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Re: DTC question
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bam wrote:
Any thoughts about the 74 from module #1,
why then would I get this error code? How is that possible?

Mod 1 (CCM ) DTC 74 :LED display dimming output circuit open or shorted to ground

http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/dave8476/index4.shtml

Posted on: 2014/4/25 2:54
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Re: Fron spring question
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CorvetteBob wrote: the front spring has had the rubber piece on the top cut,
how much does this effect he ride height?


For future reference


http://webpages.charter.net/khasting/ ... ng/techinfo/lowering.html

Posted on: 2014/3/17 21:53
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Re: No Start
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bogus wrote:
AFAIK, you can't program it out... there has been past discussions on it.

The CCM is sending a handshake and it's weird... Perhaps the tuners have figured it out.

If VATS is programmed out in the tune on a SD car, the ECM will not look for the required fuel enable signal from the CCM ;
exactly the same as happens with the VATS delete on earlier MAF cars with the standalone VATS module

In any case ,you have to manually bypass the VATS operated starter enable relay to fully remove VATS from the car

Resistors only work to "fool" VATS into thinking the correct key is being used.If there is a fault with the VATS system itself , the resistors will do zilch

Posted on: 2013/12/30 0:27
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Re: C4 Half Shafts - Questions
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rklessdriver wrote:I crush the needles out of the U-Joints before anything.

I agree.
My lowly 12 sec auto on DR's took out the needles but some had had HS failures


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Posted on: 2013/12/16 10:53
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Re: unknown wire - C4 '91 RH
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josephf31 wrote:
it doesn't look factory to me,

The heat proof shield it is run in, is not stock anyway

what is the color of the other wire out of the harness that runs with it ?

Posted on: 2013/12/7 23:43
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Re: Backfire from throttle body...
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Posted on: 2013/11/5 6:38
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Re: Bob's Tuned Port Single Plane Intake/// is this worth doing
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http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tpi ... bbk-tpi-intake-setup.html

Has had a long gestation period. Raised a lot of hopes when it was 1st announced.

Note the date of the original posting!

Posted on: 2013/10/22 11:57
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Re: Bob's Tuned Port Single Plane Intake/// is this worth doing
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istter1 wrote:
Holley Stealthram
any info on Ca emissions or price

Would require the same EGR solution as above

You only buy the HSR intake and fuel rails , reusing all your TPI stuff

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wnd-7540/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-534-186/


Quote:

istter1 wrote:
Holley Stealthram
I hear clearance problems

Excuse for that hood scoop you always wanted

Posted on: 2013/10/22 4:52
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Re: Bob's Tuned Port Single Plane Intake/// is this worth doing
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istter1 wrote:
I do have a roll of plumbers tape

Not sure of it's resistance to EGR gas temps ?

Posted on: 2013/10/22 1:54
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Re: Bob's Tuned Port Single Plane Intake/// is this worth doing
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bogus wrote:The EGR relo kit is designed to go with the TPiS intake.

Granted but plenty have used it for a retrofit on other than a MR.
All you need is a flat surface on the plenum somewhere large enough to mount the base

There are plenty of compact OEM valves that could be remote mounted so only a line to a port threaded into the plenum would be required.
The options are limitless

Posted on: 2013/10/21 12:21
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Re: Bob's Tuned Port Single Plane Intake/// is this worth doing
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Matatk wrote:
How is that CARB compliant?

Only way would be to add the EGR valve

http://www.tpis.com/pages/10_12_08

Posted on: 2013/10/20 11:57
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Re: Change 86-88 ecm to 89
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bogus wrote:
I think they are suggesting an upgrade, but at the same time, it sounds like they are saying "pretend the 1987 ECM is a 1989".
I'm confused.
All I did was just install the '89 tune into my '87 '165 ECM and it functioned /datalogged fine

Posted on: 2013/10/19 7:56
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Re: Two Newbie Questions About Coolant
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Matatk wrote:
It's easy to use the petcock drain You don't have to drain a lot, .

