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Any Corvette from model year 1968 to 1982 is loosely referred to as a Shark. Stemming from the Mako concepts and a general acceptance that the C3 lo...
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   All Posts (Jeffvette)


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Re: If you can't beat'em then cheat!
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Absolute morons. Look at the neighborhood - next to a running path, a guy running with a stroller, another guy riding a bike. Complete A-holes to race there. They deserved what they got.


Texans, what do you expect?

Posted on: 2011/11/29 3:51
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Re: LT1 to LT4 top end upgrade
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Caspers Electronics has them. 30 bucks.

Posted on: 2011/8/8 17:16
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Re: Need some help with my 85.
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24 - VSS
34 - MAF Low
42 - EST
54 - Fuel pump Circuit low voltage

I would ignore the VSS code for know and work on the other three. Also ignore the MAF as a low unsteady idle will cause that.

I would check fuel pressure and make sure the pump is working correctly.

Posted on: 2011/7/27 0:13
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Re: Buying a TECH-II
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Quote:

SpectatorRacing wrote:

Tech II goes back to 1991. Perhaps you can use it on a 1990 as well? I might be able to get SW updates. We need to see how that works but we do have the service contract (or equivilant).

Jeff, where's your CANdi?


CANdi is on loan.

Yep, I have to use the 91 to enter my 90 ZR-1.

Posted on: 2011/7/25 22:34
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Re: Buying a TECH-II
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And a quick little run down.

Get in, the first thing is year selection.
I have 1991 to 2007 (need to get mine updated)

Resized Image


Select the style of vehicle you are working on (I am in 2007 in this menu)

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Select vehicle division, sometimes you will see SAAB on the list.

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Select the body style you are working on. Vette is Y of course.

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This is a look inside the W-body style showing options of the packages. Some body styles are limited and then you choose your transmission.

Resized Image

Posted on: 2011/7/25 6:09
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Re: Buying a TECH-II
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Quote:

bogus wrote:

I like this kinda advice! I agree about the case. I just don't have any sense of its size.



The case is 17"W x 18"L x 8"D

Resized Image

Posted on: 2011/7/25 5:51
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Re: Buying a TECH-II
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Quote:

bogus wrote:


11. Usage is restricted to one week - 7 days - at a time. I advise that we use USPS Flat Rate Boxes to ship it about. The last user will pay shipping both ways... what this means is that you will toss a $20.00 bill into the package so I don't have to pay out the ass every time it gets sent out! It must be insured for $2500 and with tracking, signature required.


Andy, I highly suggest that you use the Tech II case to ship this thing about the country. It keeps everything organized and protected. The bad part is, the case is huge. And will not fit into a USPS flat rate box. I would also suggest not using USPS to ship this at all. Use Fedex or UPS.

Posted on: 2011/7/25 3:12
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Re: Buying a TECH-II
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
I may be stupid (shutup Tommy) but:

Doesn't the Tech 1 require specific modules for Corvettes?


No, it does not. It specifies cartridges for which system you are hitting, unless you have the mass storage cartridge.


Quote:

BillH wrote:I read somewhere that you have to be careful when buying a II with all the ones being copied in China.


Yes, there are several Chinese knockoffs. Quality is iffy. Especially on the CANdi modules.

Quote:

BillH wrote:Also read that you have to be a GM dealer to download new software (might not be correct).
But the Corvette software can be purchased.
Need the CAN module for '97 & above?


Dealer has to login to update and flash the card for yearly updates. Or if you know somebody that knows how to clone a card, it can be copied.

Corvette software? Tech II houses info for every vehicle for that year.

CANdi module is for 2005 and newer vehicles.

Posted on: 2011/7/25 3:08
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Re: Buying a TECH-II
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Quote:

bogus wrote:


Should we do a Tech I first? That will do up to 1995? Then a Tech II?


A tech I with the correct cartridge and connector will handle early OBD2 cars.

Posted on: 2011/7/25 3:04
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Re: Buying a TECH-II
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Quote:

TommyT-Bone wrote:
Sadly, having a 90 and 91 I won't have use for this tool. It works on 92 and up, correct? Here's a link. Maybe you can spot a bargain.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_trkparms ... p3286.c0.m14.l1513&_pgn=1


It will work down to a 90 from my own experience. But not all functions will work.

Posted on: 2011/7/25 3:03
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Re: Audi R8 vs ZR1
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Quote:

jdtireman wrote:
In any comparison he will always say the european car is better, always. When they came to the US and did a show featuring the Vette, CTSV and Challenger, they all said the Vette was an amazing car...go figure. As a C6 owner I have to admit that the interior is not the best I've ever seen, but who friggin cares? Find a bit of twisty road on a sunny afternoon and start thrashing. Get the RPMs up, make that bad boy bark some...I guarendammtee you that interior build quality will not be troubling you! They are awesome cars to drive and I count myself one lucky S.O.B. that I was able to buy one while I still have enough guts to push it and have fun. Oh yeah, his personal car is a Ford GT...I'm sure there is no bias in his reporting


He sold the GT twice! As it was a POS.

