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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Posted on: 2013/12/1 4:30
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Making good progress....at least with the dash apart you can change the heater core...lol.
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Posted on: 2013/12/1 4:46
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| teebee | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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What happened to using the LT1 intake?
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Posted on: 2013/12/1 5:05
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Quote:
I was pretty angry I made a mistake like that. The smart thing to do would have been to evaluate the wiring harness first and then figure out how to install it without removing the dash. I usually avoid situations like that, but I have alot going on right now and my mind was in a different place. The good news is, the dash absolutely had to come out anyway. Even though the firewall in that area was not damaged, the heated air got into the plastic heater box and melted it. If I didn't replace it the car would never have any heat or air conditioning. I decided while the dash was out, I might as well do a heater core and that's when I found the box was damaged... so I did same some work in the long run, but boy is that interior a mess! Wiring is all done,... everything fits factory. The car is really shaping up nicely so far. |
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Posted on: 2013/12/1 21:01
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Quote:
Very good question. In my area we have alot of really bad shops and one great one. The machine shop I had the engine built at, I have been using for almost a decade. Circle track racing in my area is very big and these guys build 90% of those engines. You would think that would make the prices unreasonable but you would be mistaken. On top of superior work the prices are very, very fair. Having worked with them before and seeing the results on the last few engines we had built I tend to not argue when I am told something. They downright refused to put the intake on engine they built. We had purchased an already done intake from a corvetteforum member who had lied about the condition (go figure), and when we received it realized it was worthless. So we went as far as to purchase a new ported LT1 intake from ebay. We brought both to the machine shop to have them make the adjustments so we could use it on this engine. They took one look at it and said NO!. Most of the intakes being built have water ports in the rear. I am told this is very bad because the water never flows to the front of the engine and doesn't cool the first 2 cylinders. This can lead to overheating and head gasket issues. The only way to make it work is to drill out the front ports, and their was not enough meat to run a significantly sized water opening to cool the engine. Now I know people have used this setup for years, but even after I went online looking for information on how true this was, I couldn't find any. This is due in part to the fact that by the time these intake swaps came around, LSx swaps were more popular. The engine is brand new from top to bottom. Only things reused were the pistons, rods, and crank. The heads have been hand ported, all the valves and bearings are new. I rather do it the right way, then rig it and have a problem. I don't want to have to face these guys if I do have an issue after i was told no. DG |
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Posted on: 2013/12/1 21:11
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| bogus | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Interesting. I have never heard that theory. If you ask me, it sounds like crap... Why would the coolant stop? Why not keep flowing up the head? Why is it coming from the back? these are standard flow, so coolant should go from front to back.
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Posted on: 2013/12/2 0:07
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Quote:
It would be nice if someone could clarify this. I am still very curious. Essentially it is my understanding that the coolant flows from the lower hose through the pump from the front to back, then up the back to the front. If so I can understand where you would have a lull where the coolant goes out the rear passages into the hoses and back into the radiator, overheating the front of the engine block where the coolant essentially boils. Otherwise I would agree, it really wouldn't make any difference. Normally I would disagree as I am usually the first person to make accusatory statements but these guys have already proven to be reliable so I just take there word for it. There was no incentive for them not to machine the intake, the would have just made more money. I can't see why you would turn away easy work unless you honestly thought it was a bad idea. As I mentioned before there is really not enough information on this to know for sure. Now the tough part is finding an intake that works. So far we are on budget with this project even with the engine rebuild DG |
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Posted on: 2013/12/2 2:09
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Posted on: 2013/12/2 3:24
Edited by Danspeed1 on 2013/12/2 3:58:19 |
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| KPotter | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Dan, circle track racing is big in your area ? That's putting it mildly. Someday I am going to make it out to the Eastern States 200 and several other big shows. May I ask what engine shop you are dealing with ?
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Posted on: 2013/12/2 19:33
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Yes, I do all my work with Bob and John at Precision Engines in Middletown, NY. I am not much into circle track racing, however, back about 8 years ago we had a 72 Corvette that needed an engine and we bought a 377 from them. I was hooked. Endless RPM and Torque... They also did the head work on my C6. I am making 562HP/583TQ on 9psi of boost from a M112, no knock, no heat issues. Car runs consistently at 169*F. Unfortunately I was not smart enough to invest in a new oil pump... (see thread in C6 section of this forum) DG |
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Posted on: 2013/12/3 5:36
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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I wish I had more time to keep up with this thread, but it seems like I spend every day just running around and never have any time to even make a post.
