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BillH Chassis Build
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Well, this is going to be a looooong running thread cause I'm going to take my time and enjoy the build.

I pulled the body, yet again and cleaned up the bare frame.

All I got done this afternoon was installing the fuel line.

The fuel line comes in a 5 1/2 ft. long box and it's bent in half by the vendor for shipping. It's actually over 11 ft. long.

I did go anti-factory by buying stainless steel rather than plain steel tubing.

Took an hour & a half to correct the vendor's bends (which were off. It also goes thru the inside of the frame from the kick up back.


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Posted on: 2014/11/22 0:38
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Matatk Re: Chassis Build
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Very nice, Bill. Don't you hate having to fix/adjust brand new parts?
Posted on: 2014/11/22 1:50
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pianoguy Re: Chassis Build
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See, almost done! ;-)

Very cool, Bill - this will be a treat to watch it come together!
Posted on: 2014/11/22 2:07
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bogus Re: Chassis Build
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intense! Looks awesome!
Posted on: 2014/11/22 2:15
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

Matatk wrote:
Bill. Don't you hate having to fix/adjust brand new parts?


Yea, but it's expected on 25% the parts.

Race car parts are worse.

But I have pretty high standards.

I almost bought a cad plating rig this week but priced the correct (head markings) bolts and it was cheaper to buy them.

I'll start on the brake lines tomorrow. And may be the major pain of cleaning the rear end housing and finishing the gas tank which is 80% done.

Race car builds will cut into my time.

Posted on: 2014/11/22 2:41
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BrianCunningham Re: Chassis Build
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Nice!
Posted on: 2014/11/23 1:59
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Ultraman Re: Chassis Build
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This is the fun part I think.......not a lot of sanding.......
Posted on: 2014/11/23 4:15
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teebee Re: Chassis Build
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Sanding? I figure Bill will do the engine sanding just for the fun of it.

it is coming together, Bill. Looks like a great winter project. Maybe you could find a motorcycle to rebuild.
Posted on: 2014/11/23 14:08
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

teebee wrote:
Sanding? I figure Bill will do the engine sanding just for the fun of it.

it is coming together, Bill. Looks like a great winter project. Maybe you could find a motorcycle to rebuild.


I can't sand the engine, it still has the factory marks on it.

Now, tell me what they mean.

Motorcycles? I have 2 in the shed and one in the downstairs living room,

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jpg  2.jpg (187.37 KB)
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Posted on: 2014/11/23 15:14
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Ultraman Re: Chassis Build
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Well.....the HE is the designation for a 300 horse small block with a manual tranny..... and someone must have put that on the side so they know what components went into it.......thats what I think......

I will get started on the Honda as soon as I have some cool cabinets to put stuff in.......or soon after anyway.......

I have another big project that just showed up and I am focusing on working on that right now........
Posted on: 2014/11/23 15:33
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
Well.....the HE is the designation for a 300 horse small block with a manual tranny..... and someone must have put that on the side so they know what components went into it.......thats what I think..........


Correct, so the guys on the line would know weither to put flat tops or domed pistons. THEN, there and stamped marks on the oilpan gasket surface that denote the correct piston size (for piston to cyl. clearance).
Posted on: 2014/11/23 16:49
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Got the wheel bearings fitted in the rear hubs today.

This is an extreme pain in the ass if you don't have the $80 set up tool because both the inner & outer bearings are pressed on to the stub axles. If you try it using the axles and have the wrong shim in, the freeplay's not right and you have to press the new bearings off the axle (obviously not a good thing to do).

One hub cleaned:

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jpg  2006-05-29 22-53-24_0006.JPG (887.54 KB)
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Posted on: 2014/12/13 0:13
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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1. Parts with the shim pack ($34), luckily I used 2 different thickness's of shims or I'd would have had to buy another complete shim pack.

2. Bearings loaded on the set up tool (Timkin,U,S.A. BTW).

3. Measuring the end play. The book calls for 0.001 to 0.007 freeplay. For me 5, 6, and .007 are unacceptable. One came in at .003 and one at .0035.

