glad to read!

with just ONE cat gutted, I'm sure the calibration is off.
That may explain a few things.

BTW I have an LT4 knock sensor module in my OBDI '95
Of course '95's are a bit of an oddball it's really an OBDII running OBDI

Me too, Brian!

So... the idle is still high. I think I need to relearn the IAC.

Does anyone have their manual handy? I don't remember the procedure...

IAC relearn = Turn ignition on but do not start for 10 seconds, then start it. That should do it.

Since the cat is gutted but the emissions is still active you can expect stink at start up. Not sure what after it goes into closed loop.

the stink is simply the smell of all the crap burning off... cleaners, oils... that gick.

Thanks for the relearn instructions!

another way to burp the cooling system is to raise the back of the car with a jack.. and fill it while warming it up. then just fill the over flow bottle all the way up and it will burp the rest of the way in a couple of driving cycles . its the only way i can get my zr1 done right .

also a great way to find a vacuum leak is to get a small propane bottle and attach a 5/16 rubber hose to it and run it around where you think you might have a leak . where there is a leak the rpms will rise a bunch . glad to see you have got her back on the road .

Maybe I'm jus gettin old....BUT this is how I fill the cooling system after it is breached.
I remove the thermostat housing & top it off, fill radiator, then resevoir.

oh... gee... the 1991-96 Vette does NOT have a radiator cap. It has a surge tank where you fill it.

These do have burp screws, I just haven't had it hot enough to fill the rad, until tonight for sure. All it did was peak at 230 and stay there in traffic... as soon as I started moving, and the fans kicked in, it dropped quickly.

As for driving, I suspect the imbalanced cats are the biggest problem. I won't go fishing until the new ones are welded in (Saturday morning).

@Brad - thanks for the pointer on the vacuum leak... a can of carb cleaner is almost as effective. I think the leak is around the PCV system... I need to clamp down the hose.

Over all, the car is running REAL nice. The new engine feels very strong and runs very smoothly.

I am also very impressed with the Amsoil trans oil. Very VERY nice shift feel. Excellent!!!

Andy, you dont have a thermostat housing ?

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It's a reverse cooled LT1, so the thermostat housing is on top of the water pump and once you remove it... you dump coolant all over the Opti Spark.

LTX's take a bit of time to bleed the cooling system completely because the coolant entry path/point (water pump) is so much lower than the cyl heads, which cool first.

Andy-
This is the proceedure I follow on LTX's:

Engine COLD.

1. Remove the cap from the surge tank and pack a few paper towles/rags under the thermostat housing.

2. Start the car.

3. Open the thermostat housing bleeder screw and let it vent as the engine warms up. Pay attention to the coolant stream as the thermostat opens... run engine with the bleeder open and add coolant to the surge tank as nessecary to keep it full.

Once you're pretty sure it's all bled out (steady stream of HOT coolant from the bleeder) close the bleeder, make sure the surge tank is full and put the cap on. Fill the over flow tank to the hot fill line and let it cycle the fan a few times before you go out on the road.

Should be good to go at that point but some are real SOB's, so you may need to repeat the proceedure again once it's cooled off.

Will

Extra bleeder on the TB for 92-93.

After bleeding, I run off idle to 1,200 or so, this drops the level in the surge tank a bit and that's when I fill and cap it.

Also if changing/replacing coolant, open the bleeder(s) while you fill the system.

Oh, don't get me wrong... I know the process to burp an LTx...

The problem? Monday night, I was about ready for this to happen, when I woke up my neighbour... and I never got it finished!!!

So this week has been a bit of touch and go. But last night, when hot, I filled to overflow, hoping the cooling process would suck in some more coolant.

So far, no signs of hotspots, the head and waterpump temps are on target.

It ran a ton better today. Better idle, better running, no miss... just better!!!!

Thanks for your reply Will! I didnt know the thermostat was down there by the waterpump, now I understand ;)

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This might help -

not just the location, but the thermostat is different as well

Attach file:

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  tstat.jpg (0.00 KB)

yea... in another 10 years, we will be paying out the ass for one of these damned t-stats!!!

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Thanks, Andy.............. ordered a spare tonite.

Buy a 6-pack

Well... day three and the car is running better and better each day!!

the plugs and injectors are both clean again... just need to get some gas now.

thats great , you deserve it . you have worked so hard and even kept a good attitude.no way i could have . i have a broken big toe that just points cuz i kicked a 71trans am when i was younger .dont need a dog when i go hunting .jk

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Welcome to my world ...

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Ha, try buyin' C2 parts..................

yea? why? You can whittle pieces for a C2 out of wood...

Screw that. I updated to the later singled sided belt some 10 years ago.

When I found out that my local Chevy parts counter manager didn't know that the 92 Vette had a double side serp belt, and that NAPA and Advance Auto didn't stock one, I had to do something quick... because I was heading to FL soon... One call to Jeff Kopp and I had all the parts I needed to convert... I needed tensioner and idler anyway, the only other part I needed was the PS pulley...

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That's why I have an extra 2 sided setup.

Why do that?? Just convert.

Ok... minor update.

The Vette has been running great for last 2+ weeks. No problems to speak of.

Had a small issue with an injector o-ring... started leaking fuel... replaced that.

Today, I did a bunch of little things:

** reinstalled the left gill
** Installed the right gill

I got new hardware to screw them on with. Much nicer...

** replaced the oil pressure sensor... it now reads 60 psi at start, instead of staying at 130 or something.

Also, reattached the connector that goes on the master cylinder that activates ABS... it had fallen off at some point.

As a side note, took the suburban through the car wash and programmed the remotes.

Also tidied up the garage.