Car is coming along, a hell of a lot quicker than my C6 did. I have a few pictures for you guys and some updates. The dash is almost back together as of today. Next time I will have time work work on it will be Friday, but I am hoping to have a hell of a lot more done then along with some new pictures. The heater box is out of a 95, got it off ebay. Had to move the controller from the top of the box to the bottom... hoping it moves in the right direction when it finally comes time to adjust the heat and a/c. The good news is, it went in easy and the dash is going back together at rapid pace. Picked up the new engine from the machine shop! Looks awesome, hopefully runs awesome. And I was surprised to see my father purchased a TPIS miniram for it. This blows the budget but at least the car is getting done right. Looks like its going to turn out to be a very nice car when its done! I was also able to get the wiring harness in without any major issues.   New heater box!  Old Heater box!     |
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Posted on: 2013/12/10 5:58
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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I do have a couple of questions if anyone can answer them.
1. Where can I get new fuel lines from the fuel filter forward? 2. Do I need to retain my accumulator on my fuel lines? 3. There is a solenoid under the battery with a few orange wires. The orange wires are coming out of the engine harness. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for those wires, as I am not sure which ones go where on the solenoid? 4. I damaged the pilot bearing for the transmission. It is a standard GM brass bearing (some call it a bushing). I am having trouble purchasing one for this vehicle because for whatever reason most auto parts stores no longer carry them. I think they moved to a needle bearing type bushing. Problem is every website shows a different size for the bushing. Specifically, which one do I need? Is there one in particular you guys are all using? DG |
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Posted on: 2013/12/10 6:06
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| captmike13 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Looks like Rock Auto has the bushing. About $12.00.
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Posted on: 2013/12/10 11:02
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Mike| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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1) No one makes those fuel lines as far as I know. I have seen several people who replaced them with braided line instead. If you want stock lines you will have to get them used from a salvage yard.
Here is on on ebay $40: http://www.ebay.com/itm/C4-Corvette-F ... sh=item27dbdcb19c&vxp=mtr 2) I believe you are referring to the disc shaped item on the fuel line? Not sure if that's necessary or not. If it's a dampener/pulsator then I would assume the fuel lines would just make more noise? 3) I don't know what solenoid you mean? Is it on here:  |
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Posted on: 2013/12/10 15:15
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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I bought those lines you linked me to on ebay. Got them for #$20 + shipping!
Thanks, DG |
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Posted on: 2013/12/15 1:58
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Awesome! That's a deal right there.
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Posted on: 2013/12/15 2:35
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| bogus | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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orange wires? Those are fusible links. A bunch collect behind the battery at the main junction box.
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Posted on: 2013/12/15 5:42
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Hello everybody and happy new year!
Looks like this project is going to make its way into 2014. Fortunately, although there were a few hick ups along the way the car seems to be coming together nicely. As I mentioned in my previous thread there were a couple of additional fusible links that the 90 harness did not have, but I connected them up anyway and was able to ground most the harness and cycle through a few of the electrical functions, like the lights and stereo; most of it seems to work and there is no sparking or smoking occuring so I guess I am good to go.   Good to finally see some life breath back into her! In addition to the wiring I was able to install the new evaporator core box, heater and plug the harness in.  I all installed a new Delco fuel filter and the replacement lines Matak found on ebay. They fit like a glove!  I found that my AIR BAG SENSOR was burnt to a crisp so I removed that and am actually looking for a new one. They are quite hard to find so if anyone has a source on those (I believe they are year specific) I would greatly appreciate the input Finally the last thing I did was installed a new wheel speed sensor, however I left it disconnected. I haven't had an opportunity to look at a wiring diagram, but when I tried to splice the wires coming out from under the bottom sill of the car I found that both wires were RED and I am not sure which one goes to which or even if it matters. If anyone knows and could clarify that it would be greatly appreciated as well.  |
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Posted on: 2013/12/31 4:58
Edited by Danspeed1 on 2013/12/31 5:14:16 |
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Today's big project of the day was to pull the ZF6 and install the new engine. I was able to pull the ZF6 in about 15 minutes. The pilot bearing in the back of the crank was destroyed from when we pulled the motor so I had to yank it out with a slide hammer and put a new one in. I was able to get a dorman bronze pilot bushing from napa. I have no idea where its made but lets just say it was a tight fit. I tried initially installing the bushing with no success. I left my micrometer at home so I was only able to eyeball the bushing against the old one. They looked "about" the same in side. So threw the bushing in the freezer which wasted a good half hour. Tried installing it again, and still was unsuccessful. God frustrated and rolled the engine and bearing outside. Fortunately it was 20*F out; even though I know better I was left with no choice but to hammer it in. Doesn't seem like I deformed it but I guess only time will tell. From there I threw on the flywheel, clutch disc, installed my advance auto parts cheapo clutch disc alignment tool, and grabbed the pressure plate. Then I realized my day was over. Throwout bearing is shot, the grease is blown out, and it rattles all over the place. And with only 30K miles.....
