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#1
Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/8 7:58
Well... kinda... sputters for 2 or three seconds and quits.
Back story: read FIRE FIRE FIRE!
Short version: Dropping 1996 LT1 in my 1992.
keeping engine controller and such 1992.
When I go to fire it up, cranks, catches, dies.
I am using LTCC - replaced high voltage with 8 LS3 coils.
The 96 uses that pin drive to run the opti. My memory tells me that can be installed out of phase, right? Wrong? The early Opti has a spline drive with a gap.
I had installed MSD wires, but have since gone back to my Taylors, that I know are good.
The ground was suspect, it is now on the front of the ending
No codes.
I am going to check all the wires near the battery tomoorrow night... maybe a circiut isn't be powered...
fuel pressure is 40psi.
Back story: read FIRE FIRE FIRE!
Short version: Dropping 1996 LT1 in my 1992.
keeping engine controller and such 1992.
When I go to fire it up, cranks, catches, dies.
I am using LTCC - replaced high voltage with 8 LS3 coils.
The 96 uses that pin drive to run the opti. My memory tells me that can be installed out of phase, right? Wrong? The early Opti has a spline drive with a gap.
I had installed MSD wires, but have since gone back to my Taylors, that I know are good.
The ground was suspect, it is now on the front of the ending
No codes.
I am going to check all the wires near the battery tomoorrow night... maybe a circiut isn't be powered...
fuel pressure is 40psi.
#2
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
vetteoz
Posted on: 2013/1/8 11:44
Quote:
Maybe
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1576193433-post9.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1576193490-post10.html
No start diagnostics
http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/forum ... -lt1-no-start-diagnostic/
My memory tells me that can be installed out of phase, right?
Maybe
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1576193433-post9.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1576193490-post10.html
No start diagnostics
http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/forum ... -lt1-no-start-diagnostic/
#3
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
1Fast04Vert
Posted on: 2013/1/8 14:09
Yes, the Gen II opti can be installed out of time. I know since I made that mistake myself once.
#4
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/8 16:09
that's what I thought... Ok... after I check the other stuff.
A few other things I have checked:
the LTCC harnesses, they are even/odd, so the odds are on the left (driver), evens on the right.
coil harnesses were marked even/odd last time and are in their original locations, and each plug was numbered and is in its right location.
My concern is that either I miss-indexed the opti or I have a disconnected wire at the power junction box behind the battery. I can check that real easy tonight. I am not sure how easy it will be to pull the opti to check phase. Even without a cap, it might be snug.
A few other things I have checked:
the LTCC harnesses, they are even/odd, so the odds are on the left (driver), evens on the right.
coil harnesses were marked even/odd last time and are in their original locations, and each plug was numbered and is in its right location.
My concern is that either I miss-indexed the opti or I have a disconnected wire at the power junction box behind the battery. I can check that real easy tonight. I am not sure how easy it will be to pull the opti to check phase. Even without a cap, it might be snug.
#5
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/8 23:24
looking back... I did the opti on the stand. And I am pretty sure it sat evenly. I am betting that I missed a wire or 2 down by the battery.
Something in the ignition circuit isn't getting power... coils? some sensors? Injectors even, cause I am not smelling raw fuel and I would expect to smell fuel.
Something in the ignition circuit isn't getting power... coils? some sensors? Injectors even, cause I am not smelling raw fuel and I would expect to smell fuel.
#6
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
BrianCunningham
Posted on: 2013/1/8 23:30
Do you have any injector noids to check if they're getting fired.
the balancer isn't marked, but you can still check it with a timing light.
the balancer isn't marked, but you can still check it with a timing light.
#7
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/9 0:24
I don't have noids... but I can make sure that the wiring is right. Seems just as good, really.
I will dbl check the fuses. I am also concerned a fusible link got fried. That would suck.
Timing light? good tool, but I am doing most of this solo. I can run DVM checks with the key on to make sure power is getting to the coils.
I will dbl check the fuses. I am also concerned a fusible link got fried. That would suck.
