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1969 through 1976 Corvette.

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Matatk MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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You all may recall a post a while back that I made on the side of the road almost a year ago....well here I am again.

Took the car to the store to do some errands. Was running well. Coming home temps were around 210 oil/coolant. I was watching the gauges and the oil temp started jumping erratically....190/202/196/213/199 etc. I thought that was weird. Oil pressure at idle seemed a little low...about 14-16 psi, but under load was normal 40-60 range. Kept driving about 2 more miles just normally, not aggressively. I was on a side street a mile from home and it just died. F#&k! Won't restart.

The only other thing I noticed is my main fan isn't coming on with ignition, but works with aldl jumpered. That is probably the cooling problem I was experiencing. That seems unrelated to this as my temps were ok.

Also, no codes.

So I am waiting for a tow truck as I type. Ugh.

I'll update once I can do some diagnostics.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/16 23:00
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BillH Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Sucks Matt, good luck.
Posted on: 2011/6/16 23:16
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TommyT-Bone Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Sonofabitch.
Posted on: 2011/6/16 23:19
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biggrizzly Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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I feel for ya! Seriously! I hope its something simple like an ignition control module.
Posted on: 2011/6/16 23:28
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bogus Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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the oil temp freaking out... that sender has nothing to do with engine ops.

I would have to trace the schematic back, but it makes me wonder if there is a cause effect - does the fuel pump fire?

If the oil temp is somehow associated to the oil pressure switch, then the fuel pump relay may be getting bit by some bad karma.
Posted on: 2011/6/17 0:29
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pianoguy Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Arghhhh - good luck, Matt!
Posted on: 2011/6/17 1:26
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Fredbird Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Sorry to hear it Matt... Hope it's something simple.
Posted on: 2011/6/17 1:45
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Ultraman Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Nuts, Matt I hate it when stuff isn't reliable. Uhhh it's the disty.......
Posted on: 2011/6/17 3:00
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Got it home and started working on it in the garage.

First thing I checked was FP - spot on 3 bar.

Second thing was I started going through the "engine cranks but will no start" diagnostic chart in the FSM.
-no codes, tps is .54

Check for spark and it seems intermittent but strong and blue when it cracked. I have the spark tester set to 25000 volts, what the fsm says is necessary.

Started going through the troubleshooting steps for no spark (since an intermittent is treated as no spark).
-close to 12v at tach output, close to 12v at batt
output. no rpms when cranking. disconnecting 4 wire est
connector and giving power gives no rpm signal.

Got to the point of testing the ignition control module to see if there was a voltage drop when applying test light to "P" terminal..there was none - aha...changed the ignition control module and then retested, drop in voltage as there was supposed to be. I buttoned everything back up...still no start. Damn it.

I also replaced the ECM during testing since I saw that may be a cause and it only took 3 mins to do.

Tomorrow is another day and I will have to go back and start retesting. I need to test the pickup coil when the engine is cranking and see what that looks like. After that I'll be pulling the dizzy base to check the drive gear. I'm hoping it's not that again.

Updates will come.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/17 3:05
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Here is chart C4 that is the second step in checking, once already determined it is an HEI problem:

Photobucket


And here is a hint for the lisle spark tester. The spring clamp part is crap. Every time I tried to clip it onto something, the little tangs holding the clamp together would separate and the spring would fly out. Did it a half a dozen times. I tried bending the tangs more but that didn't work. The solution is the wrap the clamp about 4 times with some electrical tape - that keeps everything in place.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/17 3:09
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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A sad sight....

