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Print in friendly format Send this term to a friend  L98 Intake Bolt Sizes
This is data compiled by CentralCoaster. It lists all the bolt sizes for a stock L98 intake manifold and some of the attachments.

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PeteK Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Although it was a winter project, I decided to take advantage of the warmer weather and get a jump start on cleaning up all the parts and pieces to assemble the 406 I've had on the stand for about 5 years now.

This build will use a 2 bolt main block, a cast scat crank, reconditioned GM rods (with ARP bolts), and a set of sealed power Hyper pistons.
Cylinder heads will be a set of AFR 195 Eliminators, and a comp cams bumpstick (retro fit hydraulic roller).

Pic below shows the block ready to receive the crankshaft.
Block has alread been fully machined, cleaned and has the freeze plugs, cam bearings and oil galley plugs installed by me.
I regret not snapping pics of the cam bearing installation. Most are afraid to install them in the home garage, but they are not a big deal, with the proper driver.

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5601.jpg[/IMG]

Next, crank is in and torqued. Thrust measures .0065


[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5610.jpg[/IMG]

Notice the 2 round slugs of mallory installed in the front counterweight. This makes the front of the crank neutral, so I can run an internal balanced, harmonic balancer. Rear of the crank is balanced to be the same as a typical GM 400 with an external flexplate.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5615.jpg[/IMG]

I threaded the cam galley bores, and installed 1/4 inch NPT pipe plugs. I did mod the driver's side plug with a small hole, so it will pee oil on the timing chain and gearset. I will be running a Cloyes Hex-adjust timing set with a torrington bearing, so it is probably overkill. It hurts nothing though.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5613.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/10/31 14:36
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Durango_Boy Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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This will be a good one. I like seeing how others have built their 400 blocks.
Posted on: 2009/10/31 14:38
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Cam is a custom grind, by Comp cams.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5617.jpg[/IMG]

It is a smaller base circle bumpstick, but is cut from a billet core for strength.
I went with a cast iron rear gear (pressed on and pinned) so I could run a stock, iron distributor gear.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5618.jpg[/IMG]

I only order custom cams for my builds. Never takes comp more than 1 week to make, and ship to my door, and I have complete control over all lobes, and specs.
Posted on: 2009/10/31 15:16
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Durango_Boy Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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So far I'm seeing a lot of similarities. I used a stock cut 400 crank though and didn't weight the crank.
Posted on: 2009/10/31 15:47
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

Durango_Boy wrote:
So far I'm seeing a lot of similarities. I used a stock cut 400 crank though and didn't weight the crank.

I went with the Scat because the 400 cranks (in my area) are getting tough to find.

Scat was dirt cheap, and I have been pleased with their quality (for the most part) on other builds. Machinest had a few in stock, so I think I paid $130. Mallory was another $100, but allowed me to use the harmonic balancer I already own, so a good investment.
Posted on: 2009/10/31 15:54
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anesthes Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:
Quote:

Durango_Boy wrote:
So far I'm seeing a lot of similarities. I used a stock cut 400 crank though and didn't weight the crank.

I went with the Scat because the 400 cranks (in my area) are getting tough to find.

Scat was dirt cheap, and I have been pleased with their quality (for the most part) on other builds. Machinest had a few in stock, so I think I paid $130. Mallory was another $100, but allowed me to use the harmonic balancer I already own, so a good investment.


I went with an Ohio crank, forged. Only really because I have a heavy car and if I put a manual in it I don't want to be thinking about the crank breaking.

I'll have to look up those lobes.

Looks good Pete!

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/10/31 16:30
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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I will snap a pic of the cam card to save everyone the trouble of looking them up.

I wish I did buy some quality parts on this build, but they were accumulated a while ago, so I am going to use them.

I currently have enough parts in the garage to assemble 2 or 3 383 shortblocks. My long term plan is to build them properly, sell them at bargain pricing, and use the funds to put together a quality 421 shortblock down the road.

On this shortblock, revs won't exceed 6000, and I likely won't use the Nitrous, so I expecting to beat on it for a season or 2 without a failure. I have always been very lucky with similar builds.
Posted on: 2009/10/31 16:36
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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On sunday (tomorrow), I hope to degree the cam. Most cam grinders add 4 degrees in the grind, but I am pretty sure I didn't opt for that. With the super ram manifold, I really don't need the cam advanced for low end power.
*Cam card will remind me if I am correct.