And if you never want to have to drain the block again when working on the TB ,you remove and join the the 2 heater hoses going the TB together ;
the "TB" bypass
You can even tidy up the IAC housing they went to


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Posted on: 2013/9/27 1:03
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Re: HSR fuel rail limit
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383tpimachine wrote: Will be running 10AN line throughout with a 6AN return. Guess I will try them out and get bigger if they are a restriction.

Alternative is to do like the big Hp EFI guys do and loose the crossover.
Supply line split to each rail then T'ed back into the reg

Posted on: 2013/8/2 1:04
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Re: How do they do it?
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CorvetteBob wrote:
How do you interface all the GM stuff and the new engine controller?
What do you guys know about this stuff?

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... hp?topic_id=18971&forum=1

Dash works independent of the ECM ( except for speedo '90 + )

Is usual to install a new aftermarket system as standalone engine management and retain whatever stock wiring required for chassis / dash functions

Posted on: 2013/7/17 0:45
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Re: Correct rpm's
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Frank wrote:
The car seems to bog down if I put it into overdrive when driving in the city.

You are also dealing with the common complaint of the convertor locking up at part throttle, lower road speeds pulling the revs down by 2-300 rpm.

Posted on: 2013/7/6 23:50
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Re: Alternator question
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Matatk wrote:
As far as replacing it, the job really shouldn't be too tough.

A breaker bar to take the tension off the serp belt and 2 bolts to undo, one of the easiest jobs on a C4

Posted on: 2013/7/1 9:26
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Re: 1984 Serpentine Belt Reroute Questions
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Matatk wrote:
This might give you some ideas:

http://m.corvetteforum.com/c4-tech-pe ... hout-a-delete-pulley.html

That is for a L98 but my preferred method as it does away with the idler completely

This one is for a CFI retaining the idler as the OP suggests

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-ge ... lete-ford-tempo-belt.html

FWIW
the idler pulley doesn't need to be grooved as it is only tensioning the belt ; not driving anything with a load on it.

Posted on: 2013/6/18 1:18
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Re: A picture is worth 1000 words A.K.A. Vacuum problems
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84Xfire wrote:
The accumulator(ball) is connected to the cruise servo; that's all

If the CFI is setup the same as the later cars then a T at the CC should go to a one way valve then to intake vac source
That same valve serves to split the vac to the HVAC inside and the CC / vac ball in the engine bay

Unfortunately that system is not shown in this CFI vac diagram



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Posted on: 2013/5/24 6:41
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Re: will the digital dash cluster work with out the computer
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bogus wrote: even if his toilets flush backwards.


Still ends up in the same place though

Posted on: 2013/5/24 4:46
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Re: will the digital dash cluster work with out the computer
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Only thing on the dash in your car related to the ECM is the fuel mileage and range readout.
Everything else comes from independent sources ,tacho from the coil, gauges from their sender units ,
speedo from the VSS in the trans ,etc

Posted on: 2013/5/23 2:44
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Re: Throttle Body Connections
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CorvetteBob wrote:was this the type of piece your talking about for a diagnostic tool?
Does it look to be as complete as I would need it?
If all a hand held scanner is going to do for you is show what the engine is doing , then better to spend $60 on a ALDL -USB cable
http://www.aldlcable.com/

and use some free software on your laptop or netbook.

Quote:

CorvetteBob wrote:I'm hoping to find an inductive, handheld tach
I would have double checked the TPS voltage, but my meter's batteries were dead.

By running the datalogging program you can observe and adjust the TPS volts or RPM in real time ( no DVM or adapter for the TPS connection needed )

Posted on: 2013/5/12 8:20
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Re: Throttle Body Connections
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CorvetteBob wrote:
The difficulty I see here, is that with the valve I have, and the the current routing of hoses, the PCV will constantly be pulled open. With the PCV open at high vacuum, such as when idling or other periods when throttle blades are suddenly closed, the open valve allows air to enter the intake causing a lean condition causing stumble or stalling. ?

