Picked this up at a good price/

Are these install directions pretty accurate?
Will or won't I have to remove valve covers and rocker arms for cylinders 2, 3, 6 and 7 exhaust only.
Read some where about studding some of the bolt holes to make this faster?
Thanks in advance for any advise.
Steve


Install SuperRam Directions
Posted by: teamzr1
Install SuperRam Directions - 04/29/03 01:26 PM
PART #74196
SuperRam Plenum/Runner Kit

WARNING:
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING THIS INSTALLATION. FUEL LINES AND FUEL RAIL MAY BE UNDER HIGH PRESSURE, UNBOLT AND UNSCREW VERY CAREFULLY AS TO RELEASE ANY RESIDENT PRESSURE ON FUEL. NOTE THAT THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS MUST BE DONE WHILE VEHICLE IS COLD AND HAS NOT OPERATED WITHING 24 HOURS. ALWAYS USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN WORKING WITH ELECTRICAL AND COOLANT SYSTEM COMPONENTS!

ACCEL SuperRam Plenum/Runner Kit is a direct bolt-on replacement but offers improved performance and fuel economy potential. Consisting of the Lingenfelter designed plenum and runners, this new SuperRam Plenum/Runner configuration significantly improves volumetric efficiency for more horsepower and torque. The plenum lid is removable to enable plenum-to-runner port matching. Optional billet plenum lid part #74198.

Please read the following instructions carefully before installing your new SuperRam Plenum/Runner Kit. Also we recommend that you study your applicable OEM service manual before you begin your installation. Please make a note of your engine configuration with special attention to all vacuum, fuel and electrical connections for your future reference. It is a good habit to tag each part from your engine upon removal. This will help facilitate your reassembly. If you have any questions or problems, please contact our Tech Line at (313) 380-1328.

Before beginning your installation, make sure that you have the following parts:

Supplied with SuperRam Plenum/Runner Kit

17 ¼ - 28 x ½ Button Head Screws
16 ¼ - 28 x ¾ 12pt Head Bolts
4 M8 x 25 Socket Head Bolts
4 M8 x 30 Socket Head Bolts
1 M6 x 12 Screw
1 90 Degrees Brass Fitting – ¼” NPT
1 Cold Start Block Off Kit
1 Gasket Set, Runners, Box
1 13” 11/32 Vacuum Line
2 3/8” NPT Pipe Plugs
1 ¼” NPT Pipe Plug

NOTE: THE SMALL BLOCK SUPERRAM PLENUM/RUNNER KIT (PART #74196) IS LEGAL FOR SALE ON CALIFORNIA POLLUTION-CONTROLLED MOTOR VEHICLES. EXECUTIVE ORDER #D-221-12.

The following is a list of what is not included with this kit, but is suggested by ACCEL for ease of installation:

Loctite 262 thread locking compound
Anti-seize lubricant
Fel-pro #229 silicone rubber adhesive sealant
Plastic locating pins from stock gaskets
OEM approved valve cover gaskets
Digital volt meter

THROTTLE BODY REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Drain coolant.
3. Disconnect throttle linkages, cable retaining bracket.
4. Disconnect air inlet tube from throttle body and air cleaner assembly.
5. Remove throttle body bolts.
6. Disconnect TPS and IAC electrical connections.
7. Disconnect vacuum lines.

RUNNERS
WARNING: FUEL LINES AND FUEL RAIL MAY BE UNDER HIGH PRESSURE, UNBOLT AND UNSCREW VERY CAREFULLY AS TO RELEASE ANY RESIDENT PRESSURE OR FUEL.
1. Carefully disconnect fuel lines from intake assembly. Watch out for spraying fuel! Be sure this operation is done on a cold engine
2. Remove and save runner bolts and plenum assembly.
3. Push fuel rail assembly up to clear runners.
4. Remove runners and gaskets, save the OWM plastic locating pins for later re-assembly.