Can't assemble the axles until the trailing arms are done including all the new emergency brake parts.

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jpg  2014-12-12 16-09-38_0002.JPG (701.80 KB)
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jpg  2014-12-12 16-23-42_0005.JPG (594.57 KB)
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Posted on: 2014/12/13 0:22
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pianoguy Re: Chassis Build
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Looks factory-fresh, Bill!
Posted on: 2014/12/13 2:06
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pianoguy Re: Chassis Build
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Posted on: 2014/12/13 4:17
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teebee Re: Chassis Build
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I'd heard those rear chassis were a PITA to setup.
Posted on: 2014/12/13 4:43
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TommyT-Bone Re: Chassis Build
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I'm glad the build will be slow and long. That way I can keep up with it.
Posted on: 2014/12/13 4:44
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

teebee wrote:
I'd heard those rear chassis were a PITA to setup.


The setup tool is worth way more than what it costs.

The first hub took 1/2 hour,

The second hub took 10 minutes.
Posted on: 2014/12/13 15:32
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Ultraman Re: Chassis Build
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Bill have you ever considered putting in a 30-30 cam and the double bump heads to give it more go power...? I would be tempted I think.....still look stock....what does the air cleaner look like for a 300 hp engine?
Posted on: 2014/12/14 18:22
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j3studio Re: Chassis Build
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Great thread - things are a lot further along than they were in May ...

Posted on: 2014/12/14 20:21
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
Bill have you ever considered putting in a 30-30 cam and the double bump heads to give it more go power...? I would be tempted I think.....still look stock....what does the air cleaner look like for a 300 hp engine?


Every "car guy" wants more horsepower in their street car, fine for them.

I was about 19 when I started thinking that it was a waste of money since if you use the power a lot, you probably won't have a license for long.
Spending thousands on a motor that you only romp on 5% of the time doesn't make sense to me.

If I'm going to spend money on a motor - it's going on a track.

I doubt that this engine will ever see redline, I mean, what's the point?

But that's just me.

Posted on: 2014/12/14 20:55
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pianoguy Re: Chassis Build
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Any drivability mods to make it more compatible with today's gas and oil?
Posted on: 2014/12/14 21:15
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

pianoguy wrote:
Any drivability mods to make it more compatible with today's gas and oil?


Nope, same oil as the Silverado, C4 and the race car - Mobil 1

Same gas as the C4 - 89
Posted on: 2014/12/14 21:49
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
....what does the air cleaner look like for a 300 hp engine?


It's large, black base, chrome top.

My top unfortunately has some marks on it and some rust pits on the bottom groove of the outer ring.

The silk screen inside is in decent shape.
I'll try some touchup.

This is the stuff that adds big bucks to the resto when you look at all the parts.

A repo cover is $81 for flash chrome (as original) and $128 for triple chrome.

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jpg  2014-12-14 14-40-40_0001.JPG (422.55 KB)
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jpg  2014-12-14 14-40-54_0002.JPG (589.34 KB)
881_548e07c862870.jpg 1600X1200 px
Posted on: 2014/12/14 21:57
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
Bill have you ever considered putting in a 30-30 cam and the double bump heads to give it more go power...? I would be tempted I think.....still look stock....what does the air cleaner look like for a 300 hp engine?


The only mods to this car will be the type of paint used, radial tires, probably wheels and alum valve covers that I have but the stock, orange covers will be restored.

IF I had bucks to build a modified C2 for the street/track, it could only ne a 63 GrandSport with a SRII chassis & C6 suspension.


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jpg  gs.jpg (293.15 KB)
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jpg  gs1.jpg (382.77 KB)
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png  gs2.png (110.67 KB)
881_548e0d17e9a3b.png 259X194 px
Posted on: 2014/12/14 22:20
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TommyT-Bone Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

pianoguy wrote:
Any drivability mods to make it more compatible with today's gas and oil?