If I can find the time to file fit the rings, and degree the crank this weekend, shortblock should be ready for final assembly (after I return from New Mexico) next weekend.
Posted on: 2009/10/31 16:41
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twisted Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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nice jump start Pete
Posted on: 2009/10/31 17:17
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:
On sunday (tomorrow), I hope to degree the cam, and advance it a couple of degrees. Most cam grinders add 4 degrees in the grind, but I am pretty sure I didn't opt for that. Cam card will remind me if I am correct.

If I can find the time to file fit the rings, and degree the crank this weekend, shortblock should be ready for final assembly (after I return from New Mexico) next weekend.


Well, The above did not happen.
Today, spent a few hours cleaning parts, and inspecting them. Canton oil pan was disassembled, spitshined, and re-assembled (baffles and windage screen). Pan was mocked up, and pickup to pan clearance was 3/8 inch. Perfect.
I cleaned up the 2 pc Comp Cams Billet aluminum 2 pc timing cover. Part number is 210, and it is a nice piece.
I installed the crank gear, but did not hammer it on. I heated it up for a few minutes, and it slipped right on. Once it cooled, it was a press fit.
Timing chain set (including torrington bearing) was spitshined too.

I may snap more pics and post them tomorrow.
Posted on: 2009/11/1 22:33
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BrianCunningham Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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best of luck with it

roller? flat tappet?
Posted on: 2009/11/2 14:58
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Pretty aggressive hydraulic roller. Not huge, but aggressive ramps.
Posted on: 2009/11/2 15:49
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Matatk Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Great thread, Pete. Look forward to following it as usual.

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/11/2 20:32
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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I spent my lunch hour working on the block today. I decided to degree the cam.
For those that don't know what "degreeing" is, it simply is the relationship of the centerline of the #1 intake lobe as it relates to Top Dead Center of the #1 piston (while it is on the compression stroke).

In a perfect world, there would be no need to degree a cam. Everything would be machined balls on. In the real world though, the following can goof up the cam phasing:

1)Incorrectly drilled bolt pattern on the cam nose
2)Incorrect location of the keyway that locates the lower timing gear on the crank.
3)Incorrectly machined cam or crank gear.
4) Cam ground incorrectly, or even mis-boxed.

The timing set I am using is a Cloyes Hex-a-just. It is a nice piece, that has a torrington bearing behind the crank gear, and is easily adjustable with an allen wrench, to achieve the desired position of the cam.

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5621.jpg[/IMG]

Step one of degreeing a cam is installing the timing wheel on the nose of the crank. Mine bolts to the harmonic balancer, so I installed the balancer first (using a balancer installer, not a BFH)! Then, I bolted the timing wheel on.Notice the piece of wire fabbed up to be a pointer.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5627.jpg[/IMG]

Next, I use a piston stop to locate true top dead center.

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5624.jpg[/IMG]

Then I zero out the pointer.

Next, I find max lift of the intake lobe, and pass it by .050, recording the number indicated on the wheel.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5626.jpg[/IMG]
I then roll the motor in the opposite direction, and do the same thing. Find max lift, then go .050 past it, and document the number.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5627.jpg[/IMG]
Now I add the 2 documented numbers, and divide in half. I am at 111 3/4. That equates to 1/4 degree advanced, or close enough.

I always degree according to the manufacturers recommendations, as they are much smarter than me.

Before I disassemble everything, I check all of the info on the timing card to be sure the cam is correct.

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5629.jpg[/IMG]

Next, I place the balancer at true TDC as indicated by the timing wheel. Next I install an MSD timing tape. You would be suprised how many motors do not have an accurate timing mark on the balancer.
Note: The balacer below is actually a fluidamper (street version) painted semi gloss black to appear stock.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5630.jpg[/IMG]

That's it. 1 hour to accomplish all that. Why anyone would choose not to degree a cam mystifies me. It is quick, easy, and eliminates any second guessing. Especially if the fresh motor fires, and there is some kind of problem. The degree process assures all is well for the cam timing and cam manufacturing.
Posted on: 2009/11/2 22:46
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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I almost forgot. The Comp Cam will be working Speed Pro Hydraulic roller lifters (retrofit style).
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5628.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/11/2 22:54
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anesthes Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:
I almost forgot. The Comp Cam will be working Speed Pro Hydraulic roller lifters (retrofit style).
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5628.jpg[/IMG]


How much were those?