 On the bright side, I "THINK" the clutch disc looks ok?? any thoughts....??  DG |
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Posted on: 2013/12/31 5:23
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Gotta purchase some new sensors tomorrow. Got to figure out what the burned up ones are first...
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Posted on: 2013/12/31 5:45
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| joeld | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Starting from the left:
Coolant temp sensor Knock sensor Tach filter Oil pressure sender/fuel pump switch Joel |
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Posted on: 2013/12/31 17:08
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Sir (crash) sensor is impossible to find, good luck.
Above sensors: iat or cts /?/tach filter/oil pressure/knock sensor. |
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Posted on: 2013/12/31 17:08
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| BrianCunningham | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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If that's suppose to be for an LT1/4 the coolant is flowing in the wrong direction  |
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Posted on: 2013/12/31 19:41
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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#1 from left could also be oil temp sensor:
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvet ... ure-sensor-1990-1996.html #2 might be the coolant temp sensor for the head: http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvet ... ure-sensor-1981-1991.html #3 definitely tach filter #4 definitely oil pressure switch #5 definitely knock sensor |
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Posted on: 2014/1/1 1:21
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Quote:
We learned from another member that if the SIR is open the car will not start. You might need to remove the system and jumper some wires. http://www.corvetteguruforum.com/modu ... id=218593#forumpost218593 |
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Posted on: 2014/1/1 1:28
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Just realized something important we will need. We have air... fuel... we have yet to order a new distributor, or plugs.
I have a rebuilt MDS box I am going to use and an MSD coil laying around. The box isn't going to do much but will provide a spark rev limiter which is very beneficial. I found a 6400 RPM pill, I think that's probably a fair rev limit, shifiting somewhere around 6K. For the distributor; will this work with the configuration we have and the TPIS miniram JEGS Performance Products 40006 - JEGS Chevy HEI External Coil Distributor - will fit JEGS Performance Products#555-40006 HEI External Coil Distributor 1987-95 Chevy with External Coil  Says it will fit, am assuming it will work with my pcm, however I am wondering if the TPIS miniram requires a specific distributor? Also, what plugs do I run? Do I need a colder heat range? Car will be run on 93 octane. Will a set of copper delco's work? DG |
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Posted on: 2014/1/2 0:46
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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NGK recommends one range colder for every 75-100 HP you add. I like NGK plugs, I run them.
I don't see why that dizzy wouldn't work since you are converting to an external coil. I think you might need an adapter for the different wiring harness but there is a plug and play one available online. |
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Posted on: 2014/1/2 3:11
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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So stock calls for A.C. Delco FR5LS so 2 steps colder would be FR3LS.... am I headed in the right direction here?
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Posted on: 2014/1/2 5:53
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Update: Distributor on the way, ordering plugs tomorrow so I am hoping that part number is correct. For those of you whodo not know the throw out bearing for this vehicle is discontinued from General Motors and from what I could tell is not being offered from any aftermarket manufacturers other than Ecklers. I opted not to go with the Bearing from ecklers because of the fact that it is made in China and not in the US and has been a problem for a lot of other vehicles from what I can tell from previous posts in other threads. Instead I spent my afternoon on the phone with GM, and we were able to locate a dealer in Michigan who had an original bearing with the original part number, sitting on the shelf. The bearing was stamped made in USA from what the parts guy said. Hopefully this one will last a little longer. Unfortunately it cost us $232. In addition we purchased all new sensors including the oxygen sensors. The bills are certainly starting to stack up and the car is beginning to nickel and dime us but at least it's coming together properly. Still no luck locating an airbag control module.
Does anyone have any information on that wheel speed sensor wire? Dg |
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Posted on: 2014/1/4 4:56
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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As far as spark plugs, do you think you need to go two ranges colder? Are you adding 150-200 hp?
