remove the radio for repair or replacement, I will see about checking the circuit.

Thanks again.


Can't blame you for not diving right into this one, too much work for what is gained. Don't feel bad about not having a DSO in your tool box, I have a 40 year collection and it is not in my box either. The multimeter or DVOM on the other hand, I consider a must have on our cars, it has many, many uses and they are dirt cheap anymore.

Posted on: 2008/7/10 14:00
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Re: PKE Issue (I have been reading a LOT of PKE posts...)
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Quote:

CSS996 wrote:
Well, I was trying to stay off the site for a week, so I could think about other things... Three days was more than enough of that crap!


OK, so here's the deal. I have tried and tried to search this, because I KNOW the answer has probably been posted any number of times, on several forums. But here's the thing...

NONE of the posts seem to have the exact same problem I do.


Here's where I'm at:

81c3 pulled codes for me a couple weeks ago. None to speak of.

PKE fuse appears to be in working order. I pulled it to "reset" the system, if that actually works...

Key in ignition and turned on.... PKE light on DIC panel illuminates for two seconds and turns off, as it is supposed to.

PKE fob is at the opposite end of the house, and my cell phone is there too. Because I did not want the unit too close, and I hear cell phones can cause problems.


I attempt to program the PKE using the owner's manual. Key on, engine off, push TRIP ODO button twice, then within five seconds, press FUEL INFO button. I hold that sucker in for twenty seconds, to no avail. The PKE light never comes on, to signal program mode.

I've tried this about ten times today, and no luck.


I did, however, replace my headliner today, and took several pix. I will do a write-up soon. The FSM was of no help on this project.




So, can anyone offer suggestions on what I might be doing wrong? Hopefully if I ever get this damn thing working, I like it enough to keep it turned on. I still don't know if the fob is any good. But I have no way of knowing that at this point.


I see one thing missing from your programming procedure that is mentioned in my instructions, that is the reminder to have the radio off. Likely you simply forgot to list that step but thought I would a least toss it out there.
The trouble shooting procedure for failure to enter programming mode in my 93 book is short but not easy to perform with common tools. If CCM codes 13 or 14 are NOT present it requires removal of the upper IP trim pad to access the PKE receiver and a digital storage oscilloscope to check the very brief 5 volt communication pulse between PKE and CCM over circuit 1455. If circuit 1455 integrity is verified replacement of PKE or CCM modules is indicated. Without a DSO about all you can do is check circuit 1455 (black with white tracer)for open or short to ground using a multimeter, if it checks good replacing the PKE receiver is likely the least expensive thing to try, good luck.

Posted on: 2008/7/10 9:13
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Re: D36 swap out
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Nothing to be gained, the batwing is the back cover of the pumpkin and removing it from the car only requires removing two more bolts. When you do the job you will see it would actually be more difficult to use your "short cut", especially going back together.

Posted on: 2008/7/9 14:58
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Re: Disrespect of the National Anthem...
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I think I understand, blacks don't feel the Star Spangled Banner represents them so they sing something else. Based on that logic as a white man who does feel the Star Spangled Banner is my national anthem a black man cannot represent me as president of the US, seems simple enough.

Posted on: 2008/7/4 20:15
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Re: where is casey gone??
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Never liked that damned Aussie anyway, way too opinionated and "absolute" with his advice, no tolerance for more "creative ideas".
Funny thing about that is that those who do things the right way do tend to be somewhat rigid.
Just the same he didn't fit in here, we like "flexible", after all this is more of a social site, perhaps "My Guru Space"or"Guru Book" would be a more appropriate title!

Posted on: 2008/7/3 11:38
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Re: L98 running cold with 195 stat
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
Hm... I wonder why your car went into closed sooner? I use the FAST system.

The temp sensor on the waterpump failed. I am assuming it shorted out internally. At about 140F, it would spaz on the digital temp gauge. The numbers would go all over the place... 170, 30, 190, 20, 130, then, once it reach about 150F, it would settle down. If I happened to stop the car during that period, it would simply die. I had to floor it to restart it... most annoying.

It would then set the H15 code.