How so?
As you correctly explained above , the valve has restricted flow at high vac (idle )

"The valve is simple, but actually performs a complicated control function.
With the engine running, the tapered end of the internal restrictor is drawn towards the opening in the PCV valve by manifold vacuum, restricting the opening proportionate to the level of engine vacuum vs. spring tension.
At idle, the intake manifold vacuum is near maximum. It is at this time the least amount of blow by is actually occurring, so the PCV valve provides the largest amount of (but not complete) restriction.
As engine load increases, vacuum on the valve decreases proportionally and blow by increases proportionally.
With a lower level of vacuum, the spring returns the cone to the "open" position to allow more air flow.
At full throttle, vacuum is much reduced, down to between 1.5 and 3" Hg. At this point the PCV valve is nearly useless, and most combustion gases escape via the "breather tube" where they are then drawn in to the engine's intake manifold anyway"

Does the PCV valve operate if you put your finger over it's open end when it is removed from the rocker cover?

Posted on: 2013/5/10 5:02
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Re: Throttle Body Connections
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CorvetteBob wrote:
This is regarding EARLY C4 vacuum/PCV and EVAP connections.
Currently, my PCV line to the right valve cover is connected to the top vacuum connection on the right side of the T-body.
My EVAP system vacuum line is currently connected to the lower, connection and draws vacuum from behind the throttle blades.
Is this the correct configuration, or did I at some point get them switched w/ each other?

You are correct,

Quote:

CorvetteBob wrote:
BUT, and this is where it caught me, the vacuum should be pulling more toward the throttle body from the right side v-c fitting!
with the engine idling, it seems to have almost NO vacuum draw from that port.

There is no vac on the line to the pass side rocker cover, it is supply air at atmosphere pressure only.
At best you may get some passing suction when the engine is at WOT
When you go WOT and there is little vac to pull the fumes through the PCV valve,
the fumes go back UP the supply line to the TB ; hence the complaints about oil contamination in the TB / plenum ; ie where does the oil come from?

If as you surmise you were to have vac on both rocker covers there would be no flow for the fumes to be sucked out of the engine as both vac source would be at the same potential

Posted on: 2013/5/9 7:58
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Re: I can't be the only one
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corvetteronw wrote:
I went to the TunerCat website.
Can you even do this on a pre-1992 Corvette? It did not look like they had an option for the older C4s.

TunerPro RT is the program of choice for tuning ( and datalogging ) 85 - 91 L98 cars
but as mentioned by aboatguy ,Datamaster is popular for data logging as it has a much better GUI for play back of recorded logs as
opposed to looking at a spreadsheet full of numbers
See
http://powertuneplus.com/syclone/tunersguide_dm.shtm

This is prob cheapest ALDL cable
http://www.aldlcable.com/

Posted on: 2013/4/9 3:14
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Re: Small cap distributor
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LD85 wrote:
Its the same years as the MSD-8366, 87-95 Chevy small block Gen I

Commonly used on TBI trucks 87 -95

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Posted on: 2013/4/9 0:50
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Re: Head numbers?
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. it might be there, or on a pad near the oil filter...

Only ever seen the rear location used on late LT1 blocks


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Posted on: 2013/3/21 13:14
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Re: Head numbers?
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Not sure about any " stamped" numbers on the heads but the block pad above the water pump usually has a partial VIN stamped which identifies the original vehicle the engine was fitted to



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Posted on: 2013/3/18 22:20
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Re: Transmission temperature gauge sensor mounting location
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Matatk wrote:
Some prefer to mount in in the trans pan / exit line to monitor actual (?) trans temps.

I have mine at the rear of the pan for that reason
I know the cooler is working because when the trans cooler fan kicks in I can see the temp drop almost straight away

Posted on: 2013/2/22 12:24
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Re: 1985 vette--Wanting to turn it into a 383stroker
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Matatk wrote:Guys promote the 383 as the Holy Grail of all motors. It's not. It's a 350 with a couple more cubes.

