Matatk wrote:
You might consider how will using a 95 ecm affect your aldl port, as well.

bogus wrote:
I would get a Canton pan. It has to be installed once the engine is in the car, but it is more than high enough to be safe from road damage.

It also has trap doors to help cut down on oil slosh.

Matatk wrote:
The brakes on the X developed a shake in the front recently while braking. I did a full brake job on the truck maybe 5000 miles ago. Cut the rotors front and rear and new pads. Guess the front rotors didn't like it. Visually with a straight edge no warpage, but I didn't check the runout. I did see a lot of rust on the inside vanes so I think they are out of balance. What's weird is sometimes the shake is not there, sometimes it is. Never experienced that before. Found a vendor on ebay with raybestos pro grade rotors shipped for $45 each. Cheapest price anywhere so I just bought them. I have a road trip in two weeks so I'd like to get the brakes fixed up before that.

Matatk wrote:
TB - I'm the same way with tools. I hate to buy it again when I already have it, but I won't use it and return it...unless it breaks like that. I do have several tools in the past that I've had to buy duplicates of because I was doing a job elsewhere than in my garage. When I was at my dad's a few weeks ago we had to buy some sockets to tinker with the Vette. NBD, Harbor Freight had them cheap, but still. I can't pack everything in the truck to travel with that I might need, not enough room.

Matatk wrote:
Some movie about dude strippers. Regardless of boobage, I won't be seeing it.

Matatk wrote:
Good advice and thanks for pointing out the PCM flash issue, Rick, I forgot about that

mfi wrote:
I've done a ton of research about this, just got a 3.07 rear to replace my 2.59..my motor is stock so I'm not worried about it. If you go with anything higher than 3.07 you will have to replace the speedometer gear at the tail end of the tranny and the one in the VSS.no big deal but its harder to get the speedometer right. You will also be buzzing pretty high at highway speeds, I've read 3.73 is pretty much the limit with these autos...changing to a Dana 44 is a big job, way more involved but will handle anything..all depends on what kind of driving you do..for stoplight wars the 3.73 will be great but will not last too long..

Matatk wrote:
If you need impacts, the HF ones are ok for really light work, but I've broken 3 of them recently on nuts that were really torqued down tight. That's why I bought the better set.

PS - we won't hold it against you if you give in to temptation.

Matatk wrote:
Today was too hot and too long. Sitting on the couch eating junk and sipping a beer. Scored my super ram today, though, so I'm stoked.

Matthew

Ps - hope you feel better, TB

BillH wrote:
Always Remember: Put the tiedown straps on the car BEFORE you move the trailer.

bogus wrote:
Looks great!

I agree with Matthew! VERY FAST! But, I think removing the seat saved you time. I have come to the conclusion that it is faster to peal back the layers on these cars than try to work through them.

Excellent job!!!

Matatk wrote:
Rick - thanks a lot! I got the diagrams, I'll post them up later. I'm gonna try to find a terminal adapter for the f-body switch then I'll play with the wiring.

Matthew

Matatk wrote:
Sure...rub it in! I usually drive with the top off if I can. The acrylic one sure does get hot in the summer.

Matatk wrote:
I'd probably be happier with a 2200 stall or even 2000, but what is done is done. I'm not spending more money if not necessary.

Matatk wrote:
Good Morning CGs!

Well if you saw last night's late post, baby is still sick. His fever was 105.3 at the doctor's office around 5 pm. I was at gymnastics with #1 when my wife got home with him. She says she gave him some medicine and put him to bed. Seemed like he was doing better. That was until 2:30 am when his fever spiked again and he barfed. We just feel horrible for him because there is nothing we can do. Makes you sad.

Marcus - I used to get tickets as a teenager, but not lately. Although I do have a bit of a lead foot, not uncommon in Chicago. Move over or get run over is the motto here.

Hope everyone has a great day!

Matthew

istter1 wrote:
I had heard that some people had problems with that tool box. I had problems with my snap on.

Was it because of the weight capicity of the drawers?

istter1 wrote:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_112374-55738- ... les_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

istter1 wrote:
Just gave away my 35 year old Snap on Rollaway to my kid. Have tons of tools all over the floor. Like the pretty one at Lowel's but don't really need the frig.

Any opiion's

bogus wrote:
What they said. It's on my list after the rear end is done.

Also, the fat tires up front on these things do sap some of the delicate nature of the steering...

biggrizzly wrote:
Z51 Steering Rack

Matatk wrote:
Looks like Alemite might be made in China now.

Here's a Lincoln:

http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrica ... TF8&qid=1330215760&sr=8-5

BillH wrote:
Quote:

RickAnthony wrote:
Most of the dirty stuff I'm dealing with is fabricating custom brackets, pipes, ect. Which I am doing all by hand with a die grinder and bench grinder. Without a metal break of course which would really make bending 14 gauge steel nice vs using a vise.

I picked up a 24 in break at HF on sale for $64.
It's not a box break but does an adequate job.

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

RickAnthony wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
This is a very cool car that Rick has put a ton of work in to!

Thanks, so when are you going to stop by and check out my new location and see the project??

Maybe sooner than later. I think my BIL wants to do ball joints and I need to borrow your c-clamp press I'm gonna call you.

Matatk wrote:
This is a very cool car that Rick has put a ton of work in to!

BillH wrote:
Lokks great, Rick.

Thank you for not showing the dirty work.

The fun always starts when you're putting clean chit together.

me, I just finished playing with sticky fiberglass, grind, sand, more sitcky fiberglass.