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JeffK Head gasket leaking
Elite Guru
High Point, NC
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Well, looks like I get the joy of doing head gaskets on my Vette. I kept smelling antifreeze but could not find it on the ground or anywhere under the hood, until this morning. Got to work and popped the hood. There's coolant lying on the passenger side front of the intake and dribbling down the front of the block. The only place that I can see where it might be leaking is the front corner of the head gasket. Unless the gasket in the TB coolant bowl has given out.

Sorry not a technical question more of a vent. It's been one thing after another with this car!!!


Wife gives it the eye everytime she walks by it.
Posted on: 2010/9/23 11:37
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flyboy Re: Head gasket leaking
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Hope it's something simple.
Posted on: 2010/9/23 12:50
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1Fast04Vert Re: Head gasket leaking
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The hills of N. Georgia
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I would bet on the TB coolant hose more than a head gasket.
Posted on: 2010/9/23 14:43
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bogus Re: Head gasket leaking
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Agreed. The head gasket is not prone to failure there... check the throttle body... also check the hoses to and from the throttle body; they may have cracked/split.
Posted on: 2010/9/23 15:34
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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High Point, NC
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I looked at it a little again after lunch.

Could it be the intake gasket? The coolant is lying right under the runners by above plug #2 if that makes sense.
Posted on: 2010/9/23 17:48
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bogus Re: Head gasket leaking
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yes, it makes sense.

Ask yourself this question: If it was the head gasket, how in the hell did it get there?

This smells like an intake gasket or the steam vent tube is leaking.
Posted on: 2010/9/23 21:33
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JAKEJR Re: Head gasket leaking
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Borrow a coolant system pressure tester from AutoZone and use it to check to see where the coolant is coming from.

What year is your engine? Good idea to always post that info in your original post. Keeps us from having to search for it or guess.

Jake
Posted on: 2010/9/24 4:35
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96 Vette; 388 CID, all forged bottom end, ported AFRs, etc.
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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High Point, NC
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Sorry, its a 90 L98 w/ 130K on the clock. New water pump.

I looked at it a little last night and I think it is leaking at the T-stat neck and running across the intake mani then pooling there under the front runners on the passenger side. Someone before me had changed the t-stat using what looks like a whole tube of blue RTV on the neck!
Posted on: 2010/9/24 10:53
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Matatk Re: Head gasket leaking
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If there is RTV on the entire neck I'd venture to say it's cracked and someone was too lazy to buy a new one for $12.00. All I use when I change mine is the felpro paper $1.99 gasket.

Matthew
Posted on: 2010/9/24 11:21
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1Fast04Vert Re: Head gasket leaking
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The hills of N. Georgia
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
Sorry, its a 90 L98 w/ 130K on the clock. New water pump.

I looked at it a little last night and I think it is leaking at the T-stat neck and running across the intake mani then pooling there under the front runners on the passenger side. Someone before me had changed the t-stat using what looks like a whole tube of blue RTV on the neck!


Whole lot better than a head gasket.
Posted on: 2010/9/24 13:58
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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High Point, NC
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If that is the problem I will be very happy!

Taking the wife to Savannah for her birthday this weekend so it will have to be next week.

Do I have to take the plenum off to get to the t-stat housing?
Posted on: 2010/9/24 14:05
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Matatk Re: Head gasket leaking
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:

Do I have to take the plenum off to get to the t-stat housing?


No. Do you have the throttle body coolant bypass done already? I can't remember if that hose will interfere.

I think when I did mine a few months ago I just used some swivel sockets and a ratcheting wrench without even removing the t/b.

Matthew
Posted on: 2010/9/24 18:13
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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High Point, NC
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TB bypass not done. Might do it tonight when I do the T-stat gasket since I will be messing with coolant anyways.

What if any are the positive reasons to install a low temp t-stat?
Posted on: 2010/9/27 13:50
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Randyj75 Re: Head gasket leaking
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MD
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
Sorry, its a 90 L98 w/ 130K on the clock. New water pump.

I looked at it a little last night and I think it is leaking at the T-stat neck and running across the intake mani then pooling there under the front runners on the passenger side. Someone before me had changed the t-stat using what looks like a whole tube of blue RTV on the neck!