INTAKE MANIFOLD
1. Remove fuel rail assembly. Be careful for any residual fuel left in the fuel rail.
2. Remove spark plug wires and distributor cap.
3. Rotate engine manually to top dead center with distributor rotor pointing to cap location cylinder #1 and mark for proper installation.
4. Remove distributor.
5. Remove all fittings, sensors, etc… from your OEM plenum and intake. Please note location where removed from. This will facilitate re-assembly later.

REASSEMBLY
1. Install all sensors, fittings, etc… on your new ACCEL / Lingenfelter plenum and runners. Be sure to put sealer on threads. Install the two (2) 3/8 pipe plugs into threaded holes inside your new plenum. You should use Loctite 262 or equivalent and stake the plugs with a punch or chisel to prevent loosening.
2. Apply a thin bead of silicone to end rails and install intake gaskets.
3. Apply silicone sealer to intake manifold bolts and torque bolts to manufacturer’s specifications.
4. Re-install distributor, cap and wires. See Figure 1 for cylinder location.
5. You may be required to remove valve covers and rocker arms for cylinders 2, 3, 6 and 7 exhaust only. If removed, re-install rocker arms and set according to OEM specs.
6. Check alignment on runner gaskets. Some trimming may be required.
7. Apply a thing film of silicone to the runner gaskets, then carefully install the gaskets.
8. Carefully start the bottom runner bolts first (M8 x 25). Then slide runner over these bolts. Remember to always lubricate all bolts with an anti-seize compound.
9. Gently apply a small amount of lubricant to the injector O-rings.
10. Install fuel rails, but do not tighten them.
11. Install 4 – M8 x 30 bolts in the outside runner holes. Then install the original equipment runner bolts in the remaining holes.
12. On applications where the cold start solenoid is not used, a block off plug and plate with an O-ring is supplied. This should be installed in the machined hole in the driver’s side runner and held in with a runner bolt.
13. Tighten fuel rail bolts.
14. NOTE: On some applications the fuel injectors may slightly interfere with the SuperRam runners. To correct this problem you can increase the clearance by carefully filing the interference area with a file.
15. Lay T.V. cable on top of intake.
16. Apply a thin film of silicone to the plenum/runner gaskets and carefully install them.
17. Install the SuperRam plenum. Be sure to check that all sensors are installed and then connect the MAT sensor.
18. Carefully install the bolts from the runners to the SuperRam plenum. Do not tighten until all bolts have been started. These bolts thread up into the box.
19. Install the two original vacuum fittings, from the original plenum, into the rear of the SuperRam plenum. The 90 degree brass fitting installs in the hole on the driver side. On 1985-89 vehicles you should install the M6 x 12 screw in the small hole next to the vacuum fittings and the ¼ pipe plug in the third threaded hole. On 1990-91 vehicles this hole locates the MAP sensor. Install your vacuum fitting for the MAP sensor in the third hole. Be sure to apply silicone to all fittings to prevent vacuum leaks.
20. Carefully remove the fittings from the power brake booster. Remove the steel line and the factory vacuum hose. Install the 11/32” vacuum line. Some trimming may be necessary. The opposite end connects to the 90 degree brass fitting. This step replaces the OEM factory power brake vacuum line with a new rubber hose assembly. Be sure to carefully check power brake function before operation of vehicle.
21. Apply a thin film of silicone to the intake plenum box and install intake plenum top.
22. Carefully start all top bolts but do not tighten until all bolts have been started.
23. Install throttle body and gasket.
24. Reconnect all vacuum lines, electrical connections and intake ducting.
25. Install valve cover gaskets and valve covers.
26. Carefully connect fuel lines and any coolant system hoses.
27. Replace coolant.
28. Reconnect battery.

START UP AND CHECK OUT
1. Check TPS voltage.
1985-89 Idle voltage should be .54 volts.
1990-91 Idle voltage should be .70 volts.
2. Check initial timing and reset to 6 degrees (with ignition bypass disconnected) for best performance.
Please Note: Retard timing if you have any problems with detonation.
3. Your Idle Air Control motor (IAC) may need to be adjusted to allow the computer to provide proper idle. See GM service manual for instructions.

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thems really small pictures...

The directions look clear enough. Perhaps a little overly detailed - it's not rocket science.

