Is it one part or is it two?? Their website shows only one related part.

OP, remember, after the paint, 98% of the cars need to be wet sanded and buffed to remove fibers and debris that landed on the paint.

My RX7 came out of the booth looking like hell......Mussers mobile auto detail made it look fantastic with 1000 grit wet sand and a proper buff....

NOTE: When replacing all four taillight with LED taillights both the turn flasher and warning flasher must be replaced.

what are they talking about?

I still like this thread

Doesn't a 1/2 breaker bar fit right in the hole?

So, this weird situation has existed throughout two separate transmissions....

I didn't see where you had put a Keisler in there.....Did you put that tranny in there or did the PO?

Would you want an GM replacement?

^^There is something really odd about your situation....

If you take a Master, Slave and hose and replace them all at the same time, there is NO WAY an issue from the old components could transfer to the new......I mean, if dirt an grime are to blame, if take all three components out...there is no way to cross contaminate

There are three Magnesium C5 wheels on Craigslist right now for $150.....two fronts and one rear.

Are you using original GM parts?? I know you mentioned NAPA, but they have had issues with the o-ring inserted backwards in the past......

There is a GM wholesale place on Gothard Street in Huntington Beach. I know you are in Bakersfield, but if you are a shop....or you can present yourself as a "jobber" they'll sell to you out the back door type thing and the parts are just as cheap as NAPA non-original parts.

I'd try these as the last time I did the NAPA route, the Slave they gave me wouldn't mate up with the GM hose without modification, the original GM Slave mounted right up....

So, I took the NAPA slave back and got my money back.....

Once I found this GM place, I've not had a hard time finding any parts.

And your 4x3?? Orange County Transmissions in Costa Mesa did mine....He didn't need to rebuild the DNE Overdrive, but he took it apart and replace the gaskets.....He did rebuild the 4spd portion, he had it done in "one" working day......

I dropped it off on Monday mid morning and Tuesday afternoon he was done......$750....

^^too late now....just push the tranny to the side and the thing slides down easily....then wriggle it off of the D36....

saved you a phone call.

Quote:
I'm no sure where you live, but, C5 wheels come up for sale on Craigslist every month for ~$300 a set...some even with descent rubber.

On an '84 you'll have to spacer the rears, but the fronts bolt right up.

^^Is that true?? I hadn't heard that at all.

So, I need to be sourcing me two more 18s for the front? and just run 18s squared?

Bump just for fun.....on a slow Tuesday.

Sorry for bumping an old thread but....

I think a good point may have been overlooked.

Every bearing will "break in" once you start using it. So, if you torque the nut run the bearing and do nothing else, the bearing may become loose.....

I mean, I am going off of bicycle and motorcycle experience, but it makes sense....

So, maybe, Torque the nut, run the bearing and allow the thing to "Break in", and then re-torque the nut a 1000 miles later or after a single run at the track...metal has a way of "moving" sometimes

This is a great reason to switch to 17s or 17 and 18 staggered....plenty of tires to choose from plus your car will look better and handle better

OK, so, mine would "at 75mph or better" have a sort of vibration that would oscillate....meaning....it would come and the stop...then start up, vibrate, then stop.....

I "KNOW" I have a front end issue that needs addressing, but the rears wore in a funny way was well.

The car no longer oscillates at 75+....it's nice.

The front left tire still has a bit of a vibration.....I'm looking into that, most likely a worn ball joint.

ok, tell me this, back in the 70s when we used to use "air shocks" (installed at Sears) to jack up the back of the car....

.....what would that do to the rake?

Ya know, there is more too it as well. I think the car sitting so low in the back affected the alignment via stance.....I'm not so sure but it sure rides much better and looks much better with the bigger rubber in there.

Here is the earlier thread.

http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... id=132309#forumpost132309

well, today I finally got around to changing the rears.

255 45 18 is what I put on just now....now, that tire size calculator was way off from what it stated.....

The old tires were more like 23" tall.....

Stock 1984 16" tires are 26.4" if you measure the overall height of the tire.....So, yeah, there was a huge difference....and not a good one either.

I was really put out by the drive and the acceleration of the smaller tire. Unless I romped on it, Cavaliers where beating me from stop light to stop light and I DID NOT LIKE that.

This tire I just put on is 26.2 overall height......man!! Huge huge difference in highway ride and acceleration out of the hole.

Highway speeds, if felt like....well it was like I was going slow and I look down at the speedo and it was 75ish....