I had the same problem when I installed a new water pump. The intake started leaking right by the front bolt on the drivers side, replaced the intake gaskets, all was fine.

Good luck w/ your problem.

Randy
Posted on: 2010/9/27 16:15
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1Fast04Vert Re: Head gasket leaking
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
TB bypass not done. Might do it tonight when I do the T-stat gasket since I will be messing with coolant anyways.

What if any are the positive reasons to install a low temp t-stat?


Unless you reprogram your fans there is no reason to mess with the t/stat.
Posted on: 2010/9/27 16:27
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Matatk Re: Head gasket leaking
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
TB bypass not done. Might do it tonight when I do the T-stat gasket since I will be messing with coolant anyways.

What if any are the positive reasons to install a low temp t-stat?


I recommend doing the bypass. Make sure when you replace the bolts in the thermostat neck you use sealant.

As far as the t-stat, this is the debate for ages. Honestly. My personal opinion is that on a stock motor with a correctly maintained cooling system it's not necessary. If you went lower, that's a personal choice, but 180 is the lowest I would go on an L98. (L98s use 195 stock, LT1s use 180). Without reprogramming your fans like Andy said you probably won't see too much difference.

Matthew
Posted on: 2010/9/27 17:27
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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Quote:

Randyj75 wrote:

I had the same problem when I installed a new water pump. The intake started leaking right by the front bolt on the drivers side, replaced the intake gaskets, all was fine.

Good luck w/ your problem.

Randy


I hope it isn't that but damned if it doesn't sound spot on. I am going to get into it tonight and see what's what.

Probably get the t-stat neck off and see if that's messed up or cracked.
Posted on: 2010/9/27 20:14
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Josh Re: Head gasket leaking
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Raleigh, NC
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Why not rent the pressure checker and find the leak before just tearing into it? Coolant leaks are one of the easiest things to find if the coolant is making it to the ground. The pressure tester will tell you in just a few seconds where the leak is.
Posted on: 2010/9/27 23:28
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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I decided to just get the tstat and do the TB bypass...turns out the intake manifold is part of the problem and the distributor seal is leaking too. My intake and thd front of the engine are covered in all manners of engine fluids. The rtv that is supposed to seal the front of thd manifold somehow got pushed out. There was about 1/4" sticking out and I could see that it was leaking there. I wonder if the rear is leaking too since there is oil on the dust shield. I thought it was the rear main but hopefully it is the manifold gasket. Anyway. I got the plenum and runners off tonight. Not sure when I will have more time to work on it.

I assume that it tells me somewhere in the FSM what to do before pulling the distributor right?

Excuse any typos. Posting from my crackberry
Posted on: 2010/9/28 1:26
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JAKEJR Re: Head gasket leaking
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KEMPNER, TEXAS
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If the stat housing is aluminum (like my 86 housing was), many times it'll warp, especially if it's been tightened down too tightly. I had that problem with my 86.

Pep Boys (and perhaps others) sells a cast iron version that solved that problem.

Jake
Posted on: 2010/9/28 11:18
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My son, Ryan M. Cameron, graduated from West Point on 22 May 2010! He was commissioned as a 2nd Lieutenant and I pinned on his first pair of "Butter Bars" PROUDEST DAY OF MY LIFE!!
96 Vette; 388 CID, all forged bottom end, ported AFRs, etc.
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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High Point, NC
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Yes, it is aluminum. I didn't even take it off yet.

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwODUtMjAxMDA5MjctMjEwOC5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwODYtMjAxMDA5MjctMjEwOC5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]

And the NASTY!

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/SU1HMDAwODctMjAxMDA5MjctMjEwOC5qcGc.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2010/9/28 11:30
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Matatk Re: Head gasket leaking
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That's pretty much how my intake looked after 20 years, and i suspect the gaskets were changed one time.

As far as the distributor goes, you can take a piece of tape and mark it on the top of the cap and the windshield so you know the correct orientation when you reinstall it. You can also put the motor at TDC before you pull it to help. This just makes it easier when it goes back in. Other than that it's a few wires and one bolt to pull it out.