That got me thinking. This motor was initially produced in the pre unleaded fuel days. I know that some use fuel additives for their original older motors to make up for deficiencies in the modern unleaded fuel. After the build is complete will you need fuel additives?
Posted on: 2014/12/14 22:26
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

TommyT-Bone wrote:
Quote:

pianoguy wrote:
Any drivability mods to make it more compatible with today's gas and oil?


That got me thinking. This motor was initially produced in the pre unleaded fuel days. I know that some use fuel additives for their original older motors to make up for deficiencies in the modern unleaded fuel. After the build is complete will you need fuel additives?


The tetraethyl lead cushioned the impact of the valves on the valve seats and that's about it.

Some guys run the additives, I probably won't because I don't plan on putting 100k miles on the car.

You can have hardened valve seats put in the heads but I won't until the stock seats are worn out.
Posted on: 2014/12/14 22:41
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Ultraman Re: Chassis Build
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The lead also lubbed up the valve guides if I recall....when I had the engine rebuilt on my 63 I believe we put in different guides.... That was a long time ago and now that I think about it we took it back to the stock 300 hp configuration since it was the original engine and tranny for the car. My air cleaner had two long snorkles on it and a chrome lid that was very pitted up. I still have the old lid, the lower half was saved and a repro lid with silk screen was bought.
Posted on: 2014/12/15 0:36
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Finished cleaning the rear end, getting it from rust to "as cast" was a pain in the ass.

Since the back lash was within spec and the posi worked, I'll only pop in new seals and C-clips.


Attach file:



jpg  2006-03-18 07-07-19_0001.JPG (875.49 KB)
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jpg  2014-12-21 13-05-33_0010.JPG (656.51 KB)
881_5497313d9d7af.jpg 1600X1200 px
Posted on: 2014/12/21 20:44
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Sure is nice working with the garage doors open today.

Got the part number stenciled on the frame along with the factory shim markings.

Got started on the brake lines but a bad, brass junction stopped the progress.

The repo lines have to have almost every bend corrected. Just the rear crossover took an hour to get right.

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jpg  2014-12-21 13-06-15_0011.JPG (511.63 KB)
881_5497327d911fc.jpg 1600X1200 px
Posted on: 2014/12/21 20:50
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Got the bushings installed in the trailing arms.

You can buy the tool for $80, I built my own in about a half hour. Worked fine but did actually bend the 3/8ths plate.

Once the 2 bushings are pressed in, they need to be compressed again, a center tube and flared like a brake line. Except the tube is .620 in diameter so, it really needs to be done in a press.

Also got the rear bearing hubs painted.

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jpg  2014-12-15 11-10-19_0001.JPG (682.05 KB)
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jpg  2014-12-15 11-27-09_0002.JPG (552.95 KB)
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jpg  2014-12-21 11-28-38_0006.JPG (472.11 KB)
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jpg  2014-12-21 13-02-32_0009.JPG (582.97 KB)
881_5497347b1f029.jpg 1600X1200 px
Posted on: 2014/12/21 20:58
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Ultraman Re: Chassis Build
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will the pumpkin get painted?
Posted on: 2014/12/21 21:04
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Ultraman Re: Chassis Build
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those look great Bill.......nice work!
Posted on: 2014/12/21 21:07
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
will the pumpkin get painted?


Wasn't from the factory, Ssssssshhhhhhhh, I'll cheat a little, I'ff fog on Eastwood's Diamond Clear Satin for Bare Metal.

I also have some Boe-Shield but haven't tried it yet.
Posted on: 2014/12/21 21:10
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pianoguy Re: Chassis Build
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Looks great - the goal line is getting closer!
Posted on: 2014/12/21 21:28
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rklessdriver Re: Chassis Build
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There is a paint automotive rebuilders use called "Cast Blast". Its mfgrd by Seymour. Works very well on restoring bare cast iron appearance and offering some protection. Just don't spray it too heavy.

The car is looking beautiful.
Will

Posted on: 2014/12/23 1:35
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

rklessdriver wrote:
There is a paint automotive rebuilders use called "Cast Blast". Its mfgrd by Seymour. Works very well on restoring bare cast iron appearance and offering some protection. Just don't spray it too heavy.