If the wires are both red, I would guess it doesn't matter. |
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Posted on: 2014/1/5 2:06
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| bogus | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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have you tried Vette2Vette for the airbag control module?
What module are you looking for? |
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Posted on: 2014/1/5 17:50
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Quote:
Yea, from what I read of the information that you sent me, the engine should be making around 420 hp and I plan on running the MSD 6AL ignition box (mostly for the rev limiter); the combination of the horsepower and the ignition system calls for a plug two steps colder... from my understanding. As for the plugs, they were long discontinued, but I personally prefer AC Delco plugs so I was able to sources set off-line that have been sitting on the shelf. |
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Posted on: 2014/1/5 18:26
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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This is the sensor I need. The picture is actually from Yvette to vettes site. It's 90 specific.
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Posted on: 2014/1/5 20:09
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| bogus | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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where does that go? Under the battery or under the radio? It looks like the part under the battery.
Call Chris May at Superior Chevy, in Kansas... he's my goto guy for hard to find Vette parts. 800.728.8267. Tell him I sent ya... Also, Corvette Salvage, down in Mississippi... Dino's Corvette Salvage, that is...  Another place to check is ebay... they may not show it, but reaching out to a vendor might find it. |
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Posted on: 2014/1/5 21:35
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Thank you Andy I will give those guys a call tomorrow!
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Posted on: 2014/1/5 21:46
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| bogus | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Quote: Danspeed1 wrote: Thank you Andy I will give those guys a call tomorrow!
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Posted on: 2014/1/6 1:09
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Quote:
Dad beat me to it; When I came over today, there was a SIR sensor from an 91 sitting on the kitchen table. He wants me to spice the old connector onto the newer sensor although I rather just get the right part. DG |
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Posted on: 2014/1/10 2:50
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Spent a little more time on the car today. My father had surgery so he's out of the picture on this project. Now its up to me to complete it.
Got the correct clutch disc centering tool and was able to install the flex plate on the back of the motor.  Turns out the throwout bearing was ok, so i reused the old one.. my mistake.  And installed the bell housing and front crank pulley.  Figured I would install it with the starter while I was at it. Thought it would mean less time on my back, but I was wrong (trans gave me trouble)  Believe it or not, after I finished putting the bell housing and crank pulley on, the engine basically slid right in.  I laid the harness out all nice and pretty too...  This was the easy part of my day... the hard part is coming up. |
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Posted on: 2014/1/10 2:58
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Elite Guru
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Now for the Q&A part of todays post.
First off, the plugs arrived today. Does anyone know what the gap should be on an engine making around 420HP with an MSD 6AL and billet distributor?  After having an easy morning installing the engine and a couple of accessories, I ran into a major problem. I can't get the mother ******* transmission back in to save my life. I am really stumped here and need some tips or tricks!!! I wound up having to pull the drive shaft and C-BEAM because they were both in the way. What's interesting is it looks like after I get the transmission bolted to the bell housing there is not going to be enough room to even get the C-BEAM back in. Is this correct? No matter anyway. I can't even get the input shaft to slid in the clutch disc properly, and forget lining up the pilot busing. I read ZFDOC but its very vague to me... can anyone be a little more specific as to how this thing installs. 3 honest hours messing with it and no success. Running out of patience quickly. DG |
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Posted on: 2014/1/10 3:03
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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| bogus | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
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making great progress!!!
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Posted on: 2014/1/10 4:33
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Webmaster
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It always looks like the c-beam won't fit. I had the same thing in June when I did mine. It will fit, I promise. You have to move it all the way to the side as far as possible and then back and forth a few times to get it to slide on.