The rest is just removal and reinstallation. It's really not too bad. Get the top end gasket kit, it will include everything you need. I like to use "The Right Stuff" gasket maker for the china walls (front and rear) - don't use that stupid cork thing they put in the gasket package. Nice thing about TRS is it sets up almost immediately so you can put everything back together and get going. Some guys still prefer to use RTV since it takes longer to set and can spend more time getting everything in place.

Also, might be a good time to get rid of the torx screws and get one of the allen head sets off ebay. I didn't and should have. If the intake comes off again I will switch.

Good luck!

Matthew
Posted on: 2010/9/28 12:21
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Matatk Re: Head gasket leaking
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Sorry, one more thing. If the water neck has just a tiny minor bend/warp in it, you might be able to sand it down a tiny bit to make it straight, but if it's got a crack or a huge gap I'd just buy a new one, they aren't too expensive.

Matthew
Posted on: 2010/9/28 12:22
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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High Point, NC
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I have never heard of "The right stuff" is that available at AutoZone or NAPA?

I need to get an EGR block off plate too so, I might see about getting the bolt set too. I hate those Torx heads!
Posted on: 2010/9/28 13:23
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Matatk Re: Head gasket leaking
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TRS is available at any auto parts store.

As far as the block off plate, I spent a couple dollars more than the cheap one and got a really nice billet aluminum set off ebay. It was around $25. Very nice quality. You can find cheap steel ones for like $15.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY- ... uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Posted on: 2010/9/28 13:32
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BillH Re: Head gasket leaking
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
I have never heard of "The right stuff" is that available at AutoZone or NAPA?


I get the Right Stuff at O-Rileys and NAPA. I've eliminated using RTV almost totally.
You have plenty of time to use it before it sets. It takes almost as long as RTV to set but it's so good that you can run the car immediately after assembly.
Personally, I buy it in a "caulk" tube to use in a caulk gun but it's a bit more expensive that way.

On your disty, just bump the engine with the cap off until the rotor points exactly to the front.
Posted on: 2010/9/28 13:44
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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There is the TPIparts seller on Ebay that is about 15 minutes from me. He has the billet block off plates for $28 and the allen bolt set for $42 which seems a little steep to me.

I picked up some black RTV last night but I might have to get some Right Stuff before I put everything back together.

I like the idea of aiming the rotor towards the front of the engine.
Posted on: 2010/9/28 14:05
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BillH Re: Head gasket leaking
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
I like the idea of aiming the rotor towards the front of the engine.


Note that when you pull the disty. you'll probably spin the oil pump drive a tad, just enough that when reinstalling the disty, it won't sit down on the manifold the whole way. And the rotor will be just slightly off dead front.

There's 2 ways to deal with it. You can pull the disty back out and spin the pump drive slot with a long screw driver back about a 1/16th turn. reinsert the disty and see if it's sitting against the manifold.
Or, if you're confident that it's in right, you can bump the engine over until the slot lines up and the disty will fall down on to the manifold.
Posted on: 2010/9/28 14:16
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86PACER Re: Head gasket leaking
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Definately not the head gasket.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omi1ZRJYKDg

For the front and rear china walls of the block you want to lay a healthy bead (about the same width as the china wall) of Right Stuff across and overlap onto the heads by about 1". You bead should be continuous with no breaks or air bubbles (can farts). You must remove the screw on nozzle to get a thick bead out of the can. Some Fel-Pro sets come with cork strips for this. They suck megaballs and should be tossed in the trash. Plus they are too thick and won't allow you get the intake bolts holes aligned to start the threads.

Your sealing surfaces should be immaculate. I like using a razor tip scraper to get the surfaces real clean and brake cleaner for the final wipe down:
Resized Image

Next while it's still tacky lay the intake gaskets down. Now add more Right Stuff overlapping only on the top uncovered edges of the gaskets with the rest of the bead.

You want to have an overlapping bead both underneath and above both the edges of the intake gaskets at the front and rear china walls for a reliable seal.

Set the intake down exactly or start over. Don't set down then shift it around to align the holes.

Finish with a pressure test of the system to find any remaining leaks (I would have done this before teardown to see what else was leaking). Autozone rents this unit which works perfectly if you're cheap and don't want to buy one. When pumping don't exceed the radiator cap's psi rating (16 lbs).