The key? Making damned sure the lid is sealed!!! They are vacuum leak factories and are rather shitty casts, so they need to be worked to be tight. The best starting point is to make sure it's level/flat... and then seeing how it fits to the plenum. After that, it's fit, test, refit... best test? if it holds water, it's tight.

Do not try to fix with RTV, that's only going to cause problems.

The rest is just boiler plate.

You may find that a bigger throttle body will be needed...

Quote:

Thanks Andy looking at a 58mm

There are a lot of little tips. This intake is a pia to install. When I have a chance later I will post more details.

Bigger TB is not necessary but looks nice

The stud recommendation is for the plenum fastening to the runners. The kit is designed for the bolts to go in from underneath. Personally, I don't think it's that hard to get them from below, just get a ratcheting box wrench for em, and start all the bolts by hand before tightening anything. The risk of using studs is that one of those nuts inside the plenum comes loose and goes into the engine.

One idea I do like on those bolts is to slot the end of them with a dremel. This way you can tighten them from above with a screwdriver by backing them up into the hole, then just tighten from below.


Make sure the intake base matches up with your heads. The accel base doesn't have much casting so if you have large ports in your head the gasket may not seal. I saw this on the center intake ports. Dry fit all this on your work bench prior. Also the ports tend to be small so I'd recommend comparing them to the heads and port matching. That's a whole nother subject on how to get those to match.

Other tip is make sure your injectors do not bind when tightening the rail down. The intake base height and injector length have to play nicely. You should be able to rotate them by hand pretty easily when it's all bolted down. Especially important to check if you use the injector clips to the rail, as those push them down into the base more than without. I also recommend ditching the annoying injector harness clips. I've had them off my car for 10 years and never had a plug come loose.

You will definitely have to pull the valve covers off.

I think Mr. Gasket is getting some more gaskets in stock next week, those have been out of stock for awhile. I don't think they're listed as a mr gasket p/n though.


I'd avoid RTV whenever possible. Hell I didn't even use it on my water pump or tstat neck. It will make removal later a bitch. You'll end up damaging shit trying to pry it off, especially large surfaces like the lid where you have no leverage to remove it.

Quote:

Thanks for the advice. I thought the larger TB was needed.

Sears had the ratching wrenches on sale last Christmas and I bought a set. As for the studs good advice.
"just get a ratcheting box wrench for em, and start all the bolts by hand before tightening anything. The risk of using studs is that one of those nuts inside the plenum comes loose and goes into the engine."One idea I do like on those bolts is to slot the end of them with a dremel. This way you can tighten them from above with a screwdriver by backing them up into the hole, then just tighten from below.

Working on farm equipment as a boy we did this a lot. "Good reminder for me.

"Other tip is make sure your injectors do not bind when tightening the rail down. The intake base height and injector length have to play nicely. You should be able to rotate them by hand pretty easily when it's all bolted down. Especially important to check if you use the injector clips to the rail, as those push them down into the base more than without. I also recommend ditching the annoying injector harness clips. I've had them off my car for 10 years and never had a plug come loose."

Great to know.
"You will definitely have to pull the valve covers off

does this mean the rocker arms also? Great help thanks. Experience with the SR I am lacking. t
Your advice makes it not as much APITA
Thanks

congrats on finding one.

really the way to go on a CA car

I switched all the crappy supplied bolts to stainless steel allen cap bolts. Cost me around $50 online.

Personally I did have to remove the valve covers to do the install. I did not have to remove any rocker arms because I did use allen cap bolts with a ball end allen wrench.

I have aftermarket edelbrock covers that cleared the SR. Others have had to notch their VCs:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-te ... ram-fitment-question.html

If you want to stud the runners to make it easier to install from the top, a picture is in this thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-te ... ter-superram-install.html

More tech info on studding:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-te ... all-2.html#post1551451107

Agent86 also used nylock nuts and had predrilled the studs for mechanic's wire for an extra layer of security.

Hope this gives you some ideas.

Also, if you decide to use the supplied studs or allen caps, definitely slot the ends with a dremel so you can run them up from the top with a small screwdriver!