Granted the C6 interior has vastly improved. It still lags behind every other premium model. Clarkson would love the Vette if they improved the interior, gave it a non flexible back bumper and coilovers.

Posted on: 2011/7/24 0:44
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Re: Bypass 90 corvette stock alarm
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When you bought you new cylinder and key, did you make sure the vats code matched up to your old key?

Posted on: 2011/7/22 18:19
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Re: 2011 Corvette Build Stats!
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Except the Z06/ZR1 numbers do not add up.

Posted on: 2011/7/22 18:14
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Re: Does this look ok to you guys?
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Quote:

SpectatorRacing wrote:
Jeff, you have a set of ported LT1 heads? i can't get ahold of the local guy I like and time is short...


Sorry, no LT1 stuff sitting on the shelf. As mentioned contact Ron. I know he had a bunch of stuff available a while back.

Posted on: 2011/7/20 22:43
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Re: 383 short block for sale
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PM sent

Posted on: 2011/7/20 22:42
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Re: my first SS
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These cars were great when new. Problem is after 5 years, they really showed their age. Shame they were built with low GM quality.

Posted on: 2011/7/19 18:37
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Re: Does this look ok to you guys?
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Looks to be within tolerances.

Posted on: 2011/7/19 18:36
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Re: 86-96 C4 No Flex Frame Stiffener Bar System
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It has been debated, and I am still skeptical about the utility of these braces.

Posted on: 2011/7/19 18:35
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Re: For REAL? Seeds?!!!! (NWS)
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Quote:

screamin_conure wrote:

Poor little 'Vette.


That Corvette is living a better life than it had previously. Living its life on the track like it was meant to.

And for prior reference.

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/ ... id=142367#forumpost142367

Posted on: 2011/7/16 20:57
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Re: Finally, a Movie Worth Seein'
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Looks like the track footage is from Pacific Raceway or Seattle Raceway.... whatever you want to call it.

Posted on: 2011/7/14 0:04
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Re: Bought a KENT MOORE J-35890, J-35592, J-36210, J-39700-25
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Quote:

JrRifleCoach wrote:
Will the breakout box allow us to read codes and reset the module?

I have the dreaded heavy pedal on my 86 and and have temporarily resolved it with pulling the fuse.

So this whole exersize is learning to fix the problem (replace) and pass on the knowledge and tooling to this forum

Steve


No, the breakout box does nothing, other than allow you to check wire continuity and ohms and other electrical gremlins.

Posted on: 2011/7/11 23:45
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Re: Bought a KENT MOORE J-35890, J-35592, J-36210, J-39700-25
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J-35890 - Bosch ABS I tester
J-35592 - ABS pinout box (so you don't destroy the terminals back probing.)
J-36210 - Bosch ABS III tester
J-39700-25 - For use on a C5 for ABS/TCS

Posted on: 2011/7/11 2:35
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Re: I just bought a KENT MOORE J-35890 ABS test box
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Quote:

JrRifleCoach wrote:
The box WORKS!!!!

Now from what I gather, it tests the pump/chassis side of the system.
When the manual arrives we'll see if it can read the ABS brain.




No, it can not read the ABS brain. You have to have a Tech 1 with the correct cartridge. As you are disconnecting the brain when hooking the 35890 up.

The 35890 just tests the ABS side of the functions.

Posted on: 2011/7/11 2:31
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Re: Need Accelerator control Cable Clip...
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Several left in the dealer network. Even though it is a discontinued item.

Closest dealership for you is Watson in AZ (520) 292-1500
Or Jerry SPady GM in Nebraska (402) 463-4000

Posted on: 2011/6/28 3:59
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Re: Headliner opinions needed
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Sorry, wasn't me on the radio. Got your PM, I'll get your parts out to you when I get back home.

Posted on: 2011/6/26 16:45
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Re: Air Conditioning quit working....
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Quote:

Churchkey wrote:
Did you just change the radio? If so you need to install 2 resistors in the original radio wiring harness on 90 to 93 models.
If the resistors are omitted during the radio installation the AC will have the same problem as you are experiencing.



I believe you are thinking of the dimmer circuit. But, there is always a first time.

Posted on: 2011/6/25 18:48
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Re: Headliner opinions needed
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I've got mine to replace as well, lost the headliner after shooting up to 120 with the windows down.

I bought some Alcantara to use as my material. Just need to sit down and cut the template and glue it in.

Posted on: 2011/6/25 18:47
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Re: i hate c4 hood latches
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Take a look at the actual pull handle under the dash and make sure the ends are sitting correctly.

Posted on: 2011/6/25 18:45
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Re: Want parts, here ya go
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Send me your address and just pay for shipping and they are yours.

Posted on: 2011/6/13 0:53
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Re: Flying Lizards
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I like it.


And as far as the Vettes go. GM has no balls. They have to keep things PC and nice. You will never see another Jake theme. Like you did a few years ago.

Posted on: 2011/6/5 7:13
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Re: Helm Service Manual Fire Sale!
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96 the full set?

