All Posts (PeteK)
Re: Replace Rear Axle Seal |
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If you have not yet done the repair, make sure you have a stout set of lock ring pliers on hand. The clips that hold the axles in are a BEAR to pop loose.
Posted on: 2017/1/22 14:08
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Re: RIP Mike V/nutz4c4 |
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I think he was 62 or 63. Just recently retired.
He is survived by his 95 year old mom, and his wife Becky. When I spoke with him last Thursday, he was explaining that mom was in rehab from a broken hip, and he was trying to sway her into considering a nursing home.
Posted on: 2015/2/17 20:59
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RIP Mike V/nutz4c4 |
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It is with great sorrow I pass this information along.
Mike V passed away suddenly this past Sunday. He was a great guy, and the world is a worse place without him.
Posted on: 2015/2/17 18:31
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Re: Runs but not very well |
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Check #5 and #7 plug wires first.
Real easy to have those 2 backwards.
Posted on: 2014/11/21 12:29
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Re: 90 C4 Reasons for not getting a mph reading |
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Pluck the speedo sensor out, and shine a light into the speedo gears. I see more gear failures than sensor failures.
Posted on: 2014/11/10 12:50
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 6 |
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The butt dyno does not notice much of a difference.
I have quite a few datalogs from the last trans, so not only will I be able to compare ET differences, but I "should" be able to quantify the shift point increases (or decreases).
Posted on: 2014/10/18 16:54
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 6 |
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Ran out of summer, so no track times yet.
Street driving only.
Posted on: 2014/10/18 11:48
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Re: Bad things are happening... |
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Good news Andy.
Wishing her the best.
Posted on: 2014/10/18 11:41
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 6 |
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It took much longer than I thought, but a quality aftermarket company has knocked off the original gearset.
Less than 1/2 the price I paid, and in line with the price of other transmission types (Turbo 350, powerglide, Turbo 400 etc). http://www.sonnax.com/parts/3734
Posted on: 2014/10/18 11:39
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Re: 67 Color -- done--sorta. |
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Looks Great!!!!
Posted on: 2014/8/29 18:13
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Re: Self-tuning for C4's? |
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Have a look at the Dynamic ELB.
Not exactly what you are looking for, but it may suit your needs.
Posted on: 2014/8/13 1:08
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 6 |
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They market and distribute it, but Chris at CK Transmissions was the brains behind it, and is responsible for the manufacturing.
Posted on: 2014/8/10 15:44
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 6 |
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Quote:
Now it is 2.84 for first, and 1.56 for second. On paper, pretty nice.
Posted on: 2014/8/10 15:09
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Re: Self-tuning for C4's? |
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I could not find anything.
There are so many options if retrofitting an efi system to an old (pre-computer) car, but not much that interfaces with a semi modern/semi antique car like ours. I did convert my car to the EBL system because of it's ability to "self learn" some parameters, but the dyno shop screwed the car up, and I ripped it out immediately. I plan to re-install it at a later date.
Posted on: 2014/8/10 13:52
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 6 |
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Quote:
3rd gear remains 1:1 and 4th gear remains .70 so cruising is unchanged.
Posted on: 2014/8/10 13:41
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Re: 434 dyno results |
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Vicious!
Posted on: 2014/8/10 13:16
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Re: Sunday Chat 08.10.14 |
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What a waste. I am a grown up with skills. She might appreciate me more.
Posted on: 2014/8/10 12:56
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700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 6 |
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It has been years, but I finally installed this transmission on Friday.
Initial driving impressions are good. No gear whine, leaks or other oddities. Although I noticed the closer ratios at part throttle, most would not. Time to inspect my antique drag radials, and see if they will be soft enough for 1 more weekend. Track results and WOT impressions pending.
Posted on: 2014/8/10 12:52
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Re: Pete's Transmission Threads |
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Not sure why, but I cannot open my trans build links.
Just to update, finally, after 4 years, the custom ratio trans will be installed. Waiting on the converter refresh, and if all goes well it will install this Saturday. Shortly after that I will tweak the tune, and run it at the track to document the gain or loss.