Resized Image
Posted on: 2010/9/28 23:57
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bogus Re: Head gasket leaking
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San Pedro, CA
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coolant pressure tester and penis enlarger? Sorry... had to go there...

Get a lot of simple green... And a pressure washer if you have one. Get that grime OFF!!!
Posted on: 2010/9/29 0:04
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
Elite Guru
High Point, NC
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I got the intake off tonight. Wow there's a bunch of shit on top of that thing!
The inside of the engine is pretty much in the condition that I expected... tarnished with a dash of sludge. Not much sludge. At this point I wish I had the money to just upgrade to the TPIS manifold and runners, change the rockers/lifters/pushrods and well you all know how the list grows from there. But I am just going to clean it up the best I can and put it back together.

I scraped all of the gasket leftovers off and lightly sanded the mating surfaces on the heads and block. Tomorrow I am going to attack the manifold. I think I am going to take the fuel rails and injectors off then take it somewhere to get it cleaned since I don't really have the facilities to do that as well as I'd like.
Posted on: 2010/9/29 0:52
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JAKEJR Re: Head gasket leaking
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You might as well my contribution then:

The problem of a leaking intake manifold so often surfaces on this and many other Forums, I decided to write this procedure. I have found, over the years, this procedure to be a fool-proof way to address the problem.

However, like so many other things, there are other methods that can work equally well, it's just that over the past 40 years or so, I've found this one to work best for me. Believe me, I've tried a LOT of different methods, too.

Most often, the leak will occur at the rear of the intake manifold in the area we commonly refer to as the "China Wall". Over the years I've come to conclude that increasing crank case pressure - caused by excessive blow-by - causes the sealant (or gasket on engines using them) to be forced out, resulting in an oil leak.

The lessening of torque on the intake manifold bolts can, over time, result in a leak too. Some bolts, over time, can become so loose they can actually be turned with nothing more than your fingers. So we're dealing with a double whammy, neither of which is good if you want an intake that doesn't leak.

I've had my share of intake leaks in the rear China Wall area. Many years ago one of my racing engines was waved off the starting line at the track due to the intake leaking oil. That was so embarrassing, I decided to find a way to prevent a recurrence. What I finally came up with is a combination of "old" and "new" school applications.


So here's how I now do it:

In removing the leaking intake, special care should be taken to insure no foreign particles fall into the lifter valley or down the holes in the block used for oil drain-back or the distributor/oil pump drive. It may be difficult to prevent every piece from falling in, but if one does, be sure to pick it/them out.

Next, all the mating surfaces must be cleaned thoroughly to be free of any oil, coolant or gasket material. This can be done using something as simple as carburetor/brake cleaner. I prefer brake cleaner since it leaves no residue. Go over the surfaces several times to be sure all residue has been removed. This is critical to allow the sealant to, well, seal and not move.

Once the block, heads and intake are squeaky clean it's time to improve the ability of the sealant to adhere. I specified sealant since the cork or rubber gaskets that still come with some intake manifold gaskets SHOULD NOT BE USED - DISCARD THEM!

I then dimple BOTH China Walls (front and rear) on the block using a nail set; this is the Old School/Old Racer's trick. I also do the same dimpling on the corresponding areas on the underside of the intake manifold, both front and rear.

The little dimples give the silicone sealant (to be applied later) something to "bite" into. Although I've never actually counted them, I guess I end up with around 30 or more dimples at each of the four locations. I space them about 1/8" apart.

I have a photo of the dimples I installed on my 388 if you're interested. I'd post it here, but I think it would 'time-out' over time and no longer be viewable.

I simply use a normal claw hammer and a nail-set to create the dimples. They only have to be deep enough to grab your finger-nail. The process is easy to do and doesn't take long.

After all are done, I wipe down the areas with a rag wetted with brake cleaner a few times. The cleaner will evaporate quickly leaving a clean, dry surface.

I use Permatex Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealant (SSSS), this is the New School trick. I apply a thin layer on BOTH sides of the intake gaskets and apply it around all the intake ports and all the coolant openings (if the intake manifold has them).

Some prefer using other sealants, like 'The Right Stuff', etc., but Permatex SS has always worked for me - so "if it ain't broke don't fix it" is my train of thought.