Posted on: 2011/6/5 7:12
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Re: Tips or tricks for pulling engine?
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
Getting my arse kicked by 2 bellhousing bolts on the drivers side. Tried using 1/2 drive sockets and extensions but I can't seem to get them to break loose.

I compressor and an air ratchet would make life so much easier at this point.


A breaker bar helps, or in a pinch 1/2" wrench with a floor jack handle slipped on it. Not sure what it is about those bolts, they seize up in there pretty good considering they do not require a lot of tq to tighten down.

Posted on: 2011/5/28 19:34
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Re: My "agent86" A.I.R. delete plate
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Yep, I have the oversize alternator. So off to modify I go. I'll be doing it a different route.

Posted on: 2011/5/28 19:29
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Re: Well it died on Saturday (engine)
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My thoughts, throw the factory LT1 in there until after your event.

Unless:

You have a good head guy nearby who can get yours repaired asap.

You can replace the timing chain in the car, a little tight but doable. What chain were you running?

Posted on: 2011/5/28 19:23
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Re: Want parts, here ya go
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Send me your email, and I'll send over some pics. All I have on me currently are the dash surround and the radio surround pics.


Actually had a pic of the radio surround uploaded already.

Resized Image

Posted on: 2011/5/13 17:16
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Re: Brake lights...
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That would be your problem.

Posted on: 2011/5/9 21:59
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Re: Want parts, here ya go
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All parts will go into the garbage come Saturday 14th.

Posted on: 2011/5/9 21:59
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Want parts, here ya go
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84-89 Radio surround
84-89 gauge cluster surround
84-96 A pillar both sides
Halo pieces (from an 85) black


Just make an offer. I want it off my shelves.

Posted on: 2011/5/9 1:22
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Re: Badest IRS in the land.....so far
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I can appreciate the work, but a waste of a Z06.

Posted on: 2011/5/9 1:20
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Re: Brake lights...
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Your car at some time may have had a euro brake light kit installed. This requires the white wire to be cut.

Posted on: 2011/5/9 1:17
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Re: Brake lights...
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If you do need the new switch assem, it is part number 1995974. Dealer cost is 46.93 and retail is 93.86.

Posted on: 2011/5/7 20:49
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Re: Brake lights...
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Removing the bracket may help give you some room. I'd have to crawl back under and see. Been a while since I played around with one.

Posted on: 2011/5/7 20:45
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Re: Brake lights...
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It does require removal on the wheel and SIR Coil. It is a crap job.

Before you go to the trouble of doing this, check the connector on the column. It has about twelve wires going into it and is a long flat connector.

Posted on: 2011/5/7 20:26
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Re: Brake lights...
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The switch assembly is the top right hand side of the steering column. It is buried with a bunch of connectors and wires. From my memory, it is the only set of stuff on the right hand side of the column.

Posted on: 2011/5/7 19:39
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Re: Brake lights...
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Quote:

Fredbird wrote:
I am looking at the chart... I assume Term B is the middle wire on the 3 wire harness?

Also, how do I know what are CKT 140, 17, 150(G401), 20

I know I need to get a Shop Manual... Workin' on that... just got the car a month ago.


CKT 140 Orange wire. Power, goes to connector cavity B
CKT 17 White wire. Stop lamp feed to hazard, goes to connector cavity A
CKT 150(G401) Black wire, goes to ground(passenger side halo)
CKT 20 Light Blue wire. Feeds CHMSL and ABS, goes to connector cavity C

Posted on: 2011/5/7 5:54
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Re: Brake lights...
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Quote:

bogus wrote:
Check the attached PDF.

If I was a betting man, I would be checking grounds.

Also, if the sockets are bunged up, they will effect operation, too.



At least give the guy a chance by giving him the wire chart.

Posted on: 2011/5/7 5:48
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Re: I'm going to ruin another perfectly good Corvette
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
Nice! What year is it?


Looks to be an 05.

And I wouldn't say ruin. You are enhancing it!

Posted on: 2011/5/4 20:36
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Re: Tuning Out the Oil Level Sensor? WWYD?
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Talking about separate sensors. Low oil level light is just an idiot light. I do not believe it stops anything from functioning. It just says add oil.


The pressure switch, goes down to 5 psi before it shuts down if I remember correctly. Already at 5 psi you are reaching a critical point. You will be starving the top end for oil.

But seriously, once you are racing and you lose oil pressure or oil general, your motor is toast. Which is why people run accusumps.

Posted on: 2011/5/4 18:11
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Re: What tires to get?
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Sumitomos are dirt cheap and adequate for a DD tire. Don't expect the best adhesion. I would ditch the rear 17x11's and find another set of 17 x 9.5's.

Posted on: 2011/5/4 16:16
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Re: Tuning Out the Oil Level Sensor? WWYD?
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Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
However, it does provide insurance in the event some event occurs to cause a sudden dump of oil. It will alert you to that event.


You will have been alerted it is time to rebuild the motor. Just unplug the connector and secure it, put a bung in the pan, and either remove the parameter in the ECM or figure out the resister to get the light to stay off.

Posted on: 2011/5/4 16:06
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