Timing light? good tool, but I am doing most of this solo. I can run DVM checks with the key on to make sure power is getting to the coils.
#8
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
1Fast04Vert
Posted on: 2013/1/9 0:47
Noid lights are on the Autozone free loaner tool list. There are two separate fuses (one for each bank) for the injectors.
#9
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
CentralCoaster
Posted on: 2013/1/9 0:58
You can use a timing light solo if the cord is long enough I've done that and just pointed it at the ground while cranking on each cylinder separately.
#10
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/9 2:55
I will have to check that out if I can't figure it out normally!
I have diags to test in the manual and confirm some things... I am going outside in a few to test some stuff.
I have diags to test in the manual and confirm some things... I am going outside in a few to test some stuff.
#11
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/9 5:49
it's cold and dark... but first pass around the battery revealed nothing amiss.
Reading the FSM also confirms that if there had been major power delivery issues, then there would be other things dead... like no gauges...
and the gauges are working. The CCM and ECM are communicating.
I want to remove the battery and be sure, but it looks ok.
next test will be to remove the LTCC and get codes from it. hopefully, tomorrow night.
Reading the FSM also confirms that if there had been major power delivery issues, then there would be other things dead... like no gauges...
and the gauges are working. The CCM and ECM are communicating. I want to remove the battery and be sure, but it looks ok.
next test will be to remove the LTCC and get codes from it. hopefully, tomorrow night.
#12
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/14 16:23
the more and more I futz with it, the more I am sure the opti is out of time.
#13
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
BillH
Posted on: 2013/1/14 16:48
Quote:
Just off the top of my head and looking at the 2 positions on the opti drive......if the pin is in the wrong slot, would the motor actually start and run 3 seconds? And I would think it would backfire. Just sayin'
bogus wrote:
the more and more I futz with it, the more I am sure the opti is out of time.
Just off the top of my head and looking at the 2 positions on the opti drive......if the pin is in the wrong slot, would the motor actually start and run 3 seconds? And I would think it would backfire. Just sayin'
#14
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
BrianCunningham
Posted on: 2013/1/14 17:01
When I put my opti on wrong a timing light showed my right away.
#15
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/14 17:42
that requires finding #1 TDC... and then marking the crank... that's a pain... I might just as well pull the opti!!!
I might just as well pull the opti!!!
#16
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
CentralCoaster
Posted on: 2013/1/14 22:56
Man I love my HEI distributor.
#18
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
Aboatguy
Posted on: 2013/1/18 16:43
I like driving my vette more than wrenching on it for wrenchings sake; so if my damper was unmarked I'd find top dead center.
I can think of numerous quick/easy and effective ways to find TDC. pulling valve cover and watching number 1 cylinder rockers and then using blunt object in the no 1 spark plug hole is one method and ensures your on the firing stroke too) finger over spark plug hole until you feel compression and then use the object in the spark plug hole is a quick and dirty method to find TDC on compression stroke, or simply use my piston stop (since compression stroke really doesnt matter IRT to marking the damper) then I'd mark the damper and use my timing light.
Any of these methods would show if you had the opti indexed incorrectly, in much less time than pulling the opti and having an opportunity to mis-index the opti.
Good luck Andy. You are close to having it running.
Mike
(USING DAMPER, VICE HARMONIC BALANCER)
I can think of numerous quick/easy and effective ways to find TDC. pulling valve cover and watching number 1 cylinder rockers and then using blunt object in the no 1 spark plug hole is one method and ensures your on the firing stroke too) finger over spark plug hole until you feel compression and then use the object in the spark plug hole is a quick and dirty method to find TDC on compression stroke, or simply use my piston stop (since compression stroke really doesnt matter IRT to marking the damper) then I'd mark the damper and use my timing light.
Any of these methods would show if you had the opti indexed incorrectly, in much less time than pulling the opti and having an opportunity to mis-index the opti.
Good luck Andy. You are close to having it running.