Attach file:



jpg  2011-06-16 tow small.JPG (0.00 KB)

Posted on: 2011/6/17 12:02
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TommyT-Bone Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Do you have AAA or similar, or did you have to pay the man. I'm a big fan of roadside assistance programs. I use them at least once annually. They really pay for themselves. Especially if you don't carry a spare tire
Posted on: 2011/6/17 12:06
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

TommyT-Bone wrote:
Do you have AAA or similar, or did you have to pay the man. I'm a big fan of roadside assistance programs. I use them at least once annually. They really pay for themselves. Especially if you don't carry a spare tire


I have roadside assistance through my insurance. What kills me is I was exactly 1 mile from home. Oh well you can't control these things.
Posted on: 2011/6/17 12:18
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biggrizzly Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Allstate Motor Club has helped me many times! Mine is unlimited towing! All C4 owners should have roadside assistance.
Posted on: 2011/6/17 12:59
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JeffK Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
Allstate Motor Club has helped me many times! Mine is unlimited towing! All C4 owners should have roadside assistance.


Ain't that the truth. Mine broke 60 miles from home. $200 tow bill.

Matthew, sorry you're having problems again. I'm sure you will get it straight though. If it makes you feel any better it looks really sharp sitting up there.
Posted on: 2011/6/17 14:49
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bogus Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Consider road side? Strikes me as a no brainer!

I have it via my ins company, State Farm.

Oh, Matthew - did they use the proper tie downs?

As for it being an HEI issue, could it be the distributor drive gear again?
Posted on: 2011/6/17 14:53
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TommyT-Bone Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Looks like they used the "We're only going a mile" tiedowns.
Posted on: 2011/6/17 15:36
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Woodstock Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:
no rpms when cranking


Since you switched the module already, sounds like p/u coil or same old "drive gear".

Good luck,
Axel
Posted on: 2011/6/17 16:35
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pianoguy Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
A sad sight....


Woulda been a lot sadder if it had been raining with the top off ;-)

Good luck, hope you get it sorted out soon!
Posted on: 2011/6/17 17:09
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hdfire Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Well seeing this I won't bug you about mine!
Got everything back together and it fired right up but still stalls out after 4-5 minutes. Also noted #1 cylinder injector is leaking. Should I be able to move it easily in the manifold/fuel rail? I can slide it up and down enough to cause it to loose the seal, doesn't seem right....?
Good luck with your's Matt. Let me know if I can be of any help.
Wish I wasn't on-duty yesterday....I could have trialered it back home for you!
Posted on: 2011/6/17 19:44
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

Woodstock wrote:
Quote:
no rpms when cranking


Since you switched the module already, sounds like p/u coil or same old "drive gear".

Good luck,
Axel


I agree which scares me a bit.

I'm hoping it's the coil and not the drive gear. The coil was NOS...old but good. If it's the drive gear, I'm gonna have to do some testing on the cam because that might indicate cam walk. Which means a new timing cover and a cam button from what I can tell.
Posted on: 2011/6/17 23:31
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

bogus wrote:

Oh, Matthew - did they use the proper tie downs?


I complimented the tow truck driver. He used boards to get it on the flatbed, knew where the hook attachment points were, and used nylon tie downs on the rear wheels. He was very knowledgeable. He said he tows a lot of sports cars and harleys.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/17 23:32
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

hdfire wrote:
Well seeing this I won't bug you about mine!
Got everything back together and it fired right up but still stalls out after 4-5 minutes. Also noted #1 cylinder injector is leaking. Should I be able to move it easily in the manifold/fuel rail? I can slide it up and down enough to cause it to loose the seal, doesn't seem right....?
Good luck with your's Matt. Let me know if I can be of any help.
Wish I wasn't on-duty yesterday....I could have trialered it back home for you!


I sent you a pm.
Posted on: 2011/6/17 23:32
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Ultraman Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

bogus wrote:

Oh, Matthew - did they use the proper tie downs?


I complimented the tow truck driver. He used boards to get it on the flatbed, knew where the hook attachment points were, and used nylon tie downs on the rear wheels. He was very knowledgeable. He said he tows a lot of sports cars and harleys.