Posted on: 2014/8/4 20:24
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Re: opinion on scat 383 forged rotating assembly |
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No.
Choice is yours.
Posted on: 2013/11/23 4:13
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Re: opinion on scat 383 forged rotating assembly |
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Crank and rods are decent.
Closely inspect the thrust surface of the crank. Every now ant then Scat leaves them rough, and they chew up the thrust bearing. It's been years since I ran across it, but it costs nothing to check it. Rods are decent, but will likely be 2-5 tenths tight. Have the big and small ends checked. As Matt said, don't trust the balance. Have it spun locally to verify.
Posted on: 2013/11/22 23:53
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Re: Building a boost friendly 400 |
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Maybe weight.
Bigger piston and smaller rod still did become light enough. There wasn't enough space in the crank case for the counterweights to be increased (to allow it to remain internally balanced). GM hung the extra balancing weight on the flywheel/flexplate to achieve the goal.
Posted on: 2013/11/15 22:00
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Re: Building a boost friendly 400 |
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There are 3 issues on a stock 400 block that contribute to the heat issue, in my opinion.
The cylinder walls are siamesed, so coolant flow is slightly restricted (restricted may be the wrong word, but close enough). Connecting rods are approx. 1/4 inch shorter than other small blocks, so the side loading on the cylinder wall was greater. All production 400's had crappy iron heads. In a performance build, the rod used is normally 6 inch, so that brings the side loading in line with a stock 350. One thing is certain. If building a 400 or so cube small block and boosting it to the 700 hp level, heat will be an issue that will need mitigation. The siamesed cylinders (in my opinion) are such a tiny portion of the equation, that is not worth thinking about.
Posted on: 2013/11/14 23:07
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Re: Building a boost friendly 400 |
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I just noticed the pistons you listed are 4032 alloy.
For the power you intend to make, and considering the boost, you may want to consider a piston with 2618 alloy. Food for thought.
Posted on: 2013/11/10 14:51
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Re: Building a boost friendly 400 |
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Quote:
Great parts choices in my opinion. Not only are the crank and rods great quality, but they tend to hold their dimensions years later. My piston of choice is the SRP. But the best balances you can afford on it, and best flexplte as well.
Posted on: 2013/11/10 14:33
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Re: Building a boost friendly 400 |
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Quote:
All external dimensions are the same for a 400 block. Any "traditional" small block head or intake, and headers will fit. Ford guys have fits when the jump from the 302 block platform to the 351 block platform. In regards to cylinder wall thickness, my experiences are opposite. Post 1977 small blocks (regardless of size) have thin cylinder walls. The 400's that I have been involved with have sonic checked thicker than the typical 1 pc rear main seal block that is the norm in todays builds. I never did understand the heat concern with a 400 block, and aluminum cylinder heads. Old wives tale that I have never seen happen.
Posted on: 2013/11/10 14:21
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Re: 88 vert auto (won't shift) |
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Happy to help John. Rebuilding a trans is not easy, or a job the average back yard mechanic can easily do. But, if I could do it, anyone can. Good luck with the inspection, repair, and (hopefully not needed) overhaul. Extensive travel keeps me off the forums, but vrodpete@msn.com is my email. Sometimes, that is the quicker way to get me.
Posted on: 2013/9/29 12:09
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Re: 88 vert auto (won't shift) |
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Governor is likely your problen.
Either an apple cored gear, or a stuck valve. Do not replace it with an aftermarket. Disassemble, inspect, clean with carb cleaner, and put a new gear on it. See this thread: http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... php?topic_id=9464&forum=1 PK
Posted on: 2013/9/29 11:56
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Re: Tuning Question |
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Quote:
Thanks Andy!
Posted on: 2013/8/2 23:11
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Re: Tuning Question |
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No good excuse. I sold my soul to the devil for my job. Constant travel and huge workload occupy most of my time. Company computer won't let me access websites.
Posted on: 2013/8/2 23:09
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Tuning Question |
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Hey guys. It's been a while.