Another point I just remembered - you will either need to convert to a small cap distributor or reclock your current large cap. I turned mine 180* and had to extend a couple of wires in the process. Just make sure you correctly wire the spark plugs after. The orientation of the cap itself doesn't matter when doing the wires.

Quote:

"super point" like picture of runners visual of what to expect
UPS from NY to California on it's way.

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it's a neat system...

the torque from the TPI is kept, but the ability to rev past 5200 is gained.

It's good when installed and done! As I said, install can be icky. But not impossible.

A few random thoughts:

Get some nice stainless bolts, or, something nice in black. Either way, use allen heads, cause they look neat.

If you want, after getting the plenum fitted right, get it polished, or, powder coated. Either way, spiff it up beyond just the base casting finish, which isn't that nice, really.

it's a nice looking part, when done properly. I have seen some detail added that makes it really pop, visually.

Looking forward to the next step! Arrival!!!

People don't realize this, but the factory TPI runners end up being about 19" long! By the time they cross over, the be LONG!

The larger plenum allows for greater air fill and less high RPM stalling.

Think of it this way, in racing, they put restrictors on the intake. The idea is to limit airflow, limiting power. The old TPI was much like that. Case in point, the last of the Corvette GT1 cars, using the 7 litre, were limited by dual 1.3" (nominal, they were metric, and I don't remember the exact number) restrictors. Each bank was so restricted.

Talking to Ron Fellows one day, I learned that the restrictors forced the engine into a very limited power band, between about 2900 and 5400 rpm - think L98!

The reason for the big bore was torque. They simply could not get off the corner with the Viper (back 10+ years ago), with the small bore engine, even with extra RPM, the torque was simply not there.

Johnny O'Connell once said that he figures if the restrictors were removed from the 7 litre, it would punch out about 900 hp. It was restricted to about 520hp.

The new GT2 restriction is about 475 hp, but that's with a higher revving 5.5 litre. Thanks to Ferrari, all cars got a width allowance, so the C6r grew about 3" wider!

Not bad for an old push rod V8, eh?

Looking for gasket set.
Appears hard to find.
Any one know thickness of gasket paper. I have been making my own for years with a ball peen hammer. Lot cheaper than buying premade set/ lol

I doubt it's all that different than a standard gasket.

check with Lingenfelter...

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merch ... ory_Code=C46#.Um9DIfk_vGw

Thanks Andy Have several different sheets of material. Will make it work

I am sure you will... but in my post above, Lingenfelter does list the part... but not in stock, but available. You may want to call them about getting the gasket set.

The big pain is the top lid gasket. It's so big, and it must be one piece.

After that, the smaller ones are easy enough to make.

Check the lid for warpage

Did you get a billet lid or casting?

I used Victor Reinz gasket paper, the thicker one. I also made my own runner gaskets although it is much easier to use the lingenfelter kit especially for the lid. Cost is around $40.

I have 2 sheets of felt pro 0.063 in. Thick, 36 in. x 36 in.
will that fit. Sure hope it does.billet lid or casting

I don't know if it is billet lid or casting. I was told this one was the straightest one he has ever had.
Will know soon.

He would have told you if it was billet....trust me.

My lid seals fine with no issues.

cool will know soon

Quote:

It is a casting

Quote:

As he posted the lid is cast...and flat...

Take your time with the install..a little tedious but not difficult.Most of the runner to plenum bolts you will receive are already slotted if you want to use them.
I went the Auvecco stud route with Kep nuts on the bottom side of the runners.
If you want I can post the Auvecco numbers for the parts.
This makes plenum install easy..Using them means you will not remove the lid probably ever again

Think of this install like making a layer cake..one layer at a time..As I said in an email the only reason I put this up for sale was to go forward with the EBL flash computer..No more burning chips for me..
As bogus said you might want to have it powder coated or poli$ed..Me I would paint it HiTemp Aluminum and callit a day..Be sure to get a long M6 ball end allen makes life real easy for the lower runner bolts. You will not have to remove any rocker arms.BTW the crappy rusting allen heads have been replaced with stainless button heads..