Mike
(USING DAMPER, VICE HARMONIC BALANCER)
#19
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
corvetteronw
Posted on: 2013/1/20 4:28
This is way out there but here goes.
I had a machine shop turn my trashed 81 Vette's low power 350 into a nice driving powerful 355 engine. I did the aftermarket heads/intake/distributor stuff with it too.
When I got it fired up for the first time and got it timed correctly I heard something like a "putt-putt--putt" exhaust sound. Tried everything (this was pre-Forum days) and finally took it to the ASE shop down the road which was run by a bunch of Mopar hot-rodder types.
They diagnosed it as a worn cam lobe and told me I had probably adjusted a rocker arm or two incorrectly.
Bought a replacement cam and installed it. I pulled the plugs in order to be able to spin the motor over by the crank snout easier and found ----- a friggen spark plug with a totally closed gap. I then remembered that while I was putting the engine back together on the stand that I had dropped a plug onto the garage floor by accident. That's what did it. I regapped all the plugs, buttoned everything up and she ran smooth and strong after that.
Any chance that you could have flattened out a couple of the plug electrodes during the install?
Good luck - ever think of trading the damn thing in after you get her running? I know it can be tempting. McJack's would be glad to fix you up!
http://www.mcjackscorvettes.com/05BLK61k.htm
I had a machine shop turn my trashed 81 Vette's low power 350 into a nice driving powerful 355 engine. I did the aftermarket heads/intake/distributor stuff with it too.
When I got it fired up for the first time and got it timed correctly I heard something like a "putt-putt--putt" exhaust sound. Tried everything (this was pre-Forum days) and finally took it to the ASE shop down the road which was run by a bunch of Mopar hot-rodder types.
They diagnosed it as a worn cam lobe and told me I had probably adjusted a rocker arm or two incorrectly.
Bought a replacement cam and installed it. I pulled the plugs in order to be able to spin the motor over by the crank snout easier and found ----- a friggen spark plug with a totally closed gap. I then remembered that while I was putting the engine back together on the stand that I had dropped a plug onto the garage floor by accident. That's what did it. I regapped all the plugs, buttoned everything up and she ran smooth and strong after that.
Any chance that you could have flattened out a couple of the plug electrodes during the install?
Good luck - ever think of trading the damn thing in after you get her running? I know it can be tempting. McJack's would be glad to fix you up!
http://www.mcjackscorvettes.com/05BLK61k.htm
#20
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/20 5:10
I know Jack... and no, I ain't trading... This will be sweet once done! The new motor only has 61k on it!
I didn't flatten any electrodes - inspected each plug before it went back in. They are new, but they are few years old. But never run.
I am rather surprised that your motor wouldn't fire with one dead plug... it should have... odd...
Tomorrow, one bolt to go on the water pump and I am at the damned optispark... it is acting like it's off... and since the opti controls timing and fuel, all sorts of things are out of sync, I am sure.
I didn't flatten any electrodes - inspected each plug before it went back in. They are new, but they are few years old. But never run.
I am rather surprised that your motor wouldn't fire with one dead plug... it should have... odd...
Tomorrow, one bolt to go on the water pump and I am at the damned optispark... it is acting like it's off... and since the opti controls timing and fuel, all sorts of things are out of sync, I am sure.
#21
Re: Troubleshooting... it won't start!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/20 21:04
Ok... quick update...
I finally took a minute and checked the original engine. It IS original to the car. The VIN is stamped on the opposite corner of the engine that the engine number is stamped. Meaning, left rear of the head.
The VIN matches my car. So... 185k miles is real.
Also, got the opti off. As I removed the three bolts, the first one was showing tension. If the pin was right, I would expect there to be no tension at all... flush fit, no gaps, no tension, nada.
I can't prove the pin was right or wrong, can't see down there, but this will be done right when I am finished! I should know in about 15 minutes.
I finally took a minute and checked the original engine. It IS original to the car. The VIN is stamped on the opposite corner of the engine that the engine number is stamped. Meaning, left rear of the head.
The VIN matches my car. So... 185k miles is real.