Then I set the gaskets in place and lightly press down on them to position them correctly on the cylinder heads.

I then apply a 3/8" diameter bead of SSSS to the China Walls. I use a 3/8" bead rather than the 1/4" bead you may see in some manuals. I've found that a 3/8" bead seals better. If you're unsure of the diameter, just take a look at the diameter of the threaded end of a intake manifold bolt; that's 3/8".

I carry those beads, unbroken, up and onto the four corners of the intake manifold gaskets to seal the areas where the intake meets the cylinder heads and block.

I then immediately install the intake manifold, BEFORE the SSSS skins over. I want the SSS, while still wet, to be able to flow into any crevice and especially the dimples. Once it cures, usually 24 hours, the SSS is anchored in place.

When installing the intake manifold, I set the intake straight down with no back or forth movement. I look through the intake manifold bolt holes to align them with the holes in the heads.

Minimizing back and forth or side to side movement of the intake is desirable to prevent disturbing the SSSS. STRAIGHT DOWN IS THE KEY!

I then install all the intake manifold bolts by hand, finger tight with Anti-Seize applied to the threads. I always use washers under the heads and lube both of them with 30W engine oil. Washers installed under the heads of the intake bolts more evenly distributes the clamping force.

I follow the torque sequence shown in my shop manual. The torque sequence differs depending on the year/model of the engine, so you'll need to refer to a manual to see which one is recommended for the engine you're working on.

My thinking on this is 'there has to be a reason why GM recommended a certain sequence so, absent contrary evidence, why re-invent the wheel?.

I use at least three steps to torque all the bolts to 35 ft lbs of torque.

Now here's another trick that I feel has always helped contribute to excellent sealing:

I let the intake set for an hour or so, (while I'm doing something else) then go over every bolt in the same torque sequence, tightening (re-torquing) them as needed.

It's not unusual to find that one or more bolts has lost torque due, I believe, to compression of the gaskets. I wait for another hour or so, then go over all the bolts again.

I keep doing this - going over the torque - until all the bolts hold the 35 ft/lb (lb/ft if you prefer) torque setting. After all the bolts have held the torque setting, I know I'm good to go.

In torquing down the bolts, some amount of sealant on the China Walls will be forced out - Not a problem. Once cured, the SSS won't break off and those of you who may be concerned about piece of SSSS falling into the lifter valley needn't be. It won't happen.

For those who may be somewhat anal and who wish to remove the small amount of SSSS which protrudes from the exterior of the China Walls, be sure to wait until the SSSS has fully cured. Then take a very sharp razor blade and slice away the unwanted sealant. I never do, preferring NOT to disturb the seal.

Should it ever become necessary to pull the intake again - like when swapping cams, etc., - the SSSS that's been compressed into the dimples can be easily removed.

If it's done like this, the sucka won't leak down the road.

Hope this helps.

Jake
Posted on: 2010/9/30 5:08
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BillH Re: Head gasket leaking
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Nice write up Jake.
I think it's really the way to go with RTV, especially the squeaky clean surfaces. Any hint of oil/lube is bad for RTV, it will never adhere to the surface correctly. And letting it sit then re-torque is a must. This way does get you leak free sealing.

Personally, I have switched to the Right Stuff. I've done a couple of intakes without the dimples, mostly because I wanted to see how well the RS worked. On my personal car, 15k miles and 3 years, zero leaks, nice and dry.


"if it ain't broke don't fix it", totally agree.
Posted on: 2010/9/30 13:40
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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Wow Jake, that is an awesome write-up! It should be a sticky!

I have read about the dimpling on that other forum and forgot about it. I'm glad you mentioned it. I will do that too. I'm still thinking that I might go with the right stuff.

Has anyone ever had the head gaskets start leaking after doing just the intake manifold gasket? I helped a buddy do a manifold gasket on his V6 Ranger and less than a month later the head gaskets started to leak.
Posted on: 2010/9/30 14:46
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BillH Re: Head gasket leaking
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:

Has anyone ever had the head gaskets start leaking after doing just the intake manifold gasket? I helped a buddy do a manifold gasket on his V6 Ranger and less than a month later the head gaskets started to leak.


