Waste of money...

Do you have headers? That's the best bang for the buck out there, both performance and sound. Don't worry too much about brand as long as they're long tubes. They're all the same within a few HP. I've used LG, American Racing, Pfadt, etc. all good brands. Texas speed has some out now that are cheaper, buddy put them on his car and is happy.

I can't tell you how many times I've climbed into my C6 through the back hatch. Well, opened the back hatch and used the door releases. But that's not as dramatic.

I can't let her go, it's like an abusive spouse. I tell myself over and over that she didn't mean it, she'll get better, she really loves me she just has a temper.

So the new(ish) C6 guys, what are your comments? I drive mine so little these days...too many electrical bugs. I am getting no starts and such, I think it's something in the interface between the pedal sensor and the ECU. Just don't have the time to throw parts at it, so mostly it sits.

Long time no see, peoples. I grew weary of BS on forums in general and aside from CF "for sale" haven't posted in years. For some reason i thought of this place and decided to pop in. So howdy, all!

Looking forward to Daytona, still driving Corvettes, and decided to up my game so i now have a Freightliner Columbia to tow them around...life ain't all bad

Damn

I haven't been here in a long time and am sad to hear this news.

You can do a cam in an LS without pulling the heads. I've done it in a Saturday afternoon, although I did the opposite, pulled out the high HP cam and put in a stocker. Stupid class HP limits...

Hardest part is shifting the rack out of the way.

Bling, bling!

Yeah, it's kind of funny. I would say the majority of us at the very least do our own brake jobs, but until recently I never gave the caliper itself a second look. Now I disassemble, inspect, and clean them regularly. It's so simple I don't know why never did before.

if you didn't already solve this, you can have my C4 rear calipers. Just pay the shipping.

They worked fine when I took them off, but they've been sitting for five years. There may even be SS lines on them but I can't remember.

INSTALLATION

1.Position tank on frame extension and secure to tank supports with straps.
2.With the aid of an assistant, install tank and frame assembly in vehicle and secure with bolts.
3.Install nuts on right and left vertical retainers.
4.Install 3 nuts securing each side of fascia to horizontal body retainer.
5.Install screws securing bottom edge of fascia energy absorber pad.
6.Install all rear lamps and spare tire lamp.
7.Install fuel tank cable to stabilizer shaft brackets.
8.Install bolt securing fuel vapor pipe to left hand fuel tank strap.
9.Connect antenna ground strap.
10.Install both rear inner fender panels.
11.Install both inner fender braces.
12.Install exhaust system.
13.Connect oxygen sensor electrical connector.
14.Install spare tire and carrier.
15.Lower vehicle.
16.Install bolts securing fascia to impact bar.
17.Install license plate.
18.Connect fuel feed hose, fuel return hoses, vapor hose and fuel meter electrical connector.
19.Install fuel tank filler neck housing and drain hose.
20.Install fuel tank filler door.
21.Connect battery ground cable.
22.Add fuel to tank.

REMOVAL

1.Remove battery ground cable.
2.Drain fuel tank.
3.Remove fuel tank filler door.
4.Remove fuel tank filler neck housing and drain hose.
5.Disconnect fuel feed hose, fuel return hose, vapor hose and electrical connector from fuel meter and pump assembly.
6.Remove license plate to gain access for fascia to impact bar bolts.
7.Remove 2 carriage bolts securing fascia to impact bar.
8.Raise vehicle on hoist.
9.Remove spare tire and tire carrier.
10.Disconnect oxygen sensor electrical connector.
11.Remove exhaust system as a complete unit by disconnecting from front crossover pipe at exhaust manifold. Refer to See: Engine, Cooling and Exhaust\Exhaust System\Diagrams
12.Remove both inner fender braces.
13.Remove both rear inner fender panels.
14.Disconnect antenna ground strap.
15.Remove bolt securing fuel vapor pipe to left hand fuel tank strap.
16.Disconnect fuel tank cables from rear right and left hand stabilizer shaft brackets.
17.Remove all rear lamps (side marker, tail, backup. license plate and spare tire.
18.Remove 4 screws securing bottom edge of fascia to energy absorber pad.
19.Remove 3 nuts securing each side of fascia to horizontal body retainer.
20.Remove nuts from right and left vertical retainers securing fascia to body.
21.Remove 4 frame extension bolts (2 each side).
22.Loosen. but do not remove 4 remaining frame extension bolts.
23.With the aid of an assistant. remove remaining frame extension bolts and pull fuel tank and frame assembly rearward pushing cover outward. Tilt assembly down to remove and clear cover.
24.Remove tank straps and remove tank. If fuel tank is being replaced transfer cables. fuel meter and pump. and fuel vapor connector to new tank

PM me your email, I can cut/paste the pictures as well.

If you're pulling the bumper I'd put in a tube frame instead. Save a few pounds. Melrose used to sell one, but I don't know if they do much C4 stuff these days.