Also, got the opti off. As I removed the three bolts, the first one was showing tension. If the pin was right, I would expect there to be no tension at all... flush fit, no gaps, no tension, nada.
I can't prove the pin was right or wrong, can't see down there, but this will be done right when I am finished! I should know in about 15 minutes.
#22
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/20 21:48
It was the damned opti!!!!
I finally got it to sit flush and it fired RIGHT UP!!! Sure... a little smokey... a lot noisy and a bit ignorant... but RUNNING!!!
There is no exhaust and no waterpump/belt on right now, so all sorts of things were showing warnings... low voltage, no water temp... things like that. But... it's running!
I should be done before sunset. Off to get a couple of parts and then back to reassemble.
#23
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
j3studio
Posted on: 2013/1/20 22:24
Quote:
bogus wrote: It was the damned opti!!!! I finally got it to sit flush and it fired RIGHT UP!!!
#24
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
donhall
Posted on: 2013/1/20 22:35
We can only sense your gratification, but we can appreciate your
due diligence.
#25
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
BrianCunningham
Posted on: 2013/1/20 23:17
told ya
seriously, glad you got it running again
seriously, glad you got it running again
#29
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
LD85
Posted on: 2013/1/21 0:45
Awesome, your hard work is going to shame me into stripping the front of my engine tomorrow in single digit weather thank you
#30
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
EngineDoctor
Posted on: 2013/1/21 1:14
Well done Andy !!
#31
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
corvetteronw
Posted on: 2013/1/21 1:18
Congratulations! The neighbors will not believe their eyes when they see you motoring off to Winchell's Donuts!
#32
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/21 3:44
Randy's, Ron... Randy's Donuts...
I had a scare... it wouldn't refire... found out it REQUIRES the temp sensor to be plugged in or it won't fire. fixed that and all was grand.
A tip... when installing a gen 2 opti, use a paint pen to mark the side of the drive spindle on the opti and the drive pin on the cam. This makes alignment seriously easy!!!
I had a scare... it wouldn't refire... found out it REQUIRES the temp sensor to be plugged in or it won't fire. fixed that and all was grand.
A tip... when installing a gen 2 opti, use a paint pen to mark the side of the drive spindle on the opti and the drive pin on the cam. This makes alignment seriously easy!!!
#33
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
donhall
Posted on: 2013/1/21 4:33
Quote:
............ STICKY .........
bogus wrote:
I had a scare... it wouldn't refire... found out it REQUIRES the temp sensor to be plugged in or it won't fire. fixed that and all was grand.
A tip... when installing a gen 2 opti, use a paint pen to mark the side of the drive spindle on the opti and the drive pin on the cam. This makes alignment seriously easy!!!
............ STICKY .........
#34
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
joeld
Posted on: 2013/1/21 4:48
Good news! Congrats
I never doubted for a moment.
Joel
I never doubted for a moment.
Joel
#35
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/21 4:59
Quote:
donhall wrote: Quote:............ STICKY .........bogus wrote: I had a scare... it wouldn't refire... found out it REQUIRES the temp sensor to be plugged in or it won't fire. fixed that and all was grand. A tip... when installing a gen 2 opti, use a paint pen to mark the side of the drive spindle on the opti and the drive pin on the cam. This makes alignment seriously easy!!!
I know...
#36
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
Ultraman
Posted on: 2013/1/21 13:57
Atta boy Andy....let the fun begin.....
#37
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/21 17:03
Tonight, button it all up... hang the exhaust, tidy up the various bits of plumbing, get the PS pulley back on, and then the drive belt...
screw on all the inner fenders and then finally, bolt in the battery (after giving it a quick recharge) and replace the oil pressure sensor.
Finally, outer gill panels and that's that. Maybe even a quick wash if I have the courage. Oh, gotta do the new wipers and the registration sticker!
screw on all the inner fenders and then finally, bolt in the battery (after giving it a quick recharge) and replace the oil pressure sensor.
Finally, outer gill panels and that's that. Maybe even a quick wash if I have the courage. Oh, gotta do the new wipers and the registration sticker!
