which would be better for me? full active or Semi Active? Full active is better but due to my equipment and power I am not sure..

here is what I have


Nakamichi CD400
two Arc KS 300.4

Front Stage:
1" Tweeter 4" Mid, 6.5 Midbass

Rear:
6.5 woofer (might swap to an 8")

Current setup has one amp bridged to the rear and one amp bridged to the front with a 3-way Passive Crossover

I have a XM6 which will give me the last piece to go active in one of 2 ways:

Active Option 1:
Amp 1
2 channels to a 2-way passive for the 1" and 4" (I have a set of 2 way passives)
2 channels for the 6.5 midbass

Amp 2
Bridged for the Woofers

Active Option 2:
Amp 1
2 channels for 1" tweeters
2 channels for 4" midrange

Amp 2
2 channels for 6.5 midbass
2 channels for Woofers


Active Option 1 uses the XM6 for crossover duty
Active Option 2 uses the XM6 as well as the croosovers on the Arc for the midrange and midbass as well as the XM bandpass.

AMP Specs:

Power output RMS @ 4 ohms 4 x 90 watts
Power output RMS @ 2 ohms 4 x 175 watts
Power output RMS @ 4 ohms bridged 2 x 350 watts

3rd Active Option:
a/d/s PH15 (6x60)
2 channels to a 2-way passive for the 1" and 4" (I have a set of 2 way passives)
2 channels for the 6.5 midbass
2 channels for Woofers
then Sell the 2 ARC Audio Amps


Thoughts and/or opinions?

leaning towards this:
Active Option 1:
Amp 1
2 channels to a 2-way passive for the 1" and 4" (I have a set of 2 way passives)
2 channels for the 6.5 midbass

Amp 2
Bridged for the Woofers

I will use the CDT Satnet-400 or the MB Quart 200.72 passives that I already have.. this gives 90 for the Tweeter and 4" and then 90 for the midbass

I am thinking... I will churn on this over night.

I have been thinking of updating the system in my 92... ever since these JL Audio 8W7's showed up.

These are serious subs... and I want some serious control.

So... what you have set up should work great. Do the amps have any crossovers built in? If so, can you defeat them? I hate that, cause it caused crossover hell if you have an active and then some integrated thing killing your hoped for settings.

This is what I wanna get:

Back in the day, everyone at the high end was using these 32 band eqs. They were actually studio equalizers, but were used in the car. I can't remember who made them.

A picture is worth a thousand words...

Attach file:

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Vette Stereo.pdf Size: 8.00 KB; Hits: 243

yes I can set the amps for 'full' (bypassing the X over functionality..

So you think my option 2 is a good plan? I think 90w per tweeter only is overkill and I could use the one amp for the woofers and give them more power..

I could essentially even set up the system without the XM6 and just use a FMOD on the input for the midbass as a temporary solution and use the internal x-overs as a test until I get the rest of the pieces to integrate the Crossover

That's what I would do... if you lay it out right, you can insert components as you find them.

I have seen great prices on xovers and such on ebay. Seriously great prices.

awe man.. there is an a/d/s Ph15 for $140 shipped..

that is a clean amp, 6x50 I think

tempting.. then sell the ARC amps

6x50 would run the three ways PERFECTLY... and a/d/s rocks.

All you need then is some balls for the subs.

On bastets 87, I am thinking of running these:

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produc ... etails.aspx?itemid=233192

...in the front door, as a large midbass. I just need something that is free air! With a 5" mid and 1" tweet.

There is room in the door for an enclosure

I have a PM to the guy on the a/d/s... that would work perfect with the XM6 and like you said, then just need a sub amp, Although my ARCs are good too.. just need to decide
I might do a quick wiring change this weekend, before I buy anything

I knew I should have stayed away from the audio sites..

Ugh with the PH15 I still need a second amp and I will NEED to use the XM6.. LOL

maybe I should stay with the dual ARCs.. but man if I knew how well the PH15 worked..

DAMN

yea... hate that too... might be worth a shot at the PH15, tho.

A warning... it looks like Directed - DEI Holdings - has flushed its car audio division. Orion was sold and a/d/s has been killed off.

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Wow.. those were 2 great amp companies back in the day..

I had a few Orion amps and I also had an a/d/s PH12..