Quote:

If you want Billet I am very close friends with a fellow who has a CNC shop...But he ain't cheap..Hass and master cam Rule.. You polish..LOL

Quote:


Nice to know you visit here. Looks like you have answered all the great people questions that are so helpful. I am going to power coat it.

Got a hell of a good price on it. Nobody business Lol

Thanks again I AM PUMPED
Steve

when is the arrival date?

mikeV said around Tuesday or Wednesday.

Getting ancy
was looking at Injector cleaning and what
the FIC injector chat was saying about the 383 choice. Thinking about having my stock original rebuilt .

get the new Bosch series III. They are so much better than the GM garbage of 1987. Even rebuilt... the new is just so much better.

Quote:

UPS Tracking shows it in Bakersfield..You should have it tomorrow afternoon..

Knock off are cheep
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw ... h+Design+III+corvette+lt4

where is the best deal FIC

Call Jon @FIC. Tell him what your motor is and he will steer you in the right direction..

Quote:

Lol awesome Thanks (Call Jon @FIC)

Going to be only 80 today.
Nice weather to work on vet.

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oooh... engine porn...

Well I am sick and staying home tomorrow. I had my chief parts inspector. Give the sniff test . He is happy and so am I.
Like I said great price parts as described and bought from a member of Corvette Guru
Talked to Jon today and he recommended.




I would use 24lb Bosch 3. You will need a reflash. Call PCM for less for that.
Jon

Ordered them a short while ago.

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yay!!!

Looks like the dog is looking forward to the install as well

Best of luck

Quote:

He loves it when I raise the hood.

I was checking if I needed to change the fuel pressure regulator when going from 22 - 24 lb.

Is what I found correct

at idle and WOT will you be running a little too rich. The ECM will compensate for even that issue by adjusting the BLM (Block Learn Multiplier) and Long Term Fuel Trim values which it uses to determine non-standard fuel operating conditions from the last time the car was operated. Since FMS injectors are rated using a fuel line pressure of 39psi and the 87 stock pressure is 43psi, some guys use the 19# FMS to achieve a more near stock fuel mix before the ECM even starts to make adjustments.

While an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is handy, your stock ECM can pretty easily handle the differences caused by using 24# or 19# injectors without one. GM had to build fallback reliability into the original system to compensate for aging fuel system components and unserviced air/fuel filters.

That information about fuel injectors does not apply to you. Your 383 needs more fuel than stock injectors provide and your tune will be adjusted to compensate.

I personally run 30 lb injectors, but there have been some very effective 383 combos running 24s in the past.

I contacted FIC and said

Just installed 383 stroker.
>>> Super ram here by ups in a couple hours
>>> I was told the bosch III is a good choice
>>> What would you recommend? Lb
Jon recommended


I would use 24lb Bosch 3. You will need a reflash. Call PCM for less for that.
>> Jon



I already ordered them
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIC-FUEL-INJE ... p=mtr&hash=item19e3b71a46

I will se if I like them if not neighbor building up Camaro wants them.

I would ask Alvin at pcmforless what he recommends since he is the one tuning the car.

Thanks Matatk.
I'll talk to him this morning

Good chance I have told. Do I have to use Cold Start Block Off Kit to install super ram?

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That depends on what fuel rail you are using and the superram version itself.

Lol different versions of SR lol.
Stock fuel rails.


"fuel rail you are using and the superram version itself. "

If I just use the Cold Start Block Off Kit. will that take care of any problems?

Let me clarify...

There are two versions of the superram. L98 and LT1 (yes, it exists). I also thought there were early L98 versions that allowed for the 9th injector, I guess not.

There are different versions of the fuel rails for the L98. 85-88 had the 9th injector, 89+ did not.

So, if the superram does not have provisions for a cold start injector and your fuel rail does, you use the block off plug. If you are using an 89-91 fuel rail, you do not need it.

Learn something new every day

5/8 difference

The cold start injector was designed to enrich the mixture at cold start... it was easier, or they hadn't figured out, how to ramp up the fuel in the other 8 injectors...

In many southern climates, the 9th is rather pointless. But if you live in winter... better keep it.