#38
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
teebee
Posted on: 2013/1/21 17:52
I had my issues with opti's too. They can be very frustrating....especially if you think that it can't be the problem.
Glad you got it, Andy.
Glad you got it, Andy.
#39
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/21 18:05
Well... as I progressed through the easy check downs, it had to be the opti. And the way it was behaving...
#40
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/22 6:12
Got the exhaust hung and most of the stuff under the hood wrapped up.
Still need to get it running long enough to get up to op temp and allow the t-stat to kick in!! It got late and I accidently pissed off my neighbour.
I have a feeling that the 1996 LT1 knock sensors don't like being attached to a manual transmission... the thunking of the flywheel really upsets the apple cart! I am getting a code 43, Electronic spark control and 44, left O2 lean. I don't hear any exhaust leaks, I wonder if the O2 is loose?
otherwise, it is very smooth and sounds pretty awesome with the right cat gutted!!!
Still need to get it running long enough to get up to op temp and allow the t-stat to kick in!! It got late and I accidently pissed off my neighbour.
I have a feeling that the 1996 LT1 knock sensors don't like being attached to a manual transmission... the thunking of the flywheel really upsets the apple cart! I am getting a code 43, Electronic spark control and 44, left O2 lean. I don't hear any exhaust leaks, I wonder if the O2 is loose?
otherwise, it is very smooth and sounds pretty awesome with the right cat gutted!!!
#41
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
1Fast04Vert
Posted on: 2013/1/22 12:25
Pretty sure the 96 knock sensors are not compatible with earlier year ECM/PCMs. I am positive the LT4 sensors are one year only, not sure about LT1 sensors.
#42
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/22 16:39
it would make sense... the light came on real quick!!
I am still shocked as to how much noise there is with the right cat gutted. It sounds like a 383 with a massive cam. All cackling and stuff.
I am still shocked as to how much noise there is with the right cat gutted. It sounds like a 383 with a massive cam. All cackling and stuff.
#43
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
1Fast04Vert
Posted on: 2013/1/22 16:47
Just a question - with the right cat gutted and the left side intact wouldn't that cause problems? Wouldn't the 02 sensors read an imbalance?
#44
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/22 17:56
on the 92, the o2s are only upstream... now... the left read lean... not the right, which is gutted. I would be willing to accept that, because of the different velocity that the air is moving at. But only if it read lean on the right!
I might have a small vacuum leak somewhere, the idle took its own sweet time to settle in.
I might have a small vacuum leak somewhere, the idle took its own sweet time to settle in.
#45
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
rklessdriver
Posted on: 2013/1/22 19:04
Andy-
Just something to think about but - Are you using the ICM off the 92 engine or the ICM off the 96 engine?
I know the ICM's have diffent PN's, so using the 96 ICM with the 92 computer may cause the 43 code.
On another note - The 95-97 style pin drive optisparks can be installed crooked and doing so can break the dowel pin in the camshaft... Found this out with an engine I built and the owner installed the accy stuff on... wouldn't keep a stable ignition signal past 5500rpm.... turns out the dowel pin in the cam was broken just aft of the cam gear.... opti was just being phased in time by the cam bolts.
Glad to see you have it running.
Will
Just something to think about but - Are you using the ICM off the 92 engine or the ICM off the 96 engine?
I know the ICM's have diffent PN's, so using the 96 ICM with the 92 computer may cause the 43 code.
On another note - The 95-97 style pin drive optisparks can be installed crooked and doing so can break the dowel pin in the camshaft... Found this out with an engine I built and the owner installed the accy stuff on... wouldn't keep a stable ignition signal past 5500rpm.... turns out the dowel pin in the cam was broken just aft of the cam gear.... opti was just being phased in time by the cam bolts.
Glad to see you have it running.
Will
#46
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/22 19:07
I am not using an ICM at all - LTCC bypasses that thing.
As for the pin, I think its ok... it didn't appear or feel damaged when I was in there fixing on it.
