bogus wrote:
oh... no need to remove the pedal itself... but it is a bitch to get down there.

Some pointers:

1. Remove the drivers seat. It will give you a ton more room to work.

2. Remove the carpeted knee pad under the dash. It will get you access to the pedal area.

3. Light... you need light down there, it's very dark and more you can see, the better off you will be.

4. Once you see what's down there, the fix will be obvious.

The master cylinder should have all parts needed already attached to it. What year again? 1987 sticks in my head.

And I was right... I checked Rockauto.com, all of the master cylinders for C4's are preassembled with a shaft, an eyelet end, where the shaft attaches to the pedal. That is more then likely held in place by a big c-clip thing. It might be a bitch to remove, just warning ya, and a bigger bitch to put back in!

The clutch hydraulics on these cars is a pain in the ass on a good day... If they are OEM original, I would replace all parts - master, line and slave, with all new. Then bleed it... bleed it good... They can be tricky to bleed, to say the least. It will take two people.

Rockauto lists a SACHS master for about $100.00. It's more expensive, but it's a good part, more then likely made in Western Europe, vs some unknown place in slave labour Asia... The SACHS slave is about $50.00.

Check with Jim at www.powertorquesystems.com for these parts, too. They specialize in Corvette clutch components. Mostly for the ZF6, but he more then likely has a good recommendation for 4+3 parts.

captmike13 wrote:
When you order a new master cylinder it should come with a bushing for the pin to master cylinder rod. Mine fit without one but it seems there are two different sizes for the pedal pin.