Just coincidence.
Posted on: 2010/9/30 14:48
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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I hope so. He was mildy upset that we had to tear it even further down to do the had gaskets...then he traded it on a GMC Sierra.
Posted on: 2010/9/30 15:32
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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Ever had one of those nights when you should just stayed in the house? That was me last night.

Stopped on the way home and picked up a new FPR diapraghm since it's easily accessed right now. Didn't realize that I needed a T-10 security bit to get to it.

The EGR block off plate that I got from the local speed shop was the wrong one. (My stupidity)

Didn't get all the oil and stuff off the plenum and runners before painting.

I did get the intake manifold pretty clean though...
Posted on: 2010/10/1 11:31
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Matatk Re: Head gasket leaking
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:


Stopped on the way home and picked up a new FPR diapraghm since it's easily accessed right now. Didn't realize that I needed a T-10 security bit to get to it.



Take a dremel and notch those screws so you can remove them with a flathead screwdriver. You can also change them to hex or allen bolts once removed. You'll thank yourself later.

Matthew
Posted on: 2010/10/1 14:15
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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I had one of the bits for those FPR screws in a kit at my moms house so I got them yesterday. Went back and started to change out the diapraghm.

[IMG]http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s46/kresge1975/YnJva2UgZnByIHNjcmV3LmpwZw.jpg[/IMG]

The very first screw that I tried to take out...breaks!!

This car is cursed!

So after a trip to Lowe's the only thing that I managed to get done last night was drill that out and tap it and put the EGR block-off on. I gave up for the night after that.
Posted on: 2010/10/4 11:29
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bogus Re: Head gasket leaking
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Good luck finding those screws... they are a whacky size...
Posted on: 2010/10/4 17:55
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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They are now 6-32 :D
Posted on: 2010/10/4 18:49
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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installing it now.

There are short and long bolts. I did not notice that when I took them out.

I'm assuming that the longer ones go in the 4 corners?

Anyone know?

Thanks,
Jeff
Posted on: 2010/10/4 23:13
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Matatk Re: Head gasket leaking
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Quote:

JeffK wrote:
installing it now.

There are short and long bolts. I did not notice that when I took them out.

I'm assuming that the longer ones go in the 4 corners?

Anyone know?

Thanks,
Jeff


Which bolts are you talking about? The FPR bolts are all the same size. There are 4 regular hex head bolts that hold the fuel rails down to the lower intake. The upper intake manifold/runners have 3 different sized bolts (the torx bolts) to hold that together. The lower intake uses all the same size.

Matthew
Posted on: 2010/10/5 12:51
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Matatk Re: Head gasket leaking
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Here are some numbers from CentralCoaster - you can thank him for the info:

TB = (4) M8x70
Throttle bracket = (3) M6x12
Distributor cover & TB plate = (9) M4x12

Intake base = (12) 3/8-16x1"
L98 Tstat = (2) 3/8-16x1.25"
EGR = (2) 5/16-18x1"

Perimeter VC's = (8) 1/4-20x1"
centerbolt VC's = (8) 1/4-20x3.5"

Top of runners into plenum:

(7) M8x30
plus the special bolt with throttle cable holder.


Bottom of runners into intake baseplate:

(4) M8x55 underneath each runner pair between tubes.

(6) M8x30 at each end of the runner flange, and one in the middle

(2) M8x40 go into the backside of the runner flange, you have to do these from the opposite side of the motor.


Fuel rail:

(4) M8x35 bolts from the top
(2) M8x20 on the little flange in front of the intake.
Posted on: 2010/10/5 12:53
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JeffK Re: Head gasket leaking
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Thanks CC

I should have been more specific in my post but I already had the right stuff on the china wall when I posted so I was in a rush.

The bolts that I was talking about were the intake manifold base plate bolts that go into the heads. I put one long one and one short one in each location. I hope that's right because I have everything on except the runners and plenum.
Posted on: 2010/10/5 13:58
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JAKEJR Re: Head gasket leaking
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Just last night I came across a thread from Permatex saying NOT to use The Right Stuff where it can come into contact with gasoline.

This was from the horse's mouth so I guess he knows what he's talking about. Anyone read about that before?

I'll post the link if anyone's interested.

Jake
Posted on: 2010/10/11 21:51
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