I was looking at the comp 853's, which are $325. Kind of expensive for a link-bar, considering comp OE style lifters are $200....

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/11/4 22:38
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88BlackZ51 Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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thanks for the pics. very cool pete.
Posted on: 2009/11/5 15:15
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sliding Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Nice job Pete!
Posted on: 2009/11/5 16:10
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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$325. They were the cheapest, good quality retro lifter I could find. They will handle a lobe lift up to .380.

Quote:

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:
I almost forgot. The Comp Cam will be working Speed Pro Hydraulic roller lifters (retrofit style).
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5628.jpg[/IMG]


How much were those?

I was looking at the comp 853's, which are $325. Kind of expensive for a link-bar, considering comp OE style lifters are $200....

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/11/5 20:18
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Unfortunately, no further progress. It is cold as a witches tit here, and no heat in the garage. I hope to get the rings file fit this weekend, and assemble shortly after. I will snap more pics as I go.
I just picked up another 383 block from the machinest, so I can start to prepare for the next one.
Posted on: 2009/11/6 20:37
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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I had a spare hour, so I file fit the rings this evening. They are right where I want them.
With any luck, I will install the pistons and rings, and button up the short block tomorrow.
No pics this evening, as ring filing is pretty boring, but I will snap some tomorrow as the shortblock goes together.
Posted on: 2009/11/8 0:00
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BillH Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:
as ring filing is pretty boring, .


Yea, especially with a jeweler's file.

Do you use a stone on the edges then to remove any burrs?
Posted on: 2009/11/8 21:35
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Bill,

I use an inexpensive ring grinder that has a disc similar to a cut off wheel. 2 twists of the handle usually knocks off about .001 of end gap.

After every step, I use a jewlers file to just clean off the burr.

Shortblock is complete , pics to follow.
Posted on: 2009/11/9 0:55
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BillH Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:
Bill,
I use an inexpensive ring grinder that has a disc similar to a cut off wheel. 2 twists of the handle usuall knowcks off about .001.

After every step, I use a jewlers file to just knock off the burr.



Yea, I've been borrowing a grinder. I'll probably get one from ProForm one of these days.

I was just thinking back to the "old days".
Kind of hard to keep the ends square with the "file in the vise" method.
Posted on: 2009/11/9 14:02
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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It was a productive sunday afternoon. After all the measuring, checking and mock up, it was time to begin final assembly of the shortblock.

First step was to fit the rings to each individual piston. After that, bearing was installed on the rod, bolt protectors were installed, and bearing was lubed:

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5684.jpg[/IMG]

Rings were aligned lightly oiled (along with a smear of oil on the skirts). Then the piston rod combo was fitted to the tapered ring compressor:
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5685.jpg[/IMG]

The assembly was then set on the block, and the piston/rod/ring assembly was gently, and smoothly pushed into the cylinder:
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5686.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5687.jpg[/IMG]

Bearing was installed into the rod cap end, lubed, and snugged down.This was repeated 7 times.
Posted on: 2009/11/9 23:45
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Next, all rod bolts are lubed with ARP bolt lube, and torqued to 50 ft lbs, to give the correct bolt stretch.

Torqued them all 2x, then torqued them again.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5698.jpg[/IMG]

A brand new ARP oil pump stud was installed, lubed and torqued and loosened 5x to roll in the threads. Final torque was 55 ft lbs.
Posted on: 2009/11/9 23:57
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Next up is the Comp Cam, 2 pc Billet timing cover. It is a quality piece, and gives a solid base for the cam button to ride.
First, I mock everything up to determine the correct cam end play. The photo below shows the shims that go behind the rollerized button that is installed in the center of the cam timing gear:

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5700.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5701.jpg[/IMG]

Cam thrust is set to about .009, chain is oilded, as well as the new front seal.