I am betting money it's the knock sensors causing me issue right now and I will address them after I get the car running right.
As for the pin, I think its ok... it didn't appear or feel damaged when I was in there fixing on it.
I am betting money it's the knock sensors causing me issue right now and I will address them after I get the car running right.
#47
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/23 6:02
The knock sensors are swapped and the car is about 99% back together. Enough to drive to work tomorrow.
I am a little edged about the coolant situation, but I have a nice short drive down to the main road where I can top off. Perhaps it will burp before I even leave for work.
I did start it tonite and the immediate code was gone. It also ran very smoothly.
Also replaced the plug wires with new MSD wires that I made.
I am a little edged about the coolant situation, but I have a nice short drive down to the main road where I can top off. Perhaps it will burp before I even leave for work.
I did start it tonite and the immediate code was gone. It also ran very smoothly.
Also replaced the plug wires with new MSD wires that I made.
#48
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
Matatk
Posted on: 2013/1/23 12:40
Quote:
I have no experience with them, but read that the LT4 is less sensitive because GM put in roller rockers, etc, and it seems to be a common upgrade when changing to noisier components:
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f37/lt1-lt4-knock-sensor-129128/
1Fast04Vert wrote:
Pretty sure the 96 knock sensors are not compatible with earlier year ECM/PCMs. I am positive the LT4 sensors are one year only, not sure about LT1 sensors.
I have no experience with them, but read that the LT4 is less sensitive because GM put in roller rockers, etc, and it seems to be a common upgrade when changing to noisier components:
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f37/lt1-lt4-knock-sensor-129128/
#49
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
Aboatguy
Posted on: 2013/1/23 15:26
Quote:
I believe the LT4 has a different knock sensor module that is less sensitive. Concur with the 96 knock sensor incompatablity with OBDI PCMs
Mike
Matatk wrote:
Quote:
1Fast04Vert wrote:
Pretty sure the 96 knock sensors are not compatible with earlier year ECM/PCMs. I am positive the LT4 sensors are one year only, not sure about LT1 sensors.
I have no experience with them, but read that the LT4 is less sensitive because GM put in roller rockers, etc, and it seems to be a common upgrade when changing to noisier components:
http://www.ls1.com/forums/f37/lt1-lt4-knock-sensor-129128/
I believe the LT4 has a different knock sensor module that is less sensitive. Concur with the 96 knock sensor incompatablity with OBDI PCMs
Mike
#50
Re: Troubleshooting...IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!
bogus
Posted on: 2013/1/23 16:13
Matt - you are right.
Today... first drive... last night when I did the knock sensor swap, the block was all but dry of coolant... I never got to "burp" the system... What I think happened was when I shut down, the coolant continued to heat for a bit, opened the stat, it all expanded out in the radiator and filled it!
I filled the overflow, and engine temp never got about 200 on my drive in.
the gutted cat sucks on the road! It really kills low end torque!!!
The first drive was uneventful. Started out with a bit of a miss, but it cleared as I drove... more then likely some gick on a plug and it burned off.
Have a high idle condition, there must be a vacuum leak somewhere.
Otherwise, it stunk to high-heavens, but as I drove, it got less and less ignorant. I will top off with more coolant at lunch and again when I leave tonight.
I call this a success, so far!
Today... first drive... last night when I did the knock sensor swap, the block was all but dry of coolant... I never got to "burp" the system... What I think happened was when I shut down, the coolant continued to heat for a bit, opened the stat, it all expanded out in the radiator and filled it!
I filled the overflow, and engine temp never got about 200 on my drive in.
the gutted cat sucks on the road! It really kills low end torque!!!
The first drive was uneventful. Started out with a bit of a miss, but it cleared as I drove... more then likely some gick on a plug and it burned off.
Have a high idle condition, there must be a vacuum leak somewhere.
Otherwise, it stunk to high-heavens, but as I drove, it got less and less ignorant. I will top off with more coolant at lunch and again when I leave tonight.
I call this a success, so far!
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