PeteK wrote:

1 or 2 of every 10 cams I run across is not as straight as I want it to be, and I wind up pounding it straight.

Low oil pressure is a terrible indicator.

RickAnthony wrote:
Yea, I bought it for checking non critical stuff, like rotor run out ect.. just so I could have some idea on things.. but I wouldn't trust it 100% like for an engine build ect..

flyboy wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:

1 or 2 of every 10 cams I run across is not as straight as I want it to be, and I wind up pounding it straight.

Low oil pressure is a terrible indicator.

Wow! Glad I bought a GM cam, though maybe that doesn't matter. I would think the workman would notice a bent cam during installation.

flyboy wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:

1 or 2 of every 10 cams I run across is not as straight as I want it to be, and I wind up pounding it straight.

Low oil pressure is a terrible indicator.

Wow! Glad I bought a GM cam, though maybe that doesn't matter. I would think the workman would notice a bent cam during installation.

flyboy wrote:
Quote:

flyboy wrote:
Quote:

PeteK wrote:

1 or 2 of every 10 cams I run across is not as straight as I want it to be, and I wind up pounding it straight.

Low oil pressure is a terrible indicator.

Wow! Glad I bought a GM cam, though maybe that doesn't matter. I would think the workman would notice a bent cam during installation.

So a cam that is bent enough to chew up the distributor gear could possibly be installed without enough difficulty to indicate something is out of whack, interesting.

Matatk wrote:
Probed with a long screwdriver in the dizzy hole yesterday night and didn't get any movement front or back on the cam. I guess that's a good sign. I'll be doing some oil flushing later and installing the new drive gear, putting the dizzy back together, and buttoning everything back up later this week.

Matthew

Matatk wrote:
Probed with a long screwdriver in the dizzy hole yesterday night and didn't get any movement front or back on the cam. I guess that's a good sign. I'll be doing some oil flushing later and installing the new drive gear, putting the dizzy back together, and buttoning everything back up later this week.

Matthew

Ultraman wrote:
Screw TPiS! Bastards.......

hdfire wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Probed with a long screwdriver in the dizzy hole yesterday night and didn't get any movement front or back on the cam. I guess that's a good sign. I'll be doing some oil flushing later and installing the new drive gear, putting the dizzy back together, and buttoning everything back up later this week.

Matthew

Give me a call if I can be of any help. I'm off duty till Friday. Remember...IOU!!!

RickAnthony wrote:

kind of a good sign, but still doesn't tell us why this is happening... still could be the cam it's self? hopefully not and this cam gear will work out well along with flushing out the oil the best you can. Also if you haven't I'd probably put a strong magnet on the oil pan to help grab any particals... crossing my fingers it lasts a while with the new gear.. if it happens again maybe we swap out the cam...

-=Rick

biggrizzly wrote:
Allstate Motor Club has helped me many times! Mine is unlimited towing! All C4 owners should have roadside assistance.

joshwilson3 wrote:
Quote:

biggrizzly wrote:
Allstate Motor Club has helped me many times! Mine is unlimited towing! All C4 owners should have roadside assistance.

Is that better than AAA?

Matatk wrote:
Should it be measured with distributor in or out. If in, with or without gasket. Article above alludes to installing with a gasket and clamping down, which I might do tomorrow.
Matthew

flyboy wrote:
The end play in mine measured like in your picture is .030".

flyboy wrote:
So the .025"-.030" clearance with the dist. out is to allow for housing expansion and the "some" vertical play with the dist. installed is for oil pump drive clearance, correct?

Matatk wrote:
Haven't done anything else since the last posts but ponder on the car. I know my fuel trim was a little lean, but that wouldn't cause the running issues/hesitation. I'm considering a new distributor altogether, even though I've replaced almost every part on this stock unit.

If so, I'm leaning towards the DUI (Davis Unified Ignition) #12611BK:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-12611BK/

Not cheap at $300, but if it solves my problems then I don't care.

I'm not sure the stock dizzy is keeping up with the rpms and 400+ hp/tq.

Oh well, just the ramblings of a broken man with a broken car....

Matthew

istter1 wrote:
I have had enough problems with my 87 Clutch Hydrolics over the past year. I think I am learning a lot about the love of our Vetts by following your post here. Lots of support and kinship on this site. The help and support I have receive here is awsome.
Intrested in what is going to be the answer to your delima.

Hang in there sounds like you are a par above most people.