Matthew



I think he probably said Honda's not Harley's. Only a mile from home I am suprised you didn't push it in like we do out here. Great leg work out.....
Posted on: 2011/6/18 0:24
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Tinkered a little tonight. Decided to do some alternate testing than the fsm step by step which is time consuming. I checked again for power at tach and batt terminals, both good. I checked with a test light at the tach terminal when cranking and couldn't get consistent light...it would blink a little stop...that might reference the ignition coil. Tested that and it shows infinite ohms between rotor button and both battery and tach...which means it's bad. [EDIT - see below, this is not correct testing procedure] Tested the pickup coil and it tests good. Turned the motor by hand and the distributor was spinning...also good.

So as far as troubleshooting goes right now, the ignition coil will be replaced. And this time with an ac delco, no parts store crap. I've learned that the aftermarket sensors and electrical parts are mostly crap...I'm done with those.

I'll keep you all updated.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/18 1:57
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Woodstock Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:
Tested that and it shows infinite ohms between rotor button and both battery and tach...which means it's bad.


Sorry, mine does the same, that's probably not it. Between bat and tach leads you'll get zero resistance.
Rotor button contact to ground is about 8K-ohm.

Might want to try your old p/u coil? This little sucker can not always be determined good by measurements. Heat can do weird stuff to coils.

Attach file:



jpg  coil.jpg (45.46 KB)
1024_4dfc8aef25bea.jpg 500X442 px
Posted on: 2011/6/18 11:24
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Axel - when you are testing secondary resistance of rotor button to tach, and then rotor button to batt, you get infinite resistance on both tests? FSM says to replace with these readings.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/18 11:42
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Woodstock Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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That's what I am saying, infinite on both measurements!

edit:
That was a lot of nonsense, that's why it got deleted.
W/O fingertips in the way, still infinite at 2000K-ohm at the button or ground.
Maybe my cheapo meter isn't high scaled enough?
Posted on: 2011/6/18 12:09
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Thanks to Axel for pointing out my incorrect testing. I was reading the FSM and the pictures were blurry (no written step by step). I thought I needed to test secondary resistance from rotor button to tach and rotor button to batt. This is incorrect (if you think about it logically, since there is no resistance between tach/batt the reading will be the same either way)

I actually checked the chilton's manual and the tests are better described.

1) Primary resistance test - ohm meter leads connected between batt and tach - this should be close to zero

2) Secondary resistance test - rotor button to batt - my readings for this are infinite, which is consistent with several coils, including Axel's diagnosis of his. Other coils seem to have a specific ohm range, I can't find one for our corvettes.

3) Secondary resistant test - rotor button to ground - should be around 8k, although the FSM doesn't specify this number.

If tests #2 and #3 both show infinite, then the coil is bad.
Posted on: 2011/6/19 2:37
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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I didn't have a chance to work on the car tonight. I did, however, pick up a bump/remote starter switch to help with my troubleshooting. I also picked up a new ICM terminal block/capacitor harness. That's about the only thing I didn't replace last year when I rebuilt it. Might not be necessary, but I had a random thought (with no troubleshooting basis) that it might be affecting the output.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/19 2:41
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Got a chance to tinker tonight. The remote starter switch is a nifty tool to have!

So here's the deal. I've got good news and I've got bad news.

Good news:


I found the problem.

Bad news:


I don't like the problem.

Same issue as before, the distributor drive gear. This one lasted 1000-1500 miles.

Distributor is not bottoming out, I have play in the shaft when installed. I have not checked the distributor to check the tolerances.

I have read that cam walk will cause this. As far as I can tell, I still have the chinsy factory timing cover on my motor. My next step is to pull everything off the front of the motor, pull the timing cover, and check the endplay. If I get some, I'll be installing a cam button and cast aluminum or billet timing cover.

Unfortunately, that's a lot of work and a lot of time that I just don't have right now. Plus I need to pick up a dial indicator and magnetic base (NBD, Harbor Freight!).