Gasket is installed with a thin smear of Ultra Gray on both sides.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5703.jpg[/IMG]

Followed by the outer cover. No gasket here, so a thin smear of Ultra Gray is all it gets.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5704.jpg[/IMG]

On and torqued it goes. Do Not forget to install the small pipe plug used to fill the hole used to check the endplay (with a dial indicator).
Posted on: 2009/11/10 0:03
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Harmonic balancer is installed using the correct installer, and the timing tab is in place.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5706.jpg[/IMG]

Next up is the oil pan.
Gasket is installed dry, as per Fel-Pro's recommendations, but with a plop of Ultra Gray in each corner.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5710.jpg[/IMG]

Pan is place properly, and a new set of stainless steel bolts are torqued to spec.
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5724.jpg[/IMG]
Complete shortblock:
[IMG]http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t221/vrodpete/100_5727.jpg[/IMG]
Posted on: 2009/11/10 0:10
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BillH Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Looks great, Pete.

Love it: "Gently and smoothly pushed into the cylinder"
I haven't tapped a piston unto a cyl since I was a teenager.

Drives me nuts seeing people beating them in
Posted on: 2009/11/10 0:26
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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I am suprised no one has asked about the crappy looking film on the top of the pistons.
These pistons have about 150 miles on them, as they came out of a motor that gave me fits a few years ago. Crank was bad, and the thrust was knocked out of it.
I did not super clean the tops, as it will gunk up slightly the moment the motor fires.

Also, the paint overspray on the deck surface will be removed prior to placing the head gasket.

One final note. After each piston/rod assembly was installed, I slowly rotated the engine 2 complete revolutions to be sure nothing collided.
Once together (but before the pan went on), I checked each and every possible collision point.
Rod bolt to cam
piston to counterweight
Rod to block
Counterweight to oil pump.
Crank/rod to oil pan, etc.

Everything had a minimum of .065 clearance.

Deck height on my pistons range from .010 to .017, so my .039 gasket should give me a pretty "decent" quench.

When I get some spare time, I will cc a piston, and calculate compression ratio. I "should" be about 10.5:1 or so. But the calculator won't lie.
Posted on: 2009/11/10 0:41
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Matatk Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Looks great, Pete. Couple questions:
1 - Did you install the pistons onto the rods yourself?
2 - how do you check cam thrust/endplay?
3 - what are the red "xx"s on the caps for?
4 - is it normal to have very minor quench/piston height differences?

Thanks,

Matthew
Posted on: 2009/11/10 1:26
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Looks great, Pete. Couple questions:
1 - Did you install the pistons onto the rods yourself?
2 - how do you check cam thrust/endplay?
3 - what are the red "xx"s on the caps for?
4 - is it normal to have very minor quench/piston height differences?

Thanks,

Matthew


Matt,

1) I did, but they are press fit, so I did it at my friends machine shop. Rod end is heated, pin is cooled, and they slip together easily. Once cooled, proper press fit.

2) The timing cover I am using has a small hole in it.
I used a magnetic base and dial indicator to measure, and put a screwdriver on a cam lobe through a lifter bore. Gently push cam back, zero the indicator, and gently pry forward for end play reading. There is a feel for it though, as the cover will flex and give a false reading if you pry too hard.

3)The red x's are just my scribble with a sharpie. When I torque the bolt, I draw 1/2 of the x. After torquing all 16 bolts, I re-torque and put the final leg of the x.

4) On a typical motor you will get varying deck heights. Although the crank journal, cylinder deck, rod length or piston height are factors, it usually boils down to 2 things.
#1 Rods-They are always different
#2 Deck machining. If you notice a steady change from front to rear, the deck may be out of square.
Because mine were typical, and random, it is likely slight differences in connecting rod length.
Posted on: 2009/11/10 1:35
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iCorvette Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Posted on: 2009/11/10 2:42
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88BlackZ51 Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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I might of messed this, but what intake are you using Pete?
Posted on: 2009/11/10 4:16
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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I will likely start out with the super ram. Once I get a tune up on it, I will try the miniram, and then the single plane mainfold. Both are on the shelf.
If it runs near 11.50 with the SR, I may just leave it there.
Posted on: 2009/11/10 12:22
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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A few things remain, but I will put them on the back burner till the snow flies.

I need to:
cc everything to determine the actual compression ratio
determine piston to valve clearance
Determine correct pushrod length
align and torque pushrod guide plates
Change the springs to suit my preferred spring pressures for this combo.

I will bring this back to the top when I get rolling on the heads.
Posted on: 2009/11/10 17:23
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Since the short block is complete, I may as well try to put a number on it. I will break it down into 2 groups. I did not have to use a top of the line timing cover or oil pan, so I will tag them as options.