According to MSD: "As a rule of thumb, it is recommended to increase the plug gap by .005” - .010” followed by testing and tuning. Keep in mind that larger spark plug gaps also place increasing demands on the secondary portion of the ignition system including the distributor cap and rotor, coil wire, and spark plug wires. They should all be in top condition and checked periodically during the race season. Remember that electricity takes the path of least resistance to a ground so if the gap is too large the spark may short to another point with less resistance. " |
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Posted on: 2014/1/11 1:43
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2002 EBM convertible, Magnusson supercharger, cam, headers, etc. 1989 Corvette...RIP |
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Elite Guru
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Hey guys, sorry for the delay in updates I've been very busy. GOOD NEWS! After struggling to get the transmission in for about three hours, I gave my redneck friend a call. He is much more methodical than I am. He spent about 15 minutes taking a look over the parts I had; giving the vehicle good look over, and then he proceeded to grab a couple of screwdrivers, a prybar, a regular Jack, and slid underneath the car got to work. With his assistance we were able to get the transmission in in about 45 minutes without any real issue. The C beam was interesting to install, and I will leave it at that. I don't have time to get back over there this week, but I will be sure to take some pictures next week of the progress. For now I was able to get the transmission and engine bolted into the vehicle, the water pump on, and some of the wires bolted to the block. It certainly starting to look like a car again. Now I just need to find a new intake that fits the engine
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Posted on: 2014/1/15 1:37
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Elite Guru
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Hey guys, sorry for the delay in updates I've been very busy. GOOD NEWS! After struggling to get the transmission in for about three hours, I gave my redneck friend a call. He is much more methodical than I am. He spent about 15 minutes taking a look over the parts I had; giving the vehicle good look over, and then he proceeded to grab a couple of screwdrivers, a prybar, a regular Jack, and slid underneath the car got to work. With his assistance we were able to get the transmission in in about 45 minutes without any real issue. The C beam was interesting to install, and I will leave it at that. I don't have time to get back over there this week, but I will be sure to take some pictures next week of the progress. For now I was able to get the transmission and engine bolted into the vehicle, the water pump on, and some of the wires bolted to the block. It certainly starting to look like a car again. Now I just need to find a new intake that fits the engine
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Posted on: 2014/1/15 1:59
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Glad to hear it is in!
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Posted on: 2014/1/15 3:31
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2002 EBM convertible, Magnusson supercharger, cam, headers, etc. 1989 Corvette...RIP |
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| Matatk | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Posted on: 2014/1/17 14:31
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2002 EBM convertible, Magnusson supercharger, cam, headers, etc. 1989 Corvette...RIP |
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| bogus | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Grand Imperial Pooh-Bah
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I am a big fan of this transmission jack from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb- ... nsmission-jack-60240.html |
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Posted on: 2014/1/18 4:23
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The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. - George Bernard Shaw Education is the best tool to overcome irrational fear. - me |
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| jonszr1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Senior Guru
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[quote]
Danspeed1 wrote: Well, unfortunately although I feel the same way, and my father felt the same way as he actually told her when he picked up the car she should have went after him, but apparently she is too busy and just wanted to be rid of the car. Now that it is in our possession the only thing to do is look forward. It is my opinion that he scored a really nice project car with a decent story. The car still has her plates on it and they are being returned this week. Even though it has nothing to do with us my father feels she should know that this guy filled her engine with gas so he is going to tell her as well as provide her with pictures. But at the end of the day its not going to change anything. As for the car: today he was able to score what appears to be a complete harness from inside the car all the way though the engine compartment out of a 91... hopefully its the same as a 90? Now we just need to figure out what to do with the engine. As always we work on a budget. Although I would love to do an LSx swap, I have a feeling mating a LSx to a ZF6 is going to create another hair pulling situation, and we already have enough of that going on. So maybe a heads/cam TPI is the best direction to go in. DG[/quotemating the zf tranny to a ls motor isn't bad at all. bill boudreau aka the zf doc makes an adapter that makes it a piece of cake here is his phone number 602 319 6575 .tell him brad from lone pine sent ya . he is a great guy who does awesome rebuilds of the zf tranny .he could also help you through the rest of the change as he has already done it to his 89. |
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Posted on: 2014/1/18 20:16
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Elite Guru
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Quote:
Lol.... Thanks for the tip but we're too far along with this project now to turn back and swap an ls motor in. That's very good information to know for the future though, I'm a very big fan of the ZF6, I love how the transmission shifts and feels. It's nice,to know it can be swapped into just about anything now. I will keep my eyes open at the parts swap meets. |
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Posted on: 2014/1/19 20:09
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Elite Guru
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Andy, that transmission Jack is cool but EXPENSIVE and really not that much different from my motorcycle stand.
Dg |
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Posted on: 2014/1/19 20:10
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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| Danspeed1 | Re: How NOT to flush engine oil! | ||
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Elite Guru
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Still looking for a 1204 Tpis mini ram...
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Posted on: 2014/1/19 20:11
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1971 Chevelle SS (The Original) 1972 Chevelle SS 454 1995 Corvette Convertible 1996 Ford Explorer 2009 Cadillac CTS-v |
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