It might be a while but I'll keep the post updated when I can. Looks like no summer toy for a while.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/21 1:43
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Posted on: 2011/6/21 1:46
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biggrizzly Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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That's a bummer, but at least its within sight and you have a plan. I bought a nice dial indicator and base kit from HF. Comes in a nice wooden case. Not too expensive either.

Just curious... Isn't this something that our high priced engine builders are supposed to be looking out for? I know that you have probably as much money as I do in your engine build and these guys should be aware of these issues up front. Just thinking out loud for you.
Posted on: 2011/6/21 1:47
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JeffK Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Geez and I was feeling disgusted with mine. I hate it for you Matthew.
Posted on: 2011/6/21 11:26
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flyboy Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Doesn't your engine have the cam thrust plate like picture #14 in the link instead of the thrust button? It's a roller cam block, isn't it? Here's mine. Don't you have an after market intake base? Could there be a mis-alignment there?
Off topic: I finally got around to cutting that oiling groove in the dist. like you recommended. Good luck.

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jpg  thrust plate-cam retainer.JPG (109.18 KB)
1735_4e0091569a598.jpg 640X480 px
Posted on: 2011/6/21 12:44
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screamin_conure Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Hey Matthew, sorry to hear about your woes. Nothing worse than seeing your pride and joy sitting there undriveable. You're an awesome troubleshooter though. I wouldn't have had a clue.

Good luck, and hope you get her back online soon.

Ron
Posted on: 2011/6/21 16:41
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hdfire Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Let me know when your going to start wrenching...I.O.U.!
Posted on: 2011/6/21 23:47
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bogus Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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oh, man... I hate it when I might be right.

Good luck! Wish I was closer.
Posted on: 2011/6/22 2:06
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PeteK Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Matt,
If you have a roller block, the cam cannot walk. The plate limits forward movement, and the cam gear on the timing gear limits rearward movement.
Stick a screwdriver down the slot, and move the cam forward, and back. If it moves more than an asshair, timing cover at least needs to come off.
Shine a flashlight down the hole, and do a visual on the cam gear.
If you see wear, motor needs to come out.
You likley have 1 of 2 problems.
1) A billet cam that requires a bronze or composite gear.
2) A bent distributor shaft or bent cam.

1 or 2 of every 10 cams I run across is not as straight as I want it to be, and I wind up pounding it straight.

Low oil pressure is a terrible indicator.
Posted on: 2011/6/22 14:56
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Pete - as always I appreciate your insight.

The cam I am running is the following:

Comp Cams 08-432-8 (xr282HR-10)

When I emailed comp last year about the problem, this was the response I received:

Quote:

If there was any damage to the cam, you would be able to see it while it is
still in the engine. That looks like the normal wear with a high volume oil
pump and stock gear. The correct material is iron or steel, but it has to be
melonized. That is the process that makes the gear compatible with our cams.
Now the wear issue will still be there with a high volume oil pump, which is
inevitable, but it may not be as bad with the correct gear. I also spoke to
one of our engine builders and he said that the original gear was worn with
the original cam, and then it was put on a new cam, so that was most of the
culprit. As long as the cam gear isn't damaged, I would recommend the GM
part # 10456413 distributor gear and some gear marking compound just to make
sure the gears mesh correctly.


However, when I check the site, it directs me to the composite drive gear as appropriate for the cam/part #12200:

http://www.compperformancegroupstores ... n=PROD&Product_Code=12200

So that confuses me a bit. As far as I know, it's not billet.

I thought you could get cam walk on a roller block, but apparently that's only on retrofits? Thanks for pointing that out.

The cam gear looks ok while in the block, but I can't be certain. I am going to check the endplay with a screwdriver to see if it moves.

I don't like the low oil pressure, either. I am considering changing the oil pump out. The current pump is a Melling M55HV. I have heard internet stories about high volume/high pressure pumps accelerating wear on drive gears. I can't verify if that's true or not.

My choices for oil pump are pretty much:

M55 - standard volume, standard pressure
M55HV - high volume, high pressure
M55A - standard volume, high pressure

I am considering just the stock style M55. Thoughts?