The reason for the popularity of a 383 is that IF you have to do FULL rebuild on a 350 you are only looking at the extra cost of the stroker crank
(offset by what it will cost to clean the used 350 crank up )

Posted on: 2013/2/12 11:33
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Re: Interior light delay timer
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Frank wrote:
where is it located?


taped to the harness behind the DIC

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For location reference



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Posted on: 2013/2/11 11:24
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Re: Interior light delay timer
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Frank wrote: Do I just replace the circuit board or the whole assembly.

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_in ... th=1940&products_id=26953

or a unit to bypass the timer

http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_in ... th=1940&products_id=26954

or you can save $$$ and do the backyard fix

"If the Courtesy Lamp Delay timer is bad, you can buy a replacement or bypass it.
To bypass it at the Courtesy Lamp Delay timer connector, you cut the white wire at Pin A and cut the two white wires at Pin D.
Solder the three white wires together.
This will cause the courtesy lights to come on when the doors are opened and go out when the doors are closed.
There will be no delay time out for the courtesy lights."

Posted on: 2013/2/11 11:21
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Re: 1992 headlight motor rebuild & gear replacement.
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Posted on: 2013/2/10 4:25
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Re: B & M ratchet shifter 86 auto
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Easy enough to check , just jumper the terminals in the plug and see whch wires makes the starter and backup lights work

generally on the shifter switch
Dk blue / Lt green; backup lights
Purple /Yellow; starter (thicker wires )

Org and corresponding black wire you have no switch for (are computer inputs for P/N indication)


Just cut the plug off and install spade terminals to connect to the two micro switches

Posted on: 2013/2/8 7:46
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Re: TELL ME, OH WISE ONES---
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GRIS wrote: I'VE READ THAT THEY SOFTENED THE SUSPENSION IN 96, SO MAYBE THAT'S IT.

You can see how soft your suspension is here.
http://www.vettenet.org/susp_chart.html

Can retro fit any heavier springs and sway bars from '88+

Posted on: 2013/1/28 3:58
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Re: Newbie Questions..
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Found it
WHF ;
'94 Impala .275Hp .Auto .Ca emissions

Your engine doesn't have cast iron heads does it?

Posted on: 2013/1/19 4:38
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Re: Newbie Questions..
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woody3882 wrote:
1, My engine block number is V0924WHF

I have worked on three (92/94/96 ) original Vette LT1 engines.
They have all had the traditional 3 digit SBC engine suffix stamped on the front block pad.
All Vette LT1's had a code beginning with Z ;for '94
ZWA; LT1 w/auto
ZWB: LT1 w/ man

so I suspect with WHF your Vette is not a virgin

V0924 is the production plant / date code

Quote:

woody3882 wrote:
I see no similarities in the numbers, is the engine number supposed to be patially included in the VIN or this motor a past donor.


This Caprice iron head LT1 doesn't appear to have the partial Vin stamped so maybe GM stopped doing that when they started stamping the rear of the block as shown above ?

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Posted on: 2013/1/19 4:31
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Re: Half Shaft U-Joint
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1Fast04Vert wrote:
Neapco has a very good reputation and I would have no problem using them.

I have run the Brute Force uni's without problems when I couldn't get Spicers

Posted on: 2013/1/15 22:52
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Re: Half Shaft U-Joint
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Should be able to pick them up for same or cheaper ( and save on shipping costs ) at your local truck or driveshaft shop.
1350 series is common driveshaft uni on most pickups
Spicer # 5-1350X or if old stock superseded part # 5-799X

Posted on: 2013/1/14 12:53
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Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
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Posted on: 2013/1/8 11:44
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Re: engine id number
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bogus wrote:
The number is on the block, and that is located on the right side of the engine, front, on the block deck surface.