Then off the line....just let the clutch out and the car is gone.....everyone, including Cavaliers, are in the rear view.....and I mean, I am not hammering it off the line...just letting the clutch go and this car just naturally (with the right size tires) takes off.

That's the update. Rear tire size can change the gearing....

I can lift the lever and while holding the button, let the parking brake off slowly...but .....

lemme ask, on my '84.....when the lever is all the way down...I merely push the button and it releases the parking brakes with a crack.....do the later years "not" release this way???

Pappy, that green Printed circuit board is the culprit if the motor is not bad.

Think about it, when it gets damp (like on a rainy day) it fails......dry day and the wipers work fine.....

Only one thing....PCB is failing or getting wet due to bad housing seal.

My wipers only work on dry days......

Quote:
Myth,

If your compressor cycles on and off......what makes it cycle??

If it is temperature driven (which it is) then the thermistor would just have the compressor run a little longer to achieve the set temps......

To test what I say, jump the relay and have your compressor run constantly, soon frost will blow out of your vents...

So, pound for pound even if the 134a was had less cooling capacity, the thermistor would make up the difference and you inside the car wouldn't notice that the compressor ran for 134 seconds before kicking off versus 142 seconds

Someone on this forum showed how they used Vice Grips on the outside of the hose wrench to in essence squeeze the hose wrench "claw foot" a little tighter. You are past all that now...

But the heat is the answer at this point. And since you've cut the hoses, You can use the vice grips to grasp the nuts at this point....there is nothing to lose

hrmmm...looking at the box, Mine was "Made in Italy" but original AC Delco or GM.

I priced the A/C compressor for $200....only new, no rebuild for compressors at this place...nice place and good prices.

The NAPA SC was ~$90 as well....My Friend John, the GM Master tech at SW Gears told me about the "Dealer Services" place.

The dreaded Slave Cylinder thread.....

I've seen so many threads "over there" where folks have had a tough time bleeding the SC. I've read tons of replies by CC giving good advice on how to bleed but he recipient still has no luck.

Those threads along with brake bleeding threads are equivalent.

This has to be due to folks just not understanding simple concepts about hydraulic systems and by that allow me say:

So, My slave finally gave out ~3 years after the Clutch MC was swapped. I found a replacement at Kragen for $38. I bought it and took it home. When I go the car lifted I could clearly see the stock hose and the Kragen SC weren't compatible.

I found a place in Huntington Beach:
Dealer Source
18112 Gothard St.
HB, Ca. 92648
(714) 843-0012

This place stocks all the AC Delco parts and is supposed to sell to GM dealers only, but if you are buying, they are selling......

So I purchased the correct SC that mates with the Stock hose (Banjo bolt style) $88 plus tax

I connected it to the hose and just to be thorough I was going to pump fresh fluid through the whole system. I attached a rubber hose to the bleed valve and cracked it open just a tad. with the SC just hanging by the hose, I then pumped fluid through it......but noticed one thing....the pedal was solid.

Remember what CC said about not blowing the piston out by pressing too hard on the pedal, I was only pushing gingerly.

Anyway, I did this for a while as it didn't seem to get the nasty fluid all the way out...the gray crap was just mixing with the new fluid.... I gave up after a while and just decide to close the valve and attach the SC.

I bolted in place and pushed the pedal.....it was nice and firm feeling.

I started the car and the damn thing slipped into any gear very very smoothly.

I really didn't do ANYTHING of substance, it just bled very very easily.

At this point, I just wonder about the bleeding threads as they all seem to have a common theme......but unless I was watching the troubled "Bleeder" I can't really take a guess as to what they must be doing wrong......It has to be complete lack of understanding of the hydraulic systems.

That is my latest...nothing exciting like some massive HP upgrade.....Maybe later this summer

Have you pulled the valve covers??

Quote:
If you go here....


This pic shows that the mating part is machined with a shoulder on the slave........Mine is the exact opposite with a shoulder void cut into the slave and the hose block has a shoulder on it......

^^The problem arises from the Block not mating to the housing on the new Slave.

The old slave has a square area where the block with the banjo can mate.....

The block with the banjo has a shoulder on it to keep it square on the old Slave...the new slave is not machined the same way at all..

I started to just put it together, but the shoulder on the block would prevent it from ever mating up. The next thing was to change the hose. That is where I stopped and backed off to ask questions

has anyone encountered a Slave Cylinder being different for the '84 than the later years??