I am currently cutting me teeth trying to modify my tune to keep the 406 alive. I am having a heck of a time eliminating a tip in knock. Although I have made a ton of AE changes, nothing seems to help. Anyone willing to view a datamaster file, and give me an opinion? TIA PK
Posted on: 2013/8/2 20:40
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PK-TG Bin 15 Log 8-2-13.zipRe: Gun thread |
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My apologies Beppe. I missed this. Replied to your PM. With ammo prices through the roof (and nearly impossible to find), I picked up a new plinker. Smith & Wesson MP-22 Pistol. I will snap a few pics later. Price was right, and it fits my hand like a glove.
Posted on: 2013/1/9 21:33
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Re: Gun thread |
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Picked this up for my daughter. Nice plinker.
I need to snap a newer pic that shows all of the do dads I installed. 
Posted on: 2012/11/22 15:16
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Re: What performance torque converter? |
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Sent you a PM.
Dana knows his shit, and assembles some pretty good, high quality kits. Be sure to involve your trans builder to be sure he is on the same page as Dana regarding the parts. Builder deserves final say.
Posted on: 2012/11/10 19:47
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Re: What performance torque converter? |
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Hey Matt. Been on the road for a while, and was wondering how you made out?
Edge makes a good unit. Andre makes a decent piece, and is a good guy. Mine are very, very similar to his in parts and quality, and a few bucks cheaper. Vigilane makes a fine piece, and they charge a PREMIUM price. Alot of it is for the billet rear cover that is way overkill for most of us.
Posted on: 2012/11/10 19:21
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Re: 700R4 trans slipping...ideas? |
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If properly set, the band (active for 2nd and 4th gear), is damn near bulletproof. I have a couple of friends making in excess of 600 hp and 500 ft lbs through a stock servo/band set up.
3-4 pack has always been as weak link, but having both fail together is rare. I would lean towards a line pressure problem, or a broken sprag in the converter. Either way. Stop driving it. every time you whack the throttle, you may be tearing up a part of an otherwise decent core.
Posted on: 2012/10/17 11:51
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Re: 700R4-4L60 Build Up Part 5 |
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Where does the time go?
I can't believe that this transmission has been sitting on the shelf for 3 years! Life has gotten in the way of my hobby, thats for sure. If all goes well, I plan on pulling it down quickly for a fast inspection, and install this winter. I am hoping to do a full rear suspension rebuild, so the trans will only be a few more bolts. Updates to follow, eventually......
Posted on: 2012/9/30 17:13
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Re: Trans shifting problems revisited |
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The 1-2 accumulator is the cushion (or shock absorber) for the 1-2 shift.
The aux valve body's job it to provide shock absorption of the park to drive shift, park to reverse shift, or drive to reverse shift. Although I have never seen an aux valve body bore worn, it is worth inspecting. It is more common for trans builders to reuse a worn accumulator piston. This is a bad idea, as the center hole that rides up and down the hardened steel guide rod wears out the pistons.If the pistons are dated, replace them. Replacements are not date stamped. I still think your problem is in the main valve body. If none of the above solves it, I would gravitate towards the input shaft teflon seals as being a strong possibility. Especially if the builder used the scarf cut type seals.
Posted on: 2012/5/20 19:41
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Re: Beginning of a new New Project |
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Quote:
The photos above show a 2 pc rear main seal block.
Posted on: 2012/3/31 12:44
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Re: Trans problems.....signs of a bad torque converter? |
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Quote:
Print the instructions, and use them to confirm that the components installed in the trans are correct, and nothing is missing. Transgo kits are very complicated, and it is super easy (even for a pro) to make a mistake. Your problem may or may not be dirt, or a burr in the valve body. It could also be: Incorrect check ball placement Incorrect seperator plate, mods to that plate, or incorrect vb gaskets. Holes in valve body drilled in wrong location. Plugs in trans case incorrect, damaged, or loose. If you drop the pan and see alot of "molasses" in the bottom, you have a roached clutch pack, or band. If this happens, you will need to make a decision as to whether you want to attempt repair, or tear the box down for inspection.
Posted on: 2012/3/11 16:25
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so I'll have to look on transgo's website. Re: Trans problems.....signs of a bad torque converter? |
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When a shift kit is installed, it changes the amount of checkballs used. You will need to reference the instructions for the specific shift kit (and settings) and your transmissions model year. The manual wont be much help regarding the checkballs.