Quote:

It will only be driven to the grocery store, only on Sundays, and only in sunny weather. Which in Michigan means once a year.

I bought my C4 in 1999. That makes 16 years...yikes.

C6 in 2010, C5 in 2013. I guess i got those two backward. Time to add a C7! I'll leave the C3 and earlier to geezers like Bill. I don't know how to file points.

The C4 just sold, but I don't have the cash yet so technically it's still mine.

I am sure my old posts were all about optisparks. And CC, you were going to make me a cool avatar way back with the Ace in the background and never did...slacker.

The LT1 leaks oil no matter what you do. The optispark is fine, don't listen to the people that try to tell you every slight engine issue is because of it. Just don't get it wet...

Convertibles are a waste, you've lost your chassis structural integrity.

The ZF6 is bulletproof and every part of your car will fail before it does.

Stay away from the LS3 heads (IMO). They are problematic, plagued by oiling issues. I am not sure if they are even compatible with the old blocks, but I am sure you've already checked that.

If you're going to port them anyway, stick with the 243 casting.

I think I still have the spare from my '93. Need it?

Tom, glad to see you're still out there. I saw your other thread as well. Any plans for C5 components?

Guys, I am surprised to see the C4 wheel bearing topic open again. CC, you were the guy 10+ years ago that did all the legwork which proved that the C4 bearings just plain suck and there isn't a better option out there.

All of us who raced C4's took your advice and stopped looking for the magic fix. We ran the cheapest ones we could find and just replaced them when necessary (LR every couple weekends, RR maybe once a season). THAT saves money in the long run. I checked that rebuildable link above...$650? You're out of your mind if you pay that much for a bearing. I bought them for $50 each from a local auto store and they lasted as well as any of the "fancy" ones we tried...Hardbar, VanSteel, blah blah blah.

The fronts, in general, were never a problem, so I would never waste more money than whatever Rock Auto sells the cheapest ones for.

Putting a car on a track is hard on this stuff. It takes more effort if you're fast. Give up on bearings, they're a wear item just like your brake pads. I replaced two LF stock bearings in ONE DAY on the C5. Be happy you have a C4

As for end links, if Banski is defunct then you should be able to easily make a set using some decent heim ends and threaded rod. The C4 aftermarket is all but dried up...sad but true.

Also, I have at least one NIB C4 rear bearing. I don't know what brand it is but I'll make you a sweet deal for it...

After spending $2800 on the SKF C5 bearings, replacing my C4 ones regularly doesn't seem so bad.

Welcome back, CC.

Bogus, you can't get the ATE blue anymore. The USA ruled that the blue additive didn't comply with ASE requirements.

It is literally considered a controlled substance and is illegal to stock or sell.

...but I know a guy who knows a guy.

I have installed clutch remote bleeders on all my LSx cars but once you find and practice with the factory bleeder it's really not that bad.


People swear by the remote bleeders, and for sure they make a clutch bleed easier, but I have had two leak. Pulling the engine to replace the bleeder is way more of a PITA than pulling the driver header and digging around underneath once every two years. I doubt I'll use another remote.

I am not sure if there is a filter in the tank or not, so to be safe I added an inline filter externally. Finding the fitting that would allow me to attach stock GM 3/8" fuel line to 6AN was not easy.



This lead to a magical moment when the car could maintain fuel pressure while keeping the floor dry.

I located a C5 fuel line locally and ran out to get it. Feeding that twisted mess of tube through the car with the engine in place is not an easy endeavour. Once I get it all routed I learned something else about 2004 Corvettes: the fuel line is different. GM moved the fuel filter into the tank instead of outside along the frame rail. My new fuel line was too short.

Back to Summit for another round of hoses and fittings...

Built a new fuel supply line:




I had limited time that day to get it installed so I skipped the "disconnect the battery" step. Not smart when working with fuel. Or worse, SS hose. When I crawled under the car to pull the line through, the coiled hose up top slid down against the alternator "hot" line and cooked. More profanity followed.





So Summit got another, strangely similar, order. What's amazing is that I ordered another 10 feet of hose at 9pm that night and it arrived at my house the NEXT day with no expedidted shipping cost. Simply awesome.

So now it's midnight on a Friday night, while all the normal people are out having beers or at home asleep. I resolve the long list of wiring problems and decide it's time to fire up the engine for the first time. (Plus I wanted to hear the glorious open header sounds of an LS6.)

I found a gas station open late, filled up a can, and dumped it into the dry tank. Then cranked the engine for about five seconds and got nothing. Once I stopped cranking I heard a LOT of fluid dumping onto the shop floor. That can't be good...

Turns out the fuel line was punctured and I had pumped about three gallons of gasoline all over the floor. It's a good thing I have the foresight to keep a fire extinguisher handy on a new build!