The car is looking beautiful.
Will



Thanks Wil.

Yea, I've had cast Blast in the shop for 20 years.

But, the NCRS judges can spot it easily.

Not that I'm going to have the car judged though.

Eastwood's Diamond Clear Satin is really hard to see, almost invisible.
Posted on: 2014/12/23 14:33
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BrianCunningham Re: Chassis Build
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stuff like that should be given a waiver, like seat belts
Posted on: 2014/12/23 17:10
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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There's no "waiver" on belts in NCRS judging.
Posted on: 2014/12/28 18:32
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Did some Cold black Oxide "Plating" today.

And, no it's not Parkerizing, but it's way easier to do and some gun guys use it.

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jpg  2014-12-28 12-54-21_0001.JPG (511.52 KB)
881_54a067fd478a8.jpg 1600X1200 px
Posted on: 2014/12/28 20:28
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Rear leaf spring:

Pay $149 for a replacement

OR $300+ for a factory correct one.

But then, they don't even come painted.

Tear it apart, go over every leaf with a 2 in. Scotchbrite on a die grinder and paint - 3 hours.


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jpg  2014-12-28 14-18-14_0004.JPG (590.44 KB)
881_54a07ffae0339.jpg 1600X1200 px
Posted on: 2014/12/28 22:11
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teebee Re: Chassis Build
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Pretty methodical and meticulous, Bill. Looking good!
Posted on: 2014/12/29 0:50
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Ultraman Re: Chassis Build
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I'm confused again....is that a new spring or your old one u r rebuilding..... Just wondering....
Posted on: 2014/12/29 3:12
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joeld Re: Chassis Build
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Lawrenceville Ga
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What about the rubber strips between each leaf? Replace or re-use?


Joel
Posted on: 2014/12/29 4:33
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Reno
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
I'm confused again........


Yea, well.

It's new, rebuilding (re-arching) leaf springs doesn't last all that long, they'll sag back to where they were in a year.

It's a new reproduction made by Eaton. Correct C2 springs have a 1/8th of the ends of the leaves bent up and the ends of the longest leaf clipped with 2, 45 degree angles. Replacement springs don't have this.

It's been laying on the carpet downstairs and already shows some surface rust. It will take an hour or so to Scotchbrite using an air tool. Then Self-etching primer and the correct light fray spring paint.

Joel, the liners are new but you can get them separately if you want to rebuild. The kit for a 9 leaf is $49 though.

Cold front coming thru so, I won't be able to shoot paint until Friday. I think I can find other parts to play with though.

Posted on: 2014/12/29 15:09
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Ended up shooting the spring in the paint booth.


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Posted on: 2014/12/30 23:31
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Ultraman Re: Chassis Build
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On my 63 the rear spring was shot so I bought a replacement and when we put it in the car was way too high in back....I can't remember what we did to solve that....hmmmm....but the curve was wrong or something.....just saying......seeing you working on these parts brings back memories.....
Posted on: 2014/12/30 23:43
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Quote:

Ultraman wrote:
On my 63 the rear spring was shot so I bought a replacement and when we put it in the car was way too high in back....I can't remember what we did to solve that....hmmmm....but the curve was wrong or something.....just saying......seeing you working on these parts brings back memories.....


Prolly put in longer bolts.

All I can do is wait and see what the new leaf and front coils do.

Note: Something you probably didn't do and I didn't know about until about 15 years ago, the leaf spring mounting bolts must be torqued with the weight of the car on the spring. It's possible to crack the mounting flange on the rear end if you don't. Applies to C3's too.
Posted on: 2014/12/31 0:59
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Went to assemble the trailing arms, somehow I'm missing the parking brake shoe retainer, blew an hour looking for the box with the old shoes and parts. All these new parts are stainless.

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Posted on: 2015/1/14 1:31
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BillH Re: Chassis Build
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Got the front spindles done and got the rear end and crossmember in crossmsmber has new sombreros in it.


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Posted on: 2015/1/14 1:33
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