I don't like the idea of having to pull the pan but I want to check for damage, at this point.

I will check the distributor for shaft damage/runout. I don't know how to do that, yet, but I will find out. I now have a dial indicator and magnetic base to assist with that.

Any other thoughts/comments?

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/22 21:00
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

flyboy wrote:
Doesn't your engine have the cam thrust plate like picture #14 in the link instead of the thrust button? It's a roller cam block, isn't it? Here's mine. Don't you have an after market intake base? Could there be a mis-alignment there?
Off topic: I finally got around to cutting that oiling groove in the dist. like you recommended. Good luck.


Joe, I should AFAIK, but I've never looked behind the timing cover. I don't know about the misalignment on the intake, but that's a good point I'll look into.

Matthew
Posted on: 2011/6/22 21:01
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PeteK Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Nanticoke, Pa
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Pete - as always I appreciate your insight.

The cam I am running is the following:

Comp Cams 08-432-8 (xr282HR-10)

When I emailed comp last year about the problem, this was the response I received:

Quote:

If there was any damage to the cam, you would be able to see it while it is
still in the engine. That looks like the normal wear with a high volume oil
pump and stock gear. The correct material is iron or steel, but it has to be
melonized. That is the process that makes the gear compatible with our cams.
Now the wear issue will still be there with a high volume oil pump, which is
inevitable, but it may not be as bad with the correct gear. I also spoke to
one of our engine builders and he said that the original gear was worn with
the original cam, and then it was put on a new cam, so that was most of the
culprit. As long as the cam gear isn't damaged, I would recommend the GM
part # 10456413 distributor gear and some gear marking compound just to make
sure the gears mesh correctly.


However, when I check the site, it directs me to the composite drive gear as appropriate for the cam/part #12200:

http://www.compperformancegroupstores ... n=PROD&Product_Code=12200

So that confuses me a bit. As far as I know, it's not billet.

I thought you could get cam walk on a roller block, but apparently that's only on retrofits? Thanks for pointing that out.

The cam gear looks ok while in the block, but I can't be certain. I am going to check the endplay with a screwdriver to see if it moves.

I don't like the low oil pressure, either. I am considering changing the oil pump out. The current pump is a Melling M55HV. I have heard internet stories about high volume/high pressure pumps accelerating wear on drive gears. I can't verify if that's true or not.

My choices for oil pump are pretty much:

M55 - standard volume, standard pressure
M55HV - high volume, high pressure
M55A - standard volume, high pressure

I am considering just the stock style M55. Thoughts?

I don't like the idea of having to pull the pan but I want to check for damage, at this point.

I will check the distributor for shaft damage/runout. I don't know how to do that, yet, but I will find out. I now have a dial indicator and magnetic base to assist with that.

Any other thoughts/comments?

Matthew


I would recommend not spending money, because you may have a large problem. The metal that was shed from 2 dist gears have been consumed by your engine. The low pressure could be a pump, or bearings. You wont know till you get it running again.
My advice now would be to buy the composite gear, and get it running to determine if the oil pressure reflects a hurt engine.
In regards to the high volume pump, they do reduce the life of a dist gear, but you should still get 100k out of one, not 1500 miles.
To check the dist shaft, remove it from the dist. Set in in a couple of V blocks, and put a dial indicator on it. spin it and record the out of round.
I have no idea what acceptable run out is, but I look for .002 or less.
Posted on: 2011/6/22 22:23
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PeteK Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Quote:

flyboy wrote:
Doesn't your engine have the cam thrust plate like picture #14 in the link instead of the thrust button? It's a roller cam block, isn't it? Here's mine. Don't you have an after market intake base? Could there be a mis-alignment there?
Off topic: I finally got around to cutting that oiling groove in the dist. like you recommended. Good luck.