Hang in there

Steve

PeteK wrote:
Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Haven't done anything else since the last posts but ponder on the car. I know my fuel trim was a little lean, but that wouldn't cause the running issues/hesitation. I'm considering a new distributor altogether, even though I've replaced almost every part on this stock unit.

If so, I'm leaning towards the DUI (Davis Unified Ignition) #12611BK:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DUI-12611BK/

Not cheap at $300, but if it solves my problems then I don't care.

I'm not sure the stock dizzy is keeping up with the rpms and 400+ hp/tq.

Oh well, just the ramblings of a broken man with a broken car....

Matthew

Davis starts with a stock GM distributor, and adds a couple of electronic pieces.
I have run in the 10's with a nitrous combo with a stock disributor. You don't need a $300 unit, unless you want one.

Matatk wrote:
Mick gave me another point to track down. He said my voltage is dipping a little low. He states the rear alternator brace also acts as an additional ground circuit. Mine is removes due to the headers. Could also be a bad diode in the alternator itself. I'm going to add an additional ground. The effect in my mind is twofold: the computer makes fuel changes based on battery voltage. I think its the power enrichment/voltage table but Mick will have to verify that. Secondly, low voltage could be causing a weak spark under load......hmmmm

Matthew

Ps - thanks Pete

Matatk wrote:
Rick and Pete....I think I was just grasping at straws trying to think of a cause of weak ignition. But I'm going to look into the voltage issue.

To everyone else, thanks for the kind words....just want to get this solved!

Matthew

Matatk wrote:
Mick gave me another point to track down. He said my voltage is dipping a little low. He states the rear alternator brace also acts as an additional ground circuit. Mine is removes due to the headers.

Matatk wrote:
Jeff-

I was considering that, finding a suitable ground point away from header heat and moving belts. I`m also considering the cs144 upgrade, too.

Matthew

Information
Enthusiasts that have installed long tube headers may find that their engines are running in opened loop because the O2 sensor is not heated to 600 degrees.
This is especially true if the O2 bung is relocated to the collector. In the case of the Hooker 2149 header, the bung is located on the #7 tube out of the box. This makes the stock O2 sensor work properly, however, the sensor is only measuring the gases from one cylinder, which can be
inacurate.

Thanks to the help of many forum members, here is some
helpful information that may ease the pain of converting the standard O2 sensor to a heated one.

Parts required:

* Bosch O2 Sensor.
This sensor is AutoZone part number 13190 and costs $43.99. This is an Autozone part number not a Bosch part number.
* 3 Female Terminal Tower. This is available at Pep Boys. Part number 85392. It costs $7.99.
The are a couple of these available. This one has leads. There is another that has no leads and you must puchase leads, insulators, etc.
* 1 Female Terminal tower, which can be cut from old O2 sensor or a new one can be purchased at Pep Boys.
Miscellaneous wire, insulation, crimps, tie wraps.

Tools Required: 7/8” wrench, pliers, 10mm socket,
crimp tool, wire cutters, wire stripper.

Procedure:

1. For those that are anal about proper procedure, disconnect positive battery connection. For the rest of us, go to step 2.
2. Disconnect old O2 sensor feed wire by carefully disconnecting clip.
3. Use 7/8” wrench to remove old sensor.
4. Install new sensor. Sensor has anti-seize on it already. Tighten with 7/8” wrench.
5. Cut lead from old O2 sensor so you do not have to mangle your car’s wiring harness. If you prefer to keep your original O2 sensor whole, you can purchase a new single connector from Pep Boys.
6. Connect 3 female tower connector to new O2 Sensor.
7. Crimp the old lead from the old O2 sensor to the wire on the 3 female tower connector that corresponds to the black wire of the new O2 sensor. Insulate well with high temp insulation!
8. Connect the old sensor lead now coming from the black wire of the new O2 sensor to the car’s O2 sensor lead.
9. The other two wires of the new O2 sensor are white.
Connect one of the corresponding wires to ground. It does not matter which one. There is a convenient 10mm bolt that connects to the engine just to the rear of the oil filter. This is a good ground.
10. Cut an appropriate length of (red) wire and crimp to the other corresponding
white lead of the new O2 sensor. Insulate the connection.
11. Connect the other end to your favorite 12V source that is ignition activated. There is a good source on the Fan Relays that is ignition triggered.
12. Tie wrap everything out of the way from the
intense heat source of the header!

Enjoy! You car will behave much
better, at least mine did! No more constant running rich due to
constant open loop.

Flame Red