What is occurring is that mine has a hose that attaches with a "block" sort of thing.

I went under there thinking that the hose would attach the typical way that you see on any Master Cylinder or brake caliper whereas you would need a Hose wrench.

The replacement I got for it has a hose attachment fitting that is typical.

In order to use this Slave, I would have to change the whole clutch hose.

Any ideas?? Is there another part number I should be looking for?

Quote:
That's the point, this guys repros are so close that no one can tell......not even the Popo

So you go and gets a personalized modern plate, then, you have it repro'd in the classic colors that are in sync with your year model. Mine are Blue and Yellow '84 colors......So if I wanted personalized tags...I'd get the normal ones from the State and pay the fee, then, I'd order some that say the EXACT same thing but in Blue with Yellow writing.

There is a guy that makes plates for you. You give him your current tag number and he makes a plate in the vintage colors/theme that you request.....

Cops can't tell the difference and why would they question??? The plate numbers are all that are described over the radio......they don't say......such and such number on Blue and yellow.....

So if the repro plate and the sticker are all jiving.....no one gives it another thought.

Andy, go to Fantasy Muffler in Buena Park.

These guys are the absolute best and very reasonable. They've taken care of so many things for me over the years....and all because I bought one system from them back when I had my RX7

Classy classy folks

Here is the main problem, when the owner of the truck gets a ticket in the mail, he merely needs to point out that he is not the one driving the truck and the picture is proof of what he states......

Case closed.

Oh, that and the fact that he is not even in the country at the time the charge against him was made.....

There is no way the police can find out who is driving the truck to indict anyone.....

It was a great meet.

Everyone was having a good time and some nice cars showed up.

Nelson, we did hear you for miles.....

CC called me and let me know about this....

So now I'm down for a Fuddruckers...We'll see you all there

I see these on cl all the time for ~$400 set

You may also have the Distributor 180° out.....common common mistake.

You get the teeth perfect....just 180° opposite.....screws with the best of them.

Couple of things,

First, your Diff could have the gears stamped or etched on the bottom of the casing....if you are under there, just wipe the rear of the casing and see if you don't see some writing.

You are worried about the tranny coming out. Trust me when I say, if there is a hint that the tranny needs servicing...another half hour work and that thing is out once the C-beam is gone. If you were ever thinking about having the tranny rebuilt for whatever reason....throw this on the "while you are there" list.

Look up my thread on "grinding the C-beam"....helpful hints.

I can't think of a single thing that would be damaged by having your car on stands..with or without the wheels on.

^^Interesting, you'll remember mine has a leak here......I've replaced all the hoses and the leak still persist.

I've just given up until I have the money for a new rack.

Scroll down to the bottom of this site for a great Tire size calculator

http://www.joby.se/corvette/div/corvette_wheels/

Find a hydraulic hose maker in your area before you order that hose.

You may save yourself a bundle.

Quote:
I'm starting to figure that one out. I'd like to see one apart to see how it differs from what I am dealing with....just to be curious.

Quote:
huh?

If the tranny is out, then you can pop the fork off the pivot ball whenever.....but that is on the 4x3...I think the ZF is different with the way the TO bearing is.

CC will correct me

12mm Hex.....are you trying to take out the Pivot Ball from the bell housing?

If so, it may not need to move. Unless it is scared from the TO Bearing...I'd leave it be.

Your Fork just clips on and off of the ball.

If you take the Pivot Ball off, you can replace it with the adjustable pivot Ball

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/15501/10002/-1?CT=999

This widget allows you to set your pedal exaclty where you think it should be.....I can't use one however, due to the fact that there is only about a 32nd if an inch gap in between the bell housing and tranny housing.....how would you "adjust" it??? I'd have to pull the tranny to take advantage of that feature.

Of course I could attach the bell housing and clutch assembly......and test it there......but then I'd have to make a clutch alignment tool that was longer than the plastic one.....If you didn't have that tool.....once you push the clutch in without the tranny...the disk would fall out of alignment and you'd have to take the clutch back apart to realign it.

5-6 times per wheel....but how many pumps....

Did you start at the Rear Right wheel and work your way closer i.e. RR, LR, RF and finally the left front.

When you check your brake are you doing it with the motor running? There is a Antilock computer that needs resetting sometimes.....maybe look into that.

sux that you have to do that....why not get a starter that actually works the first time.

That's what we need....more misinformation....lol