I'm not familiar with FAST, is it an added computer that just runs the fuel injection or does it replace the factory ECM entirely? That could easily explain the difference I guess, but that temp seems very high to enter closed loop, seems like it would decrease fuel economy.
The factory ECM uses a shunt circuit in the coolant temp return signal that switches at about the 140* point you mentioned, have to wonder how the two computers interact if FAST is a separate control for injection and the original ECM communicates with CCM?
Does your FAST system still operate the air pump? I imagine that would also affect the transition time to closed loop, just some thoughts on the differences, but it now seems like we are comparing apples and oranges.

Posted on: 2008/6/30 9:51
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Re: L98 running cold with 195 stat
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The numbers I stated came from actual test on my 93, my newer OBDII cars with heated O'2s go into closed loop before the coolant temp reaches 90*, about 1 minute of run time.
You lost me on the heat sensor "failure" does that mean open or shorted? A coolant sensor can read an incorrect value for a given engine temperature without setting a code.

Posted on: 2008/6/29 22:34
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Re: L98 running cold with 195 stat
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Quote:

Gearheadotaku wrote:
Yeah, going closed loop sooner makes sense now that I think about it. Don't have a scan tool to check it with though. There are two sensors at the front of the manifold, one on the head + fan switch. My memory is clearing as we disscuss this. Guage sensor is on the head, along with the fan switch. The cold start sensor and the engine temp sensor are seperate, right? ( the 2 on the front)


Sorry I can't confirm the sensor location on your L98, but it sounds correct. Understand that low engine temperatures can reduce fuel economy even if it is warm enough to be in closed loop.

Posted on: 2008/6/27 10:31
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Re: Cost of 96 OBDII PCM?
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Posted on: 2008/6/27 10:22
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Re: L98 running cold with 195 stat
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
interesting. The stat seems ok...

I wonder if the sensors are just a little slow or have a dead spot? I mean, at those temps you are not getting out of open loop.


Not sure where you came up with that theory, put a scan tool on your car then start it up cold and give it enough throttle to simulate normal driving say 1500 RPM (not idling) while you monitor loop status. If your O2 sensor is working you should be in closed loop before the coolant temp reaches 120, less than 2 minutes run time.

Posted on: 2008/6/25 20:18
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Re: Replacing valve stem seals
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Sounds like you have a good concept of the process already and depending on the type of compression tester you were using, you may already have the tool for holding the valves up.
The compression gauge adapter hose that screws into the spark plug hole is commonly used to put air in each cylinder. Remove the spark plug and rocker arms from the first cylinder to be repaired, next remove the schrader valve from the end of the adapter hose and screw it into the cylinder to be worked on. Before the next step be certain there is nothing near the pulleys and belts on the front of the engine because the engine may rotate a partial revolution once air is applied. Finally attach your shop air hose quick disconnect to the test adapter hose instead of the compression gauge. You will hear some minor leakage past he rings but should not hear air rushing out of the cylinder, STOP if you do until you figure out why, the valves will NOT stay up if there is severe leakage!
The valves should now be held closed so you can use a spring compressor to remove the keepers and retainers. See the link for different types of compressors that work without removing the head.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdengi1 ... KGZuKSVj5QCFQyenAodGVjphQ

Either the lever type (912)or screw type (2078) should work, sometimes handle clearance can be a problem using the lever types however.
When you finish replacing the seals on the first cylinder's valves reinstall the springs retainers and keepers, disconnect the air hose and move on the the next. Feel free to ask if that isn't clear, good luck.

Posted on: 2008/6/25 8:59
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Re: Can I beat this dead horse one more time?
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A less expensive shorty alternative, just giving you an option.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/det ... 19921996QQP4072C1340.html

Posted on: 2008/6/20 12:55
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Re: Hydrogen fueled C4
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Since natural is so plentiful why not just run on that rather than extracting hydrogen? Natural burns cleaner than gasoline and the technology is already developed. Extracting hydrogen sounds like it is getting back to the water burner idea, any efficiency gained by use of the fuel has to be exceeded by the energy required to extract it.

Posted on: 2008/6/17 22:27
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Re: Hydrogen fueled C4
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I'd love to know what the cost factor is for the conversion and hydrogen generator.

Posted on: 2008/6/17 21:58
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Casey just keeps getting more famous
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Posted on: 2008/6/17 8:00
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Re: Hydrogen fueled C4
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No doubt it is possible, I see Honda just announced they are building one for the US market. If I was going to pick a car to convert it wouldn't be a C4, tough to hide a nitrous bottle or even an MSD ignition box!

Posted on: 2008/6/17 7:43
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