Not sure I need that a/d/s but I might be buying it anyway.. LOL

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Orion is still around...

But in general, car audio has taken a huge nose dive in the last few years. Even Eclipse has gotten out of the US market... Alpine has been sinking, QC wise, and whenever I speak of being an audiophile to the "new age ICE types", I get a polite chuckle and get ignored because I don't want 25 monitors in my trunk.

To be honest, I blame the OEM manufacturers for improving factory car audio about 100 fold in the last 10 years.

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Yeah but at the same time it is nice to have a car with a stock system that sounds good..

the stock system in my 07 Malibu MAXX SS is pretty decent..

so I figure for the vette I am going to try all on the PH15

2 ch for the tweet and 4 on a passive
2 ch for mid bass
2 ch for woofers

worst case I need another amp which a PQ10 or PQ20 for a/d/s would fit the bill..

OR a PS5 for the 1 and 4" and then bridge 2 channels on the PH15

As for subs, I am a big fan of Rockford Fosgate's monoblock amps. They are a good size, pack a shit load of power AND punch (sorry) and still sound very nice without distortion, noise or other stupid things. In short, they are EXCELLENT sub amps. I don't feel their other amps are a nice for sound quality, but I am smitten by the sub amps.

And you can get them cheap on ebay.

The factory system on my MIL's 2001 Camry is rather nice, too. Sure, it lacks, but overall, pleasant.

hmm,

guy is having paypal issues.. I have not sent money yet but I am now starting to wonder...

I know that ebay had some paypal related issues earlier this month.

good know.. I will just wait and see

So, I have not hesrd from the guy with the PH15 since friday, I did not send funds since his paypal was messed up and he never sent his paypal address. At this point I am not going to worry about it.

First plan is you use passives on the tweeter and 4" and active the Midbass with a pair of FMODs and the crossovers on the Amps..

next step will be to add the XM6, but I want/need to decide if I will go full active at that point.. I think 90 to each woofer in back might be enough.. I also would like to move the amps to the wall, going active will help by eliminating the passive crossover

Okay I am pretty much ready to throw my passives in the trash.

There is a speaker cutting out still, I think it is one of the 4" I sure it is not the amp as the tweeter still plays.

I am leaning really hard on going to an active 2 way in the front with the subs in the rear. I will more then likely keep the 6.5" in the door and then put the tweeter in the kick.

Honestly with the system working correctly it sounds great even with the 1" and 4" in the kicks but I am just DONE with passives and the headaches with them that I am having

I hear ya... my only problem with actives? They can create noise... I had that problem with an active a number of years back.

What might fix it is a line booster to bring voltage up so high as to kill noise.

Check what Audio Control has to offer. In the last 10 years, the car audiophile has taken a beating... we can't find jack for quality hardware anymore... and it kills me.

You know..

The more I think about the more I tend to think my 4" speakers are done.. when I got them the guy said one had issues and I forget about the other. Maybe I can find a pair of 4" put the 3 way passives back in and try again..

I found these locally:

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/ele/3188431813.html

I don't have the cash right now... refi is nearing... but if I did...

Yeah that would be nice

I have CDT CL4s I have found a couple sets on eBay.. maybe I will look closer

Well,

I just bought a pair or CL-4 replacements.. Hopefully this will fix it

keep me posted! You may also want to reach out to NelsonV, I think he makes his own passive crossovers.

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Will do..

After having the speaker issues with 2 sets of crossovers ( one set being brand new) I tend to think it is the speakers themselves..

Not sure when I will have all the time to do the speakers as I am doing a couple other things tot he fronts at the same time ( mounting and Grills)

that's not good. I had not heard of durability/QC issues with CDT products. Have you reached out to them for warranty options?

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on what the speakers?
not sure I have any ground to stand on.. I bought the first set of CL4 Used in 2006 for like $25

The guys told me they had issues, I have no clue if he over powered them or what.

I am pretty sure the crossovers are good, no signs of any burning or damage.. Coils look good and Caps are not leaking, so I am comfortable with the crossovers I have been the only one to use them.

They other option is the speakers have a loose connection on the back, but I am thinking that there is some damage tot he speakers..

I paid $65 for a pair of replacements so I am not too upset

oh, well, in that case... I wouldn't worry either. Cheap experiment!