Block, machined and ready to build - $725
Crank - (New) Balanced to my bobweight $250
Rods - my labor, my cores, and bolts $55
Pistons - $115
Fluid Damper (Street Damper) Used $75
Flexplate (new) $60
Cam rod main bearings - $65
Moly Rings - $35
Special Rear Main Seal for align honed 400 blocks $20
Freeze plugs/Galley plugs - $6
Paint, cleaners locktite etc - $50
Cloyes Hex-a-just timing chain - $90
Cam $300
Lifters $325
Oil pump , oil pump stud, and hardened shaft - $100

Total: $2,271.00

Canton Road Race pan and pick up $240
Comp Cams #210 Timing Cover - $215
Chrome timing tab and MSD timing Tape - $7

Option Total: $462.00

Combined Total: $2733.00


Not a bad value, if you ask me.
Posted on: 2009/11/10 18:57
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Matatk Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Nice real world build and pricing, Pete. I'm not one of these guys that can drop 10k on a motor
Posted on: 2009/11/10 22:57
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anesthes Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:


Combined Total: $2733.00


Not a bad value, if you ask me.


No kidding.. I think I have that in my short block

I think from oil pan to air cleaner around $5,500.. Your doing good!!

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/11/11 11:39
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

anesthes wrote:
Quote:


Combined Total: $2733.00


Not a bad value, if you ask me.


No kidding.. I think I have that in my short block

I think from oil pan to air cleaner around $5,500.. Your doing good!!

-- Joe


The rest of the likely budget:

I currently own:

Heads - $1170
Head gaskets - $40
Intake base gasket $9
Superram Gaskets (I cut my own) $10
Header Gaskets - $15
Oil, antifreeze, filter, etc $40
Plugs - $17

I may need to buy:

Pushrods - $90
Valve springs - $100

Looks like my maximum budget is:
$4224.00

Not exactly cheap, but as cheap as I can do it.
If it runs in the 11's and is reliable, I guess it will be a good bang for the buck.
Posted on: 2009/11/12 12:47
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sliding Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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What was all done to the block?
I ask because I'd like to know how are your (US) prices
for machining.

Here, I'll pay 250-300 dollars for boring/honing cylinders and
deck surfacing.
Posted on: 2009/11/12 13:51
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anesthes Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:

I currently own:

Heads - $1170
Head gaskets - $40
Intake base gasket $9
Superram Gaskets (I cut my own) $10
Header Gaskets - $15
Oil, antifreeze, filter, etc $40
Plugs - $17

I may need to buy:

Pushrods - $90
Valve springs - $100

Looks like my maximum budget is:
$4224.00

Not exactly cheap, but as cheap as I can do it.
If it runs in the 11's and is reliable, I guess it will be a good bang for the buck.


I need to buy some heads. I want to keep the quench around .030" so my custom head gaskets are $180. (piston .010" in hole). Pushrods though, why $90? I've always used comp cams hardened and are like $35 if I remember?

I'm not sure what the car will do. I need to weigh it, and see where I can remove some weight. I'd like it to go faster than my Formula did (120mph), but I'm not sure if that is going to happen.

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/11/12 14:03
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:

I currently own:

Heads - $1170
Head gaskets - $40
Intake base gasket $9
Superram Gaskets (I cut my own) $10
Header Gaskets - $15
Oil, antifreeze, filter, etc $40
Plugs - $17

I may need to buy:

Pushrods - $90
Valve springs - $100

Looks like my maximum budget is:
$4224.00

Not exactly cheap, but as cheap as I can do it.
If it runs in the 11's and is reliable, I guess it will be a good bang for the buck.


I need to buy some heads. I want to keep the quench around .030" so my custom head gaskets are $180. (piston .010" in hole). Pushrods though, why $90? I've always used comp cams hardened and are like $35 if I remember?

I'm not sure what the car will do. I need to weigh it, and see where I can remove some weight. I'd like it to go faster than my Formula did (120mph), but I'm not sure if that is going to happen.

-- Joe


I am scared to run quench that tight. I always shoot for a minimum of .040. I ran a 350 years ago with about .030, (piston was about .010 above the deck), and it was an .025 gasket. I remember it looked loke the pistons may have kissed a chamber or 2.