Posted on: 2012/3/11 13:57
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Re: Trans problems.....signs of a bad torque converter? |
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If you lower the valve body and seperator plate down together, and perfecly level, the checkballs will stay on the top of the plate. The slightest twist while you are lowering it will result in the case checkballs dropping and rolling into never nerverland. Expect to chase them and have someone close by with a long magnet. This way, they can chase them while you get the atf imbedded in the eyeball.
Posted on: 2012/3/11 13:02
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Re: Trans problems.....signs of a bad torque converter? |
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Yes. 2 large springs, and a half dozen or more check balls to deal with. When you remove the valve body, they will have some up in the worm track, above the seperator plate, and 2 in the valve body (below the seperator plate. Aux valve body will have 1 also.
Posted on: 2012/3/10 23:58
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Re: Signs of a bad torque converter? |
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I didn't hear slippage in the video. Slippage would be bad news. All it takes is a speck of dirt, half the size of a piece of pepper to bind a valve. To clean the valve body, you will need: 2 new VB gaskets. Filter Fluid 2 cans carb cleaner 1 can brake cleaner Completely dissassemble, and lightly block the machined surface with 400 grit paper to deburr it. Spitshine every knook and cranny with carb cleaner, including every piece of the valvetrain. Once you are sure it is clean, clean it again, then wash out with brakeclean, and dry with compressed air. Mock up every valve, in every bore, without their springs, caps, oins, or oil. They should slide back and forth as you tip the VB. Gravity should be sufficient to move each valve when done this way. Once satisfied a valve/bore is slick as snot, reassembly correctly with a light coat of ATF on all moving parts and bores. Make sure you do not install the VB gaskets incorrectly. The top one is different from the bottom. Torque the attaching bolts in sequence in 2 steps. 1st to a snug point, then final to 7 ft lbs (or about 86 inch pounds). *Be sure to leave the copper flashed (larger) checkball out, if the last guy did not. If the above does not fix it, my guess is that the last guy did not change the teflon sealing rings, or damaged the new one, or maybe even installed the incorrect scarf cut seals. Just a WAG though.
Posted on: 2012/3/10 19:55
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Re: Trans problems.....signs of a bad torque converter? |
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Governor or Valve body is my first guess.
I would start with the governor, especially if you lightened the weights to make it shift higher.
Posted on: 2012/3/10 18:43
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Re: So how come? |
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Because a 58cc head, on a 4 inch bore is counterproductive for making power.
The smaller the chamber, the more you shroud the valves. The only reason GM did it was because it was a cheap fix. Typically, bigger chamber = more power potential. Sometimes, compression is less important than you may think.
Posted on: 2012/2/18 12:44
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Re: Pete's Transmission Threads |
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Not sure Steve, but I did not delete them from my photobucket account. I am hoping it is a website glitch.
Posted on: 2012/2/12 21:58
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Re: head gasket suggestions? |
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If it is not an LT1, I normally use the Fel-Pro 7733PT-2
L-98's had a .051 compressed thickness factory gasket, and the Fel-Pro comes in at .039 Inexpensive, and I have never (yet) had a problem with them. If you want thin, Victor makes an .026, but be sure to see how far down the hole your pistons are. If zero deck, you cant use them. ..040 total quench is what I usually target with steel rods. I have run as tight as .034 without issues, but hate to go that tight. The above assumes you are not boosting, or spraying the balls off it.
Posted on: 2012/2/8 15:50
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Re: Shame on them |
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I feel the same way. I would never infringe on their rights to do what I think is foolish. They are entitled. I just hate to see it affect someones paycheck.
Posted on: 2012/1/26 18:21
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Re: Update on setup |
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Matt,
Your not at all wrong. Some do choose to replace bearings every time the oil pan comes off, or valvesprings every time the valve covers come off etc. If it is in the budget, and the owner is comfortable doing it, it is A1 ok. You can go broke though, if not prepared for it. As I mentioned, it becomes a different mindset when you are killing parts on a predictible basis.
Posted on: 2012/1/26 18:19
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