Joe, I should AFAIK, but I've never looked behind the timing cover. I don't know about the misalignment on the intake, but that's a good point I'll look into.

Matthew

Matt,
Checking the intake is a good idea, but I would not invest alot of time on it.
The intake does not center the distributor. That is done by the bottom of the distributor, in the block. The hole in the intake is larger that the part of the dist that goes through it.
It would have to be off a ton to side load it enough to chew the gear.
Check everything, but I would put intake at the bottom of the possibilities.
Posted on: 2011/6/22 22:27
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RickAnthony Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Looks like you have alot of good info to go on Matt... If you want to borrow it, I bought a dial indicator from harbor frieght, I think I also bought the magnetic base for it as well don't remember still new in the box.. obviously not the most highest quality tool but at least this should give you some idea if things are in line or not...

Also I agree on trying to look at the cam gear and play through the dist. hole first.. maybe it can shed some light on what is going on..
-=Rick
Posted on: 2011/6/23 3:46
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Matatk Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Thanks, Rick, that's the same one I bought yesterday. Can't hurt to have one laying around.

When I get a chance this weekend, my plans are to:

1) check the cam gear more carefully for wear

2) check cam for endplay with screwdriver through distributor hole

3) disassemble distributor base and check shaft

4) drain oil and look for fragments/oil change
Posted on: 2011/6/23 11:31
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RickAnthony Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Thanks, Rick, that's the same one I bought yesterday. Can't hurt to have one laying around.

When I get a chance this weekend, my plans are to:

1) check the cam gear more carefully for wear

2) check cam for endplay with screwdriver through distributor hole

3) disassemble distributor base and check shaft

4) drain oil and look for fragments/oil change


Sounds like a good game plan! If your working on it Saturday morning let me know I can stop by before 12...

-=Rick
Posted on: 2011/6/23 12:26
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BillH Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Reno
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Thanks, Rick, that's the same one I bought yesterday. Can't hurt to have one laying around.


I have 2 of the HF's and 2 of their magnetic bases. They're fine for the $$$.
I wouldn't use them for engine building but for checking something like your cam, they'll work well.

@ $21 for the dial and the mag base, everyone should have one in their box.

BTW, I checked one of mine against one of my Starrett's and it matched the Starrett's readings.
Posted on: 2011/6/23 12:51
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pianoguy Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Arghhhhh, that blows, Matt - good luck, man!
Posted on: 2011/6/23 14:38
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RickAnthony Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Quote:

BillH wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Thanks, Rick, that's the same one I bought yesterday. Can't hurt to have one laying around.


I have 2 of the HF's and 2 of their magnetic bases. They're fine for the $$$.
I wouldn't use them for engine building but for checking something like your cam, they'll work well.

@ $21 for the dial and the mag base, everyone should have one in their box.

BTW, I checked one of mine against one of my Starrett's and it matched the Starrett's readings.


Yea, I bought it for checking non critical stuff, like rotor run out ect.. just so I could have some idea on things.. but I wouldn't trust it 100% like for an engine build ect..
Posted on: 2011/6/23 17:37
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flyboy Re: MF'r broke down....round two!!!
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Westmont, Il.
2632 Posts
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2008/9/28 12:47



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Quote:

RickAnthony wrote:
Quote:

BillH wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Thanks, Rick, that's the same one I bought yesterday. Can't hurt to have one laying around.


I have 2 of the HF's and 2 of their magnetic bases. They're fine for the $$$.
I wouldn't use them for engine building but for checking something like your cam, they'll work well.

@ $21 for the dial and the mag base, everyone should have one in their box.

BTW, I checked one of mine against one of my Starrett's and it matched the Starrett's readings.


Yea, I bought it for checking non critical stuff, like rotor run out ect.. just so I could have some idea on things.. but I wouldn't trust it 100% like for an engine build ect..


I finally broke down and bought one too, for checking the brake rotors. Gee, they're just like vettes, everybody has one.
Posted on: 2011/6/23 17:58
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