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As always, interior wiring was a nightmare. The chassis (and BCM) are 2002. The Engine harness was a 2004. The car was an engine fire donor so the factory harness was burned up.

I had a PCM cracked last year when I tuned the C4 with the LS2 in it. The tuner was gracious enough to give me a tune for a 2002 Z06 without security, O2's, etc. so I could at least run the car on and off the trailer.

Well it turns out GM changed the PCM and the connectors in 2003 1/2 due to new emissions requirements. Ugh. I had to either pull the harness or get a new PCM. Luckily, nobody wants the 2004 PCM becuase of the single year existance, so they are cheap.

The same tuner was kind enough to crack that computer for me, too so I could move on with my life.

OF course, I still coulnd't get the car to turn over due to several missing switches...

I designed an ingenious (patent pending) clutch switch mechanism to allow me to fire up the car:

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But I needed power memory seats...

Stripping the interior:

I've seen it but have never used it. What is the pressure rating? Is it oil only, or fuel, PS, etc too?

Who needs a parts car?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Cor ... t=US_Cars_Trucks#ht_0wt_0

Quote:

Naaaah. Just the vise jaw inserts and the big cutter. I can assemble a line pretty quickly with only three or four fingertip punctures apiece.

I did study the differences between all the brands and types since there is such a huge cost disparity among them. For example, the range of a 10AN 90* swivel is from $17.95 for a summit brand to $30 for an Aeroquip. Fragola, Earl's and Russell were somewhere in between. I read good things about Fragola and talked to their tech guys a few times so I used them for most of the plumbing. Anywhere that was easy to get to (for example, the valve is inside the cockpit) I used Summit brand. Figured if they leaked it would be easy to change.

One interesting fact - the Fragola rep said you west coast guys like the cutter style fittings and us over here in the east prefer the slip fit. He said there was no advantage or disadvantage to either, it seemed to be a regional thing.

Bunch of weirdos over there on the coast...

Actually I just sold the LS from the C4. I guess that means she's officially retired. It also means there's a complete LS swap kit about to go up for sale...

Installation options can be discussed but are probably cost prohibitive

Time to build all of the oil lines for the cooler and Accusump.

Part collection:




Measure twice, cut once...or many times.




Finished line #1, complete with fire sleeve. Six more to go.





Setting up the T fitting and check valve for the Accusump. The check valve ensures that the oil goes into the engine and not back into the cooler.

Intermission over, had a couple of weeks off to actually drive it.

I think we were here; engine in, working on accessories, plumbing, and wiring.

What a drag. Must have hurt your heart to see them in person.

Time for an LS swap.

Quote:

I thought that's what Boston was for.

Suspension back with solid bushings installed:

Turns out bellhousings are a rare find. I was having no luck finding a used one and the dealer said there were only three new ones in the entire country. So I bought one.

The next day I found two used ones cheap, of course. So I bought those, too. I now have a stash, although I hope never to break one again. I am smarter now. And know that they changed the pilot bearing in 2005...

Yup it will have data aq. I'll pull the Vbox out of the C4.

I said words that didn't even rhyme with that...

They rhymed with the words for domestic waterfowl and green ladies in black outfits riding brooms.

That's an LS6. It was briefly in the C4 for the summer of 2012. I pulled it to save it for this car and put an LS2 in the C4.

Now I kinda wish I had kept the LS2 for this car, the torque would have been nice.

Put it back in, bolt the cradle in under it:




And leave it in this time.

Install the SPEC aluminum FW and puck style clutch:



Drop in the engine:




Whoops, pull it out again.

Lesson learned. Don't draw the engine to the torque tube with the bolts...

You can pick up the car in any state you want, from bare bones to fully functional car with a pedigree. Your price range then varies accordingly...

I didn't like the used race cars I was seeing and didn't want one that was wrecked. All race cars have been or will be wrecked at some point, but I didn't want to start there. This one was a fresh build from a clean chassis so I bought it.

Doesn't everyone build their cars from scratch?

Next step...put a C4 engine in it.

Suspension removal

First step, take it all apart.

Several hundred hours after build inception the car is off for a windshield, alignment, and tune. I finally have some time to post pictures for the Guru...

Here is the shell as I picked it up last summer, Z06 rolling chassis with a cage. The cage was built by Phoenix Performance outside of Philly.

Edited...didn't realize you had a 2000.

I just fixed some 2001-2004 versions but they are not interchangeable.

Crazy.

I might be parting out the C4...some nice coilovers on her

Although I am quite certain you don't want anything that stiff.

(TWSS)

Thanks for the site, I enjoyed perusing and will be back for updates.

1986 Fiero...my buddy bought one for a winter car. I still laugh when I think about it. Really? What kind of car is worse than a Fiero in the winter?

Don't forget about our early foray into JV's with Europe...Renault LeCar and Fuego.