I was never able to find a custom length pushrod for less than $90. I am never lucky enough to be at the 7.190 length. I always seem to need 7.250 or 7.150.
Posted on: 2009/11/12 14:10
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anesthes Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:


I am scared to run quench that tight. I always shoot for a minimum of .040. I ran a 350 years ago with about .030, (piston was about .010 above the deck), and it was an .025 gasket. I remember it looked loke the pistons may have kissed a chamber or 2.

I was never able to find a custom length pushrod for less than $90. I am never lucky enough to be at the 7.190 length. I always seem to need 7.250 or 7.150.


I actually meant to say .040", the gasket would be .030" MLS type + .010" in the hole.

Hrmm. 7.195 has worked for me (comp 7808) in the past with trickflow heads, and sportsman-II heads. Your running AFR, right?


My 412 is a non-oe roller of course, so the body height may screw me up on the pushrods too. Then again, the cam is cut on a 1.050" base circle, so I guess we will find out.

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/11/12 14:30
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

anesthes wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:


I am scared to run quench that tight. I always shoot for a minimum of .040. I ran a 350 years ago with about .030, (piston was about .010 above the deck), and it was an .025 gasket. I remember it looked loke the pistons may have kissed a chamber or 2.

I was never able to find a custom length pushrod for less than $90. I am never lucky enough to be at the 7.190 length. I always seem to need 7.250 or 7.150.


I actually meant to say .040", the gasket would be .030" MLS type + .010" in the hole.

Hrmm. 7.195 has worked for me (comp 7808) in the past with trickflow heads, and sportsman-II heads. Your running AFR, right?


My 412 is a non-oe roller of course, so the body height may screw me up on the pushrods too. Then again, the cam is cut on a 1.050" base circle, so I guess we will find out.

-- Joe


Joe,
I am near certain I am on a 1.050 base circle (retrofit roller) as well. AFR heads, and a .039 gasket. Deck height is 9.010.
I will let you know what I need. I hope to do a quick mock up on the weekend.
Posted on: 2009/11/12 14:37
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

sliding wrote:
What was all done to the block?
I ask because I'd like to know how are your (US) prices
for machining.

Here, I'll pay 250-300 dollars for boring/honing cylinders and
deck surfacing.


That is about what it runs here.

My guy charges:

$160 to bore and deck (Decking will normally be to 9.010, unless a different deck height is specified by the customer).

$90 to hone w/torque plate

$125 to line hone main saddles.

Cleaning, magnafluxing and shotpeening normally run about $150.

Notching the block for a stroker usually runs about $75, and my guy will often clean up and radius the oil returns in the block while he is there.

$25 to install cam bearings (but I always do that myself).
Posted on: 2009/11/13 12:59
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anesthes Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:

My guy charges:

$160 to bore and deck (Decking will normally be to 9.010, unless a different deck height is specified by the customer).

$90 to hone w/torque plate

$125 to line hone main saddles.

Cleaning, magnafluxing and shotpeening normally run about $150.

Notching the block for a stroker usually runs about $75, and my guy will often clean up and radius the oil returns in the block while he is there.

$25 to install cam bearings (but I always do that myself).


Shop I've been using for 15 years:

1) Boring $225
2) Decking $100
3) Clean, hot tank, etc $80
4) Pressure testing, magnaflux $80
5) Balancing $150-200
6) Hone w/ torque plate $90

Looks like I'm paying more for boring than you. I wonder why..? hrmm.

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/11/13 14:06
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PeteK Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Joe cost of living in your area would be my first guess. I would think my machinest would have a better profit at the slightly lower prices. In this area, a household making 40 grand is doing well.
Posted on: 2009/11/13 20:17
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tpi421vett Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Looks good Pete
Posted on: 2009/11/17 7:46
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91 vette,450ci, AFR 220, miniram,FAST, Crane 252/260 solid roller, 200 shot nos, ZF6, 4 link, 9", DA corrected to 1300 ft 9.65@145.xx
450ci now with AFR 235...
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anesthes Re: Budget 406 Build Up Inside
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Quote:

PeteK wrote:
Joe cost of living in your area would be my first guess. I would think my machinest would have a better profit at the slightly lower prices. In this area, a household making 40 grand is doing well.


Ahh.. Makes sense. And I know you realize what it's like around here from living here briefly. My closest neighbor just sold for $475,000..

-- Joe
Posted on: 2009/11/17 11:12
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