If the engine is the original one , it will have a number stamped on the pad that matches the last digits of the car VIN
There will also be a 3 letter engine ID code starting with Z if it is a C4 engine of any year
(if someone swapped in a engine from another year instead of just the heads as suggested )


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Posted on: 2012/11/16 12:05
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Re: Must you pull the engine on a C4 to do a cam change?
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corvetteronw wrote:
he states it is almost impossible to properly seal the lower portion of the timing chain cover with the engine in place.

What year is your engine?
If it is a late (>'87+ ? ) 1 pce RMS engine using the 1 piece rubber pan gasket it is almost impossible to screw up the pan to timing cover seal
Have R/R the pan with the engine in the car several times ; all you have to do is rotate the crank so the throws on the crank are moved to clear the pan as it comes back over the X member

But as the others state I would pull the engine out to do a cam swap

Posted on: 2012/11/8 11:46
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Re: ebay red cap dist under $70
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istter1 wrote:For my new 383 stroker I would like one of these I haven't found one that is non vacum advance.
give me some advice on this .

If you have injection you are out of luck
EFI HEI dist is completely computer controlled ; not just non vac advance

Posted on: 2012/10/20 22:49
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Re: 700R4 trans slipping...ideas?
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bogus wrote:
torque converter???

Mine did similar when I blew the sprag out of the convertor

Posted on: 2012/10/17 5:03
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Re: Analog water temp gage- 1992
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Quote:

donhall wrote: the only coolant temp sensor identified is located below the water pump.

As noted digital gauge is fed from the ECM which gets it's temp indication from the coolant temp sensor on water pump

Quote:
donhall wrote: I'm familiar with the sensor you mention... between 6 & 8 cyl., but can't confirm what sensor it is.

sender for the analog gauge

Posted on: 2012/10/7 10:39
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Re: Changing my rear
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edelfyette wrote:I did find a 40-45 speedo gear housing, is that what I need?

That unit is for a cable speedo
You need one of these in 40-45 tooth , 2000 (85-89) pulse variant


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Posted on: 2012/10/5 0:11
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Re: Changing my rear
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edelfyette wrote:
Do i go with a new speedo drive gear

You need to change both the drive and driven speedo gears

Remove your 17/35 tooth (2.59 ) combo
and replace with 15/42 (3.45 )

Also need a VSS to suit 40-45 tooth driven gears;
your current VSS suits 35 - 39 tooth gears

Posted on: 2012/10/3 0:35
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Re: 87 Brakes
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Matatk wrote:So perhaps now that you've got the new m/c installed you have to jam on the brake pedal hard to reset the sensor.
A while now since I replaced the M/c
Plunger in differential switch has a groove visible by looking in the switch hole that needs to be in the center
Recall I unscrewed the switch to see which way the plunger was offset to ( front or rear system? )
Then I opened a bleeder on other side and pushed the pedal ( same as bleeding ) so as to move the plunger back to the central (off ) position



Posted on: 2012/9/3 0:09
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Re: 87 Brakes
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Did you bench bleed the new mc before you put it on? Could cause the light to come on.

The switch on the M/c needs resetting to the central position

Quote:

Matatk wrote:As far as the third brake light, the bulbs are pretty easy to replace, just get ready for sticker shock when you see the price for that stupid bulb.

12V JC halogen bulbs work great.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-Haloge ... Bulbs&hash=item4ab9ee2b4b

Just need to adjust the pin spacing slightly to fit in the 3rd light sockets

Posted on: 2012/9/1 13:30
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Re: Delayed starting
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finderhome wrote:
It will not crank over. It doesn't even click. Then in about three minutes it starts and runs perfectly.
Could it have something to do with the security system????

Sure can .
http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

If the resistor pellet on the key is not read correctly because it or the the contacts in Ign switch that read it are dirty or worn ;the VATS system shuts the starter ( and injectors ) down for 4 minutes
Got a spare key to try?

Posted on: 2012/9/1 5:54
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